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 WIP - Irys's Helmet

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Irys

WIP - Irys's Helmet
« on: Jan 18, 2020, 03:33 PM »
Kit Table of Contents Thread





I have the funds to purchase my helmet but I'm concerned about sizing.

My husband measured my shoulder width at 18" and everything I've read has suggested the helmet be ~9" wide. We happen to have a Jango 2 Piece which fits the parameters, so I tried that on just to see... (I did not think to do that while the armor templates were on, because of course I didn't).

Am I wrong, or does this sucker still look too big on me?


« Last Edit: Apr 12, 2022, 01:20 PM by Irys » Logged

Grimstuff


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Re: WIP - Irys's Helmet
« Reply #1 on: Jan 18, 2020, 05:37 PM »
Looks a good bit oversized, yeah. Especially if that's with padding already in there.

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Re: WIP - Irys's Helmet
« Reply #2 on: Jan 18, 2020, 08:05 PM »
The half measurement is of your shoulder with armor on. You can plan for larger shoulders to compensate.  I'd say as long as you do that, you'll be ok, but work with your local Ruus'alor and post pics with shoulders to be sure.

Irys

Re: WIP - Irys's Helmet
« Reply #3 on: Jan 18, 2020, 11:30 PM »
Ah, I measured without armor (and without vest), and there's zero padding in that helmet.
So I should be fine ordering a similarly sized helmet then (which is good because it seems that's basically the smallest around that isn't Night Owl or child sized. :P )

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Re: WIP - Irys's Helmet
« Reply #4 on: Jan 21, 2020, 01:59 PM »
I was looking into using a 2 piece Jango helmet too. It says it's 10 inches wide online. Have you been able to find a smaller bucket at all? I would need to find one that's a bit smaller than your size (8 to 9 inches wide). Not sure where to start with finding a good quality child sized helmet :laugh:

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Irys

Re: WIP - Irys's Helmet
« Reply #5 on: Jun 11, 2021, 04:33 PM »
Helmet acquired.



April Storm's Drop Bear, Small. 9.25 inches wide (without ear caps), ~9.75 front to back at the base. It looks big still, but without padding and without the armor, I think that's normal. It doesn't FEEL big inside.

I'm still deciding how I'm going to finish it. It's a beautiful print and the print lines are super tight. It might do great with very little filling and a bunch of sanding. I might use XTC-3D resin to fill the lines anyway though. I stripped and sanded a dining room table once and if I can get away with less sanding with my noodle arms, I'm down.  ;)

Kih Kemir - I think there are people in the market/Hawkers row that sell kids sizes. I put off purchasing because I wanted a chance to try a few on and see if I should go smaller (but Covid gave me an excuse to let my anxiety and introversion keep me from meeting my clan. So I finally just bought it). Putting this one on, I don't think I'd go smaller. It would be a bit too tight, especially for electronics. If it's a hair big, I'll just beef up my shoulders.

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Irys

Re: WIP - Irys's Helmet
« Reply #6 on: Apr 12, 2022, 01:19 PM »
After flip flopping between possible finishing techniques, I settled on smoothing the print with XTC-3D resin and aluminum powder (Electroplating literally only lost because the stuff I chose to start with was out of stock. But electroplating something is in my future. It looks exciting.)

This is the helmet right now: 1 coat of resin + aluminum powder, 1 round of hand sanding with 120 grit sandpaper (...I'm going to have a single buff arm...)



Its actually pretty smooth. You're seeing print lines but... also not. The lines are all filled, but the first round of sanding didn't hit all the low points, so I'll need to go over it again. And maybe a third time before I'm happy. Then I'll have at least one more coat of resin + aluminum before I start sanding to polish.



The resin mix has 2 bottles and the ratio of A:B is 2:1. When adding the aluminum (or other metal) powder, it's a 2:1:1 ratio. A:B:Powder

The black acrylic is a must. The resin is clear. The metal powder doesn't dissolve and won't hide the print lines. Tinting the resin will hide the print lines. (I forgot that step for 2 layers on a holocron I'm also working on and I can still see the danged print lines through the resin. And I didn't use quite enough for the 1st layer of the helmet).
Self Leveling: The XTC-3D resin is self leveling and amazing, so long as what you're "painting" it on is flat on the table. The helmet came pre-assembled, so it wasn't really an option.

The top of the dome was like glass and beautiful, but the rest of the print was bumpy because gravity was allowed to pull on the resin before it set. This is because I just made sure everything was covered and then left it to cure.

Further research shows that, after covering the helmet, I should have kept brushing the resin into place until it started to set. It probably wouldn't have needed such aggressive sanding. I still have 1 more coat (at least), so I'll do it right for that one.

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