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 Dresdon Acacin Mk6.3 "In Retribution" THE MOST METAL.

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Dresdon Acacin


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  • 3918
  • Do it right the first time or don't do it at all.
  • Awards 11+ Invasion Report Appearances Ground Pounder - Official Member with the most recorded invasions Award for 10 official invasions. Shock Infantry Brigade Member
Re: Dresdon Acacin Mk6.3 "In Retribution" THE MOST METAL.
« Reply #765 on: Today at 12:24 AM »
Sub-update part3 which is not tripleposting because if i put these all in one post I would literally crash the forum. Its happened before, Thaxos and I have an understanding.

lil adition to the previous post: I found a pic of the hinges welded to the back of my greaves... imgur doesn't post everything in order.


Now. ONWARD.


The boots I mainly repainted and cleaned the sand out of, but I also rebend the heel plates to make them a bit more comfortable. reason for repaint is 1) less blackwash in this livery, and 2) Im using a differant shade of grey now. Sand from MercsCon:


some pics before I rip em apart. Most of the boots are made of 1/8" stainless steel because 1) the old aluminum ones wore down to VERY sharp edges, and 2) it makes a special kind of thud when i walk when there is MASS.




You see what fun times you can have if you simply apply red loctite to everything?


my super dull kickplates/toe spikes


After ripping apart the boots I had to torch the spikes to get them out because red loctite.


The new spikes are stainless steel Hilti fasteners, believe they are a type of powder actuated fastener they WERNT cheap(Im talkin' like $3.75 a piece)

Tapping the kick plates in M8x1.25


I find WD40 works quite well as cutting fluid on aluminum.


Stripped and stamped, ready for paint.



Yes. The scary, CANON, boot spikes are dull/


Toe caps arnt coming off without doing serious boot damage because loctite, so I stripped em on the boots and repainted them that way.



Note above... I put foam under the laces as padding for my feet, i got that dumb foot condition where their always sore. and hereditary flat feet so im just a big fun bundle of problems.

New fasteners for mounted the stretched heel plates... turning carriage bolts into elevator bolts.


And boots are reassembled




If you understand this gif we can be friends... the gif in question is the segway into the next part of the rebuild: the new pauldrons.


The old pauldrons were small and thin, they were prone to suffering from abrasion sharpening them and potentially causing injury to people, which I'm told is even a bad thing. So the new ones are a bit bigger, because when I first made them i was smaller, so think of it as scaling them to current Dresdon. In addition, Ive been saving some damn fine greeblies for this. Parts for the exterior and the pivoting mechanism.

Heres how the old stuff went together







In PLASMA we trust. Awh yea,,, that thiccc stuff








Welding the collar layers in addition to carriage bolts, mainly because alignment is a PIA and the middle run of fasteners will hold the leather joining the chest to the collar, so when i go to attach it i don't want it coming apart.




NEW pivoting mechanism. All stainless steel, ofcourse. The pauldrons are tensioned against a conical stainless steel spring. with the spring being conical it allows it greating side to side movement so it doesn't just rotate on a fixed axis it can also pivot up to 15* front to back for greater mobility. I probably mentioned it earlier, but now I'm an actual card carrying certified welder. So I even passivate my stainless steel welds.







For those who noticed the mechanisms go from dirty welds to bright silver... I passivate my welds on stainless steel using a strong Nitric Acid paste, you'll see more of it later on. the purpose of this is to restore the chromium oxide layer on the surface of the metal that gives stainless steel its corrosion resistance. It works on heat discoloured stainless steel but not if you melt through the other side and get the knobby blobs, those are riddled with carbide precipitates and are brittle, and lack corrosion resistance. need to grind those out when that happens.

Now for assembling the pauldrons. a front, back, and top same as the old ones, weld together and blend the weld to form the hard angles on the top.







Original super-heavy tank:


You may now refer to me as MR WIDE class super-heavy tank


Ive been hanging onto these green aluminum greeblies for a few years now, they were a little too big to go on my old pauldrons. I dont know what they are out of, some kind of air flow maybe a blend door on a air compressor. The way the ends on this are designed, it reminds me of how the rotors in a twin screw supercharger/air compressor are set up, like in a Detroit Deisel 6v71 blower. I doubt these are even related to a air compressor of that nature but thats just what it reminds me of.


The mounts are cut from the only small scrap of aluminum angle I had which was big enough. It just barely fits.




one of the ends is threaded in 1/4-20, thats how I managed to hang it up for painting.


New mechanism and assembly. The alrge springs are what keep it so it returns to the set position. Still needs a little tweaking, probably need to bend the back half slightly so its wider and moves more freely when im wearing the suit.



