Mandalorian Mercs Costume Club
Mandalorian Armor => Armor Construction => Topic started by: MCarger81 on Nov 16, 2015, 06:26 PM
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Hey Vods here is the start of my WIP, it took me about a month but, I have finally completed my Own Vest and now needing some armor template advice. As you see i'm struggling trying to tape them on ??? and i feel they are the right size EXCEPT my collar... is it me or does it seem off, wrong angle or just too big? much advice is greatly appreciated
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg105/ActsOne23/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/63CE3623-C228-4C4F-894F-EFE863E893A1.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg105/ActsOne23/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/824C085F-0E59-48F5-B1BF-E33567B24C30.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg105/ActsOne23/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/449862BD-3BBE-4CDC-93B4-182668325E30.jpg)
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The collar is too wide. I had the same issue. But the spacing looks good, and the size looks good except the collar.
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The plates might be a bit low to, the collar plate is supposed to sit high. The advice I got from an app team member is to set it about where your shirt collar would sit normally. And the rest of the plates would come up to match it. But yes, the collar plate appears to be a bit too wide as well. Great job on the vest by the way vod! Looks like it fits you really well, you might have to find a way to either tuck the straps in somewhere or hide them a bit, but other than that, top notch.
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The collar is too wide. I had the same issue. But the spacing looks good, and the size looks good except the collar.
Yes that's what i thought, it's back to the drawing board to fix them up, thank you!
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The plates might be a bit low to, the collar plate is supposed to sit high. The advice I got from an app team member is to set it about where your shirt collar would sit normally. And the rest of the plates would come up to match it. But yes, the collar plate appears to be a bit too wide as well. Great job on the vest by the way vod! Looks like it fits you really well, you might have to find a way to either tuck the straps in somewhere or hide them a bit, but other than that, top notch.
ok so if I round the inside of the collar and narrow it some then i should be good, thank you for the advice and kind words!
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Yup, after that you should be golden.
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Yup, after that you should be golden.
Perfect! Also i'll do what you said and maybe make some velcro for the straps to hide them, maybe buttons...
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Ok so i did some cutting and re-arranging of my templates, please let let me know if this works especially the collar. I also moved up the ab plate and the pec places.Thoughts and ideas?
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg105/ActsOne23/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/E83C8B2F-2BF3-4980-85B1-21A74AC54600.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg105/ActsOne23/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/A61A3BB5-5150-4839-A763-17E84375F8EC.jpg)
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Looks good to me.
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Looks good to me.
Thanks for the good news Svik :D i'm going to start on the cog next and backplate templates then once all is cut and approved I'll get to the Real cutting
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I'm working on my paper template for the Back Plate, can you guys post up some pics of yours? for some reason i'm having a hard time putting the image in my head as to how it is attached to the back
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To me, the plates look a bit big still. Not by much though. It's almost universal that people think the plates need to be bigger than they really are. Take a good close look at Jango and Boba, and you'll see they really are fairly small compared to their body size. I don't think you need to lose more than 1/8" all around to make it perfect, although in reality it's probably approvable as-is.
I'd still try and move that collar up all the way so it's just below the neck hole of the vest. You may even want to trim a little more out of the curve of the collar for your neck so the wings can sit up higher on your collar bone. Again, I'd start with 1/8", post a pic, and if necessary take another 1/8" off. Shouldn't need more than 1/4" though to get it up where it should be.
Keep up the great work!
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To me, the plates look a bit big still. Not by much though. It's almost universal that people think the plates need to be bigger than they really are. Take a good close look at Jango and Boba, and you'll see they really are fairly small compared to their body size. I don't think you need to lose more than 1/8" all around to make it perfect, although in reality it's probably approvable as-is.
I'd still try and move that collar up all the way so it's just below the neck hole of the vest. You may even want to trim a little more out of the curve of the collar for your neck so the wings can sit up higher on your collar bone. Again, I'd start with 1/8", post a pic, and if necessary take another 1/8" off. Shouldn't need more than 1/4" though to get it up where it should be.
Keep up the great work!
Great Info, thank you Ralin I'll start with an 1/8th and see how that works, if anything that'll probably help alot since it's a tad hard to cross my arms
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Yeah, I was just gonna say the collar still looks a bit wide, Ralin is (no surprise) right on the money. That little trim should make you golden
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I'm working on my paper template for the Back Plate, can you guys post up some pics of yours? for some reason i'm having a hard time putting the image in my head as to how it is attached to the back
Side view, rivetted to the vest at the top tabs and under the arms.
