Mandalorian Mercs Costume Club

Mandalorian Armor => Soft Parts => Topic started by: Starling on Feb 17, 2021, 02:51 PM

Title: Dívash Tracinya soft parts WIP
Post by: Starling on Feb 17, 2021, 02:51 PM
Hereís my armor build thread and general planning.

I have a pants pattern, some basic sewing knowledge, and a shirt pattern and elastic on the way! I have not started on anything yet but Iíve got a couple of questions starting off.

1: how do I add thumb holes to my shirt sleeves? Should I extend the sleeve pattern and leave a hole in the seam? Do I cut a new hole? How do I hem the hole? *confused Iíve-never-modified-a-pattern-before noises*
2: what material should I use the flight suit? Iíd prefer something softer and not super difficult to work with. (Aka, can I get away with just a basic knit fabric?)
3: what are the different kinds of flak vests, and what are the benefits of each? Quilted vs unquilted, cap sleeves, leather vs regular fabric, etc.
4: how do I attach Velcro (or some other method of armor attachment) to a finished flak vest?
5: Velcroís an acceptable attachment method for things as long as itís not visible, right?

Thatís all for now! Once I get the fabric Iíll put some pics here, same when I start sewing.
Title: Re: Dívash Tracinya soft parts WIP
Post by: Starling on Feb 19, 2021, 09:32 PM
The shirt pattern just arrived! Iíll figure out how much and what type of fabric tomorrow. Shopping trip might be moved a week though!
Edit: this pattern is kinda complex, weíll see how many tries the shirt takes me
Title: Re: Dívash Tracinya soft parts WIP
Post by: Starling on Feb 24, 2021, 02:28 PM
Knit fabrics are ok for flight suits, right?
Also, are there any pattern modifications that I should make for amor-mounting later?
Title: Re: Dívash Tracinya soft parts WIP
Post by: Vercopaanir on Feb 26, 2021, 08:21 AM
Starling!  I just saw your posts.  Yes knits can be used but if your going to mount any armor to it directly  you will probably have to reinforce it as most knits cannot support the weight without pulling or sagging. 

In answer to your question about modification for later you need to think about armor mounting, temperature, and comfort in wearing.  Also tailoring but I kinda figure you already realized that from some of you other posts.   ;)

If you are going to mount plates to the knit you'll probably need to reinfore that area.  This can be done several ways.  The fastest is to add iron on interfacing to the back of the area you are going to mount the plate.  This will prevent the fabric from stretching (good and bad)  allowing it to support the plates but now it won't stretch as well with you as you move.  You can also line your pieces (Two layers of fabric instead of one).  This however can get toasty depending on your fabrics.  There are other methods but these are the most common ones that I have seen.

For my flight suit I have exercise (Yoga) pants and a rash guard  (Both are stretchy moisture wicking materials that are on the sturdy side of kints).  The trouble with this method is color matching.

I have made my own flight suit from a stretch suiting fabric and microsuede.  It came out well but doesn't breathe as nice as my grey one.  As far as patterns go I usually stick to horseback riding gear.  Seriously, tight pants and shirts that are already designed with marks for altering built into the patterns and they are made for dense knits.  Not sure what type of pattern you're useing but those are my recommendations. 

Your thumb holes can definitely be added in the way you mentioned.  Lengthening the sleeve and leaving and area of the seam open for the thumb.  Just remember that the raw edges will need to be secured in some fashion.  This can be as simple as a bit of bias tape or with great care, hemming the seam allowance in that hole.

Flight vests!!! The bane of my existence.  Took me three tries before I got a tailored fit.  I ended up altering a vest pattern several times.  I used a high end pleather and a dense suiting knit for mine.  I used the pleather on the central section of my vest to support the weight of my plates.  My vest is also fully lined.  Real leather was considered but I decided against it for three reasons.  1) temperature, leather is lovely to wear but it can get hot.  2) Sewing, multiple layers of leather can be hard to sew through. (my machine can't handle more then two thin layers and sewing by hand can murder the finger if you don't have the correct tools) 3) Price, leather is expensive unless you are thrift store shopping and get lucky with a leather jacket that you can successfully modify into a vest.

Quilted vests provide a bit of extra padding, the trade off is that quilted vests, by design, are meant to hold heat.  This can be down played by a very thin lining layer and lightweight fabrics but somthing to consider.

Duck cloth is a common vest fabric.  It is sturdy enough to support the armor on its own and breathes better than leather/pleather.  Most people go this route.  It also wears nicely, gets softer as you use it so that it move where you move (very stiff at first).

