Mando Mercs Costume Club
Mandalorian Armor => Helmets => Topic started by: Hondo Karr on Aug 01, 2010, 12:03 AM
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First up, size comparison...
1 Rubies 2 piece Jango
2 Don Post 95
3 Hasbro BF
4 Saz Krayt Dragon (1:1)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2792.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2793.jpg)
This is actually a quite large helmet and the intent of the mod will be to retain as much of that as possible. This helmet falls right in between the DP95/96 and the 1:1. It could work for folks who need either of those helmets.
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Here is the assembled helmet out of the box...
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/solo.jpg)
Here it is disassembled as it comes packaged...
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2794.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2795.jpg)
Here is the plan (funky colored area's will be rebuilt)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/solomod.jpg)
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Here it is disassembled and cut apart...
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2796.jpg)
After removing all the interrior screws, i found that to minimize disassembly, retain the electronics etc., I would use the dremel to cut along these bright greens lines...
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2795-1.jpg)
This represents about 30 mins of removing screws and cutting.
total time to this point, including "play time" about 40 mins. Total cost $35.00 (cost of helmet)
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quickly thrown back together with the face taped back on to show concept...
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2797.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2798.jpg)
Now, this is not yet glued. There is still some clean up on the interior (screw holes etc) to be removed and smoothed.
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Alrighty, here it is with the interior glassed....
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2799.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2800.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2801.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2802.jpg)
Basically I used teh resin an dthe fiber matte along the interior center seam. However, on the dome seam and the seam where the back meets the earcap, I didn't use the fiber matte, only the resin. There will be some minor clean up on the interior job as the resin dripped or ran more than anticipated. It's a little "cooler" today and much more humid which slowed the resin curing.
I actually like the venting on teh back of the helmet where the back meets the earcaps. That influenced not using teh fiber matte on those seams as Im going to try and preserve that. The interior will be covered with a double layer of screen mesh to help block the ability to see in but still allow airflow.
So, today's journey...
About 15 minutes to set up, glass and clean up. Putting the time total at 1 hour.
Cost, I actually had the resin and matte on hand so it cost me nothing. However, if you had to go and buy the stuff, the resin is about $8.00 and the matte another $5.00. I use cheap plastic bowls and plastic silver ware I get at the dollar store to mix it in and cheap foam brushes that come in a large pack for 2.00 from Walmart. So, assuming you had to buy all of that, the investment would be...17.00 combined with the 35.00 helmet puts it at 52.00 invested total at this point.
So...
Time to date: 1 hour
Cost to date:
Estimated: $52.00
Actual: $35.00
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Next step...
I reapplied the face of the helmet and used "For sale" signs to add 1 1/4" shims to get it back to the proper length. I also used the same "For Sale" sign to build the cheeks. At this point, everything is loosely held in place with hot glue.
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2825.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2826.jpg)
Time: 30 mins
Cost: 1.00 (for "For Sale" sign)
Total time: 1 hr 30mn
Total cost:
Actual: 36.00
Estimated: 53.00
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The added length on the face exterior was covered with 2 part plumbing epoxy. I prefer this as it has a clay or putty like consistency, until it sets then it's hard as a rock, so when applied it can be sculpted to shape without it oozing out of shape. I had this epoxy on hand from a variety of projects however, to buy a new tube it's about 4.00
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2828.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2829.jpg)
Final step
before fiberglassing the interior of the rebuilt face of the helmet was to cover the exposed electronics fron where the face was removed. I used scrap from teh same piece of "For Sale" sign I used to rebuild the face of the helmet so there is no added cost. Again, held in place with hot glue.
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2831.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2830.jpg)
Time: 15 mins
Cost: 0.00
Total Time: 1hr 45min
Total Cost:
Actual: 36.00
Estimated: 53.00
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On to the next...
Helmet rough sanded, just a little cleaned up, for Bondo application. Anchor holes drilled into the dent. For those unaware, the anchor holes allow a small ammount of Bondo to seap through where it can be smoothed on the interior. This allows an anchor for the Bondo glob that helps prevent it from popping out.
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2832.jpg)
Time: 15 min
Cost: 0.00
Next, Bondo is applied along all the major seams to be filled. Again, with this build I am leaving the vents in the back of the helmet open for airflow and I am keeping the electronics functional so you may still see the buttons on the earcap. Don't worry, that will be addressed when the time comes.
I had the Bondo on hand so again, no cost out of pocket for this project. However, if you don't have Bondo on hand and have to get it, it's about 8.00 for the small can.
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2833.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2834.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2835.jpg)
Time: 15min
Cost: 0.00
Estimated: 8.00
Total to date...
Time: 2hr 15min
Cost:
Actual: 36.00
Estimated: 61.00
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Bondo sanded...
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2839.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2840.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2841.jpg)
Time: 40mins
Cost: 0.00
Total
Time: 2hrs 55min
Cost:
Actual: 36.00
Estimated: 61.00
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Glazing Putty applied and sanded. this took 2 cracks at it to get it smooth enough for the next step. For those unfamiliar with Glazing Putty, it is a product made by Bondo that you do not mix. It air drives. Where as Bondo is a large area filler, Glazing Putty is for back filling shallow small imperfections. If you try to put it on too heavy it will crack and fall out. Now, I have a coiuple of tubes on Glazing Putty on hand. So again, no additional expense to me for the build. However, if you have to purchase it, it's about 4.00 a tube.
Glazing Putty applied:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2843.jpg)
Sanded off:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2865.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2866.jpg)
Time: 15mins
Cost:
Actual: 0.00
Estimated: 4.00
Total
Time: 3hrs. 10mins
Cost:
actual: 36.00
Estimated: 65.00
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First primer coat applied. I used a Rustoleum 2X gray primer which I had to buy 4.00. This is not the prepaint primer coat. This coat was applied to identify imperfections that need addressing before moving on to the finishing of the helmet. I identified a few area's on the injection molded plastic that will need some clean up due to the sanding. I also identified a couple area's on the left cheek that need a bit more Glazing Putty. This will be wetsanded, reprimed and reevaluated. I estomate it will take two attempts at priming a wetsanding to get it to the finishing point.
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2867.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2868.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2869.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2870.jpg)
Time: 5mins
Cost: 4.00
Total:
Time: 3hrs. 15mins
Cost:
Actual 40.00
Estimated: 69.00
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2 coats of primer were applied, along with 1 touch up with the glazing putty and sanded. Helmet is now about as smooth as I can get it.
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2871.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2872.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2873.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2874.jpg)
Time: 30mins
Cost: 0.00
Total:
Times: 3hrs. 45mins
Cost:
Actual: 40.00
Estimated: 69.00
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Time to paint! This is where, if you followed my painting and weathering method, it could get expensive. Most of the paints I had on hand, some I bought. So, we'll just estimate the cost of paint at $15.00, assuming you dont buy the 1.12 cans of WalMart brand paint) and splurge on decent stuff. Obviously the time to paint and weather and how you do it is dictated by your preferred methods and paints. However, since this is MY tutorial ( ;D ) I will show my method. Essentially, layer after layer of paint is applied without any masking agents. Once the paint apps are complete, I weather it using 150-180 grit sand paper followed by a 400 grit wetsand.
This is all of the "under coats" for the weathering effects...
Silver:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2913.jpg)
Copper:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2914.jpg)
Rust Brown:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2915.jpg)
Red:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2916.jpg)
Black:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2917.jpg)
Yellow:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2918.jpg)
Hunter Green:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2919.jpg)
Next, the helmet is wet sanded with 400 grit paper to remove any build ups etc during the painting process. This is done to prep for the finish coats.
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2920.jpg)
Time: 30mins (not counting dry time)
Cost: 15.00
Totals:
Time: 4hrs. 15mins.
Cost:
Actual: 55.00
Estimated: 84.00
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Paint apps on. The cost of paint in the last post includes the entire painting process so, no additional cost. I didn't take pix of each diffent color added or the masking process as I'm sur emost are familiar with it. Here is the end result of the paint... I went with an 80's Marvel/Fenn Shysa Mandalorian Protector look... Sage green, burgandy, blue and white....
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2921.jpg)
Time: 1hr
Cost: 0.00
Totals:
Time: 5hrs 15mins
Cost:
Actual: 55.00
Estimated: 84.00
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Weathering... consists of attacking it with 150 grit sandpaper on a hand sander followed by 400 grit wetsand. I also added the earcap. I didn't show t he mod on the right earcap/RF but it really wasn't a big deal, a little 2 part epoxy putty in the 2 screw holes and a light sanding, primer paint silver...
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2930.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2931.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2932.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2933.jpg)
Time: 30min
Cost: 0.00
Totals:
Time: 5hrs. 45mins
Cost:
Actual: 55.00
Estimated: 84.00
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Covering the buttons on the earcaps... I used model glue to glue an extra piece of For Sale sign, left over from the original piece, over the buttons. This hides them and allows them to be pressable.
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2938.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2939.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2940.jpg)
Time: 10mins
Cost: 0.00
Totals:
Time: 5hrs 55mins
Cost:
Actual: 55.00
Estimated: 84.00
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Carbone scoring time.... quite simply, I paint the entire bucket with Apple Barrel flat black acryllic paint and allow it to dry, then I wetsand and sink sponge the excess off. I had the paint onhand so, no additional cost to me however, to but it, it's about 2.00 a bottle.
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2937.jpg)
Cleaned up...
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2941.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2942.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2943.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_2944.jpg)
Time: 15mins
Cost: 0.00
estimated: 2.00
Totals:
Time:6hrs. 10mins
Cost:
Actual: 55.00
Estimated: 86.00
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Visor installation time!
#5 Dark green welding visor. I made a paper template and taped it to the shield, then traced it with a crayon.
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_3026.jpg)
Cut out with scissors and ready to be hot glued into the helmet.
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_3027.jpg)
Time: 10min
Cost: 9.00 (visor)
Totals:
Time: 6hrs 20mins
Cost:
Actual: 64.00
Estimated: 95.00
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Here is the finished product!
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_3035.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_3033.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_3032.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/101_3031.jpg)
Some minor details... I added an old circuit board from a remote control to the keyslots. It too about 10 mins worth of work and cost nothing. I also covered the interior of the vents with some extra window screen mesh. Again, I had it around ti cost nothing and took about 5 mins to do.
Completed helmet vs. stock
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/PJR_76/Armor/solo-1.jpg)
So, the end result is a TROOPABLE/APPROVABLE helmet for the club.
Now, this will not be the "helmet for everyone". But, it is a viable alternative for a 1:1 scale helmet for member to use. Using my method, the estimated time is just under 7 hours of labor, not counting drying times. The estimated cost COULD run as high as 96.00 if you have none o fthe materials needed on hand. The cost drops dramatically with each of the materials you already have. Also, the time and cost include full paint apps and visor install. The only thing the helmet needs to be used is interior padding matched to the wearer.
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Fantastic tutorial, and excellent work turning that toy into a real buy'ce ;). Now, let's see how many people post "Can I use the Hasbro BF helmet?" without even looking at this thread.
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with the elongated cheeks like that, it almost has a deathwatchy type look to it.
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Now seeing the side by sides this thing will be way to big for my verd'ika for his approval kit. May have to try this for my V2.0 though.
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Meh. Still not a fan, but at least it looks better than out of the box.
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Minus earcaps, that is almost dead-on for an animated-style Mando bucket. I see a lot of things I'd do differently to make it more Boba-accurate, but I know I'm one of the few sticklers on here about such things. ;) I'll do my own thread about that rather than cluttering up this one.
A'den, you did a bang-up job on that thing. :)
--Jonah
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Hmm... ya know, not bad at all. Might use this for a future build. There's a set I designed years ago that would be perfect for this.
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Thanks guys n gals. It was a fun build and gave me something to do in my downtime.
STG: Yeah it does have a bit of that feeling to it. It wasn't intentional it was just a by product of raising the face.
No'saj: Yes, it is a BIG helmet very large. as Ive been saying, it's a 1:1 scale. Hasbro makes the helmet and alot of the features very large intentionally for children to play with. Safety features and such.
Pere: Accurate Boba wasn't the goal. Accurate to a Mandalorian was. Boba is awesome and I love his look far and above beyond others. However, the Boba Fett helmet had so many flaws I would want to reproduce them intentionally. While they worked at the time and for teh character, they were intentionally cleaned up for the Jango helmet. The concept here was to make a general mando helmety, not an accurate Boba helmet.