(http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r248/jarakrisafis/Costumes/Kris%20Jasra/Kris%20Jasra%20V3%2031_zpsmcspckc8.jpg)
Older shot but hopefully helpful:
(http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r248/jarakrisafis/Costumes/Kris%20Jasra/Costume%20detail/KrisJasraV23_zps9ade2ded.jpg)
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Thanks Kris & Kiffren for your pics, that helps alot! and yes i've actually trimmed down my plates all by 1/4" i will be trying it on today and resending a pic for verification. Thanks all for your help!
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Alright here's an update of my templates which I trimmed roughly 1/4" all around and also the collar, it feels and looks much more like the orig. Boba/ Jango. After studying pictures long enough, one gets either blurred vision or his eyes become open lol let me know if this is passable
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg105/ActsOne23/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/FCA1A94F-EFD4-4B34-8E19-6EBAC2C37F4A.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg105/ActsOne23/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/9EB6D7B2-20FF-4ED7-A146-9FE467744DCF.jpg)
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Sizing looks SO much better! You're on your way, vod.
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Sizing looks much better! I don't know what's going on with your collar plate though. I assume that bump is due to the material under it? But it looks kind of like it's wider in the middle so I'm hoping that's just the picture angle. You might even be able to move your collar (and all your plates) up a hair more but I think you're getting pretty close to spot on.
Ya that bump unfortunatley is just from the paper/ tape but i assure it's not really like that here's a pic with out it on me... I think this should show what it really will look like.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg105/ActsOne23/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-11/E8655C62-70CE-419C-BBD4-037EE3759575.jpg)
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So i've got my template ready for the my backplate, but can someone tell me.... is this a two man job to heat up the material (Sintra) and mold it to my back? cause it sounds difficult to tackle by myself lol when all else fails... ask the wife ;D
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Loving the vest and the armor is looking really good!! The last sizing hit it's mark pretty good.
The back is a two person job to get it right. Just don't have the wife use the heat gun with you in it thinking it is a hair dryer though... :laugh: :o
Lynn
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Aye, backplates are best with 2 people. I find bribery works well to get the second pair of hands.
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thanks lynn... haha ya i'll treat her to a nice dinner and then ask after the fact 8)
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I usually use 3 people plus the one who it's being formed to. I get the plastic all floppy (not just parts of it, the entire thing). The person getting it formed needs something to protect them from the hot plastic (usually a sweatshirt does the trick). One person holds the shoulders, one holds the sides (kidneys), and the third rubs over the entire back to get it shaped nicely. Usually we form backplates at armor parties when there are lots of people available to help.
It can be formed with one or two people but it works better if you have more.
Very informative Kiffren, thank you for sharing and I'll try to get more helping hands as well.
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It's been too long since I've uploaded any new pics let alone worked on my wip, but i've finally got the space and resources now. As you can see the armor is a real "W.I.P" :o more to come!
(http://i.imgur.com/TX8l6jW.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/RdNhmv8.jpg)
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update, here are some of my armor pieces all cut out, sanded and now just to make sure they fit properly! *praying :rolleyes: I still have my back plate to cut out, which will be interesting to mold :-[
(http://i.imgur.com/q3ewRO0.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/KeM3cx5.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/oQ60sSZ.jpg)
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Got my boot cuffs cut out and started to paint along with knee guards, still have to add blasters but that'll be near the end after all paint and weathering is complete
(http://i.imgur.com/I8H6cgF.jpg)
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Is the paint just crazy reflecting of the boot plates or are they... crumpled? I can't tell if it's just the light doing strange things.
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no that's a "dented" look which then I'll weather them to look like bent metal.
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They do look a little crumpled rather than dented - the sort of effect you get after being in a high speed crash - at which point I have to ask if you plan on similar damage on the rest of the plates as it's highly unlikely that only the boots came off that badly.
Again, unsure if it's good paint on sintra or if they're real metal - if they are metal a small ball pien hammer works best for putting in blaster dents, and a dull chisel can put in nice sharp cuts without going through the metal.
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Kris is spot on with her post.
Consistency is key here and weathering is no exception. You don't want any one part of your kit to stick out from the others
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well that's a bummer, 2 of the same opinions... well back to the drawing board for me on the boot covers :'( :-[
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decided to take a break on those boot covers and work on the cod piece...trying something a little creative
(http://i.imgur.com/JmHgU2V.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/kJ4Aedf.jpg)
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The skull looks great.
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The skull looks great.
Thanks Torolf, wanted to try something different and had some extra sintra so put it to good use
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here are some more pics of updated work... these knee plates are about 90% done as far as greeblies are concerned, gotta paint now
(http://i.imgur.com/DAkGqRI.jpg)
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UPDATE: sorry it's been a while due to the holidays and kid, but finally getting more armor painted here... should have most of it painted pretty shortly.
(http://i.imgur.com/ChL4Odg.jpg)
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Keep going!!!
