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 Dresdon's DF-12 Stainless Steel Jetpack build(MOAR METALSTORM)

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Dresdon Acacin


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SEE NEWEST POST-THE ONE FEATURED BELOW AND A BIT ABOVE WAS REDONE IN STAINLESS


     I am making a slightly modified Merr-son Munitions ZX-6 jetpack, with a few small performance enhancing aftermarket modifications. Modifications to ZX-6 to make it custom: Military grade Gyro Stabalizers, custom fuel tank caps, Anti-tank AVHM(higher concussing force from explosion), heat-sink incorperating missile launching base, more adjustable directional thrusters, and the bottom "shower-drain" vent thing will be several stacked pieces of 20gauge sheet-metal that make a nice shape.

Gyro Stabalizer: started out with Brass heat exhanger valve cap & scrap brass from a faucet.

I then drilled a 1/4" hole through the top in the aprox. center, sanded the burs, sanded the orange paint, and put a 31/2" bolt through it.

I then spun it against a wire brush with it affixed to the chuck of my corded drill.

which, gave me this brushed-brass finish. Shame I'm going to blackwash it :-\


will post more progress when i get time.
fore now, you can still see the pics before i post them here
http://s810.photobucket.com/albums/zz28/Dresdon_Acacin/

edit: krif-lemme fix all those typos in the thread title >.>

« Last Edit: Oct 12, 2013, 10:55 PM by Dresdon Acacin » Logged
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Dresdon Acacin


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Re: Dresdon's ZX-7(NOW PRESENTED IN TECHNI-COLOUR!!!)
« Reply #1 on: Mar 10, 2012, 12:22 AM »
Got both directional thrusters drilled, mounted, screwed, and bondo'd the seems [ :-[ all of that came out wrong... :-X ]

NOTE:I used threadlock [mediumstrength-blue LOCTITE, formula....264?]     on everything that was bolted.

     Nextly for the missile/central fuel cannister-dremmeled down the bondo under the missile's base, dremmeled a 31/2"[exterior diameter] semi-domed & threaded B-PVC pipe cap for what the missile base is mounted to[note that no pics were taken of that step] and under that there is another B-PVC 31/2threaded coupling. Note that I had to dremmel out all the threading

and it killed my dremmel.
[before/after comparison]

So I returned it and got a new one  :rolleyes: . I glued the pipe caps using PVC/B-PVC/ABS transition cement and stunk up my basement at 1am with that stuff. The actual pipe that the couplings are glued onto is 3" ABS [hence the transition cement for B-PVC to ABS].

Next up was the directional thrusters.
For the actual cone thingys i used 2 spray nozzels from a hospital Chiller I scrapped not-too-long ago. they are made of grey (possibly B-)PVC I chopped off  the actual directional spraying head part and sanded it down. Then I got a 3/8s 11/2" long wood-threaded bolt and a 21/2" stainless steel washer. These fit into the directional thruster "cone" to keep it secured to the ball-joint thing. For the "ball-joint" thing I used 2 ash[the wood] curtain rod pinnials. But just between you and me, you have no idea were they went, and neither do I :-X   these had a cheap white metal base and cap. I drilled a 1/4" hole in both the base and cap, then drilled through it in 5/16" After that, I passed a 5" section of threaded rod through with 2"s sticking out of the bottom of the base-here is a pic of the whole directional thruster + ball joint + base + cap

In order for the base to fit semi-seemlessly onto the 2 side fuel cannisters I had to grind down the base of the pinnial

-which posed no challange due t it's relatively low quality alloy. I acomplished this with blood, torn work gloves, and several sanding drums. [Note that many sanding drums will un-wind while in rotation and cut-you-up]

 As you can see, I got them pretty close the the arc of the pipe-wall.