Sleeves or no...I went without true sleeves on my vest.  The cap sleeves were too restricting when they were fitted.  This was because of the fabric I chose.  A good stretch will not do this but I was using my pleather.  I ended up using a darted rectangle-ish shape to secure my shoulders.  Again fabric and what type of shoulder your using will affect this.

Velcro is good when not visible.  Most use sew on velcro, stays on better and can be removed and replaced when worn out.  I personally hate the sound of velcro opening and closing and the constant 'crunchy' noise that it can make.  So I only have two places that have velco that I have to open and close.  (The shoulder on my vest and the front closure on my sash.  The rest of the plates are secured using butterfly pins (I replaced the typical back with locking backs) and magnets. 

One last piece of advise...When measuring yourself to determine your size on a pattern use the size that matches your largest is easy to take fabric away much harder to add it in.

And remember to have fun!  :cookie:
Title: Re: Dívash Tracinya soft parts WIP
Post by: Starling on Feb 26, 2021, 10:56 PM
Thank you for all the advice!!!
The reason Iím thinking of knit fabric is a) I hate most woven fabric for my clothing XD and b) the shirt pattern recommends knit and I know itíll work for the pants. Temperature isnít a huge problem, since Iím insane enough to be out in the sun in full riding gear (helmet, boots, pants, gloves) in the middle of the summer, so Iím 90% Iíll be ok with a heavier knit. I think.  :laugh:
I think armor mounting is the big thing where Iím kinda ďaaaaa!Ē about it, since Iíve literally never done anything like it before. My current idea is a combination of Velcro, gluing on/making pockets for magnets, and butterfly pins is brilliant so I might use that. Also maybe Chicago screws. I donít know! Iíll try to get some parts actually together before I start freaking out about attachment methods. My main worry is that since Iím going to just buy a custom flak vest that I wonít be able to add the Velcro/magnets/whatever for armor mounting.
Title: Re: Dívash Tracinya soft parts WIP
Post by: Vercopaanir on Mar 02, 2021, 11:35 AM
Starling keep moving forward.  Attachment methods can change depending on the piece your using.  I have a little bit of everything.  Elastic and bathing suit clips on the side of my vest.  Velcro on my shoulder vest seam and kama, Chicago screws on my shoulder and hand plates.  Leather straps on my shnees, magnets and butterfly clips on my front plates and just magnets on my backplate.  I didn't even have a plan for mounting my main body armor till right at the end.  Build what you like and think about how it's gonna wear and how much pressure it will be under.  That is how I decided to do my plates. 

And adding to an already made vest is easy.  Sewing small pockets on the inside  (especially if it is lined) can be done without much effort at all.  Just some careful planning for placement.   Definitely get some stuff together.  It will make more sense with things in hand to mess with when making theses decisions.  This is the Way.   :mcq1: :like:
Title: Re: Dívash Tracinya soft parts WIP
Post by: Starling on Mar 02, 2021, 05:31 PM
Ok! So basically: get stuff together before worrying XD

Update: I still havenít bought fabric. I think Iím putting it off because Iím worried about messing up
Title: Re: Dívash Tracinya soft parts WIP
Post by: Starling on Mar 23, 2021, 10:39 AM
I will get fabric.... eventually.
I should probably start by just cutting out my patterns so itís less intimidating to start.
Title: Re: Dívash Tracinya soft parts WIP
Post by: Starling on Jan 13, 2022, 09:40 AM
i finally bought my fabric! im testing my patterns first because i couldnt get enough to make mistakes but im really excited!
Title: Re: Dívash Tracinya soft parts WIP
Post by: Starling on Feb 14, 2022, 12:08 PM
well my pants pattern is too small.. im glad i have a backup but if that ones not the right size too im screwed in terms of pants
Title: Re: Dívash Tracinya soft parts WIP
Post by: Kuyan Jaiígalaar on Feb 14, 2022, 09:33 PM
Oh no!! Thatís sad to hear but itís good you have a backup.

Alternatively, have you thought about adding panels in the sides of the pants to make them a little bigger? Sort of like Hanís bloodstripes, how itís an extra strip that runs down the side.
Title: Re: Dívash Tracinya soft parts WIP
Post by: Starling on Mar 03, 2022, 05:45 PM
so i was able to salvage my test pants, sort of. i added big cuffs to the end (now theyre too wide past my calf but theyre pajama pants anyways!) buuut they dont fit very well around my hips/thighs, although i also made the elastic too big so i need to fix that, im also thinking of adding a strip or triangle of fabric to the back seam to add some more material? overall this is super experimental but at lest my quality has gone up! ive been making just plushes mostly for over a year. im a little scared to start my flighsuit tbh but i might be going to my first armor party next month! so i want to have some stuff to show