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I've hit a roadblock and that is, I'm not 100% certain how I want to attach my armor. I'd like to use Chicago Screws, but am wondering, do these have to be covered? anyone here have that method for their armor and if so a pic?
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Any way of attaching your armor that has exposed heads of any sort you'll have to paint to match your plates. You can use chicago screws, or another sort of rivet, but that attachment method can be rather...permanent. That can hinder you, especially when it comes to plates spacing.
I would suggest industrial strength velcro so if you need to adjust something it's as easy as pull off and replace. I've got it on both of my plates and have no issues with it.
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Any way of attaching your armor that has exposed heads of any sort you'll have to paint to match your plates. You can use chicago screws, or another sort of rivet, but that attachment method can be rather...permanent. That can hinder you, especially when it comes to plates spacing.
I would suggest industrial strength velcro so if you need to adjust something it's as easy as pull off and replace. I've got it on both of my plates and have no issues with it.
Yes this is true about being permanent, is your velcro sewn on or adhered via sticky?
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Look for the sew in/sticky back velcro. It has the adhesive on one piece only so you can stick it to your armor, and the other piece is clean so you can sew it on. You don't want to run your sewing machine needle through the adhesive as friction heat will jam it up something fierce.
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Mine is both.
Adhesive backed, sewn in with fishing line (so it doesn't get caught on the adhesive). :)
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Mine is both.
Adhesive backed, sewn in with fishing line (so it doesn't get caught on the adhesive). :)
nice! you must have used a very large needle :o
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A very large needle and some sore fingers!
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A very large needle and some sore fingers!
:laugh: cool i'll give this a try instead and see how it goes, thanks for the advice!
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Can anyone tell me what other material is suitable besides leather for the Pouches? i want to use leather more than anything but it's pretty pricey... any suggestions?
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Check out this post (http://mandalorianmercs.org/forum/index.php?topic=127611.0) for some alternate pouch ideas. Also, you could visit these guys (https://www.libertytreecollectors.com/productcart/pc/ltc-default.asp). They frequently have World War 2 era pouches for amazing prices.
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Check out this post (http://mandalorianmercs.org/forum/index.php?topic=127611.0) for some alternate pouch ideas. Also, you could visit these guys (https://www.libertytreecollectors.com/productcart/pc/ltc-default.asp). They frequently have World War 2 era pouches for amazing prices.
That's definitely a huge help, although i don't have any canvas pouches either, i may be able to find some cheap ones and mod the heck out of them.
Thanks!
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Any time, vod!
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A little assistance from the pros please.... i am now attaching the armor but have a feeling the ab plate is slightly wide? do I need to trim the upper section to fit between the pecs or another suggestion?
thanks!
(http://i.imgur.com/lWXnX6I.jpg)
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Spot on deduction, upper section of the ab is indeed the best bit to adjust :) Best if you wear it and get somebody else to mark where to trim then you know it fits perfectly when on you.
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Also, it appears that the chest plates are rotated slightly towards the center of your torso. See the area around the diamond? On the top the chest plates are a bit farther apart than on the bottom. If you can get your chest plates evened up, that will help, too.
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Thanks again guys, here is changes I have made please let me know if this spacing looks acceptable before permanent adhesion
(http://i.imgur.com/hjOE3AX.jpg)
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Still need the trim on the ab. Rotation has also changed the spacing between chest and collar a little. Last little tweaks are the biggest pain to do as they really do need to be marked while on you than on a dummy otherwise you could find you overtrim in places.
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thanks for that Kris, however If I alter the direction of the pecs to match the collar, that will throw off the middle piece spacing because the bottom will be closer and top will pull out.... hmmmm should i trim the top of the pecs a little to match that shape/spacing of the collar?
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Sorry, yes, didn't clarify that trimming the new gap was what I meant.
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Made some adjustments by trimming ab plate and moving pecs and collar dimensionally. My RT peck may look like it's passing the collar but, in all actuality, it's the angle which i'll be heating it up and pressing it down more. Does this pass the bar?
(http://i.imgur.com/VMi7GBL.jpg)
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That is looking really, really good, vod. If you get that right chest piece tweaked as you mentioned, I think it'll be golden!
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thank you! ya i'm going to fix that peck tomorrow with some heat and I think it'll be good to go
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Working on my Backplate, it seems to be coming along for not having someone help me... i just need to clean up those divots, any suggestions?
(http://i.imgur.com/ZDAAn5h.jpg)
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Got the painting and weathering just about done for the front plates. Gotta do the backplate next with cod plate
(http://i.imgur.com/pi56qdW.jpg)
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So my next question to you pros is, how did you attach your backplate to your vest? is it the same procedure as the front plates or is there another method?
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Great job! And yes. The back plate gets attached the same as the front.
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Excellent thanks Erio J'uni!