After the parts were "properly" shaped, I began the lengthly, excruciating, and annoying proscess of mounting them on so they are tornado proof. [as in they WILL NOT MOVE ] To start this, I had to dremmel a circuler cavity into the pipe caps and couplings at the bottom of the fuel cannisters where the directional thruster is to be mounted. I made it about 3/4" round to fit a stack of 1/4" washers

,that would keep the directional thruster level throughout mounting so I could friction-fit the bottom grey B-PVC  semi-domed pipe cap onto it. [ I belive they were higher PSI pipe caps due to the dme, with a dome there are no corners to focus preassure ]once I had the apropriete height in the stack of washers, ontop of them I torqued on a 1/4" nut that had a built-in washer which reduced the chances of the nut going through the hole of the washer. I ofcourse drilled a 3/8" hole in the base to acomidate the nut though.

On the inside however, I had to arrange an ornate stack of washers that prevented the pipe from becoming ovuler in shape and keep the 5" rod from possibly being yanked out, and to withstand the enormous tension it will be under. As you can see, it performed it's function admirable well while adding about a pound of weight on each directional thruster.

I then screwed around with those osik'la ash pinials for about an hour each until I got something that worked. They weren't drilled exactly the same so they needed a lot of adjusting. Once i got them mounted, I did my final screwing-on of the 3/8" wood-bolt.....fastener...thingys...lag-bolts?

I also founf some reasonable looking bolts to use for the end caps, I started by counter-sining the pan-head 3/16" hex-key bolts with the 1/4"-20 threading. I put aproximatly 2-3 1/4" nuts

[some had lock-washers] to act as spacers. but the bolts were some gunked-up I had to re-thread them in 1/4"-20 threading.

Once those were on, I added my coupler-nut and then torqed it onto the threaded rod keeping the pinnian ball on the fuel cannister; no seriously-I torqed those so bad I nearly soiled my drawers and gave myself a hernia. I was turning it with a 2' copper pipe until I was weary of the bolt itself getting stripped, so I was content with the tornado-proof bolting of them.


Onto the Aerodynamic Pipe Caps:
Top:
Quote
Started with a decorative lighting nut, 2 thin washers, 2 big washers, some brass faucet lug-nuts, and a bolt just like I used on directional thruster-pinnial caps+ a 1/4" nut & washer.
  ALL JUST MENTIONED PARTS IN QUOTE X2

I started by drilling out the lighting nut and countersinking it, then puting the bolt in.


I then stacked:
bolt head
lighting nut
thin washer
brass faucet lugnut
big washer
thin washer
1/4" nut
and it then looked like this




I then filed down/sanded a B-PVC domed pipe cape and drilled a 1/4" hole in the top and passed the washer-stack thing through it and bolted it with a big washer and then a thin washer.


After noticing I needed a longer 21/2" section for the visual part of the jetpack's fuel cannister, I sawed the top off of 4 more of the before mentioned B-pvc pipe caps, filed/sanded them, and stacked them accordingly so they would provide the apropriete amound of visual 21/2"ness...to the...thing  [stares at watch, 3:43 am, typing up post for past 2hours  :'( ]
I just counter-sunk with a 5/16" HSS machining bit I used on the directional thrusters as well.

-and I put a gyp-rock screw in & filed it flush

 because I was feeling a little naseus from all the melted plastic, threadlock I ingested, and blood-loss. It worked out pretty well though.

I will be mounting the cannisters to the jetpack's "back plate" using screws of some type.

Bottom fuel cannister pipe cap:
I found some odd partial cone cabinetry accesories at RESTORE and used those with some 1/4" bolts I found while dumpster-diving for a control panel out'back o'my electronics place  :-[
So yea, I passed the bolts through that and the cap, put a washer and then bolted it to the bottom caps that had the notch cut out of them for the directional thruster base.




Anti
Vehicle
Homing
Missile
(Anti-tank varient)

I made using several plumbing parts, a couple broken odd lightsaber parts, several #2 Robertson sheetmetal screws, the lid to an old BIONICLEs contained i found next to the control pannel and bolts, and some strange piece of plastic that screws together that i am using to make it detacable. I also chopped off the reamer piece of an orange juicer of the nose-cone. I filled all the cavitys in it with BONDO-GLASS, so it is fairly solid. As for painting, still needs a bit of sandign and I am thinking about using copper for the "metal" parts with OD green

[no pics of missile yet, still need a bit of bondo sanding]

« Last Edit: Mar 10, 2012, 03:05 AM by Dresdon Acacin » Logged
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Thaxos


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Looking good so far, let's see some new progress photos!