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Very beautiful work Aden, I am definitely impressed. Quick question, between the stock photo and finished product, it looks like the finished helmet isnt as wide as the stock helmet, is this true?
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No, they are the same. The photo's were resized differently. The only measurements changed were on the visor. The length of the face wide, height depth are all unchanged.
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Oh coolness, although that makes me wonder that if everything but the visor area changed then why cut and reconstruct the entire front?
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The cheeks are stupidly small and the visor ridiculously wide. So, I removed the entire face, narrowed the visor and elongated the cheeks to make it look more balanced. My OPINION ONLY, I think just narrowing the visor without extending the face to the proper length isn't enough to mod the helnmet to make it no longer look toy. However, any different future mods will be evaluated by the Council for approval and my opinion could certainly be out voted.
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Ahhh ok well that makes sense. Until I actually mod my own I cant really say any differently but I am thinking of a few ways to narrow the visor area without removing the entire face and maybe adding large "breating tubes" to the cheek areas so that it takes away from the toy look. But I will say I respect your opinion A'den and your build and tutorial, especially since if my idea doesnt pan out its not like I cant remove the face still and do it the way you showed.
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Well, I certainly look forward to seeing other mod options that will look different, be done different, perhaps tak eless time or /and cost less than mine. Variety is the spice of this club. The key though is the end result must be immediatly recognizable as Modern Era Mando and not Hasbro toy.
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The helmet looks good, A'den.
Looking at the work you did, This would be the only acceptible mod in my eyes. It does look very TCW, though. I would label this "For experienced costumers/propbuilders only" though.
I really doubt that your average green costumer would be able to tackle this with much success.
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i think if they followed his steps closely they could succeed .......my " method" will not involve disassembling the entire face , but kinda re-working and adding to whats already there..... once done i may share the build as you have , as long as it dosent turn into a fiasco , or casue too much grief.
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Great job A'den , you did make a silk purse from a sow's ear , not for me though , im not far off with money for a Saz bucket , my HBF is staying as is and in the collection , thanks for showing it can be done , The council should set that as the benchmark or as near as .
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Looks pretty good at the end, A'den. The paint and weathering's a bit 'off' but that's just personal taste.
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Looks amazing vod! I'm definitely going to follow this for my fiancee's helmet! Any chance you scanned the pattern you used for the visor...? :rolleyes:
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Spanner: I agree on teh mod issue. As for the level of difficulty, I think it's still easier than scratchbuilding the whole bucket and using the tutorial step x step would certainly help.
Kel: Thanks
Ori: It's not meant to be Boba, just a generic Protector, loosely based on Fenn Shysa an dthe old Marvel comics color concepts.
Dragon: Not, I'm sorry I didn't scan or keep the template as using the process, people COULD end up with slightly different dimensions.
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Very nice indeed! Kandosii, ner vod!
This makes me want to try it for myself when I have the extra funds to do it. But then again, I may stick to what I've already got. Still, great job on the mod! At least we now know it's possible.
David.
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The raffle is up...
http://mandalorianmercs.org/forum/index.php?topic=28679.0
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Pere: Accurate Boba wasn't the goal. Accurate to a Mandalorian was. Boba is awesome and I love his look far and above beyond others. However, the Boba Fett helmet had so many flaws I would want to reproduce them intentionally. While they worked at the time and for teh character, they were intentionally cleaned up for the Jango helmet. The concept here was to make a general mando helmety, not an accurate Boba helmet.
I'm not talking about reproducing the flaws in the original Boba helmet. I mean the vertical par tof the T needs to be wider, about a centimeter (ish, would need to measure) needs to be taken off the top of the back skirt, the dome is backwards... Armed with all the measure ments of the original (that I tweaked to make symmetrical for my templates) I'd be looking at making sure I had everything where it was supposed to be.
And yes, I know I'm in the minority with this opinion, but, for me, since all the contemporary-era Mandos we've seen in the films, cartoons and EU (allowing for differences due to animation stylization) -- except for the distinctive Death Watch helmet -- have all been the Boba helmet (or artists' interpretations of, or slight resizing and symmetricalization of, etc.). So I consider that the foundation from which to deviate... or not.
I know you weren't trying to make a dead-on Boba bucket. I was saying I see that, but I think I can. I won't tell you to make your mod be Boba-accurate (for a given value of accurate) if you don't tell me not to. ;)
--Jonah
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Hmm... I might try this as a base for my future project. I do like, as STG said, the death watchy look to it. But of course of one of the rare few that like the death watch :P. What can I say I like the bad guys. Anyway definitely following this tut if I try it out thanks A'den!
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As I mentioned to you previously, A'd'ika... Awesome job, really.
You made the thing 'troopable'. Great! Congrats, vod.
And thank you for sharing the whole process. :)
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I have to say, I love the way you addressed the one point that was my main concern, even more than the oversized visor, the undersized cheek area. Cutting off the entire face, moving it up, and then building it down was brilliant. You really turned an abomination into a clean sharp bucket.
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I just have to say again, I am amazed at how well you made this build come out! And you made it look so easy too! (For experienced craftsman, of course.)
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And you made it look so easy too! (For experienced craftsman, of course.)
The defense rests. ;)
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Ive got to say one thing in the Hasbro BFetts defence , it is a toy for kids and it gives Mandalorians more exposure , i.e. people not familiar with Mandalorians and the Fett's will now probably i.d. us , rather than saying " Oh there goes a Power Ranger !" ;)
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I am currently using this tutorial for the helmet I bought.
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I am currently using this tutorial for the helmet I bought.
Will you create a WIP thread?
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Will you create a WIP thread?
No. A'den pretty much covers the build.
A'den, What adhesives did you use? Or better yet, what adhesives failed?
I see you use fiberglass resin and also model glue. I am just wondering with this plastic being so soft & almost that "oily" feel, that some glues are not going to stick.
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Well, having done a few other Hasbro mods... (CT bucket) and 2 piece Jango's, Ive learned that PVC glue doesnt work so hot and hot glue sucks for holding seams.
When I put it all together, I just used the firberglass resin and let it seap through the cracks. Helped with the filling in and gave a stronger bond/hold. I used hot glue to piece the for sale signs in place until they were fiberglassed in place and model glue was used only to adhere the for sale sign to the earcap.
Hope that helps.
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mark ....plastic welder has worked well for me so far , but be advised , plastic welder isnt cheap , and its taken like 4 tubes so far...did some with 2 part epoxy and that held also
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I want to use the Duramix system, but it is costly. $80 for the gun, adhesion promoter is about $15 a can, and the actual Duramix is around $30 a tube. I would use at least a tube on one bucket.
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Looking from the front, The left cheek (right when worn) is longer than the right by about 1/16" roughly, and on side's mandible is wider at the bottom than the other. It could've been the angle, but that's what my eyes saw. I get David (Jaiden) on this all the time! ;D
I'd double-check the measurements. . . ;)
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im not sure if it is longer, but i think the cheek is just bent out slightly, it looks like it sits forward just a tad more than the other cheek, and so looks alittle longer, i may be wrong, but it looks that way in previous pictures.
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Trust the Squirrel. If he says it's longer - even 1/16th of an inch, trust me - it's longer. He caught me on quite a few measurements on a project I was doing and he was right. (Darn him! ;))
David.
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hey how much would it cost me if i was to send it one to you and get you to do it i have been know to mess stuff like that up and i dont have all the tools
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I'd say by the time you've factored in the cost of the helmet, plus materials to alter the helmet and paying someone for their time to modify it, you'd be much better off just buying a quality resin helmet from one of our makers here.
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Yup, Raltho's right. If you can't do it on your own following the tutorial, I would suggest just buyinga cast helmet.
Honestly, for teh hours of work involved etc. i would charge at least 300.00 , which is the low end going rate for a finished helmet, for this one if I were to sell it. Instead, Im donating it for a raffle. If your interested check out the raffle thread in teh trading station.
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Trust the Squirrel. If he says it's longer - even 1/16th of an inch, trust me - it's longer. He caught me on quite a few measurements on a project I was doing and he was right. (Darn him! ;))
David.
I do have an eye for it. . . 8)
Seriously though, I just like symmetry. ;) ;D
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Honestly? If 1/16th" on a helmet visor bugs you... You may be too picky. I'd say 85% of people and up can't even see that difference with the naked eye.
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Honestly? If 1/16th" on a helmet visor bugs you... You may be too picky. I'd say 85% of people and up can't even see that difference with the naked eye.
Maybe I am, but I still notice. :-X
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I absolutely love it A'den
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Thanks jamie~
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You notice now but when the helmet is worn and the person is moving around plus you most likely won't see it at a straight on angle in real life. As I've said before it doesn't really matter that much. Only stand still props are where we get to examine them enough to actually see the extremely slight inaccuracies. Anyway back on topic on how awesome this is! lol.
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That is a seriously awsome helmet A'den! Well done!
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One tip I can add...Leave the bridge piece connected to the cheaks. That will give you the correct spacing while making all the alterations. After everything is in place, you can then remove that bridge and do your painting & visor installation.
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Awesome job A'den! Was just talking a few weeks back about if these were gonna be useable or not. Glad to see, with some work, you can make something out of it!
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Very, very cool!! Good job!!
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???Like the first photo of all the helmets lined up, is there another photograph, same situation but with the mod lined up too??
I am sorry if I missed this earlier in the topic.
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???Like the first photo of all the helmets lined up, is there another photograph, same situation but with the mod lined up too??
I am sorry if I missed this earlier in the topic.
No, there's no similar pic with the completed helmet as the overall dimensions of the helmet weren't changed, just the shape of the face. So the end result is still the same sized helmet.
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No, there's no similar pic with the completed helmet as the overall dimensions of the helmet weren't changed, just the shape of the face. So the end result is still the same sized helmet.
ok, thank you very much :)
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Incredible,A'den! ;D :o ;D :o
Great work. ;)
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would it be ok to keep it with the big viser
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would it be ok to keep it with the big viser
For club use, no.
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Honestly? If 1/16th" on a helmet visor bugs you... You may be too picky. I'd say 85% of people and up can't even see that difference with the naked eye.
I've replaced Fett parts for much smaller than 1/16" issues :)
I recently upgrade gauntlet darts because my old ones were 1mm too large in diameter!
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Trust the Squirrel. If he says it's longer - even 1/16th of an inch, trust me - it's longer. He caught me on quite a few measurements on a project I was doing and he was right. (Darn him! ;))
same here! my v4 clone helmet was very much improved by those critical eyes!
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same here! my v4 clone helmet was very much improved by those critical eyes!
Now you know why we like him! ;)
David.
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Now you know why we like him! ;)
David.
I'm here to help! ;) ;D
same here! my v4 clone helmet was very much improved by those critical eyes!
And now it really rocks! ;D I hate when stuff is off/misaligned. I feel excellence shows in symmetrical perfection. Unless you're trying to go asymmetrical, always look for flaws!
I've replaced Fett parts for much smaller than 1/16" issues :)
I recently upgrade gauntlet darts because my old ones were 1mm too large in diameter!
:o :o
Oh my! You sir, are dedicated! I respect your determination! Plus, it's amazing how off even a millimeter can look. . . ;D
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Plus, it's amazing how off even a millimeter can look. . . ;D
especially on something really small, like boba's gauntlet darts.
a millimeter on a 3 foot long piece, no big deal. but a millimeter on something that's only 3mm to begin with is a HUGE difference.
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especially on something really small, like boba's gauntlet darts.
a millimeter on a 3 foot long piece, no big deal. but a millimeter on something that's only 3mm to begin with is a HUGE difference.
And that's what makes it so important. Helmets usually are no more than 10" tall, so 1/16" can be substantial to the eye. And I've trained myself to look for that kind of thing to catch errors as quick and as early in a build as possible!
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Nope...you're just anal about stuff like that. ;D
David.
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"EHHH, close enough." did NOT get us to the moon, or produce the internal cumbustion engine, or create the laser, it is the 'anal people of this world that create the truly life changing items!!!
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Actually... "close enough" is exactly what got us to where we are, technologically. Absolute precision would have killed the moon missions, the engine, and most modern tech... Everything has incorporated into its design and manufacture (and undertaking) "acceptable tolerance limit"
The thing is, how close is enough? See the scale example before. The easy rule of thumb is within 1% of the whole.
