Don't like ads? Help support the Mercs by becoming a Supporter or Auxiliary Member today! (You will need to be logged into the store)
Official Members also get to use the forum ad-free - so kit up and join us!


 Paint question/help

  • 8 Replies
  • 2656 Views

Scout


    *
  • 59
  • Target locked...
Paint question/help
« on: May 31, 2018, 10:19 AM »
Hey all! I've read pretty much all of the posts across the forum new and old and looked at any number of countless tutorials and videos off-site as well, that being said, I wanted to hear from you all directly who have recently painted as I know changes to a product can occur quickly:

>I know that in years past Krylon and other companies have made changes to their formula resulting in some reports of less than adequate paint jobs or issues that I would like to avoid
>I am interested in trying the higher pigmented graffiti art cans, but due to availability and more so the fact that it seems harder to fix a mistake or repaint I am instead wanting to first tackle more base brand paints.

-While much of it is likely due to preference/availability/climate where you live - what are the current go-to paint brands for you all when painting a resin based helmet? (Prime, standard silver metallic coat, base color, top color, accent color layered as such with liquid latex to provide the weathering and finishing it with a clear coat) Just wanting to get some ideas from what people have worked with and seeing if anyone has noticed any recent issues with Krylon/Rust-o-leum and other common brands.

-I have seen many that both swear by adding a protective clear coat whereas others seem strongly pitted against it - thoughts?

-I have also seen it recommended both ways, do you all often clear coat after priming and hitting the bucket with your silver 'metal' layer before adding your actual colors?

-I know armor is most often taken to a matte finish but was wondering what finish you all do for weapons? Thinking about hitting it with a light dry silver dusting after black paint, just wasn't sure what finish. (Mostly PVC/resin parts)?

-Does the paint adhere best if specified for plastic or just any standard aerosol such as the old cover-MAXX/Fusion line from Krylon?

-What all do you recommend for the metallic base layer - seen a number of options regarding the metallic paints and I know there are some that are best kept away from to prevent poor adhesion or orange peel later down the road?

-Do you all prefer paint+primer or just primer?

I know that staying in the same brand is the best but I haven't painted in a few years now and I'm not up to snuff with the most recent changes to any particular brands/formulas/issues that I may encounter. Feel free to leave any tips at all, if nothing else it will hopefully help others here as well. Thanks in advance for all the help and advice! All opinions are welcome as experience can be very different from user to user but I'm just looking for an idea/consensus and making sure there are no big brands to currently avoid.

If you need me to further elaborate on any information above feel free to let me know. Thanks all.

Logged
Scout
Havok-TDH
Graag Elairow

Fenris Claddanna


    *
  • *
  • 767
  • Chaotic Fun
  • Awards Award for 10 official invasions. 15+ clan level invasions 11+ Invasion Report Appearances Clan with the most recorded invasions in 2016/2017 Clan with the largest number of new OM's in 12 months
Re: Paint question/help
« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2018, 11:03 AM »
My go-to right now is Rust-oleum for paints, and then brush-painted acrylic for detail work. I generally go in the following order for painting and weathering: primer(here of late Ive been using grey filler primer, as it seems to adhere better), flat black(for some reason the metallics pop better when put over a black paint layer), silver metallic, matte clear coat, add masking fluid for scraping(I've been using tooth paste for this, but use whatever you're most comfortable using), primary armour colour, re-mask for each additional paint colour you add, fine details, clear coat, weathering washes, then a final matte clear coat to seal everything in and protect the paint work.

I personally clear coat just about everything, as it seals the paint and protects it from scrape damage. I did this with both kits, the first one being normal latex house paint, the second being Rust-oleum spray paint.

For weapons, it depends on the look you want to go for. Mine are metallic black with silver barrels and bronze accents, and I did a light bronze wash on the silver parts to age the metal slightly. The rest of the weathering is mostly grip marks, to show that they might be old, but they are well-cared for. Kind of a nod to the old saying about your weapons are your life. Once I'm finished with the current work to them, they'll be getting a matte clear coat as well to seal the paint.

The adhesion is more going to be determined by how clean your surface is when you start. Most recommend doing a light fine-grit(400+ grit) sanding between paint coats to give the next coat something to bite into to help it stick.

For my silver coat, I just used the silver metallic, and not any of the specialty finishes. It depends on the effect you want, though. Again, a light sanding between coats can help with adhesion problems. Orange peeling is usually due to humidity and overspray. I try to only paint on low-humidity days, or in a climate-controlled area.

I don't have a preference between the two, but I always prime things before I start painting. Helps to keep colour-shift down to a minimum.

Logged
Oyacyir mav, ash'amur pirusti

OM#1624
Kyrimorut#021:KMB# 32:B.E.A.R.D.S#128:W.B. #08:MTS#082:M.M.R.S#017

Sep Ho'ban


    *
  • *
  • 4228
  • Awards Award for 25 official invasions. Order of the Ori'Ramikad Mobile Engineers Brigade Member Special Operations Brigade Member Award for 10 official invasions.
Re: Paint question/help
« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2018, 01:08 PM »
I used Rustoleum Automotive Filler primer on everything I've painted. I used Rustoleum Hamered Copper metalic as my base metallic coat.  Rostoleum Metallic Blue, and regular White as accent colors.  Then I weathered with Folk Acrylics.  After that I coated the whole kit in Rustoleum Matte Clearcoat.

General advice I've heard is just don't mix brands.

I did my masking for chipped paint with toothpaste.

I'm still a painting noob, but I'm happy with my results, so this is reasonably noob proof.

