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 Aran Thall's 3D printed helmet

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Aran Thall's 3D printed helmet
« on: Apr 16, 2020, 07:20 PM »
The file is the free version of April Storm's Drop Bear design. Printed in PLA as I do not have a way to do ABS reliably at the moment. Still have a lot of bondo to put on to get rid of the layer lines. I do not have a printer big enough for the top as I had to scale up to get a better size. (Which I hope is right.)









 

« Last Edit: Apr 30, 2020, 06:41 PM by Aradol » Logged
Re: Aran Thall's 3D printed helmet
« Reply #1 on: Apr 30, 2020, 06:47 PM »
(I read the forum rules and I think this falls within the exceptions of the double post rule, but if I am mistaken, I am sorry, please let me know.)

April 30th update.

I learned that small batches of bondo applied in thin layers, while seemingly unnecessarily slow, infact are the most efficient way to apply it. I made the mistake of trying to cover nearly the entire cheek area on one side and it took forever and a day plus all my sand paper to get it looking right again.



I got lucky I could find the contour edges again. I was worried for a while.

Does anybody have any tips on sanding in the contours and corners of the curved edges?
Also, this is printed in PLA and I know that won't hold up to heat well. How thin of a fiberglass layer can I put on the inside and still maintain structural stability? I want to leave enough room to upgrade the inside with a few electronics and finish it to look in universe.

« Last Edit: Apr 30, 2020, 06:52 PM by Aradol » Logged

Anansi


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Re: Aran Thall's 3D printed helmet
« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2020, 11:11 AM »
It's gonna be really hard to gauge until you put shoulders on but your helmet looks a hair on the large size. That can be fixed though by bulking out said shoulders  so your profile is wider.

To answer your questions, I find hand sanding, while a pain in the backside, is the best way to handle the contours. You can glue sandpaper to popsicle sticks and dowels to get specific contours if you want.
You could probably get away with a single layer of fiberglass since it's only reinforcing a fairly rigid structure but considering the melting point of PLA is north of 300 F, and it'll soften around half of that, you're going to be safe in most situations unless you have a Troop in your car in the Summer.

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Re: Aran Thall's 3D printed helmet
« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2020, 12:57 PM »
It's gonna be really hard to gauge until you put shoulders on but your helmet looks a hair on the large size. That can be fixed though by bulking out said shoulders  so your profile is wider.

To answer your questions, I find hand sanding, while a pain in the backside, is the best way to handle the contours. You can glue sandpaper to popsicle sticks and dowels to get specific contours if you want.
You could probably get away with a single layer of fiberglass since it's only reinforcing a fairly rigid structure but considering the melting point of PLA is north of 300 F, and it'll soften around half of that, you're going to be safe in most situations unless you have a Troop in your car in the Summer.

Thanks for the tips. As for the size I am going to reprint a new helmet as soon as I can. I would need ridiculous looking football pads to make that bucket work.

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