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MY point is, 'close enough' generally blows up in your face. If it works, you have passed 'close enough' and reached 'hey cool, that worked!"
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You and I have different definitions... though it's understandable. I'm married to a perfectionist, of the type that rarely finishes a project because it's never quite good enough... always striving for that last micron of perfection, so.. I might be a little bit skewed in THAT direction (and hearing it in her voice) when you're saying "close enough" isn't good enough.
Whereas I have a general level of tolerance for "close enough" which varies based on how rough I want the final product to look (See my knives for an example of rough)
For MY HBF conversion, I'm not aiming for rough finish.
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Wow, Aden...that's awesome. ;)
Having seen an HBF in person out of the box, I would have never thought it possible....great work! :D
Rob
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i have one but my dad wont help change it
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A'den, very nice. Now I have a plan of attack for the helemt. ;D I noticed you didn't use the original visor and used a weilder's visor. What was the reason for doing that? Couldn't you just resuse the visor to save a little extra cash?
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Unless you cover it with a darker tint or a mirrored tint, the stock visor wouldn't be dark enough. My fiancee has one of these, and you can see her face clear as day through it.
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A'den, very nice. Now I have a plan of attack for the helemt. ;D I noticed you didn't use the original visor and used a weilder's visor. What was the reason for doing that? Couldn't you just resuse the visor to save a little extra cash?
The stock visor is too see through. club requires the visor of the helmet to be "flash proof" but the stock visor you can see through in normal lighting conditions.
As for applying tint, it's a quick easy fix however, the shape of the stock visor wont work with the modded helmet and applied tinits fail in time. Better to just spend the 10.00 and get a face shield to start with.
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The stock visor is too see through. club requires the visor of the helmet to be "flash proof" but the stock visor you can see through in normal lighting conditions.
As for applying tint, it's a quick easy fix however, the shape of the stock visor wont work with the modded helmet and applied tinits fail in time. Better to just spend the 10.00 and get a face shield to start with.
Ah, gottcha. 8)
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The stock visor is too see through. club requires the visor of the helmet to be "flash proof" but the stock visor you can see through in normal lighting conditions.
As for applying tint, it's a quick easy fix however, the shape of the stock visor wont work with the modded helmet and applied tinits fail in time. Better to just spend the 10.00 and get a face shield to start with.
I cut down the stock visor in my mod just for S's & G's and it fits perfectly. Buuuuut, it is way too see through and would require a tint film. I figured tinting it would be a waist of time & money. To tint it, one would need to by a roll of tint and just use a small portion of it. Agreed, just buy a welding visor & cut it to fit.
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I'm not sure where you guys shop for tint, but I can get a section of black or mirrored tint, usually enough to do 2 visors, for under $10 shipped from Ebay, which is cheaper than a welding visor and has none of the annoying 'green fog' issues that the welding piece does.
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Either way, where can I get tint or the welders shield?
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In the "LINKS" area, there is thread with a link to s store on amazon.com that sells them. Theyre about 10.00 shipped. Or, if you have a local welding supply store, they may stock them. Make sure it's the #5 Dark Green Face Shield.
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Make sure it's the #5 Dark Green Face Shield.
I take it that's the most resistant to flash.
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I take it that's the most resistant to flash.
Its the one used by Boba in Star wars ;)
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Its the one used by Boba in Star wars ;)
...that makes sense.
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are you going to use this as a form for making helmets? i have started the same wip and will be using this as a form to build more.
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are you going to use this as a form for making helmets? i have started the same wip and will be using this as a form to build more.
No, even modding it that much, I'd still consider it recasting as it's 1. a licensed product and 2. still availabel in store. If the itme ever became scarce and unavailable perhaps. but, as long as they are available to the public readily that'd be issues with the prop building community and LFL.
The helmet was actually auction off in a charity auction and belongs to Kalbuir_69 now.
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And I can tell you the pics, although amazing, they do not do the Buy'ce justice. I am totally over the moon over it.
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Using your method, aside from incorporating sintra instead of the for sale signs, I've almost got a complete troopable helmet. Need to install my visor, but aside from that, it's set.
You're guide has been a great insight, and is the only way I'd have ever considered cvonverting the Hasbro helm to one for me to wear.
Thanks, A'den
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Can't wait to see it!
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Using your method, aside from incorporating sintra instead of the for sale signs, I've almost got a complete troopable helmet. Need to install my visor, but aside from that, it's set.
Same for me. I just need to wait for the visor to arrive.
I have a WIP thread for my build, but this thing is turning out so cool that I don't want too many pics of it because I want to debut the new bucket & armor look at Mid Ohio Con.
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thanks for showing me how to do this i might walk up to wally world and get one :D
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Very creative. Quick question, I know it looks too scale, but what bugs me the most of this original out of the box model is the size of the actual T-visor. How did you make it thinner?
P.S. You might want to offer to sell these to different stages. For example, I would buy one after you finished the bondo. That way you could charge for the complete helmet , or half prize for just assembling it with all the "for sale" card. Dunno, just an idea.
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Very creative. Quick question, I know it looks too scale, but what bugs me the most of this original out of the box model is the size of the actual T-visor. How did you make it thinner?
Did you not read the 1st page? The entire rebuild of this helmet is because of the wide visor.
The bucket out of the box needs a facelift. The front part needs sliced up and reassembled. Once the face is altered, a custom cut visor needs to be installed.
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Did you not read the 1st page? The entire rebuild of this helmet is because of the wide visor.
The bucket out of the box needs a facelift. The front part needs sliced up and reassembled. Once the face is altered, a custom cut visor needs to be installed.
LOL, this!
As for selling them, not interested. Way too much work involved and it's Hasrbo's product that anyone can go buy and do themselves. The labor is enough to charge as much or more per helmet than getting a cast one. So there'd really be no win win in it. The only win win with this helmet is to do it yourself. Even then the cost and labor vs a pre cast helmet is walking a fine line.
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And I for one can say that the artistic expertise and time involved would likely double the cost of the build. The Buy'ce that A'den did is on par if not better done than most of the "professional" movie props I have seen and or handled. I spent many yrs working in the haunt venue and have handled applied and worn a lot of hollywood grade FX costuming and this is far better than 90% of the stuff I have worn and had destroyed by normal wear and tear. Hell the only way I could see to make this more resistant to wear and tear would have been to fabricate it out of 16 gauge steel. and that would have ended up with a 18 pound bucket. As a former SCAdian I can tell you that even an hour in a helmet that heavy leads to neck soreness and other problems.
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The only win win with this helmet is to do it yourself.
SOME (not naming names, you know who I am) would argue that there really Is No Win-win with this helmet. ;D ;)
But seriously, A'den's mods to the helmet look great, and need to be commended, but unless you have been doing this kind of rebuilding, modeling, fabrication for a length of time, the helmet will more than likely end up not looking right, then you are forced to buy a precast anyways. I want to SERIOUSLY stress that this would be a project for at least a craftsman of intermediate experience.
IF you got the materials on hand, and the skill, then I say go for it. But if you end up having to purchase all the materials, and learn as you go, then talk to DSB or Asok about a resin bucket. I hate to see people waist money.
I wish we could adopt a Skill Rating system like they have for plastic models on our tutorials.. :-\
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I wish we could adopt a Skill Rating system like they have for plastic models on our tutorials.. :-\
that is one of the best ideas i've heard in ages!
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I have my moments.
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I was looking at my helmet and had did the bonding to keep it from falling apart but i was using 5 min apoxy and fiberglass cloth to seal the top from coming apart. So i took some pics of it and you'll see the work i did on just a basic, funny thing is i didn't have to add except to the t-visor to get rid of the gap which i may leave it so i can have a vent to breathe in since the last helmet i had which was that rubies 1 piece helmet of rubber. That makes you sweat. I spent about $35.00 on the helmet and the rest was under $20.00 and i'm still working on it with wrapping the helmet with some camo on it. and that would cost me like $60.0 to get the job done which it's in the process now.
Pic 1 Before Any Work
(http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af33/SnakeEyes375/Snake%20Eyes%20Mandalorian%20Armor/SnakeEyesWithNewBobaFettHelmet1.jpg)
Pic 2 Setting The 5 min apoxy and fiberglass cloth
(http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af33/SnakeEyes375/Snake%20Eyes%20Mandalorian%20Armor/BobaFettAirSoftHelmet1.jpg)
Pic 3 The Fiberglass cloth setting in with the 5 min apoxy
(http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af33/SnakeEyes375/Snake%20Eyes%20Mandalorian%20Armor/BobaFettAirSoftHelmet3.jpg)
Pic 4 After the cloth and apoxy dried up
(http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af33/SnakeEyes375/Snake%20Eyes%20Mandalorian%20Armor/BobaFettAirSoftHelmet5.jpg)
Pic 5 Wire mesh for setting in for the t-visor and also covering the key holes
(http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af33/SnakeEyes375/Snake%20Eyes%20Mandalorian%20Armor/WireMeshDeskLetterTray.jpg)
Pic 6 4holes was drilled in the back so i can screw in the square wire mesh but still give me a vents from sweating
(http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af33/SnakeEyes375/Snake%20Eyes%20Mandalorian%20Armor/HelmetAccesories1.jpg)
Pic 7 2 hole on the front arrows for my lights to have it glow green
(http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af33/SnakeEyes375/Snake%20Eyes%20Mandalorian%20Armor/BobaFettAirSoftHelmet6.jpg)
Pic 8 Green lights to fit in the arrows to accent my helmet, 9volt battery
(http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af33/SnakeEyes375/Snake%20Eyes%20Mandalorian%20Armor/GreenLightForTheArrows.jpg)
Pic 9 Front of the helmet with the t-visor tinted out with 20% tint on the visor
(http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af33/SnakeEyes375/Snake%20Eyes%20Mandalorian%20Armor/BobaFettAirSoftHelmet4.jpg)
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Not sure what your intentions are for this helmet, and I would guess you already know this, but you will have to modify it significantly more than that for it to be approved.
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Naw just a fun project for me to have till i get my helmet sent to me in a few weeks for my actul armor and full mando gear
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Roger that.
Carry on.
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Of course i will ;D besides i had to play with a helmet and tool around with it, besides this here helmet is getting set up for air soft mask and also a priject for somthing to do on my day off from work
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on a safety note, you REALLY want to make sure that ALL of those glass fibers are saturated in resin. you don't want that stuff shedding in your hair / being breathed in when you are wearing it.
fiberglass is nasty stuff, and i avoid it whenever possible. but it has its uses, and isn't too scary if well handled.
i always make sure to coat all the fibers, get it SMOOTH so there are no razor sharp spikes, then seal it with some spray paint to prevent that lingering "fiberglass smell".
i just got a clone helmet that was fiberglass with a coat of urethane resin slushed in. it made for a glossy smooth, smell free interior. very nice.
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STG hit it on the head. Fiberglass is nasty, nasty stuff... I know a friend of mine has one of these they want to mod, and i've told them it's best to seal the fiberglass patch with plasti-dip or such. It's that little bit of extra strength, and helps make sure nothing harmful happens.Since most of us lack urethane resin XD
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Right totally agreed on this with both of you on this, i did cut the loos stuff and also coated it with a resin my friend has which i have to get the name of it which i dont recall what it is but it dose work wonders and when i get the helmet back from the decal place i'm gonna add some foam to it so it will insure my health more then anything even though i breath more then that when i was a volly firefighter/emt. and i've worked with figerglass before on a car with a friend at his shop which we had masks on our faces so yeah getting it in your system in fubar
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Are you modding the visor so it's not so wide?
If not and it's just for fun, I may need to break this topic off from here and pop it down to the non-mando costume section. Reason being is I don't want to confuse folks who are modding these for actual use with their costume by making them think that they don't have to narrow the visor.
Please advise.
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I'm done with what i was pointing out about my helmet and what i did since it does bear about the helmet in question and what can be done to it like every1 put their 2 cents in. other then that have fun ;D
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My semi-finished version. Semi, meaning that I need to apply mesh to the keyholes and wiring up my inside electronics.
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb57/Biohazardouswithin/DSCN0315.jpg?t=1286244213)
As the inside, with a fitted construction helmet ring.
And...
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb57/Biohazardouswithin/DSCN0314.jpg?t=1286244338)
The thing on the side is a typical energizer three-bulb LED light. I dremeled off the back, drilled some holes, and attached it to what once was the back side of the antenna. Functional on red, bright, and super bright.
All thanks to A'den's guide!