Re: Paint question/help
« Reply #3 on: Jun 01, 2018, 08:27 AM »
I would say with regard to paint......what do you ( or anyone) want for their armour.....brand new just out of the packet kit, or one that's been around and seen action, maybe look like it's had a few coats, repaired and lived in
With my kit so far I've used any paint, mixed brands, both spray can and airbrush. So far no reactions from mixing. My only issue has been tape lifting paint and a time I hadn't washed mould release thoroughly.
I use a primer, rustoleum for plastics, use a bristish paints silver for metal, then primer coat then what colours I'm using.
My belief for good weathering is.....layers, multiple layers with small details added. IE...I've used the same colour for two or three layers, but between layers add some latex or toothpaste for masking. This can help add subtle detail or texture to your layers which a Wash can bring out. If your character has sprayed his armour, he may not has cleaned it, may not care for the coat,
I haven't tried a clear coat between layers
When I paint, I don't have a rigid plan in mind, if the paint is crap...or get a reaction with it, or repainting....I go with what's revealed in the process...let the chips fall as they may. I find that's a bit more random and realistic
For weapons, so far I've only painted a dl44. I didn't want a flat look, instead I wanted something that looked mottled...I used a nickle hammertone then I think I was another normal coat over the top...just lightly to allow some of previous layer to show through
I don't know if I've answered anything, or just rattled on crap

Logged

Sabine


    *
  • *
  • 1988
  • Awards Award for 75 official invasions. 6 or more Education Points in a single year. Award for 25 official invasions. Award for 50 official invasions. 11+ Invasion Report Appearances
Re: Paint question/help
« Reply #4 on: Jun 01, 2018, 01:08 PM »
I've been using rustoleum automotive filler primer as a base, and the Krylon Stainless Steel coat for my metal. For my color layers, I've switched exclusively to artist paints. Montana Gold Cans are one of my favorites - there's a huge variety of colors and I've used it in temperatures as low as 40F. It will not cure to chrome paints, however sticks to the stainless steel very well. I've also tried Plutonium, which is limited colors but very high pigment, and goes on a s a nice matte, and a few shades of Testors cans and not had any problems with brand interactions.The testors does take a bit longer to dry and cure than Montana or Plutonium though.

As for clear coat, If you don't want any additional weathering than what you put on youself, I'd clear coat. Testors makes a nice matte one.

Logged
Sabine Wren S2

Tra'cor Clan || MMCC#1593 || M5#71 || NOS#9 || 96 OM Invasions

Scout


    *
  • 59
  • Target locked...
Re: Paint question/help
« Reply #5 on: Jun 04, 2018, 12:19 AM »
Thanks a ton for all of the replies so far - Feel free to keep adding info as everyone has different experiences and styles.

Logged
Scout
Havok-TDH
Graag Elairow

Darasuum Prudii


    *
  • 1863
  • Awards Donated four quarters of 2023. Celebration Anaheim 2022 Order of the Ori'Ramikad
Re: Paint question/help
« Reply #6 on: Jun 04, 2018, 12:55 AM »
howdy Vod. I’m new to all this as well but that being said have painted many things. I am using Krylon on everything.

I have a process down for how I’ve done everything. I add sever damage where wanted before painting first. I then start with a gray Krylon Primer, then move to my Silver, go back over after dry and add liquid latex for where I want exposed metal, then colors I want kit to be. After that is all dry I scrape off my liquid latex to expose my metal and then goes in the hand detailing, using acrylic paint straight on that to ad depth like rust and variations of the metal pitting. Then over that I do a Acrylic wash to add all over grim, which for mine is just black acrylic paint thinned in water and sprayed through a general purpose spray bottle. Then done.

The biggest thing I have noticed is best is if you pick a brand and type of paint and stick with it. Like if you use Krylon Maxx use nothing but Krylon Maxx and so on and so forth.

I’ve seen so far no issues of paint not adhering to anything. I have everything made out of cast resin, sintra, pvc, rubber, and metal. Seen no issue with any of it.

Hope this helps Vod! And good luck!

Logged
Re: Paint question/help
« Reply #7 on: Sep 18, 2021, 11:19 AM »
Forgive me if this is not so relevant, but I was perturbed by the quality of the colors. When I picked the Dragon Pattern color, I thought it would look pretty good compared to the other colors. But when I started applying it, I felt that it was one of those times when someone did something wrong with the shade.
It seemed too red, and I had difficulty applying it to get an even layer (because of its texture). I tried changing it to "pattern," but that made it even more difficult. But I liked painting and decided to buy a more original image by numbers https://paintingbynumbersshop.com/products/jesus-christ-abstract-paint-by-numbers. It turned out super!

« Last Edit: Sep 20, 2021, 12:10 PM by Hurenwer » Logged

Tramp Graphics


    *
  • 1419
  • Illustrator
Re: Paint question/help
« Reply #8 on: Sep 18, 2021, 12:18 PM »
I work exclusively in acrylics, no enamels. My go to is Tamyia Color, when I can get it. For my kit I’m using their Clear Blue and Metallic Blue. Both are high gloss. Additionally, I’m using Vallejo acrylic-polyurethane surface primer and Transparent Blue, and Mission Models Gloss Black, Chrome Silver, and Gold. All of these are airbrush compatible paints.

Logged
 


Don't like ads? Help support the Mercs by becoming a Supporter or Auxiliary Member today! (You will need to be logged into the store)
Official Members also get to use the forum ad-free - so kit up and join us!



Powered by EzPortal
SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk