Mandalorian Mercs Costume Club

Mandalorian Armor => Female Armor => Female Vests/Flightsuits/Soft Parts => Topic started by: spartafett on Jan 07, 2016, 03:57 PM

Title: spartafett's Soft Parts WIP
Post by: spartafett on Jan 07, 2016, 03:57 PM
It occurred to me that there are actually a lot of soft parts on my kit so I thought I'd better set up a separate thread for those. I'm not great at taking step by step pictures of my progress but I'll try to be good about getting the key points.
Here's my other WIP thread, where my concept drawing is: http://mandalorianmercs.org/forum/index.php?topic=105271.0


Here's a list of all my main parts:
-flightsuit
-vest
-leather skirt
-belts
-leather strap (across torso)
-linen waist scarf
-leg wraps
-arm wraps
-neck scarf
-cape
-leather base for gauntlets

My vest and flight suit are done. They were a fairly simple pattern (princess seams, nicely fitted). I made minor adjustments to get it to fit how I wanted--I didn't want things to be too tight, wanted to feel like I could actually fight in these clothes. I used the same pattern for the top and vest.

I also just finished up with the scarf (which I made the mistake of wringing out after I dyed and rinsed it. The blasted thing was so wrinkly, it took me about twenty minutes to iron out enough that it was presentable again). I went a little smaller than my drawing for two reasons: I live in Arizona and having that much fabric wrapped around my neck just seemed unnecessarily hot, and all that fabric looked like it was trying to swallow me.
(http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y350/Alexandra_Wincek/Mandalorian/32825CEB-30DB-4A2D-9455-01D649844AE2_zps7j6jr5nz.jpg)

The vest was dressed up with just some simple top stitching. It's deceptively easy actually, and makes stuff look really nice and finished. Just take your time with it and find something on the sewing machine or the presser foot to line up to and it getting good parallel lines goes pretty smoothly.

I'm working on my leg wraps now--here's the right leg. First I made a duct tape cast of my leg and used that to roughly draft my spat pattern, made from some leftover cotton.
(http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y350/Alexandra_Wincek/Mandalorian/E4F180FB-CE8C-4E2E-9CCC-327E342376BA_zpsobw28uai.jpg)
I pinned the finished spat to the duct tape leg and started wrapping strips of my linen overtop till it was completely covered. Some strips were about 5" wide, folded over in some spots, and some were only about 1 1/2".
(http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y350/Alexandra_Wincek/Mandalorian/1F5917F9-ABF1-40FA-A22D-F65C7AA6CF02_zpsjbwfldff.jpg)

(http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y350/Alexandra_Wincek/Mandalorian/E19B25F8-92DD-4FFF-B6AC-4CFB347E7980_zpsfw6mx9rr.jpg)
(http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y350/Alexandra_Wincek/Mandalorian/A4941578-ECD2-4048-9C6B-D7712B07744A_zpsrmn6gntn.jpg)(http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y350/Alexandra_Wincek/Mandalorian/5D56D208-1E7E-4C54-AD56-DD563C26AC76_zpsbtn8ovoy.jpg)(http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y350/Alexandra_Wincek/Mandalorian/8985397C-5363-4363-9E0B-397EF2A57D7F_zpsvzuazcfk.jpg)
(http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y350/Alexandra_Wincek/Mandalorian/4E3E4B38-957D-4B12-B647-5605132D594A_zpsmu6vddiv.jpg)

The inner side of the leg is open and will close up with snaps or something. Extra pieces of linen wrap around to conceal the side seam. They're just pinned in place for now. Hopefully I can get them stitched permanently in a few days here, and I'll get some of those stray threads trimmed. I've got a little stirrup to go under my boot to help keep the piece from moving around much as well.

My boots are just a pair I had around, but will they work until I find another pair? Ideally I'd like something a little flatter but I didn't think the heel was too crazy or anything on these.
Title: Re: spartafett's Soft Parts WIP
Post by: Nishi Ja'tejag on Jan 07, 2016, 04:14 PM
You are clearly an accomplished seamstress/stitcher. I really like how well you are translating from your concept art to the finished product, and your technique for the leg wraps is brilliant.

I'm with you on Arizona heat. That's something that I'm trying to include in my design and construction considerations as well. I even intend to have a hidden camelback for parades.
Title: Re: spartafett's Soft Parts WIP
Post by: spartafett on Jan 07, 2016, 06:15 PM
You are clearly an accomplished seamstress/stitcher. I really like how well you are translating from your concept art to the finished product, and your technique for the leg wraps is brilliant.

I'm with you on Arizona heat. That's something that I'm trying to include in my design and construction considerations as well. I even intend to have a hidden camelback for parades.

Thank you!

You really can't win in Arizona, can you? When I first started I had a heavy suiting material for my flightsuit. I wore it for just a few minutes and realized it was stifling, so I was excited when I came across these nice linens. A little itchy, but they definitely breathe better! I'm probably going to hate the leather vest come summer! A camelback is a great idea. I haven't really thought about that so I might have to consider how to make that work

.
Title: Re: spartafett's Soft Parts WIP
Post by: Mav runi on Jan 07, 2016, 09:24 PM
I know, having the layers can suck in AZ but sometimes you just do what you need to do. That said, i'm a crazy one and wear other clothes under my flgihtsuit so i don't sweat directly on it.

what you have so far looks GREAT!
Title: Re: spartafett's Soft Parts WIP
Post by: Myra Tiin on Jan 08, 2016, 04:29 AM
Here's some talent !
Your soft parts look amazing, you're starting with a really good base for your kit :)

Quick question, What did you drew its pattern yourself, or used something already existing ? (I'm looking forward to sew myself a new one, but as a noob in that domain, any information would be really useful :x  )
Title: Re: spartafett's Soft Parts WIP
Post by: Kris Jasra on Jan 08, 2016, 06:03 AM
Oooooh, nice. Liking the fabric choices you've got going there, very natural.