Post Script: Just about anyone could do these modifications if you have ANY experience with a dremel. This helmet is a cheap dream. With sintra I already had, and buying a fews cans of spray paint I ended up spending only around Fifty bucks, and a spread out eight or so hours.
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Any chance of some better pics , trying to break my neck looking at this ;) looks good though .
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That's looking pretty darn good! Hide those push buttons on the right ear though. You can just sand the raised piece smooth and cover with a piece of for sale sign over it. It will still function and it hides that toy aspect of it.
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If I may ask Ky'lak, did you even cut any of the face apart, or did you just add to the mandible to narrow the visor? It looks great! I want to do something similar for my fiancee's so that I can get her official. All she needs is an approvable helmet, which I would like to make out of her HBF, and touch up her kit.
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You can definatly see he rebuilt the face. The cheeks would be about 1/2 as tall as they are if he hadnt ;D. being a guy that's spents hours with my hands in the guts of this helmet, Im quite intimate with it ;).
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If I may ask Ky'lak, did you even cut any of the face apart, or did you just add to the mandible to narrow the visor? It looks great! I want to do something similar for my fiancee's so that I can get her official. All she needs is an approvable helmet, which I would like to make out of her HBF, and touch up her kit.
You can see the welding from the inside ner'vod .
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Wow, I didn't even notice that at first glance. 8) Thanks!
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Sorry for the rediculously long wait on replies. Yes, I ripped out all the guts, as A'den suggested. If you leave in all the rest the thing has a mechanical feel, and you can't properly alter the cheeks. I did alot of the bond work with Quicksteel for plastic. It's sandable, grindable, and even nailable (not that you should be nailing) but I used it for molding the lengthened cheekplates. It was the perfect product for me, and considering I had it around it was perfect.
From before, A'den, you suggested covering the helmet. I'm going to leave the buttons as part of the look. I understand canonically, that all the helmets have inner-working, but as Boba had crushgaunt buttons, the helmet could have functions that those buttons control. I'll just have to figure it out. I had them covered first, didn't like it, and then uncovered 'em again.
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Covering the buttons was an important fact for the rest of the Council and App Team in making the helmet acceptable for club use. So, if your intention is to use this helmet as a part of a kit you want to submit for Official Membership here, you'll have to cover them or at least come up with a cool way to disguise them.
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Cool idea for the buttons (because I like the look of the buttons): Try to mirror the buttons onto the left earcap as well, so you have something that looks like the buttons on both sides. If that doesn't work when I try it on my build, I'll just find greeblies to stick on top of them. The cases that contact lenses come in make awesome greeblies for that sort of thing, in my experience.
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Cool idea for the buttons (because I like the look of the buttons): Try to mirror the buttons onto the left earcap as well, so you have something that looks like the buttons on both sides. If that doesn't work when I try it on my build, I'll just find greeblies to stick on top of them. The cases that contact lenses come in make awesome greeblies for that sort of thing, in my experience.
I too like the buttons exposed and I may try to mimic them on the left side earcap.
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I know a fast an dirty way to cast copies of things, will have to show people shortly when I have 5 mins with a camera :)
Though can't say I'm a fan of the buttons, the helmet is for trooping not playing with, so the buttons really aren't needed.
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I know a fast an dirty way to cast copies of things, will have to show people shortly when I have 5 mins with a camera :)
You have my attention sir....
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Done:
http://mandalorianmercs.org/forum/index.php?topic=30986.msg434266#msg434266
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A'den Skirata,
First off, great tutorial! I'm am just about to start my HBF conversion. I have all the supplies I'll need but would it be possible to use the visor that came with the helmet after the conversion if I add tint to it? I think I saw a post you did earlier that stated you used 20% tint from walmart. Did it work well to keep the visor, was the tint too dark, and any suggestions on replacement visors besides the green tinted welders visor?
-I'm looking to become a member in the near future.
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I actually used a #5 dark green welding shield. There is a link to an amazon.com store in the LINKS area. You can get them shipped for under $10.00. As for the tint, many people do the tint thing. Ive done it in the past as well. Only problem is it doesnt last long and if you dont apply it perfectly it gets bubbles and looks terrible.
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I'm the guy who did the 20% tint thing, and I haven't had any problem with the other buckets I used tint film on. A'den's right though, you do need to do it just about perfectly. And yes, you CAN use the original visor, with tinting, but it won't work with the shifting face method that A'den showed earlier in this thread, which (and you HAVE to trust A'den on this, he IS the expert) is the only way you're going to get it approved for something other than a specialist or concept build, and even with a specialist or concept build, you'll have to pull a LOT of tricks out of your sleeves to make it work.
Summary: Follow A'den's build if you want the HBF to be a normal modern-style Mando. If you don't, it almost certainly won't pass.
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Just thought I'd put up a progress shot of my own conversion.
So far I have left a lot of the existing face in place to act as reinforcement & something to glue onto.
I used Evergreen styrene sheet (1-2mm I think), attached to the original plastic using Weld-On solvent cement.
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h434/BenevolentDeviant/Beskar%20Gam/IMGP3572.jpg)
Obviously I still need to extend the cheek/visor edges down, fill up the dent and gaps, correct the length of the left face, etc.
Does the T visor look the appropriate size? I had to readjust after the first facelift didn't quite get high enough.
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Nice. I like the color of the white against the Boba colors.
Update on mine. My styrofoam head came loose from the mannequin. The finished HBF helmet went with it onto concrete (over a 5 foot fall). It survived with very little damage.
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Looking good Harman.
K'raam, nice to know it's sturdy!
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More Progress pics (have since realised I need some pictures from the back)
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h434/BenevolentDeviant/Beskar%20Gam/th_IMGP3586.jpg) (http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h434/BenevolentDeviant/Beskar%20Gam/?action=view¤t=IMGP3586.jpg)
Bondo'd (or local equivalent 3M lightweight body filler) plastic primered, undercoated silver, basecoated red oxide with toothpaste masking. A bunch of 2 part resin (EasyCast) to seal up the dome, with imbedded sytene sheet segments for additional support. I had dropped it after all my bondo work, splitting it in half, grrrr. Have also determine that not much works other than Aryldite on this plastic.
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h434/BenevolentDeviant/Beskar%20Gam/th_IMGP3588.jpg) (http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h434/BenevolentDeviant/Beskar%20Gam/?action=view¤t=IMGP3588.jpg)
Pre visor/antenna, basic paint and weathering. More toothpaste masking for additional playerd paint effect.
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h434/BenevolentDeviant/Beskar%20Gam/th_IMGP3596.jpg) (http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h434/BenevolentDeviant/Beskar%20Gam/?action=view¤t=IMGP3596.jpg)
Final. Touch up paint done with Citadel Acrylics (had them on hand) covered with a a satin clear coat. Attached antenna (may turn it into a "periscope" thingy later) Installed a Shade 5 green visor, and needed to reattached the right face due to a bit too much strain. 5 minute Aryldite is my new best friend.
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nice work! i love how the hasbro ends up looking a lot like the TCW / holiday special style mando helmet. i was very skeptical of them at first but a lot of great things are coming of them.
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Although I am not a huge fan of the TCW Mando Aesthetic, I must say that I would not be the least bit embarrassed to troop next to some of the HBF helmets I have seen converted. And while I still hold that I dont think the mod is worth it, especially for the novice, and that we need to really push this is a more advanced Mod, I have to commend those that have done it and done it well!
Good job, guys!
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Im very happy with the hard work and overall great result I see people getting with these!
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Thank you for the tutorial! I bought one of these a while ago, and was hoping i could make it acceptable somehow.
CouldThe concept of the buttons being reflected work if you wired them to, say a light or head lamp? Personally, I've been looking for a way to mod my helmet since I don't have the money for a premade one. I would probably scrap th speaker myself and rewire it to a headlamp like the one posted.... two pages ago? Haha. I admire your work, and it gives me hope because I personally like doing things myself than buying it pre-made.
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Check your local Wal-mart. In some stores, the helmet is down to $29.
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I just got one for christmas so I am going to give this a go. :D
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I like how you modded the Hasbro Fett Helmet.
I'm going to try that with mine.
Thanks.
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when u use primer do u have to sand it to get paint on there or just apply the paint after it drys.
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Apply the first coat of paint within 30mins of the primer curing.
When you see primer sanded that could be for a variety of reason however, more often than not it's because you're trying to find imperfections to fix or trying to hide imperfections. Primer is molecularly made to not need to be sanded. the surface it goes onto needs to be sanded but the primer itself doesn't.
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Apply the first coat of paint within 30mins of the primer curing.
When you see primer sanded that could be for a variety of reason however, more often than not it's because you're trying to find imperfections to fix or trying to hide imperfections. Primer is molecularly made to not need to be sanded. the surface it goes onto needs to be sanded but the primer itself doesn't.
Couldnt have said that better myself!
Though, knowing myself, It would have been a lengthy diatribe about the molecular properties of primer vs paint, and the chemical reaction that takes place between the two.. lol...
so in summary.... ^What he said^
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working on my helmet now. but before i paint or prime it im going to practice on something else first thanks
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Now I have one of these to lok at, tear apart, and measure, some interesting observations...
The dome hight, brow band width and thickness, keyhole panel cutout, visor opening width, distance from the corners of the visor opening to the back edge of the visor frame, and a couple other things are dead on to the original prop (symmetricalized, of course). Others aren't. The length front to back has been scaled up to make room for the HOOOOOGE earcaps, is the most noticable, not counting said earcaps themselves.
I've already begun work, with Kora's assistance. So's y'all know, my goal with the helmets I make for myself is idealized (evened out and symmetrical) 1:1 Boba. I've already utterly dismantled it and chucked all the bits I'm not going to be using. Incidentally, I got the earcaps off intact, including the connecting wire. If anyone wants or has use for the stupid sound files or wants the caps for some reason, let me know.
All the paint apps have been stripped off, I've roughened up the surface wtih 220-grit sandpaper, applied shears and dremel to all of the now-useless mounting points on the inside, and epoxied the visor frame to the dome front and the back skirt to the dome back. Now comes the fun part where I start measuring and removing...
Because the dome got lengthened front-to-back, I'm taking over a centimeter out where the two dome halves come together to tighten it back up. The mandibles need to be lengthened and widened a little. I need to trim the back skirt up about a centimeter and a half. And I'm using some scrap 1mm sintra to close up the sides where the earcaps were. From there we'll see. I've been taking pictures, but there's not much to see yet. I ought to have a WIP thread up by this weekend...
--Jonah
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the most pain in the butt was the cutting with the dremal. can i keep the dent or is that a instant give away its a hb helmet? need to get more epoxy since i didnt have enough and gonna get a 5 gallon bucket since im doing a samurai back to my helmet and maybe horns but not sure on that either
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If youre not costuming as Boba Fett, having Boba's telltale and famous dent is silly. I would just fill it with some bondo and call it good.
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Agreed A'den!
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When filling the dent with Bondo, be sure to "pin" the hole. Pinning is when you drill holes to help the filler hold better. Drill 3 tiny holes in the bottom of the dent. When filler is applied, it also goes in the holes and acts as an anchor.
Also be sure to scuff up the plastic, it will help the Bondo adhere better as opposed to a smooth surface.
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why not keep the dent i mean mando's get shot at all the time sometimes ricochets happen.
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True... if the helmet is durasteel or plastoid. Beskar doesn't dent. Also, the dent's shape, placement, size etc. if indicitive of Boba Fett. So much so the website for Boba Fett costuming chose the name "The Dented Helmet" because it's such an iconic feature of Boba Fett. Honestly, take th dent away from Boba Fett and see how much you really do miss it. Add that same dent to anyone but Boba Fett and see just how much it stands out.
Honestly, there's nothing iin the CRL's that states you mucst remove it. And, a very few members do have it. But, if you want my brutalling honest, straight forward opinion and it will be that of the majority here as well, leaving Boba's helmet dent on your custom Mando is lazy costuming. Period. Hate to put it so sharply but, that's how I feel about it. Also, if you're going to put the required work into an HBF to make it useable for the club, filling and smoothing the dent is fhe easiest part of the whole mod.
I know personally, regardless of CRL's, I wouldn't allow a member of my clan to not fill the dent unless they were costuming as Boba Fett. I flat out wouldn't have it.
