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[Zando]

Hello everyone, I'm new to this forum so feel free to correct any mistakes or policy violations by yours truly. I think I'm going out on a limb here, but would it be possible to make a full metal replica of a Blas-Tech A280-CFE, as used by Cassian Andor in Rogue One? I want to create non-firing replica (stress on the non-firing, as I know you can't take a firearm to a Star Wars convention or trooping event, and wouldn't want to), and was wondering if I can legally make a replica prop using parts from a real AR. Before anyone starts freaking out, It wouldn't have the capability of firing in the first place. I want to get a metal, or possibly polymer, AR-15 Upper, an unfinished lower, and various other parts to make the basic blaster. I can research and find out how to make everything (warning, I'm a newbie), but I don't know if it's legal to use an unfinished lower on a prop. From what my uncle told me as he was building up an AR-10, including an unfinished lower, the lower is the part that classifies it as a firearm, and you don't need a license or background check to buy an unfinished one. From what I read on the internet, once you drill it out and install a firing mechanism, it becomes a real gun and you have to have a license, bla bla bla. As I'm 17, that's not possible right now. the crux of it is: can I put in a functioning trigger (for a realistic feel and action) without any other kind of firing mechanism? So basically, the trigger isn't attached to anything, it's just there to pull and to go "click", or possibly activate an electric kickback mechanism or sound effect? Is that legal, or am I better off with going with an airsoft gun and making it so it can't shoot? Thanks for reading my long message, and any clarifying questions, or criticisms are appreciated. Also, what's the plural of vod? I thought it was vode, but I'm not sure.

[Darth_Vemon]

I am building a modified A280-CQB (close quarters blaster) using real world AR parts.  I have a stripped upper and a welded AR-9 lower.  The upper where the bolt would go is filled with PVC tubing.  It does not have a buffer or recoil spring, bolt or real barrel.  Others have used airsoft M16s, but so far I don't think anyone else has used real components.  I've built 3 ARs, and had plenty of spare parts.  The only issue I see is using a (potentially) functional lower, as that is the serially controlled part that ATF considers the actual firearm
  So unless it was demiled, like my welded AR-9, it could land you in some hot water. If nothing else, con management may deny you entry.  Just something to consider.

Just to reiterate, even a stripped lower is considered a firearm, requiring a background check, even without a fire control group.

  80% lowers are another story, and could be used without any legal recourse, because they cannot house any components without extensive milling.  They are basically a solid block of plastic or aluminum in the rough shape of an AR lower.

Being you are a minor, and if you really want to have the A-280 as modular as Cassians, including the pistol form, I'd avoid any confusion or legal issue and use an airsoft. 

[Zando]

Just to reiterate, even a stripped lower is considered a firearm, requiring a background check, even without a fire control group.

  80% lowers are another story, and could be used without any legal recourse, because they cannot house any components without extensive milling.  They are basically a solid block of plastic or aluminum in the rough shape of an AR lower.

Being you are a minor, and if you really want to have the A-280 as modular as Cassians, including the pistol form, I'd avoid any confusion or legal issue and use an airsoft.

Thanks for the advice vod, and sorry for the mixup in terms. I meant an 80% lower. I was thinking to hollow it out just enough for a trigger assembly that is not attached to any type of firing mechanism or anything, it just moves back and forth. Though you make a good point that it's not a good idea to try and scrape by, just go with what I know for certain should work ( and is legal). I just want to make sure I build something that can take a beating.

And do you have any idea what is used for the small barrel on the end of the blaster? It's the part the long barrel slides over. They have a lot of info over on the RPF: http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=263965, but they don't know what the barrel thingy on the end is.

And does anyone have any recommendations on what airlift gun to use as a base? If building a A280 is too complicated, I was thinking of taking something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Soft-Thompson-M1A1-Full-Metal-airsoft/dp/B001B4QVMA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482163123&sr=8-2&keywords=thompson+airsoft, a WWII Thompson machine gun, and modding it to be more like a Star Wars blaster. It should work well, as many Star Wars guns are based off of WWII guns. I also have always loved the look of the Thompson.

[Darth_Vemon]

If using an 80% lower, that should be fine.  Instead of milling out the fire control group pocket, maybe just epoxy a fixed trigger in place.  That way, the only milled area would be for the pivot and takedown pins to attach the upper.  Using a stripped AR upper offers no legal hurdles, and an 80% lower with only the pin holes milled out would work just fine.

Although, I would love to see what you come up with if you alter a Thompson.  That's one of my favorite guns, too.