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Dresdon Acacin


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OK here are the progress pics
note that the missile and center tank thing are just loosely placed there for the time being, and will be mounted at a later time when I get some more rivets to make the rest of the chasis to attache to the missile tank.

overview:


bottom view


Missile


here is the riveting I metnioned to Thaxos


45 degree diagnol view


mounting of fuel tanks to chassis: a couple exterior pop rivets[see riveting pic] and 5" long gyprock 1/4" anchor bolts or whatever those butterfly nut things are;anyways-said 2 bolts with some washers and a collet act as spacers to keep the 2 tanks at aproximately the same heigh/depth ratio in the chassis.

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Thaxos


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Progress looks good.

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Dresdon Acacin


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what about the aircraft hull fashion of riveting?

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Thaxos


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I don't think it's a deal breaker, not what I personally would do... I don't think it'll be an issue on approval though.

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Dresdon Acacin


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hmm....I'm getting some negative feeb ack from most people I ask; but generaly it is "As far as canonical jetpacks go, there havn't been any with that much riveting-if any at all. Unless it is a custom pack, I would smooth it out."  It is indeed a custom one-it is supposed to be a ressurected hulk of scrap metal. I.e. aquireing the carcass of a ZX-6 and rebuilding it to my own tailering. Which includes replacing the rectanguler box that goes on the center fuel tank with a micro-rayshield generator. And this give it some small-arms resistance along with an armoured overylay. [i.e. the customisable armour overlays in Kotor I & II.

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Thaxos


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Check with the approval team for the official stance, they know best.

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I freakin' Love how you fitted a Lightsaber greeb as the missile. I used the same exact Greeb for my missile,  :P

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Dresdon Acacin


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sweet  8)

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Dresdon Acacin


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JetPack will be on-hold untill I get the rest of the kit re-vamped. Have to prioritise my effort.

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Dresdon Acacin


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New concept and modifying pre-existing parts to go with the new design, and scrapping the glavlanised steel chassis for stainless steel with a CO2 system as I acumalate those parts with time.

Basicaly just need a 40oz paintball tank for the CO2 if anyone wanys to trade something for one? >.>
no?... fine, scram then...go play on your RP threads or something...



The missile is done(Who else would build the bullets before the gun?). I'll take a pic of the concept next chance I get. Idealy going to use 20gauge 403Stainless Steel and braze it together with bronze using my acetalyne torch. Was offered a job at NBs biggest metal fabricating fascility so I have access to more materials soon.

Re-using the following parts:
Thrusters
Missile
modified cones
central cylinder/missile base
missile
most of the greebs like the gyro + a comm spike

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Dresdon Acacin


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Well then. Started brazing the new Jetpack together-mostly 20 and 22 gague 403 stainless, but instead of mainly bronze I have come to notice that the temperature for bronze brazing is...bittersweet. I heat it up enought to melt the brozne and the surface warps with the ehat >...< So it's abck to SilFos15(Yea, $350/lbs-good thing I get it for free from work) and I'm then beefing up the weld with the bronze so essentialy give it roughly 20% bronze content, so it's stronger and less brittle...to think I bought a whole tube of bronze jsut for this lol....I guess I'll just save the bronze for thicker stainless like knee or cod palte work, as that's roughly 14gauge.

Since this jetpack actauly counts as an IB Art project(the painting and shaping of it anyways) I was able to get all my stainless for free (<3) along with a crapload of other parts they through in. Some such parts are these 2mm thick stainless steel plates with T_nuts weleded on that I'm going to use for the mounting method, YUP: Bolts going straight through the backplate! and when not in use, I'll just have some fancy bolts plugging the holes on the backpalte.....So umm...yea, going to make my new jetpack over my march break(which I am halfway through...better late than never....I'll post updates when my dad gets home with the Iphone for picture taking.