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submit this and your app to Hasbro and say "you need me people"
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I agree with A'den concerning The Boba Dent , its more than a dent its a trade mark ! If you want a dent , just fill the Boba one and make another else where on the bucket . I didnt do a dent on mines as im claiming Beskar and have a few big ricochet scuffs . ;D
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I think it's been implied many a time, but the easiest thing to do is spell it out that the CRLs are the minimum requirements to become a Mandalorian Mercs member. Every member is encouraged to strive past the basics and set forth making ground breaking armour that everyone is going to wow at.
Filling in the Boba dent is one of those first steps to breaking past "just enough" to pass the CRLs.
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well this costume isnt going to be my official one. its going to be a for fun build to see how the process goes and time. and if i really want to for my official one ill buy a helmet from the trading station.
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Is this for your Samurai Mando?
Because if this is just for fun, the whole WIP needs to be moved from the armour section to the other costumes.
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I have a quick question, on this part here
(http://www.majhost.com/gallery/RetroCorn/Armor/bobahelmet.jpg)
Is it best to dremel along those red lines? Or should I try my best to break open the two sides? Because I can't find the screws to unscrew them. :(
Thanks!
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Are you going to cut the earcaps out? While the earcaps are a bit on the large and wonky side, the helmet is approvable with them. Of course, no harm if you want them out either.
If you simply want to unscrew them, there are little recessed caps on the earcaps exterior. They are hard plastic and the screws are underneath. you can drill through the plastic and unscrew them.
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I'm planning on leaving the earpieces on as long as it is approvable with them. I'm going to tear the electronics out though.
Will a plastic cutting dremel blade work well on this type of plastic?
Thanks!
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It should but, if you want to keep the earcaps and remove the electronics that's probably overkill. A drill bit or a diamond tip should be enough to get you through.
The earcaps are a bit wider than standard but overall they're not terrible... at least not as bad as that right earcap on the 2 piece Jango. But, they are certainly oversized. If you look at how I modded/covered/hid them in the early posts you can see how to make them usuable.
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On the inside or the outside? And the reason I asked is because I used a standard disc and the plastic started bunching on me.
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Yeah, that plastic will clump up on ya and make a mess. Nothing a little quick sanding won't clean up though. The recessed covers are on the exterior of the earcaps.theyre little circles a tad smaller in diameter thna the eraser tip on a pencil.
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Try using a razor blade or X-acto knife to cut the plastic. It makes cleaner cuts.
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I used my philips head screwdriver to go through the screw caps myself
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I used my philips head screwdriver to go through the screw caps myself
I used a drill bit. once it started to eat into the cap, it twisted out. Once I reassembled the bucket, I filled the holes with Bondo.
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I saw the one Kal_Buir won in the raffle at our armor party today, gotta say that is some true craftsmanship A'den. ;D
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Is this an acceptable amount of space for the top horizontal section of the visor?
http://www.majhost.com/gallery/RetroCorn/Armor/wp_000016.jpg (http://www.majhost.com/gallery/RetroCorn/Armor/wp_000016.jpg)
There's exactly a half inch gap on the far left.
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Is this an acceptable amount of space for the top horizontal section of the visor?
http://www.majhost.com/gallery/RetroCorn/Armor/wp_000016.jpg (http://www.majhost.com/gallery/RetroCorn/Armor/wp_000016.jpg)
There's exactly a half inch gap on the far left.
Looks fine ;)
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Can you embed the photo using the [img] code?
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I'll try, but last night it wouldn't let me post it as an image for some reason.
Here you go:
(http://www.majhost.com/gallery/RetroCorn/Armor/wp_000016.jpg)
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How much does the visor need to be narrowed?
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How much does the visor need to be narrowed?
Like the one above your post.
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How much does the visor need to be narrowed?
That one has exactly a half inch gap where it ends at the far left.
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For the sake of reference, the original was 7mm high at the corners like that, and 20mm between the brow band and the corners of the vertical part of the 'T'.
--Jonah
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i still think the quality of these toys (yes, its a toy) is very very low compared to even a cheap helmet. it's the most important part of the armor and just because it can be turned into a working merc helmet doesn't necessarily mean it should.
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Opinions vary...
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i still think the quality of these toys (yes, its a toy) is very very low compared to even a cheap helmet. it's the most important part of the armor and just because it can be turned into a working merc helmet doesn't necessarily mean it should.
Unmodded, yeah. It is pretty crappy. Modded though? They're a good start and they're a pretty large helmet, which is really useful for tall people like me.
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i made a converson out of one of these and i think its great for beginners who want to learn how to build their own helmet
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i'm curious as to how many official members have had their first costumes become official with the hasbro helmet?
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Dunno. We'll see how mine does. The WIP thread is a dozen or so down below the pinned threads in here. I'm going to be posting up more pics tomorrow, but so far I'm having no problems turning it into a dead-on accurate Boba helmet. It's the old "pick two" equation for me. I have almost no money, but plenty of time and a modicum of skill and an eye for detail. So I have no problem dumping the skill and work into it that it needs to not look lame.
I still think it's less about the materials than the person. I'm sure one could come up with more than one high-end resin replica helmet that ended up a pig's ear. >_> Lucas, I know how you feel and it isn't unfounded. Maybe stake a drink or something on whether mine flies once I'm done with it? :) I have no problem continuing with my other plans if this one gets downchecked, but I have a good feeling about how it's going so far. ;D
--Jonah
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i'm curious as to how many official members have had their first costumes become official with the hasbro helmet?
Actually, I think there's 4 or 5 at least.
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Okay, got it. The cross bar of the "tee" goes from 7mm to 20mm, correct? Does the width of thevertical bar need to be adjusted?
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Actually, I think there's 4 or 5 at least.
first time costumers with that as their helmet?
i looked through the most recent 'congrats' thread and most look like 2piece jangos, DSBs or scratch builds
if that's the case then i'm pleasantly surprised and glad that this guide is so helpful
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first time costumers with that as their helmet?
i looked through the most recent 'congrats' thread and most look like 2piece jangos, DSBs or scratch builds
if that's the case then i'm pleasantly surprised and glad that this guide is so helpful
(http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx161/AdenSkirata/Mercs%20App/Shannon2_front.jpg)
(http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx161/AdenSkirata/Mercs%20App/AppSub3_Iviinkyr_front.jpg)
(http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx161/AdenSkirata/Mercs%20App/100_0811.jpg)
(http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx161/AdenSkirata/Mercs%20App/Front-9.jpg)
I guess that's it, that's all I could find anyway. I actually thought there were more. There have been a few that have applied and been kicked back however, only 1 or 2 for a completely unmodded HBF. the one's that had modded HBF's were for other issues.
While not yet approved, there are a few completed HBF's in the finished helmet thread that look pretty darn good too.
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I hafta agree with Peregrinus; it's all about how much time and effort folks are willing to put into it. Sure, you can do the bare minimum and get by with one, but it's easy to tell at a glance whether real work has been put into an HBF.
It certainly gives a better base than a straight scratch-build. For example, I recently began work on a custom helmet, probably going early era; I used the dome and back of a 2-pc and cut the face out, someone with a larger head could do the same with a(n) HBF.
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Okay, got it. The cross bar of the "tee" goes from 7mm to 20mm, correct? Does the width of thevertical bar need to be adjusted?
A bit, if you're going for accuracy and it fits your head/frame. The originals are 142mm and 145mm. I split the difference and rounded up to 144 (arbitrary, yes). Somewhere in that vicinity is accurate to the original, but, again, do what works for your head size and build and if you want to change it up a little to suit some plan you have, go for it.
It certainly gives a better base than a straight scratch-build.
Again, it depends. The problems I ran into with my scratch-build were the typical trial-and-error, didn't-expect-that learning-curve sorts of things. Of course, the building process itself is far easier with sintra than with steel. *chuckle* But between my dry run at scratch-building and my HBF conversion thus far, I'd say the actual work is about equal.. But I have a heat gun and a dremel and I know how to work with PVC (sintra and most toy helmets), so that might skew things. Someone else, with less access to tools, would probably have an easier time of it reworking something that already has its curves and angles built in...
--Jonah
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Here's what I have thus far:
(http://www.majhost.com/gallery/RetroCorn/Armor/photo_a2800255-ae0f-d25e-ef27-0ac410be5ed3.jpg)
Is the horizontal part of the visor right? It still looks off to me. :/
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As I said a few posts back, the original was 7mm high at the visor corners. We're used to seeing it narrow like that. Several on here have left it a bit wider so they can actually, you know, see. Do what you're comfortable with and what you think looks best. Me, I'm happy so sacrifice a little visibility for sake of accuracy and the classic look. *heh* But don't feel bound by my own peculiarities. ;)
--Jonah
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As I said a few posts back, the original was 7mm high at the visor corners. We're used to seeing it narrow like that. Several on here have left it a bit wider so they can actually, you know, see. Do what you're comfortable with and what you think looks best. Me, I'm happy so sacrifice a little visibility for sake of accuracy and the classic look. *heh* But don't feel bound by my own peculiarities. ;)
--Jonah
I don't feel bound at all, I just want to make sure that it's approvable. :P
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I don't feel bound at all, I just want to make sure that it's approvable. :P
There's alot of ro0om and freedom for creativity in this club as long as you don't stray to far outside the box... ie the end result LOOKS Mandalorian and in era. So, following Boba Fett measurements etc., isn't a must. Following the deathwatch mold isn't a must. The main thing with this helmet is cover the push buttons on the right ear, fill the seam on the left, fill the dome seam and dent and correct that terrible "toyvision" visor. What shape, widths etc you go with are personal preference and look desired.
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There's alot of ro0om and freedom for creativity in this club as long as you don't stray to far outside the box... ie the end result LOOKS Mandalorian and in era. So, following Boba Fett measurements etc., isn't a must. Following the deathwatch mold isn't a must. The main thing with this helmet is cover the push buttons on the right ear, fill the seam on the left, fill the dome seam and dent and correct that terrible "toyvision" visor. What shape, widths etc you go with are personal preference and look desired.
Sounds good to me. :D
Also, is there any way to get the visor to go all the way down?
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Not sure what you mean by that?
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I said visor, but I meant rangefinder. :P
I guess Hasbro didn't want the rangefinder to cover the visor due to visibility concerns, but it would be nice to have to come all the way down.
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I havent messed with that at all. You'd have to look closely at the mechanism and see if any trimming can be done.
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The Rangefinger could be trimmed, but would loose the blinky mechanism. Also it might not stay in the UP position very well.
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YES YES YES! Trim the HOUSING not the stalk, enough material can be removed from the ear cap housing to allow the finder to fully deploy. You will have to alter the trigger switch for the lights, if left as is it will jam when the RF is fully deployed. Not a big loss 'cause the lights an sounds are lame anyway.
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hm interesting breakthrough keep up the good work
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Man I've been working on one, and though I have "skills" and can make it look petty good, it's almost not worth it. It is just a fun "yes I can convert it" project, but I think, as others do, you're better off just shelling out the ductats for a helmet. I went about it a little differently, and am narrowing the ears as well, but man what a lot of work. I also have bondo and various glues and such, so not really spending much money besides the helmet itself, but definately not a newby easy way to get a helmet. It still is cool to see this, and how others have done it as well. I'm not sure what I'll do with it, might give it to a local member who dropped his down a flight of stairs, pretty much decimating it. So it is do-able, obviously, but if you have skills enough to do it, you probably don't want to waste your time on it, better to use that time pimping out a better bucket or something. Like others said, it's all about your skill and time, and perspective on the whole thing.
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You can cut the housing to make the rangefinder come even with the t-visor. Here are three different views to give you an idea as to how much is needed.
(http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/Dajuid/1a.jpg)
(http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/Dajuid/1c.jpg)
(http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/Dajuid/1b.jpg)
Here's the rangefinder on the helmet in the down position.
(http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo43/Dajuid/Image3.jpg)
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How does it stay in the UP position?
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What keeps the rangefinder in the up position is a little piece underneath the stalk at the base. My screw is stripped slightly, but still does well. When I start trooping, I'll need to firm it up, but the "lock" for lack of a better term, does its job well.
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Okay, sanding the cheeks is quite possibly the single most annoying thing I've ever done. No matter how much I sand I keep getting ridges in the bondo which show up clear as day. As well, I tried to use a mouse sander on the dome of the helmet and wound up causing it to have a "furred" look.
Anyone know how I could get rid of the fuzzy parts on my helmet? And aside from sanding more, are there any techniques I could use to get rid of those pesky ridges?
