Mandalorian Mercs Costume Club
Mandalorian Armor => Equipment & Accessories => Electronics => Topic started by: Fi-8015 on May 23, 2016, 05:32 PM
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Hi ner vode, I've been building simplified chest displays for a while and wanted to share the schematics with you.
It doesn't change the displayed characters, but the bar is able to play an animation.
I used this awesome resource thread at TDH: ESB Chest Display Sequence (http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f20/esb-chest-display-sequence-43686/)
Thanks to the author RafalFett!
And the base for my display is the LED Synchronizer Circuit from Dresdon's obsessive electronics+ Tutorials (http://mandalorianmercs.org/forum/index.php?topic=65425.0)
Those are great I can recommend them, thanks to Dresdon Acacin!
I tried to get as close as possible to the dimensions of the screen used display. I used Kingbright SC03 or SA03 7 segment displays for the digits and the Kingbright DC-20/20 bargraph LED for the top bar. Those have the perfect demensions.
Other components were bought from a local electronics store, depending on availability.
The list:
7 Segement Displays x5
Bargraph LED 20 points x1
47uF electrolyt capacitor x1
9 V battery clip x1
4017 decade counter IC x1
555 Timer IC x1
330 Ohm resistor x1
390 Ohm resistor x1
220 Ohm resistor x1
1 kOhm resistor x1
4,7 kOhm resistor x1
100 Ohm resistor x1
I connected the corresponding pins of the 7 segment displays to each other to display the desired digits. I split them into one group of three displays and two displays in a row with a corresponding resistor at the sides. One pole of the voltage is connected to the middle between the groups and the other one to the resistors (which one is depending on common anode or cathode).
I changed from single sided circuit boards to double sided boards to mount the components (besides the LEDs) to the backside.
Those do NOT change that's why I call it a simplified display.
This is the wiring for the displayed characters in the video a bit further down in the post (it would be best if the digits would consist of the same amount of segments):
(http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/y485/interessiertmichgarnicht/Anzeige_zpsfxhkm8zh.jpg)
The poles have to be connected to the battery corresponding to the type of displays you use (common anode or cathode). It's the same 9V battery as for the bar. The pin layout might be different, be sure to look into the datassheet(s) of your parts.
This is the schematic for the moving bar in the current version:
(http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/y485/interessiertmichgarnicht/Schaltplan%20Display%20Balken_zpsyfhjdj2z.jpg)
You can set your own animation by connecting the loose ends on the bargraph LEDs to the outputs of the 4017 IC (Q0-Q9).
The schematic for my most used animation looks like this (just realizing that I messed up the connections, so the animation would play backwards):
(http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/y485/interessiertmichgarnicht/Schaltplan%20Display%20Balken%20angeschlossen_zpskbptkaht.jpg)
With this result:
Here you can see the backside of the circuit:
(http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/y485/interessiertmichgarnicht/20150815_090531_zpsqcple0dh.jpg)
Please note: the resistor R3 is missing in this picture and I added a switch.
I hope somebody finds this useful. If you have any questions or you find mistakes feel free to ask or point them out.
Thanks for looking.
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this is sooooo out of my league (A) when My mancave is done I'm gonna try simple LED's haha
it looks really good vod.
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Looks good and if you have a variable pot you could adjust the timing on the fly by varying the resistance on the 555.
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Thanks and great idea reboot, I would recommend a 10k or more pot. You just need to solder it to wires, because it would be to big to get it under the chestplates.
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is there any way to get the lower segment display to change?
Thanks and great idea reboot, I would recommend a 10k or more pot. You just need to solder it to wires, because it would be to big to get it under the chestplates.