_________________________________________________ _____________________________________________
EDIT: here are the pics of the progress on the new jetpack...also got a vid to upload once MovieMaker is done publishing a RS clan vid. Made from 20-22gauge 403 stainless steel and brazed with Silfos15 and a bit of bronze.   I was literaly working on it until it was black outside(which made picking teh tools and parts up a pain in the shebse)

Ok, it make look really bulky in these pics(it weighs less than my galvanised steel version lololol), but that's going to be fixed by adding the raised parts near the center tank that can be seen in the cencept sketch here:


I will shamefully admit now, it's not as sleep as the concept portrayed. the flat part's too big and the diagonal panels arnt big enough >.<    I made it based off of my old one :L    so I'll need to make up for that somehow...


Buuuut, up-side to that is the inside's plenty roomy.

I could fit a couple of them 80s stereos you'd see them punks carrying around on theri shoulder in there even.

It reminds me a bit of the Ebon Hawk...hopefully it doesnt look too bad in the end though...I feel devastated that such a simple thing, such as the angle of a couple segments threw off the entire concept so far >...<   :'(  :'(  :'(  :'(   :'(   :'(   :'(   :'(

I am very pleased with how smooth I made my cones...one's a chunk of 1x4's I glued together and shaped with my grinder like I did my Beskad, and with vigorous sanding for a couple days I got them both nearly identicle and smooth as a Twilek's Lekku(head tail). The one in teh picture is the aluminum fence post cap I used to model the second cap off of.


My welding was damn good though...only problem I had was the bottom part of the jetpack warping uncontrolable when I went to braze on the bottom bracket part that will make the mounting system.


I'll need to fill this gap...but anyways, the center tank sits quite nicely...pretty tight but whatever.


*sigh* Incompetants asked to do simple tasked utterly fail misrably when I make a simple request. This is supposed to be a picture of the right thruster shielding palte, but it's more like a picutre of the whole hing taken too far away -.-     Rest assured when I do the enxt update I'll take a proper picutre and pick my tools up cursing in the darkness to make sure that this gets done right next time.


I need a consensus. Do some extreme surgery and redo the parts that arnt like in the concept so it looks sleaker or leave it as-is?

« Last Edit: Mar 06, 2013, 10:51 PM by Dresdon Acacin » Logged
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Dresdon Acacin


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Re: Dresdon's DF-12 Stainless Steel Jetpack build(see newest post)
« Reply #14 on: Mar 07, 2013, 06:20 PM »
GOOD NEWS! It's actualy looking good like the concept now!
BAD NEWS! my dad left rate away when he got home to go to his second job -.-     'gonna have to wait a few more hours to ake pcis and upload them >.<    but in the mean-time here' a video I had taken of me last night brazing the right thruster shield onto the chassis...proof that i work into the dark and that it is indeeed me doing this...well-I guess to those of you who havn't ever seen me IRL working it wouldnt be proof...but those who ahve know its me...
 
I start off by brushing flux onto both the chassis and the shield plate then I braze it.

EDIT:
Alrite, the noob got home at like midnight and I didnt get the phone and he left at like 6am again today >.<
But here's whats getting done today. Got the...'headboard'(the top part of the backplate (behind the missile) and now I'm adding the rigid frame, made of 1/8" angle iron(sadly not stainless :'( ) and now I'm welding the T-nut assemblies onto the frame parts, the jetpack has gained about 5lbs but it's as solid as cast iron now. Each T-nut assembly has 2 Tnuts on it, (which are all stainless btw) and I have two of the T-nut assemblies welded on the vertical jetpack frame struts and that will make 8  in total, 4 on each side.


Edit: Ok, heres yesterdays pics first, and then today's pics
As promised, here are the better pics of the directional thruster shield plates. Note that the thrusters are not mounted yet, and are just sitting loosely for the pic.



On the concept you say there were hoses on the sides, well here are the fancy pieces that allow for that.

their cast zinc electrical related Controls hardware, so they arn't that common-I've only ever had 2 people point out thigns on my armour that they recognised. My dad's boss for a Compressor relay I used on the side of my Goldenwing helmet, and a plumber I met at Harbour Con-Fusion who recognised the faucet cartridge i used on the back of Janet, my disruptor pistol.