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If you have ridges, it could very well be that you don't have enough bondo on there. If it's bondo'd over a point where pieces overlap, sanding is just going to make the ridges more pronounced. As for the fuzzy parts, get a higher grit pad for your mouse, and you may have to end up going over it by hand with an even higher grit afterward.
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It's not so much the edges of the actual helmet as it is the edge of the bondo itself.
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It's not so much the edges of the actual helmet as it is the edge of the bondo itself.
Have you tried a finer grit sandpaper ?
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Yes, but I decided to try another solution, I've applied glazing putty over the areas and I'll sand them down later. Hopefully it will work.
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Yes, but I decided to try another solution, I've applied glazing putty over the areas and I'll sand them down later. Hopefully it will work.
Took the words awa from me there mate LOL I used glazing putty on my 2-piece a while back .
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Took the words awa from me there mate LOL I used glazing putty on my 2-piece a while back .
Yup, stuff can work miracles. :P
I'm starting to think that converting this helmet is more trouble than it's worth, but I must finish what I've begun.
Needless to say my next helmet will NOT be a HBF. :-[
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i started doeing a HBF mod and part way through decided to do a scratch build from cardboard and fiberglass and honestly (keep in mind im not done yet) although the scratch build has taken longer I think its easier overall. After i get my scratch done properly i may try my hand at the modded HBF again.
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Well it worked, the glazing putty got the whole helmet MUCH smoother. Hopefully I won't have too many layers of primer on it though, as I've been using it to spot the imperfections.
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I had the fuzzy issue too. The plastic used on these helmets is the worst kind for modding.
I used finer sandpaper (BY HAND) and used primer to eliminate the fuzz.
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PVC is my least-favourite kind of plastic to work with. Unfortunately, it's the favourite -- for decades -- for toy companies to make these things out of. >_<
--Jonah
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i used 2 part plumbers epoxy it works but there are better ways
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THem's fightin' words. :P I love two-part plumbers' epoxy putty. I use other things in addition to it, but it's always there. :)
--Jonah
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THem's fightin' words. :P I love two-part plumbers' epoxy putty. I use other things in addition to it, but it's always there. :)
Same here! I don't think I've done a project ever without some of that stuff working its way in! I even carry a tube in my armor bin for emergency repairs.
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I use it extensively in my helmet mods. I've been accumulating progress pics for my four Clonetrooper and one Boba Hasbro conversions, and I'll be posting them up soon. I remember you saying on the subject, back on TDH when you were doing your first Hasbro clone mod, that you felt epoxy putty woul dmake the helmet too heavy to wear. I don't know if you've shifted on that, but I have not had any problems. I use it for all minor filling and seam-hiding, and use it to cover over where I've used Great Stuff to fill in larger voids... and the helmet still comes out lighter than before I ripped out all the unnecessary toy innards. *heh*
--Jonah
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see toward the bottom
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Did you leave it to rest on the mandibles while it set?
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i used c clamps why the loctite glue set whys
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I meant the way the bottoms of the mandibles are all flared out funky. It looks like you sculpted them from 2 part epoxy an dthen while the epoxy was stiill setting you set the helmet down on a flat surface and teh weight of the helmet squished the bases of the mandibles out.
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yeah i might have to get more and try and straighten it out.
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i have a quick question on this. A friend o fmine has taken interest into mando's after seeing mmy scratch build I'm working on. I've done some mod work on his its a little different from what shown in this thread. But my question is about visors. I was readinbg a couple pages back in the feud over the window tint and welding levses etc. But has anyone tried vht nightshades? Because it worked pretty well on his new visor its a spray on tint; its basically clear coat mixed with translucent black.
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another window tint t visor, is to get a picture frame with the plexy glass and (after using a template of your visor) cut out and put window tint on the cut out t visor and tada your done. i saw it here in the forums but cant remember where ill look around if you like
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i was just asking if anyone else had tried it. It sprays like paint but looks like 20% tint.
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20% wouldn't be dark enough. The stuff is formulated to look black until the lights come on and then let the light through unimpeded. That means if someone takes a picture of that visor with a flash, you'll see the person's face.
I have Nite-Shade™ for the little lens thingies on the tip of my Phase I Clonetrooper helmet fins -- I have ample spare clear faceshield material, I want the three red LEDs to show through clearly and not be diffused or dimmed, and this was the most-cost-efficient option.
I can see it being okay for a visor if you have it also backed off with mirrored or semimirrored tinting. That way it can look black from the front, not impair one's vision overmuch, and still reflect camera flashes. Theoretically. ;) If you have the stuff on-hand, try it, but be prepared for it to not work. I'll probably tinker, too.
--Jonah
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HIs worked out I trimmed the origional smoked looking visor to fit then sprayed; I use this stuff religiously in my custom shop when I'm working on imports for people. So I'm guessing the smoked visor is what made it dark enough because in his test shots and stuff from where his fiance had the idea of trying camera flashes it worked......my scratch build however needs a darker one.
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*thumbs up* Experimentation is awesome. ;)
--Jonah
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a goos advice from a member told me if i want to tint my visor go to 35%
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Are you going to cut the earcaps out? While the earcaps are a bit on the large and wonky side, the helmet is approvable with them. Of course, no harm if you want them out either.
If you simply want to unscrew them, there are little recessed caps on the earcaps exterior. They are hard plastic and the screws are underneath. you can drill through the plastic and unscrew them.
So there is a single screw left in one of the ear caps that was under one of the plastic caps. I had used the screw driver to get through it like one of the others had. Some how I managed to strip to screw and am a bit at a loss as to how to get it out. I want to be able to reattach the ear cap, but the screw itself I'm not worried about. I pulled at least 15 screws out of the helmet that wont go back where they were. Any suggestions?
The other question I have with this being my first bucket is, how do you attack the visor when the helmet is done. The one I pulled out was screwed in, but I don't think that the new one goes in the same way does it?
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I have a special tool for removing screws like that. It basically drills into the scre and you can then back it out. Without that tool Im sure it can be done but, it's not going to be fun!
As for the visor, I dremel off the screw attach points and hotglue the new visor in.
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I have a special tool for removing screws like that. It basically drills into the scre and you can then back it out. Without that tool Im sure it can be done but, it's not going to be fun!
As for the visor, I dremel off the screw attach points and hotglue the new visor in.
Yeah I went to find an extractor set at wally world last night with no luck. Should have expected that. I tried getting it out with a rubber band, no luck there either. I'm thinking even if I do get an extractor that it might not fit into the hole. I guess I could make the hole bigger to get it out and then just refill it. Just annoying for this to happen on my last screw before my final cuts to the mask. >.<
I wanted to be sure I was getting the right stuff, so I thought I'd clarify. When you, and so many others, say bondo, does this mean the light weight body filler? As bondo is a brand I got a little lost. I believe the filler is what I'm looking for just wanted to be sure.
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Yup, lightweight automotive body filler.
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As I'm up way earlier than usual. I think I'll make a run to the hardware store and try and find an extractor, or at least a drill bit. I believe I can drill through the head just enough for the screw to release and and still have enough sticking out to unscrew with needle nose pliers.
Then I need to make the last two cuts to the face, take out the electronics, and glass the dome. Excited about this build. Its a great guide man, thanks for putting the time into this one.
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The extractor I got must have been too large for the screw. It also came with a small drill bit though and I took the screw down a bit and my screwdriver was actually able to pull it out from there. Made my last few cuts, did some sanding of the edges and glassed my dome. Ready for more once I get off work.
After you rebuilt the face and then glassed it. Did you use the cloth on this? I noticed there were a few placed you didn't, and I wasn't sure if the cloth was needed on the face. I'm assuming you just glassed over your hot glue as well yeah?
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Yeah, the hotglue was used lightly just to tac things together. I glassed right over and yes, I did use the cloth to enhance the strength.
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Well I'm fixng to go with one of these for my new kit I'm working on, I dont know how he did it but my littl bro busted his, and its still a toy.....but not for long ;D
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wow now this is helpful
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Check your local Target stores. I just got a HBF for $18 on clearance.
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Based on my recent hasbro conversion experience here:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B3ZBPM_SPDc/Tf8ED1T8LLI/AAAAAAABOQI/j-sYUGzZCNI/s400/P1080842.JPG)
http://mandalorianmercs.org/forum/index.php?topic=39375.0
I had an idea to create a simple low cost conversion kit to replace the faceplate. What do people think of this idea? This is just the faceplate, but one could also do the same with the ears.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/263719_10150343294028986_831153985_10065704_279715_n.jpg)
-please excuse the crude diagram, I drew this on the train ride in to work
I suspect one could also market these to general public via eBay in much the same way there are hasbro kits for E11 blasters.
I may try to make the fiberglass molds for this, but I do not have the vacforming equipment to do the production. Anyone interested in helping me out with this project?
Im happy that structurally this ends up becoming an easy project and people can then divert their efforts to other things of more value rather than every second person re-inventing the wheel with this converstion. (though I admit, it is fun)
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it all looks good on paper but only when you actually try it will you see results and how smooth or pain it will be
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Honestly it is not a bad idea, but on the other hand the hasbro helmets sem to be comeing to the end of thier production as they are going clearence at major retailors and like any toy they won't be on the shelf forever. So it becomes a questioon of how long they will reamin on the market, as wether or not it is worth it.
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this is one of my conversions of this toy helmet , and is the one i will be using to troop in untill the masterpeice arrives ......will post pics of the others as they are completed ( soon )
(http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad110/vshocktrooper/100_2092.jpg)
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thats VERY cool. great work
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Hey, Falin. I'm in the middle of modding one of these right now. When you installed the visor, did you put it in that little lip where the original visor was?
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No, that was filled in during the fiberglassing phase.
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So I've started my own conversion and am running into a few snags. I've been following your tutorial but am having some trouble with the disassembly process. Is there a way to remove the mandibles and cheeks without just attacking it with a dremel? I can't seem to get access to the screws. Here is my progress so far (please ignore the shoddy dremel work. I'm still learning)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g429/chaptereleven/armor/d1affe50.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g429/chaptereleven/armor/cb1ca667.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g429/chaptereleven/armor/1430e950.jpg)
Any tips? Or just I just dremel away?
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Use a drill to drill out the screw covers since those will need to be filled in anyway. Just make sure that you don't drill into the screw itself.
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^^^^ A good way to keep a drill bit from going in too far is to wrap it near the tip with masking tape or painters' tape, leaving just the length you want exposed. For the earcap screw covers, an eighth of an inch should be plenty, if I remember right. Even if it just gets the plastic thin enough to hook a dental tool or x-acto knife into and pull it out...
--Jonah
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Thanks for the tips guys. Unfortunately I did hit a screw and created a huge inconvenience. :-\. I gonna create my own thread soon, but how does this spacing look? It's just taped for now.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g429/chaptereleven/armor/0f88d3e7.jpg)
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From where your chin sits in relation to the mandible tips, it looks like you have room to play with. I know visibility is a desireable goal, but I would actually sacrifice an 1/8th of an inch. just to tighten the cross of the tee a little more.
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I have spotted these on clearance now at WalMart, marked down to $23.
Check you local stores, all locations clear items & price them independently...
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I know visibility is a desireable goal, but I would actually sacrifice an 1/8th of an inch. just to tighten the cross of the tee a little more.
Just as "a look" note, the thinner the top part of the t-visor is the meaner you look, but visibility is important. At that point I would say that it passes CRL's but if you want to go thinner, then its all personal preference. Oh and don't forget to cut the connector off between the mandibles after you glue the face into place.
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Just as "a look" note, the thinner the top part of the t-visor is the meaner you look, but visibility is important. At that point I would say that it passes CRL's but if you want to go thinner, then its all personal preference. Oh and don't forget to cut the connector off between the mandibles after you glue the face into place.
^This^ absolutely, you are well within regs, but as with all items, why settle? Just that smidge will add a air of mean to your kit.
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These have dropped to $17.48 at the Meijer stores in the Cincinnati area. I picked one up just for the heck of it at that price.
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Oh and don't forget to cut the connector off between the mandibles after you glue the face into place.
I suggest keeping that piece on as long as possible. It will help keep the 2 pieces properly spaced. You can cut it out once you have everything in place and securely glued. Cut it out before painting.
