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 Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin

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KaylinSilverfurr


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Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« on: May 22, 2017, 11:47 AM »
Hello folks!

So, already talked to folks about my design sketches, and know where I have to modify/ edit to be able to meet regs. That said, the soft parts are in progress. I managed to find a set of black scrubs yesterday that fit like a dream, as I want a two piece suit to make it easier to get into and out of for bio-breaks. I had a friend help me with some pattern drafting for a vest that I'm making out of black canvas, and lined with some left over shantung I had from another project. I need to add sleeves and a neck seal, which I don't want to incorporate into my vest just in case I get too hot. I want something I can remove quickly if necessary.

As per my rough sketch, I plan on making a pair of spats, a hooded cape and an obi-style soft belt under a Sam Browne style leather belt with a holder for a blaster. That's a side arm though, as I plan to carry a BFG since my plate scheme is leaning towards heavy. My spats, cap and obi/ soft belt will all be a dark grey colour.



The above saran wrap and painter's tape dummy. I find frog tape works the best, but your milage may vary. You can see where I've started to semi-map plate positions and shapes. I haven't done my back plates yet, but I will more than likely NOT do a single pieces. I'm thinking more a segmented style so they can travel easier, and are easier for me to make. Because backplate.  :-\



Pieces from one side cut out. I traced patterns onto some card stock and made some minor revisions and adjustments.



Pattern traced out and seam allowance added. For closure, I plan on making up some velcro tabs on one side in order to close it. I'm not keen on lacing because they're a pain to get into and out of, and I want to be able to handle as much of my kit as I can by myself. I'm have them match the same style as my spats if possible, just to maintain the continuity.

So, that's it for now. I'll add more updates when I have them. :D

~Kaylin

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Mirdala Kyr’am
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KaylinSilverfurr


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #1 on: May 22, 2017, 07:09 PM »
Ah-hah! Already ran into a "snag"...

My shoulder bells for the vest were a little far out and didn't sit right, so I will have to adjust them slightly so that it sits a little better. I will get photos later. Its not that much of an issue per se, as its a minor detail when I'm constantly checking the fit of everything while I make it.

~Kaylin

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Mirdala Kyr’am
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Aria


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #2 on: May 23, 2017, 02:53 AM »
Looks like you're off to a good start. Shoulder bells aren't too hard to adjust, but remember they'll have the weight of the bells on them so they'll be weighed down against your shoulders/arms in the end.

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KaylinSilverfurr


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #3 on: May 23, 2017, 11:24 AM »
Looks like you're off to a good start. Shoulder bells aren't too hard to adjust, but remember they'll have the weight of the bells on them so they'll be weighed down against your shoulders/arms in the end.

Hi Aria!

Nope, they weren't hard to adjust at all actually, just trimmed them at an angle. I did keep in mind that the bells would be on them, but they still needed to be adjusted. While they still have some protrusion, its no where near as pronounced as before. I think I trimmed off about a half and inch dart to in order to get them to sit properly? I also had to adjust my initial pattern on one side being permanently closed (which I can still do, I just have to modify my pattern slightly.

As an aside, today is fabric shopping day! *makes sounds only dogs can hear*. I'll be picking up my dark grey for my cloak, soft belt and spats. I'm thinking a twill, as I want something sturdy looking, but we will see what I can find. Sometimes the bargain bin is a treasure trove of discounted fabrics after all, and if I find a colour I like but not in the stiffness, I can always add backing to it with interfacing.

Then to grab some regular leather belts (Bargain centre is a good source for cheap leather belts) so I can make a Sam Browne style belt and my holster attachment. I have some left over brown leather from some projects so I can make a few pouches, but I also plan to have "gas canisters" on my belt as well. If I have black leather (I might even have some purple), then so much the better.

~Kaylin

« Last Edit: May 29, 2017, 07:11 PM by Thaxos » Logged
Mirdala Kyr’am
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KaylinSilverfurr


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #4 on: May 23, 2017, 11:07 PM »
*waves*


So....uhm...fabric shopping for soft parts. I really, really should not be left to my own devices when it comes to being in a fabric store.

I found  few medium greys that had caught my attention, but nothing that I wanted to actually commit to. Until I found....


A purple-grey, summer weight corduroy that has a lovely texture. I plan to make my spats, cape and soft belt from this material.

I raced home so that I could finish my vest (huzzah!) and get my pockets of my scrubs sewn shut too. Just...pardon the derp expression. The sides actually close with four buttons, because I wanted to carry over the visual from my spats as well, since they'll be closing with buttons too.


Granted, its a lot of black on black on...well, you get the idea. ;)

I've started my spats design as well, and was actually kinda glad to put my old combat boots to use once more. They haven't seen action since I was in, and that was over fifteen years ago. It felt good to lace them up again....only to cover them with saran wrap and painter's tape. :D



So...movin' right along?