Heres the addition of the raised portions. Their cut out of 3/16" Aluminum Diamond plate, should I have them pattern out or pattern hidden?



Heres the gyro housing, same thign i was going to use on the last one.


and then on the opposite side I ahve the comm spike/beacon. I made it out of the temperature sensor of an oven and the LED is a leftover part from a lasertag gun I took apart to make someone a Disruptor rifle.
I added the small Stainless palte onto it with 4 rivets to look like an access panel or something. Its moutned with two 8/32 machine screws, and YES everything thats good to go has been thraed-locked.

It DOES go up past the 'headboard' but not by much.

and then the soda can shaped LED which is actualy super-bright

To attach the Headboard I used a universal Condensator mounting bracket that I bent out about 10* more than its standard 90*, and now it fits on the angled surface of teh jetpack top. I used fancy Alen-key machine screws in 1/4" thraeding to do all the visible mounting, I'll be using more generic looking hex-head grade5 bolts on the back frame of it though...either those or something nicer depending on what I have available.



Now onto the inside, still roomy as allways but now I riveted on the PVC pip center tank, attached the mounting hardware, and added some epoxy putty to hold the tank tops in place and fill a couple large gaps inside.
Here I also cut the hole in the tank to pass the electroncis for the shield generator and reduce the weight slightly...because teh PVC part actualy weighs more than the steel frame made of angle-iron I cut out of my bedframe.

As you can see, I have added the epoxy putty inside to be a gap filler and secure thigns in place like the cones. That blue wire is for the Comm spike.

The bottom of the tank I left sticking out a bit because I'm not 100% sure on what I'm using for the base plate, more details on that at the end of the post.

the bottom needs a solid base like the 1/4" Aluminum because it got some warping while brazing and will dealwith the gaps n such.


This is at the top of the jetpack at the rear of teh center tank. At the lower/right of the red righting on the conduit piece you can see were I added some epoxy putty as a fgap filler.

I also did the same on the bottom.

HEY LOOK! The blue fireproof coveralls with the flourescent reflective safety strips...does that count as proof I did the brazing my self? I often get people saying stuff like"Oh yeah right, you probably bought that on ebay", which pisses me the kriff off after I put so much work into something.

Were its double layeerd the PVC on the center tank is a whole 1/2" thick, with a piece of the 3/16" diamond plate for comparison.


Heres the frame, After i wlded the T-nut assemblies on, I cleaned the flux off with hot running water, to my horror the freshly ground metal already began to condensate rust on the surface, so i dried it with a hand towel and shot it with rust paint. WISH I HAD ALUMINUUUUM



Oh and heres the missile....I got it all painted up a lil while ago so Id at least have something done, but its the same missile from the last jetpack minus all the screws, jsut removed those and bondod, the internal bondo plug makes it solid enough....I made the cone out of sheetmetal and a triangular diamond bit for my dremal though.



So umm...heres were it stands as of now.





Its starting to look something like the concept now....





So, abou that bottom base plate. its nescesary because there was some warping while doing some of the wlding on it. Easy fix-BUUUUT, while cutting saidd base plate out of some 1/4" Aluminum Diamond plate,
MY GRINDER ERUPTED INTOO A BALL OF FLAMES AND I WAS ELECTROCUTED THOUGH THE TRIGGER OF IT!
It's a 5A grinder so it could have easily been fatal, instead it just  grounded through my forearm to my elbow and then down my thick through my knee as I was kneeling on the ground cutting it out whilst it was atop of a wooden pallet.  SO NOW I need a new grinder -.-

The cause of the grinder's malfunction I believe was the extended use with an extention cord, because it craetes a higher amperage draw and probably fried the contacts on the switch, and thus in turn shorted outt he coil on the motor, causing the spun wire to glow like by Gattling gun battery nightmare, hence the fire and smoke and flames shooting out the vent while I was trying to use it.

« Last Edit: Mar 08, 2013, 11:13 PM by Dresdon Acacin » Logged
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