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc164/redmando/Tutorials/IMG_2741.jpg)
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got my hasbro helmet for around 9 bucks clearance at target was a steal
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Hey Falin, quick question as I'm going to try to do this entire mod today, maybe minus the paint. Do you think it would be just as applicable to use the plumber putty that you used on the mandibles to fill in the dent? Being a tougher and easier to manage (at least for me) material, I was thinking I might just got for it. Let me know if you think it would be a complete failure. :P Thanks!
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It should work, just make sure you give it some anchor holes or it might pop out.
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It would certainly work. I just find the stuff VERY difficult to sand. Whereas Bondo sands away nicely the plumbers putty requires a super low grit or sanding drum on a dremel.
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I notices that you kept the buttons intact, yet bondo'd all of the seams on the other earcap. Wouldn't that make it impossible (or a least very hard) to access the batteries?
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Well, while some who are more electronically gifted than I may be able or/and willing to work that out, my goal was to turn a toy into a prop, not retain the toy. The fact that some of the features survived was purley secondary and coincidental, not deliberate.
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What did you do to fix the range finder gaps? I was looking at possibly bondo-ing the gaps or putting some plastic over them and sanding.
This is a great project for anyone just starting out, you get to learn great, no, ESSENTIAL skills for costuming and the components are relatively cheap.
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As been stated before, Great thread!
Plan on following this as I get started with my kit.
Not sure about other locations but I had just picked up 3 of the HBF helemts at Walmart (in Spring lake, NC) in the clearance isle for $15 each. If someone is interested you may be able to find.
Think I will send the wife back there to see if she can grab a 4th and then, at a minimum, build these for my Girls.
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I'm working on the helmet together with my son, a nice mother-son project :-) The neighbors are just looking funny at us...
I am a noob when it comes to resin... I put it on the inside, with a matte, but it is still a bit sticky. Perhaps I got the ratio wrong. Can I do a second layer of resin and put a bit more hardener in this time? Or just do a layer of bondo?
Thanks for any help...
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Falin? I don't see the necessity of fiberglassing or using resin inside the dome. For this or the two-piece. I got pretty darn good results with a good plastic repair epoxy (for the actual dome join line), 1mm sintra super-glued to the inside (cyanoacrylate adheres brilliantly to PVC), reinforced inside with two-part plumbers' epoxy putty, and smoothed over on the outside with that and Bondo's Plastic Metal. Much less work and expense, fewer volitile chemicals to work with.
On the flip side, I've handled helmets like these that had been 'glassed inside, and the resin was popping away from the plastic. It doesn't really like to adhere long-term...
Dana's post above reminded me of this.
--Jonah
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Not trying to be a jerk, especially with my first post, but wouldn't it be easier to thin the visor by adding to the top, rather than cutting whole new cheeck pieces and having to mold the extra length to the mandibles? I've come to that point in my build (I've rebuilt the rangefinder to have a targeting reticle and LEDs, and rotate full 90° rotation) and it seems easier to add a strip of sintras to thin the visor. Just wondering guys, I dunno what's acceptable yet. Any comment on that idea?
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The reason that the visor is cut and moved up and the cheeks replaced is the Hasbro is out of all PrOporTiOn ! Its built with kids in mind. If you sit it next to any standard bucket you cant help but think its built for E.T. !
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So the length of the faceplate from the bottom of the visor to the tip of the mandibles is wrong too. Gotya. I was thinking it was only the width of the visor. Didn't think about the overall dimensions changing. Thanks.
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The reason that the visor is cut and moved up and the cheeks replaced is the Hasbro is out of all PrOporTiOn ! Its built with kids in mind. If you sit it next to any standard bucket you cant help but think its built for E.T. !
So where does out of proportion meet custom styled helmet? Our own great Mandalore has a snazzy helmet, as well as other customs like the Juggernaught. I can understand having to change it because of the way it is out of the box, but with the other non-standard helmets out there what's the point? What if what I was going for was a bigger visor, just an example? Going off of looks alone seems pretty subjective, shouldn't the goals be quantifiable? Instead of the visor LOOKS too wide, it's half an inch too wide...
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Even those custom helmets follow a basic proportional layout, the HBF in it's raw form shreds those parameters. A small variance is acceptable, however, the proportions of this bucket are simply not now nor will they ever be approveable. This is a decision made by the powers that be, (one that I agree with) the approveal of the modded HBF was done to give prospective members a low cost alternative to professionally produced helmets, the trade off is the strict regs regarding modification.
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http://mandalorianmercs.org/forum/index.php?topic=30902.0
I knew there was one who didnt cut the visor, But Ori'vod's is a pilot bucket.
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http://mandalorianmercs.org/forum/index.php?topic=30902.0
I knew there was one who didnt cut the visor, But Ori'vod's is a pilot bucket.
Yes, being SO custom that it would not clear CRLs for an initial helmet app. This one actually puts him in a brigade, which you can only join if you have previously been approved with a standard kit.
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But its a cleared bucket right ?
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Orikad worked his in an interesting way. The helmet is so modded and custom and it fits the ideal's of his characters appearance. There is still an asthetic balance and realism to it.
Now, to take the HBF and simply thicken the lower horizontal mandible across the face to the point the horizontal T is the proper width is going to leave that area at least double the proportionate width will look quite wrong.
Another issue is, remember the HBF is a TOY. It wasn't made for high level costuming. It was made as a safety first toy for children. This mod tutorial simply shows the work and cost (unless you get one them on clearance and already have all the tools and supplies in your garage, you may as well buy a resin or fiberglass helmet) involved to make it useable for costuming.
Basically, all the major vestiges that make it a "toy" need to be hidden, removed or altered. There would be nothing more embarassing at an event than to have a kid in a Rubies Fett costume with the HBF and a Nerf N strike come up to you and say "Hey, we have teh same helmet and gun!"
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Well, here is my progress of the helmet so far.
Supply's
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb366/LordRaive/2011-09-24044953.jpg)
Helmet before
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb366/LordRaive/2011-09-30233427.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb366/LordRaive/2011-09-30233440.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb366/LordRaive/2011-09-30233304.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb366/LordRaive/2011-09-30233325.jpg)
30 minutes into it
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb366/LordRaive/2011-10-01011606.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb366/LordRaive/2011-10-01021958.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb366/LordRaive/2011-10-01022010.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb366/LordRaive/2011-10-01031847.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb366/LordRaive/2011-10-01031900.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb366/LordRaive/2011-10-01031920.jpg)
Shorten it abit more
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb366/LordRaive/2011-10-01053820.jpg)
Fiberglass resign& mats
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb366/LordRaive/2011-10-01053749.jpg)
Cheecks & Epoxy
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb366/LordRaive/2011-10-02131321.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb366/LordRaive/2011-10-02131309.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb366/LordRaive/2011-10-02131233.jpg)
And now the Body filler is drying, I did made a video but I have to edit
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great ideas . i guess i have to pic up one of these helmets!
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great ideas . i guess i have to pic up one of these helmets!
They're always for sale for kinda cheap on eBay, it's prettymuch just timing :) Unless your local toy shop is having a christmas sale hehe :P
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So here's my bucket so far, just a little more filling and sanding and I'll be ready for color.
I can't resize the pic on my phone so here's a link.
http://twitpic.com/74eo96
Opinions?
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is any one having issues with the fiber glass stiking to the plastic.... the last i checked fiber glass didnt stick directly to plastic unless an adhesive promoter was used... wich is why i mix all my glass in tupperware bowls cause the remains after drying will just peel right out and leave a clean bowl.... so is the glass thats in the top really holding it together???
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I've had good results with zap-a-gap supper glue and sheet styrene.
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I'm not using anything remotely resembling fiberglass on my mod(s), and they're coming along just fine... *shrug*
--Jonah
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Anything can be used I would assume. I like fiberglass because it is quite strong and durable and I don't trust glues and shims. I didn't have issues with the fiberglass as I heavily sanded the area the glass was going so there was plenty of places for it grab onto and any residue of the mold release agents used were ground away.
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I am currently working on mine as well, and for the inside I used some smooth on Smoothcast 320 liquid plastic that i had left over from casting my Halo M6G. And for the cheeks i used the left over plasic from the plastic waste baskets baught at Walmart to make my armor peices. It's alot more rigid and gives a more sturdier feel IMO.
Now if I can get the pics off My phone and on here it would be great. BRB leme jus do that.
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I just got a hard lesson tonight on my mod. I just posted pix of the resin'd bucket after using Bondo fiberglass resin with cloth. I thought it seemed strong and bonded. There were a couple of cloth strands sticking from under the resin. When I pulled them, I saw that I could easily pull the resin from the plastic. What seemed strong was an illusion. I'm glad I caught it before I bondo'd the outside. I'm not sure what to do to get the front and back bonded on the inside. I am going to experiment with PVC pipe glue and styrene. If the glue bites both the helmet and plastic, it should hold. Any other ideas are appreciated.
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Gep, good meeting you this weekend.
I used the fibreglas webbing on the interior seem. I roughed the surface with 36 grit and it seemed to work (it's still holding).
I am not surprised that many adhesives are not working, the plastic used for this helmet is tough for customizing.
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Any thoughts anyone? I need to begin with my paint but I wanted a professional opinion before I went ahead with anything more permanent.
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I probably did not rough mine up enough, but I'm a little concerned that the fg did not even adhere where I ground away the screw mounts. That area was really roughed up. I would've bet money I had a good joint, but the whole thing peeled right off.
Before
(http://www.dz7939.com/pix/m15.jpg)
After - FAIL
(http://www.dz7939.com/pix/m17.jpg)
I am going to try Peregrinus' method of epoxy putty, but with styrene or sign material. It's a tough call. This joint might have held if not stressed too much. Once the peel started, it really went fast. I may even drill some anchor hole to add additional strength.
I'm really bummed after this failure.
K'raam Xrati, it was great meeting you and the rest of the Mandos Saturday! One of you guys warned me about this adhesion issue. I should've paid more attention.
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I did some adhesion tests today. So far, nothing really seems to stick well to this plastic. My tests involved trying to stick sign material (styrene) to the HBF material, since I am going to try to strengthen the joint with strips of a For Sale sign
PVC pipe cement - sticks great to styrene, but pulls right off HBF
Kwik Plastic 2 part putty - partial adhesion to both, but not very strong
model cement - great on styrene, no bite into HBF
Gorilla Glue - great on styrene, no bite into HBF
JB Weld - great on styrene, no bite into HBF
I will likely sand with wire brush or 30'ish grit and try the liquid resin again.
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I had good results with styrene and zap-a-gap super glue. That's the plastic 2-part epoxy on the side.
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6240/6287001608_a6cd84ebac.jpg)
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Make sure you've given it a nice surface to adhere to. I use 220 grit, outside and in. These helmets are PVC, but PVC cement is meant for pipefitting applications and doesn't work as well for these sorts of joins. I use a multiplastic plastic repair epoxy (which has just a little give to it) to join the front of the dome to the back, and the brow trim and back skirt to the dome. I use sintra for reinforcement because it's also PVC. And independent tests have found the best adhesive for PVC to PVC (for non-pipefitting) is your good old cyanoacrylate (CA) super glue. Heck, when using it to join sintra to sintra, the material will give before the joint does.
I backed off the inside of the dome join with sintra strips, and used the two-part grey plumbers' epoxy putty (not the blue-and-yellow or blue-and-white or other kinds of two-part putties) to blend the edges of those into the helmet interior, and also to reinforce the back-skirt-to-dome join. It's sticking to the PVC of the helmet just great.
Those are probably the two biggest factors -- surface preparation and the right adhesives. Also, make sure everything's washed and wiped down before slapping any of this stuff on or you run a risk of oils or dust interfering.
Don't be afraid to make mistakes. That's how we learn.
--Jonah
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So I must be learning ALOT!!!!
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So I must be learning ALOT!!!!
Been there, done that. :D I've been building models since I was in second grade or so. Near as I can recall, I no longer have ANY of the models I built up through high school (with the exception of most of my Marines' tanks for 40K, but I started playing that in 11th grade, so...).
--Jonah
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I've gotten past my adhesion issues (I think) by overengineering the joint.
I've got a question about the T-Visor frame. Does everyone dremel out the high parts so the visor shade sits flush all the way around the frame or do they leave it 'as is' and have the gap of about 1/8"
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I left a gap for ventalation.
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I made the whole visor frame outline 3mm thick. For my first attempt, I'm using the original visor that came with it, trimmed and darkened. But that's only possible because I mande the vertical part of the 'T' slightly too narrow. Probably going to go with a T-visor visor for my second pass...