~Kaylin

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Mirdala Kyr’am
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Aria


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #5 on: May 24, 2017, 02:06 AM »
I do really like that color you found. Is it heavy? While you want things to be sturdy, having the fabrics breath is also important in these kits.

« Last Edit: May 29, 2017, 07:10 PM by Thaxos » Logged
The Aria Pics
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KaylinSilverfurr


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #6 on: May 26, 2017, 12:23 PM »
I do really like that color you found. Is it heavy? While you want things to be sturdy, having the fabrics breath is also important in these kits.

Its summer weight corduroy actually, so its not too heavy, but still has enough weight to it for stability and drape. I like the texture on it too. Its also cotton, so its far more breathable than synthetic fabrics. I tend to gravitate towards natural fabrics anyway for that reason, as well that while synthetics can look fantastic and have a great colour pay off, being a hot sweaty mess in them in the unfortunate drawback. I also find natural fabrics tend to "weather" a little more authentically than synthetics too.

I ended up adjusting the neck line so it sits a little flatter against my chest as well, mainly because it was sticking out and it was bothering me. It sits flatter now, and I'll get photos of me in the adjusted vest to send to my Ruus'alor for approval before I begin weathering.

~Kaylin

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Mirdala Kyr’am
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Aria


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #7 on: May 27, 2017, 02:47 AM »
Yes, I agree. Natural fabrics seem to weather better - I suspect it has to do with the actual fibers not being a synthetic mixture of things. They seem to hang better as well. :)

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KaylinSilverfurr


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #8 on: May 28, 2017, 10:11 PM »
Yes, I agree. Natural fabrics seem to weather better - I suspect it has to do with the actual fibers not being a synthetic mixture of things. They seem to hang better as well. :)

Agreed. There's not this tangled flying spaghetti monster of a frayed and unravelled mess that you get with synthetics. Natural fibres just seem to work better over-all I think, though I can see the advantage of some types for patterns.

I'm also having to adjust my vest again one more time, because the neckline still isn't really sitting where I want it to. Given that I'm already working on a set of spats in an almost WW1 style, I figured to look at uniforms from the same era to see if there were other elements I could incorporate. I've found a lot of the high neck collars that look really smart, and with appropriate weathering can really lean towards a very gritty sort of feel to them. I found this in particular that I can use in terms of the collar, but the opening would be to the back instead with velcro closing. That way I can keep much of the work I've already done and not have wasted a bunch of time trying to fix things.


I obviously wouldn't have rank insignia or pins on the collar like the above, but the style and cut would lend itself well to a sleeveless vest and can even work without the plates as well. I like this idea of being in a casual mode, but if you have to get ready for a fight quick you can slap on the plates and be good to go.

As far as other elements for the cloak and what not, there is historical context for the use of cloaks in WW1 and 2, mostly amongst the Russian/ Cossacks.



This hood is a fantastic example of what I want to do in terms of attaching it at the shoulders, rather than clasping it at the front.

I'm also trying not to go too formal with it though, lest I look more like an Imperial Officer trying to masquerade as a Mando. :P Its about trying to find a balance between the historical and the fantastical, as well as keeping in line with established canon too. Adding my longer sleeves too can also be in the similar fitted style of the time, but without the fancy cuff work that's usually done.
:)

~Kaylin

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Mirdala Kyr’am
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Thorfastr Tyr


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #9 on: May 28, 2017, 11:07 PM »
This is great, I'm excited about your ideas!

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Sh'Sou HolDa


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #10 on: May 29, 2017, 12:35 PM »
Taking real world military uniforms into consideration for a kit build and soft parts is a great idea. Not only does it give a sense of authentication, it also translates into the SW universe perfectly.

Your dedication to detail in this aspect alone is nothing short of inspiring. Well done!

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KaylinSilverfurr


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #11 on: May 30, 2017, 02:43 PM »
Thank you both Sh'Sou and Thorfastr!

I'm sorry for the constant pic spam in the other thread. I was going to post some WIP of my spats, but then realized that 8 photos at 800X600 size would make a really ungodly long post.... instead, I will provide links and write up some small details about the process.

http://i.imgur.com/UF1jCa1.jpg
So this is after cutting out the saran wrap and painter's tape off my boot and leg and getting a pattern worked up onto bristol board. Its that summer weight corduroy which has been reinforced with heavy fusable interfacing to make it stiff and give it the necessary stability for being spats. They won't stand on their own, but they're pretty stiff yeah.

http://imgur.com/IDpi1ao
With all the front and back sides attached and top stitched the seams to make sure they lie flat and look nice, but also so they don't fray. Granted, the interfacing also helps with that too. After that, I stay stitched around the edges for two reasons. One was to make sure that I had a guide for hemming, two was to reinforce high tension areas, like where the elastic under the boot will be, and the edges where the opening is.

http://i.imgur.com/dL7h6as.jpg
For my closures, I wanted at least 8 button closures that run up the length of the leg, so I had to draft a pattern that not only fit the button I had, but would also allow for me to have at least 8 of them in a row and not obscure the opening too much.

http://i.imgur.com/GA2ANfz.jpg
Positioning for the buttons and the closures.

http://i.imgur.com/1HT0pt0.jpg
Next, cutting them out in both my fabric and the heavy interfacing. I was short one because I ran out of interfacing though, so I had to wait until I could get to the fabric store to finish off the last one.

http://i.imgur.com/hwg7Tzs.jpg
By this point, I was getting kind of sick of dealing with these things. I also sewed in the button openings, folded over the seam allowance, and then top stitched. This was just after getting all the interfacing ironed on.

http://i.imgur.com/r90skyu.jpg
Once I got all 16 of the tabs finished, I did a quick placement to make sure I liked the look and how things were positioned.

http://i.imgur.com/9S6EG0V.jpg
With the tabs in place, pinned and ready for sewing down, I've also positioned the elastic that will hook under the boot.

~Kaylin

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Mirdala Kyr’am
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KaylinSilverfurr


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #12 on: Jun 03, 2017, 01:17 AM »
*Makes T-Rex sounds.*

Alright, I will be remaking my vest. Same material, and roughly the same pattern, but I think I know where I need to adjust the fitting to make it work, as well as toggle with the neckline in order to make the necessary high neck collar. It had gotten to a point where I just could not continue to fiddle with it and tinker, so I'm actually better off starting fresh.

The spats are finished, and I love the way they look. I can hardly wait to start distressing and weathering them. No photos this time, but hopefully I'll get some WIP's done as I have a long day of costume ahead of me tomorrow.

*grumbles* ....stupid vest.....

~Kaylin

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Mirdala Kyr’am
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KaylinSilverfurr


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #13 on: Jun 04, 2017, 11:03 PM »
Holy balls.

THAT was ... *sighs*

So, my first vest was a bit of an issue. I couldn't get the neck line sorted out, even less so when I wanted to add the high neck to it. So I pillaged it for parts (The shoulder caps and buttons) and began a-new, using my dress form and throwing a sheet over it to make a pattern for my vest. I figured it was a shot in the dark, and that the worst that was going to happen was that I was going to mess it up again and I was going to pitch a fit at it.

Guys....

It WORKED. I am both surprised and overjoyed that it did, because WOW. What a difference.

So, after numerous times of pinning and cutting the sheet to where I wanted it, I traced the sheet onto some cheap artists paper and added the seam allowances where necessary.


Costuming is also srs biznis with the local clan, so I had some help from the Alor'ad and his wife. I did most of the work mind you, they just kept me on target.


So I got my fabric cut out with the revamped patterns, keeping the sides closed this time and adding a velcro opening in the back.


Having pillaged my shoulder base from my previous attempt, I got them sewn on. I was actually happy with them, so I decided to keep them. I had to pull off the thread and some of the fabric from the hack job to get it off the other vest, but that was taken care of pretty quickly.


Keeping with the same tab theme as my spats (because I like to keep continuity, yo.), I closed the front of my high neck collar with a dual button tab. Its permanently closed in the front, but the back closes with snaps so I can open it to breathe if necessary.


I also carried the same theme to the sides as well. Purely decorative mind you, but I want to keep the theme through the entire kit, and have those little decorative elements when not wearing the plates. Eventually I got them all attached and eventually got to...

THIS.


I am WAY happier with how this fits and looks. No, these aren't my flight suit pants. They're just a pair of linen pants I have. Now I can start to work on my soft belt, and my Sam Browne belt and pouches, and I should be set for weathering.

~Kaylin

« Last Edit: Jun 04, 2017, 11:11 PM by KaylinSilverfurr » Logged
Mirdala Kyr’am
Alor'ad- Vhetin'Ade Clan; June 2022- Present
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OM #1899

Sh'Sou HolDa


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #14 on: Jun 07, 2017, 03:46 PM »
Most of us at one point or another have vest issues. I went through two before I finally got one done that fit properly and was still easy to get in and out of with armor snapped to it. I'm glad to see you not giving in and defeating the vest monster!

Armor weapons and accessories will be cakewalk for you after this!  And great thread for new folk for certain! Hell I learned a few things by visiting this... :)

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KaylinSilverfurr


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #15 on: Jun 07, 2017, 06:56 PM »
Most of us at one point or another have vest issues. I went through two before I finally got one done that fit properly and was still easy to get in and out of with armor snapped to it. I'm glad to see you not giving in and defeating the vest monster!

