Mandalorian Mercs Costume Club

Mandalorian Armor => Female Armor => Female Vests/Flightsuits/Soft Parts => Topic started by: Kestra Nevhi on May 08, 2020, 01:57 AM

Title: Kestra's Soft Parts WIP Thread
Post by: Kestra Nevhi on May 08, 2020, 01:57 AM
Hello! I am Kestra Nevhi, hopeful future member of Ne'tra Vhipir Clan. Welcome to my soft parts build thread! I'm just taking some of my first steps along the way to OM-hood, and I would appreciate your guidance and advice.

I am building a modern armor kit with the Night Owls helmet style. My armor concept pictures so far are at the bottom of this post, for reference. Here is where I currently am on creating soft parts.

Flightsuit

Here is the commercial work coverall that I got off of Amazon. (Pictures were taken before I removed the collar.)

(https://i.imgur.com/t3JuW8U.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/TAEG9Ba.jpg)

Flak Vest

This is where I'm currently stuck and looking for recommendations. Following the Dented Helmet flak vest pattern drafting tutorial (https://www.thedentedhelmet.com/forums/threads/flak-vest-tutorial-draft-your-own-pattern.3550/) to the letter, and then cutting the pieces out of scrap fabric, resulted in the pictures below. I'm happy with the back piece of the vest, but the front piece turns out to be way too wide across the chest, leaving the extra fold of fabric in the picture below. (This picture was taken after I had already re-cut the neckline curve to make a hole big enough for my head to fit through - it was too small when cut out according to the pattern.)

(https://i.imgur.com/jNByGkD.jpg)

I feel the width nearer the bottom will work fine for my purposes, though.

(https://i.imgur.com/dA1QPOy.jpg?1)

For what it's worth, when I originally drafted the pattern pieces, the front piece overlapped the back piece, so I had to trace the front piece onto a second piece of tissue paper and use that to cut out the fabric. Here are the pattern pieces I ended up using.

(https://i.imgur.com/RvGqd6c.jpg)

My question is this: Is there a better tutorial out there for ladies' flight vests? What existing patterns or pattern-drafting techniques do those more experienced than I am recommend?

Armor Concept Art (for reference)

Here is an older Mando Maker picture:

(https://i.imgur.com/SWYLqT1.jpg)

And a newer one, just made tonight:

(https://i.imgur.com/Hl87F5U.jpg)

(Yes, all the teal is supposed to match on all armor pieces. I plan on going with the girth belt + loincloth from the first image in my actual build.)
Title: Re: Kestra's Soft Parts WIP Thread
Post by: Naydra on May 11, 2020, 01:01 PM
For flack vests, Iím not aware of any ladiesí tutorials, but Iíve always just made my own patterns, so I never looked very hard.

The biggest thing to keep in mind with the vest is that it needs to be form-fitting, since the armor is formed to your body, and you donít want it hanging off at odd angles. Adding princess seams in the front has always helped me, as well as vertical darts in the back from under the shoulder blades to the end.

The bottom of the vest shouldnít extend much past your belly button, since thatís where your belly plate will sit just above.

You may also want to trim the shoulders a bit, weíve had folks get dinged for baggy fabric around the arms. Cutting it off at the very crest of your shoulder is a good rule of thumb, or what I did with my vest was to make it more of a tank top style straps, as opposed to the sleeveless tshirt type thing.

Hope this helps!
Title: Re: Kestra's Soft Parts WIP Thread
Post by: n33rdysoldier on May 11, 2020, 02:48 PM
If you are on FB, look for Ladies of the Legion and they can provide assistance. I do believe that most of them dart the vest, use princess seams or use a woman's dress pattern. But kudos to you for making yours. Ended up getting mine commissioned because it was getting to be a hassle for me to pattern.
Title: Re: Kestra's Soft Parts WIP Thread
Post by: kalannadae on May 11, 2020, 10:49 PM
I don't have time tonight, but I'll DM you some stuff tomorrow. I'm new too and am planning on making my own flak vest as well.

The problem with the Dented Helmet Tutorial is that those instructions are for men's bodies. Females have a few different things to account for ;) But I own a copy of the Costume Technician's Handbook (where the Dented Helmet's post got their pattern) and so I've got the instructions of the measurements and drafting for a female body block. Fair warning, it's a lot more complicated. The men's instructions are about a page and a half, and the women's is 5+. (Hence why I can't do it tonight.)

I've done it once before, and it works fairly well, it's just fairly form fitting so you'll probably need to add some ease in places, which can be a bit tricky.

If I end up not DMing you tomorrow, poke me.
Title: Re: Kestra's Soft Parts WIP Thread
Post by: Ca'tra Talyc on May 15, 2020, 11:55 AM
Supplies:
- big roll of paper
- measuring tape
- ruler
- pencil
- optional but helpful: French curve, assistant

http://trantanphat.com/tailoring/drafting/d_fr_bod_sloper.html

There are various websites and tools for drafting a bodice sloper, so feel free to google if you donít like this one.

The alternative would be to make a tape dummy. I actually prefer the paper sloper myself.

Remember to add ease and seam allowances! But darts and/or princess seams are necessary to accommodate curves.
Title: Re: Kestra's Soft Parts WIP Thread
Post by: Bel Tay'haai on May 16, 2020, 09:33 PM
Supplies:
- big roll of paper
- measuring tape
- ruler
- pencil
- optional but helpful: French curve, assistant

http://trantanphat.com/tailoring/drafting/d_fr_bod_sloper.html

There are various websites and tools for drafting a bodice sloper, so feel free to google if you donít like this one.

The alternative would be to make a tape dummy. I actually prefer the paper sloper myself.

Remember to add ease and seam allowances! But darts and/or princess seams are necessary to accommodate curves.

This is awesome, thank you so much!