--Jonah
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These helmets are currently on sale for $24 in Australia, picked myself up a couple tonight. Cant wait to start work on them :)
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I have been working on mine for a bit. And stopped, because I want the right % window tint, for the lens/visor...5% looked alright...but, then I don't want to be in the dark...so to speak. Anybody? "EDIT" After advice from Ralin, I picked up some 5% professional tint...So, here we go! I'll keep ya all updated!
(http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo342/charlienecro/Bucketvisorunaltered.jpg)
(http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo342/charlienecro/Bucketalteredlens.jpg)
(http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo342/charlienecro/Bucketalteredtuskvisor.jpg)
(http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo342/charlienecro/Bucketalteredvisorlensandtusks.jpg)
(http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo342/charlienecro/bucketinside.jpg)
(http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo342/charlienecro/bucketsideplugs.jpg)
(http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo342/charlienecro/morebucketprogress.jpg)
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Check your local TJ Maxx for the HBF. They are marked down to $20 here in Ohio. Marshalls, Ross and/or Bealls may also be a good source.
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Here In Stuart FL Marshall's and TJMAXX has the HBF marked down to 10.00 :)
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Thanks for the heads-up. It might be time to buy more.
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Just for the sake of having one, I'll have to check my stores here.
dAVid.
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I am so happy to have found this thread. I am a new Mando Costumer, and I have three of these helmets in case (read WHEN) I screw up the first one. That being said, your advice is VERY helpful. What did you do for the interior fitting. did you retain the included construction helmet style straps?
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The helmet was actually raffled off. Im not sure what the new owner did, the straps were thrown away. Typically, I fit mine with foam padding.
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Rant:::
If you post pictures of your HBF build, do you really find it neccessary to post a picture of the helmet in the box? We all know what it looks like unmodified. ;D ;)
:::end rant
Just a little LOL moment for the evening.
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Alright, I have some questions with regards to the fiberglass resin. I've applied it to the inside of the dome, and the interior of my rebuilt face. My question is: How do I know how much is enough? The For Sale sign cheeks are still bendy, but they have been coated with the resin. All the seams have been reinforced, but did I use enough?
Here are some shots of the interior.
(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj608/Zorim-Dran/domeglassed.jpg)
(http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj608/Zorim-Dran/domebackglassed.jpg)
If I have indeed not used enough, can I simply apply more on top of what is already there? Really need some opinions here, I don't want to start Bondo until I know this isn't going to come apart on me.
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Looks like you used plenty but, you didn't use any fiberglass matting or tape to reenforce it. That is why it seems weak, because it is.
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Mmm, you've just resined the inside, to fiberglass you need to wet out some mat, tape or cloth, it hardens up and helps the bond.
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Back to the second part of the question, then: Can I do more resin and some fibercloth over the top of the resin that's already there?
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Back to the second part of the question, then: Can I do more resin and some fibercloth over the top of the resin that's already there?
Yup 8)
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Stupid question: how did you get the eye part of the vizer so narrow? that just completely befuddles me. sorry for the stupid question
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Yer beffudlin me with your big long forum name :P Just have a good look through the full thread buddy ;)
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Just the way I cut it!
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Yer beffudlin me with your big long forum name :P Just have a good look through the full thread buddy ;)
We could always refer to him as C3D or CD3
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WOW, that's one hell of a toy helmet conversion! Good ol "for sale" signs, been there done that. :D
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:) I love this, should have posted sooner, I am using this process as well, My bucket is an HBF conversion, http://mandalorianmercs.org/forum/index.php?topic=48700.0
Thank you and awesome work.
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My kit just got official with my HBF mod. Thanks for a great tutorial and info exchange while I worked on it.
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Thanks for the tutorial! Just picked up a pair at an estate sale for 5$ each, so, I'm going to give this a go. One for me, one for my twin.
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BTW Here is my almost finished bucket...
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8014/6999763074_8e9ba94eb9_z.jpg)
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Do you guys know if i converted the HBF, would it fit on someone wearing glasses?
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That's dependant on the size of your head, the size of your glasses and the indentation of the cheeks. No way to really say. Some can, some can't.
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Update on my bucket...
(http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo342/charlienecro/327.jpg)
(http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo342/charlienecro/328.jpg)
(http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo342/charlienecro/330.jpg)
(http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo342/charlienecro/332.jpg)
(http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo342/charlienecro/334.jpg)
(http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo342/charlienecro/336.jpg)
(http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo342/charlienecro/338.jpg)
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So I'm almost ready to start putting my bucket back together but have never worked with fiberglass.... Is the fiberglass resin the same as regular fiberglass and do you guys think epoxy or bondo could do the job of the fiberglass?
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Fiberglass resin is simply the " wet" part of fiberglass. It's a 2 part resin mixture. The "glass" part is the matting or the tape used. Together they make fiberglass.
The reason I used fiberglass initially on the build was, it has reasonable adhesive qualities but mainly for strength along the seam. I wanted the seams attached in a method that wasnt going to split in the bondo sanding process or even from trooping.
The seam could be glued easily with an E-6000 or Loctite but, then there is no support along the seams. I personally wouldnt back the seam with epoxy or Bondo for a variety of reasons. If you didn't want to back it with fiberglass, using a 2-3" wide strip of sturdy plastic glued to the inside of the seam would probably be the next best option.
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Falin, you've seen my build. I used no fiberglass on my bucket. 1mm Sintra, plumbers' two-part epoxy putty, and superglue (typical cyanoacrylate). Since the sintra and helmet are both PVC, and CA glue is the best binding agent for that. I used the putty for shaping and, in places, additional support. The raw edges of the main helmet seams got Ace Hardware's store-brand of plastic-repair two-part epoxy. Then I smoothed off the outsides of the seams with Bondo's Plastic Metal. I've dropped it on the concrete floor where I'm working a few times (mostly accidentally), and it didn't even notice. Just bounced.
--Jonah
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Super glue worked for you? I had no luck.
That being said, I have used all other forms of bonding for my builds. :rolleyes: (all except boogers)
BTW, I started another build tonight. Kinda addictive.
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Hey guys, just thought Id pop in here to show off the progress on my HBF. On a whim I started looking for helmets to build and saw the HBF as an opportunity to do something a little unique. anyway, so here's my concept. never mind the range finder being on the wrong side
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/animerb/mandohelm23.jpg)
I made a fiberglass shell on top of the clear visor to create my visor bars from. glued them in place with a strong epoxy called Pliogrip. I'm currently in the process of doing the body work on the added pieces. I think I need to get a hold of some adhesion promoter and get a good coat of primer on it before I continue. after i get the face plate done i'll glue or fiberglass the halves together and start working on the crest.
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/animerb/mandoarmor12.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/animerb/mandohelm13.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/animerb/mandohelm19.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/animerb/mandohelm22.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/animerb/mandohelm24.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/animerb/mandohelm25.jpg)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/animerb/mandohelm26.jpg)
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Thats cool! What era does that fit?
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Super glue worked for you? I had no luck.
Here's my WIP thread (http://mandalorianmercs.org/forum/index.php?topic=35489). All the gluing I did in the first post was the two-part plastic-repair epoxy (look for something besides PVC cement that works on PVC and has at least a little give once it's cured). All the sintra bits you see in my follow-up posts are what I used superglue with. Then I puttied over the edges to help secure the sintra to the rest of the helmet. Superglue is a strong bond, but brittle. It needs to only be in places that won't flex, and the epoxy putty helps ensure that needed rigidity, so they end up reinforcing each other.
--Jonah
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Thats cool! What era does that fit?
Modern I guess? I really don't know as I wasn't planning on getting it approved or anything. just a fun little project for myself. I did sketch up some armor to go with it. I might get that far eventually. It's basically a mix of mando and clone armor.
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/animerb/mandoarmor3.jpg)
So I'm almost ready to start putting my bucket back together but have never worked with fiberglass.... Is the fiberglass resin the same as regular fiberglass and do you guys think epoxy or bondo could do the job of the fiberglass?
Fiberglass is fiberglass is fiberglass. it's all the same stuff. a resin mixed with a hardener, infused into a mat or weave of glass fibers. pretty simple stuff. there's several ways of producing products with fiberglass but the materials don't really change.
as for joining the two pieces with bondo, don't. don't even attempt. It is notoriously brittle. It can withstand quite a bit, but its not meant to hold anything together. it's just a filler. of course bondo is just a trade name. a bunch of companies make the stuff and call it "Body filler". 3M, bondo's parent company, actually makes filler that isn't branded as bondo. There's also fiberglass reinforced body fillers available. even them I wouldn't try.
you're best bet is probably going to be some form of epoxy or fiberglass. and if you go with epoxy, try to get some fiberglass mesh tape to put in it to make it stronger. and make sure to rough up the surface so it has something to bite and hold onto. I'll probably grind mine with a small 36 grit roloc grinder before i put mine together.
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Modern I guess? I really don't know as I wasn't planning on getting it approved or anything.
Well why not? Why not put in the effort to make something really awesome? Because that looks really awesome!
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ARGH. I hate working with plastic. I put some "Bulldog" adhesion promoter on my face plate and then shot primer on it. came back after a while and found that it had bubbled. it was covered bubbles and it all peeled off with great ease. I don't think I gave the bulldog enough time to gas off. that and i put too many coats of primer on. the only places it stuck worth a damn was on the cheeks that I had made out of polystyrene. but that's not surprising since styrene reacts with the solvent in the primer and actually melts the top surface. however I did get bubbles on them as well. so now I've got to figure out how to scrape or grind it off before I can try again.
i'm thinking I'll sand the plastic a bit better. i just used scrotch brite since sanding plastic tends to make it fuzz up. ill do it anyway though. and give the bulldog more time before I prime.
Remember kids, patients!
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/animerb/mandohelm27.jpg)
it did look good with a uniform color on it. :)
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booya! peeled, scraped, grinded, did more body work to the cheeks, sanded, cleaned, and primed. and this time its seems to have stuck.
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/animerb/mandohelm28.jpg)
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When you get this done, with your costume, suit up, shave your eyebrows off and spirit gum a set of prop eyes on your brows. It will totally trip people out!
This is actually a very interesting mod idea for the HBF. It MAY well be successful when it's done... as long as all the seams etc. are filled and smoothed.
While this doesn't eliminate the "squished" face issue and more or less indirectly addressed the gianormous visor, it is going to change the profile and look of the face of the helmet enough it may be good to go.
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haha four eyes would be pretty trippy. my friends said of my concept "....but you're blocking your vision". and I had to insist that its style that counts, not seeing where you're going. :P I don't suppose there have ever been any aqualish (http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Aqualish) mandos, have there? :)
by squashed face, you mean the cheeks and mandibles are too short? it doesn't really bother me so much. the gianormous visor was the biggest problem with the helmet, I feel. And i think i came up with a pretty good solution for keeping the same size while breaking up the shape and making it look sleeker. and in the end my only real goal is to make something unique. something that i like the look of. and keep that basic mando look.
anyway, thanks for the encouragement. might start my own WIP thread in time. I'll keep yall posted.
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Reminds me of a cross between Tes Vevec and Isaac Clarke. Looks totally badshebs, can't wait to see that thing painted up.
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I came across a pic of Tes vevec a couple days after i started drawing up concepts. I was pleased that what I had come up with had a touchstone to a canon helmet. though I was a bit bummed out because I wasn't very original. :P but everything's been done before right? I also at one point was going to do two bars across the upper visor. but felt it looked too much like dead space. plus it was going to mean more fabrication.
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Quick question about filling in the dent. I'm almost done with my hbf mod, but am not going for merc membership for now (family and financial issues). In light of that, I decided to make it a fett helmet with dent intact. If I decide in the future to try to join the mercs, will t be possible to fill the dent and just paint over that section, or will it require repainting the entire helmet?
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It would likely require the whole dome be repainted but not likely the whole helmet.
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Im nevouse that this might be beyond my skill level but i am going to try this!
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Reminds me of a cross between Tes Vevec and Isaac Clarke. Looks totally badshebs, can't wait to see that thing painted up.
If you made it silver, it could be a thomas bangalter/mandalorian helmet
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started my HBF mod. let me know what you think..
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/581843_10200876765905247_875041008_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/544555_10200876766185254_342252253_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/580726_10200876766105252_989853124_n.jpg)
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kandosii!