I'm probably going to hate the leather vest come summer!

Strangely enough, I've trooped in 85F (UK doesn't really get hotter than that) but while parts of me have slowly cooked my torso under my leather vest has stayed cool. My plates being metal have been literally burning hot, but the vest reflects the heat like nothing else and I can't even feel them from the inside. And in winter when it gets to 20F (that was horribly cold troop) it acts as beautiful insulation and keeps me warm. Leather vest = best idea I ever had.
Title: Re: spartafett's Soft Parts WIP
Post by: Myra Tiin on Jan 08, 2016, 01:45 PM
Agreed with Kris :D

I have an artificial leather vest, and since it's mostly made out of plastic, it's doesn't really keep me warm during winter, and during summer, I get sweaty and the thing just doesn't breathe :o So, Leather > Pleather ! (and it looks better as well !)
Title: Re: spartafett's Soft Parts WIP
Post by: spartafett on Jan 08, 2016, 02:50 PM
Here's some talent !
Your soft parts look amazing, you're starting with a really good base for your kit :)

Quick question, What did you drew its pattern yourself, or used something already existing ? (I'm looking forward to sew myself a new one, but as a noob in that domain, any information would be really useful :x  )

Thank you! I used a pattern. I think it was a simplicity pattern, maybe? I made a mockup out of old fabric first, so I was making mistakes and alterations to that one instead of to my good expensive fabric. :) I'm not good at drafting patterns from nothing, but altering patterns isn't too bad. I don't know if you have the same things available overseas, but generally I prefer simplicity and mccalls. Simplicity's patterns are a little nicer I think, but mccalls the instructions are easier to follow.

Also, try things on inside out too. Then you can just pin the seams where they need taken in and go straight to the machine. Makes it a little easier.

Pick your fabric carefully too. I don't like anything that's too heavy or stiff, but you don't want something really thin. I started with a thin suede, but after I put it together it looked more like a t shirt.

Oooooh, nice. Liking the fabric choices you've got going there, very natural.

Strangely enough, I've trooped in 85F (UK doesn't really get hotter than that) but while parts of me have slowly cooked my torso under my leather vest has stayed cool. My plates being metal have been literally burning hot, but the vest reflects the heat like nothing else and I can't even feel them from the inside. And in winter when it gets to 20F (that was horribly cold troop) it acts as beautiful insulation and keeps me warm. Leather vest = best idea I ever had.

That's very encouraging! By the way, I love your kit. Very tough.
Title: Re: spartafett's Soft Parts WIP
Post by: Nishi Ja'tejag on Jan 08, 2016, 02:52 PM
wear other clothes under my flgihtsuit so i don't sweat directly on it.

That's actually a good idea.
Title: Re: spartafett's Soft Parts WIP
Post by: Kavryn Falco on Jan 09, 2016, 12:17 PM
Yeah, a set of underarmor headgear will actually help regulate your body temperature in the heat very well ;D

Those spats are looking lovely, and those boots should be fine. Typically a low heel/flat boot is ideal, but a higher heel can work if it's a wedge or chunky, like yours is.  Just make sure they're comfortable - after 8+ hours in kit, if your boots don't fit right you'll regret it :P
Title: Re: spartafett's Soft Parts WIP
Post by: spartafett on Jan 14, 2016, 02:10 PM
Just a small update. I got my leg wraps finished, besides a couple on tiny little nitpicks I have.

(http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y350/Alexandra_Wincek/Mandalorian/40895815-82F3-4F23-9BD7-980E1BEADEB6_zps4zpusgui.jpg)
(http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y350/Alexandra_Wincek/Mandalorian/3DAAC3F2-934E-4FA1-8E9E-5C86A21EF6A8_zpsf2cebwuu.jpg)

Not sure what the deal with my pants is. They're bunching up an awful lot on the knees...I'll work it out.

I'll have to look into the heatgear thing. That's probably a worthwhile investment here.
Title: Re: spartafett's Soft Parts WIP
Post by: Nishi Ja'tejag on Jan 14, 2016, 04:15 PM
It looks to me like the leg wraps are causing the pants to bunch up. You might consider taking some of the bagginess out of the pants by creating slightly tighter through the thighs. Another possibility is to cut the lower portion off the pant leg and replacing with stretchy tights with feet. That will provide some downward pull on the pants, and take out much of the excess fabric under the leggings.

I cannot find the closures/seams in your leg wraps at all. Brilliant!
Title: Re: spartafett's Soft Parts WIP
Post by: 3mandos on Jan 17, 2016, 06:53 PM
So awesome
Title: Re: spartafett's Soft Parts WIP
Post by: girrox211 on Jan 15, 2017, 09:34 AM
I'm in love with those leg wraps. They look so good. I love that the cape so far is wrinkled cause it gives it a more worn and torn look too it.
Title: Re: spartafett's Soft Parts WIP
Post by: Aria on Jan 16, 2017, 02:53 AM
Everything looks fantastic so far!  :)

My only concern is your boots. Are those the ones you plan to wear with your kit?
While we allow wedge, platform and chunky heels, I'm not quite sure those are chunky enough to meet the requirements. They look great with the wraps, but you may want to consider changing them for comfort also. We can easily wear our boots for up to 8 hours a day while trooping, and any sort of heels get uncomfortable after that long.
Title: Re: spartafett's Soft Parts WIP
Post by: Kryamla Redalur on Jan 25, 2017, 03:49 PM
I agree with aria - I don't think they would be comfortable for a very long period of time. I would recommend a lower pair or boots similar to sabine's chunky heel.