Armor weapons and accessories will be cakewalk for you after this!  And great thread for new folk for certain! Hell I learned a few things by visiting this... :)

Thank dude. Not sure what you've learned in terms of costuming aside from listening to me screech like a banshee in frustration at that stupid vest. Still, I'm glad things have worked out as they have.

Next up, Sam Browne belt and long sleeves!

~Kaylin

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Mirdala Kyr’am
Alor'ad- Vhetin'Ade Clan; June 2022- Present
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KaylinSilverfurr


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #16 on: Jun 09, 2017, 02:08 PM »
Howdy folks...

When we last left our fearless Mando, I'd just finished working on the vest, and was about to start the cape, belts and other shenanigans.

**Warning: This post will probably be picture heavy.**


Here's my soft belt in progress. I deliberately left the edges unheeded at the top and bottom should I could fray them with a sandpaper block or against some concrete. Makes a HUGE mess though. Stupid corduroy. I forgot to get other shots of the belt in progress sadly. The good thing about this belt as I can easily switch the tabs and buttons to the back if they're not allowed in the front. I like how they look in the front, but if they're not regs, then no big deal.


For weathering, I wanted to try tea staining to see how it would turn out. Completely forgetting my colour theory from art class, I did not realize that the tea stain would not make the fabric look THAT old and dingy (because brown and purple semi-neutralize one another). I want to retain some of that lovely heather purple, so I figure I might only be doing tea staining around the frayed edges. This was after only 20 minutes on test fabric with 4 tea bags and boiling water. I may cut it back to three tea bags in a bathtub of really hot tap water.


This is the ONLY shot of my in-progress Sam Browne belt I got sadly. Leatherworking and riveting is sort of a two handed job.


The completed Sam Browne belt on my dress form with the other soft belt.

Now I know what you're thinking....
"Vod! That belt needs some POUCHES!"

I'm already on it.


Stoned oil side in black, with pattern already made. I prefer stoned oil leather because it has that slight look of distress already, and the more you work with it, the more weathered it starts to look. Its also thin enough that I can push two layers of it through my Kenmore sewing machine and a simple leather needle.


Ta-da! One belt pouch made. I snap closed them, and they're big enough to fit my phone, as well as an assortment of other odds and ends. I will be lacing over the edges with some black artificial sinew (nylon) to reinforce the edges as well as add some visual element to the bag beyond the snap.


Here's what two looks like. I'm making a third, and hopefully that'll be enough. I also have to make a holder for my side-arm, which will go on the same side as where the Sam Browne belt connects.... because that's what the strap is for, actually. Is re-distributing the weight of a sabre/ sword.

So next up will be making long sleeves to go under my scrub top, and then getting dressed in my soft kit to get photos for my clan Ruus'alor. Once I get the OK from him.... WEATHERING! which I'm so very excited for.

~Kaylin

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Mirdala Kyr’am
Alor'ad- Vhetin'Ade Clan; June 2022- Present
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KaylinSilverfurr


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #17 on: Jun 18, 2017, 11:16 AM »
Howdy folks!



Huzzah! Ruus'alor approves of the soft parts! I get to move onto weathering! I may pick up a cutting wheel later today to help with some of the un-ever tattering for the cloak edges, because using my tailoring shears is murder on my hands and wrists. Then to tea staining, crispifying the edges, paint additions, dust, eyeshadows.....

Can I say how excited I am to effectively abuse all the hard work I've done on my cloth and leather bits until now? There's going to be a level of satisfaction of roughing up my vest, given the problems I had with it. ;)

I've also traced out my plates onto some card stock and will be taping them for placement before transferring them to the Sintra.

~Kaylin

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Mirdala Kyr’am
Alor'ad- Vhetin'Ade Clan; June 2022- Present
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KaylinSilverfurr


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Re: Soft Parts WIP for Kaylin
« Reply #18 on: Jun 20, 2017, 04:37 PM »
IT HAS BEGUN!

Weathering that is.

I've been having so much fun trying to find creative ways to age, weather, beat down and make my stuff look really manly and grimy. I took some Leather dye in USMC black and mixed it with water into a spray bottle, and got the edges and stuff of my purple gear, as well as tea stained in places. I tore up my cloak a little more around the edges, set things on fire, rubbed it around my work shop space....



From the first pass and letting it dry....


Second pass, while still wet.


Close up of some of the fire damage....


Fire damage...something I enjoyed doing WAY too much.

I've also been working on my vest and scrubs as well, getting some eyeshadow into the crevices, using sandpaper blocks to weather along seams and such. :) Lots of fun! I should be able to start my plate placements soon! Yay!

~Kaylin

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