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[Raestin Ke'Varek]

Well, just couldn't justify spending a ton of money on soft parts.  So I bought a sewing machine instead!!  Got it on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F7DPEQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00), should be here by Friday.  I have zero experience with sewing, but I figure I'll just overdose on YouTube tutorials and getrdun!! 

If anyone has any tips, tricks or patterns they wanna share, I'm all ears.  We'll be starting with the flak vests first.

[Mercy]

LOL! that is so funny.
I just did the same thing for the same reason, same lack of skill, and same youtube plan

[Ref Al'drann]

My advice is to go slow and make sure your lines are straight, always practice on scraps first, and always make sure the sewing machine is set up correctly before you start sewing.

As far as patterns go, THIS is the vest pattern tutorial I use.

[Raestin Ke'Varek]

Lol. That's too funny Mercy!! Great minds think alike! 

Thanks for the advice Ref, I'll definitely start small.  That's a great link to the TDH pattern, a bit overwhelming, but I feel confident that I can figure it out. 

[Kestra Wades]

I can offer some advice for sewing if you need it, have been sewing for a better part of my life. 

Going slow and start sewing with scrap fabric first is good first time advice, that way you get the feel for your machine(s) and know how much pressure is needed and they work pretty much like a car.

Second tip I can offer is needles come in different sizes.  Finer, softer fabrics like silk or chiffon need smaller sized needles, thicker fabrics like canvas need heavier needles.  This is important cause you can wind up breaking needles.  Also a clean sewing machine works best, so keeping it lint free is a good idea (an air brush or spray can duster work well for this).

If the patterns you're using don't have a seam allowance, expect a tight fit!  Standard seam allowance is 5/8".  Add that to your pattern and you should be ok.  It's also ok to add a little extra to the pattern size itself if you're going off of base measurements, it's easier to take something in than to let it out.

I hope this helps a little...if you have any other questions feel free to PM me

[Greydogtech]

Just got one the other day too never used one in my life but so hopefully I can learn want to sew my own flax vest out of leather

[Raestin Ke'Varek]

Thanks Kestra for the sage advice.  I'm looking forward to experimenting with it!!  I hope I got a good machine. It had stellar reviews on Amazon and it was a good price for an entry machine.

[Kebii'laar]

Things will be easier if you have a second pair of hands around.  I never touched a sewing machine before in my life until I talked to my aunt about making a vest with her.  I... didn't start on scraps, but I did have a semi-experienced sewer's advice to follow.

I say semi-experienced because she didn't think to remind me to finish my edges, and with it being my first project ever I didn't think of it either.  I had to make bias tape from some of my extra duck cloth to trim it and protect the raw edges.  Other options for cleaning edges are an overlock stitch (needs a separate foot for your machine) and first sewing two pieces together with the vest right-side-out, then turning it inside-out and sewing the same edge again.  I'm... not sure what that's called, but that's how I originally sewed the shoulders and sides of my vest together.  There's probably a better way to fix your edges, but it served for a decent first attempt and seems fairly durable so far.

[Kestra Wades]

Sometimes all you really need to do, depending on the type of fabric is a zig-zag stich right on the raw edge, using a regular foot.  I've done this before with taffeta, satins and brocades that easily unraveled.  The closer the stitches are together, the better they'll hold, but you don't want them too close together or you'll wind up getting stuck on an unwanted wad of stitches.

I believe the technique you described with sewing the one way and then encasing the raw edges within another seam is referred to as a french seam.  Works well on lighter fabrics but on heavier fabrics it can be a little bulkier.

[Drek'ar Ventress]

My wife had been asking for a sewing machine for a while, so when I started gathering materials for my soft parts, I realized quickly how nice it would be to have one.  So I convinced her we should buy one so she can start her projects.  Needless to say, since its been in the house, shes only used it once. 

I too had never used one before.  So I did like the other said, and just started with scraps and learned how the sewing machine worked.  Played with stitching some, but mainly I suggest understanding how the fabric/stitching work together.  Ensure that fabric is moving with the stitching.  If it sits in the same spot or doesn't move enough, you start getting bunching in the fabric and the thread will get all bunched up in the bottom.  Just causing you more headaches undoing the stitching, wasting a bunch of thread untangling it and breaking needles.  (don't tell my wife, but I did manage to break one already - got to comfortable sewing and was smashing down on that foot petal hard and it was going to fast, the fabric bunched up, I pulled too fast and snap.  I was more worried about the machine itself, than the needle)

Just take your time, practice, practice, practice... and you'll get the hang of it in no time.  I've managed to make my own vest, girth belt and working on neck seal now.  Loving it...

[Kestra Wades]

Oh yes...settings...settings are crucial!  Some stitches are useful for more decorative edges while others allow for stretch when sewing fabrics like Lycra and spandex, still others allow for a hidden seam or a really strong one.  Beware the buttonhole though, that one has been the bane of my existence.

Length of the stitch is also important...the shorter the stitch, the tighter the seam, but it takes for bleeping ever to get anything done.  Better to use in a small area that's going through a lot of wear.  Conversely, the longer the stitch, it is a little looser, but OMG you can whip through a  6 yard skirt like you're drivin' a Ferrari...

ok...so I did a lot of Renaissance clothing.

[Modan Kordo]

Yeah, I have to second the advice given about making sure your machine is set up correctly, especially the thread tension on both the bobbin and the top thread. I inherited my late aunt's old machine (a 1965 Singer 338). It is in great condition, but I do have to go through setting the tension every 2-3 sewing session. I have to say, however, that when it is dialed-in well it sews better than any of the newer models I've tried. I'm still having some issues with wider zig-zags, but straight on stitches are no trouble, even through several layers of material.

So if you're having issues with the bottom thread showing through on top of your material, or the reverse, check for tuts on how to dial-in the tension on your machine. It's fairly straightforward and will definitely help to maintain your sanity!

[Kestra Wades]

sounds like my mom's...  There is something special about the older machines.  Mine is newer, but does the job I ask it, so I'm not too worried about throwing any heavy materials at it.  One machine I don't want is a an industrial Viking machine....those things can sew through bone! (and I know people who've had those injuries!)