Onto paint...




Burgundy base, then grey middle, then light grey enamel for the designs. Left is the Acacin Armouries crest, right is Shock Infantry brigade.




It says IN RETRIBUTION in Mando'a


Assembled and awaiting blackwash



The torso followed the same process. Take it all apart, resurface it, put new bolts. This time round the bolts are not affixed to the plate before the leather harnessing. the harnessing is secured WITH the bolts to the plates, as in instead of first putting a nut adn bolt on the plate, then a washer and another nut, its just bolt, plate, leather, washer, nut. I also welded shut, and redrilled the bolts on the torso because I had to torch almost every single one to get them removed .  The biceps and middle shoulder layers got the same treatment, in addition to new strapping. The biceps, much like the greaves, got the strapping mounted with 1/4-20 allen drive button head stainless steel machine screws. Once again, so that they are servicable. Also, look how nasty the old leather got after like 5 years of use.









bicep plate:


Bottom layer of abdomin:


After a dozen mockups this is what I decided on for the torso paintjob


Backplate wasnt altered much other than paint. I modified my emergency escape system(the lap belt buckles) to fit in better and be less recognizable. the buckle parts are just chrome plated carbon steel(gross) and a bit too big for where they were mounted, so to get around that I cut them down and welded them to a peice of stainless steel flat bar. Part of surfacing required dissassembly and new fasteners... you know the drill




MORE RED THREADLOCKER

Now for the new buckle assemblies, I welded the old mounting holes shut, got the parts fitted up and I put Stainless flux on the back side of the weldment(since Im too poor for using gas to backshield). Part of the reason its clamped to the welding table is to control the heat input, so as not to cook the plating off the steel buckles. once its gone I can never put as good a coating as the OEM chrome on the buckle.





I wouldnt call these NICE welds. Kept the heat low so i dont completely destroy the chrome plating or make the pieces fold in on themself.


In my defense, heres a weld when I don't have to worry about heat input. Look at that, perfect.


Anyways onto backplate paint.





At some point all that was painted so I started with blackwash... because shock Infantry plenty of blaster damage.




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Dresdon Acacin


    *
  • *
  • *
  • 3918
  • Do it right the first time or don't do it at all.
  • Awards 11+ Invasion Report Appearances Ground Pounder - Official Member with the most recorded invasions Award for 10 official invasions. Shock Infantry Brigade Member
Re: Dresdon Acacin Mk6.3 "In Retribution" THE MOST METAL.
« Reply #766 on: Today at 01:01 AM »
I also put real mounts on the shoulder buckles... once again part of the emrgency dresdon escape from dresdon build in countermeasures.
cut buckle junk out of way to weld on washer...



passivated the welds...




All assembled....


I also took this opportunity to
1)remount the tapered hanger on my spine plate with stainless steel machine screws instead of rivets, and then passivate the welds on it at the same time i was passivating other stuff.









By this point id slept a total of 6 hours in 8 days and had downed half my can of preworkout. After packing stuff up and doing some other rudimentary stuff like mounting strapping and (poorly) cutting bolts, I was almost 2 hours behind schedule so my PO'd handler sat silently, watching me forget crucial components forcing me to make them the day before Celebration in the hotel room.


I didn't have time or small enough fasteners with nuts, but I have the parts for a new chest display illuminated with EL panel, and powered from a belt box with these Amphenol Milspec connectors.



For the most part everything worked as it should, need to tweak some strapping and padding though. greaves need more padding to keep them on straight, and the leather webbing, some of that needs to be replaced. Need to widen my pauldrons a little so they don't jam up, in some pics one of them is sticking out almost horizontal. But for the vast majority it all worked as it should so i guess thats whats important. No, i do not know the new weight. Before the rebuild it was about 170lbs with the weaponry, now idk I reduced weight in some places, increased it in others... its got to be between 170 and 200lbs but Im hoping its not over 180. Wasnt that exhausting to wear tbh, it wore better than it has in a long time. I need to work on the gauntlet pinching though, need to make new bottom shells from 18ga stainless steel the same way i did the greave backs, that way theres less fasteners to push on my wrist, may pad the glove a bit too.






And heres a BEFORE picture.


Zeherfoto took a couple really quality pics but the suit wasn't sitting right in one of them and the other the contrast was cranked up so it just looks... ehh kinda "wrong" to me. Makes it all look much brighter and too buisy. Muted with the blackwash and dullcoat it all works very well but the bronze is the real detail it was aesthetically missing to make it pop and not look like a mass of armour just existing. I realize having something bright like the bronze is NOT tactically advantageous, its not like Im a master of stealth either. I chock it up to me not needing to rely on stealth, because Dresdon.

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