[Zando]

Hhmmm... I might just keep an eye on Jalek Karr's thread, as he is building an A280-CFE. He seems to be a lot farther along than me, so I might get the Thompson and modify it to be a fully automatic blaster, and then build an A280 later to use for sniper duties. Though once I get my costume done, turn 18, and get approved, I'll have to decide which to take to trooping events, as I can't take both. Or maybe I could leave the firing macha ism on the Thompson in place so it can still be used for a reenactment type of airsoft gun, and build an A280 for trooping an othe MMCC events.

[Fenris Claddanna]

I would strongly recommend that you not use real steel receivers. Not so much from a convention/club viewpoint, but from a legality viewpoint. Depending on where you troop, some states consider a "stripped" firearm to still be a firearm. In other states, it's a grey area. Convention-wise, it can also be a sticky situation. Some don't even like allowing demilled nerf guns in the building, let alone anything made from real steel parts.

My advice would be to purchase an airsoft metal body kit and build off of that. G&P makes a good one, Dytac, Echo1, JG, and A&K all offer decent-ish kits and complete rifles that are full-metal. Just stay away from APS, as they tend to be low-quality.

[Zando]

Thanks Fenris, I'll look into the airsoft guns. Though I might just go with the Thompson I mentioned earlier and mod it. It should work well, as it's from the same era/war most other Star Wars guns are from. Should I build one for trooping though? It's a few months still till I'm old enough to apply, and I still haven't started on my armour, though I'm working on my gloves and have the templates and materials for a paper/cardboard/fibreglass helmet. It just seems like a waste to buy a brand new airsoft gun and mod it so it can't shoot. It'd be handy to have a working airsoft gun and see if anyone wants to try Mando style airsoft? Or would visors and armour get dented and cracked?

[Darth_Vemon]

Time is on your side, vod.  If you decide not to go with an 80% AR lower, try to find a broken Thompson airsoft.  No point in shelling out good money for something you're essentially going to break. 

[Vraeden]

You can use pretty much any canon Star Wars weapon except a lightsaber.  The A280 from ROTJ (the Rebel Endor commando blaster rifle) is essentially a kit-bashed M-16 that had some greebles fabricated and added on.  The A280/293/300 variants from Rogue One are cut-down and cannibalized versions of the same.

I built an A280 using an airsoft M-16 I bought off Amazon for less than  $30 and a cast resin kit I bought from a guy on the Rebel Legion forums (DarthHair) for $85.  You'll also need about $4 worth of PVC pipe, some screws and paint.  My build thread is here and it has links to YouTube videos on how to put the kit together with an airsoft gun.  I suppose you could use an actual gun as the base (it's what they did in the movies, after all), but I don't know that it would be cost efficient to go that route instead of airsoft.

For my blaster, I gutted the firing mechanism and plugged up the barrel with a dowel rod, so there's no chance of it being able to fire, but I did preserve the spring in the trigger to give it the appearance of the firing action (the safety will also lock the trigger).

I recommend that you use an airsoft gun as the base for the reasons listed above, plus a plastic frame will weigh less (which you'll notice if you spend a day lugging your blaster around a con).

[Fenris Claddanna]

You're very welcome, ner vod. If you're concerned about buying an airsoft gun just to gut it, I would recommend looking through the various airsoft retailers' boneyard sections, since those are typically non-working, RMA'd, or display items that they're looking to get rid of on the cheap. You could also check out r/airsoftmarket for some good deals as well.

Personally, I see no reason not to go ahead and start on your blaster. Even if you're not 18 yet, it doesn't mean you can't work on your kit. Just be sure to keep your local Ruus'alor in the loop with your build.

As far as playing airsoft in full beskar'gam, probably not the best of ideas. Almost all fields require eye protection to be ballistics impact rated, and I've actually punched through 3mm sintra(one of the more common armour materials) with a .28g bb at 320fps(about 1.3j). That being said, if you do decide to do it, be safe, and take lots of video/photos. There's at least a few of us Mercs that lurk on the airsoft subreddit, all of whom would most likely be interested in seeing that.

[Straka Zulu]

And if you do play, be sure that the visor is impact rated for it, too.  Not sure if a standard 'shade 5' welding visor can withstand repeated hits.

[Zando]

Yeah, I'd make sure and test my armor, helmet, and face shield without me inside them to see how they stand up.  Though if I decide to try and make a helmet for airlift, couldn't I rip the visor out of an airlift face mask and tint it?

[Straka Zulu]

Would be worth trying... 

[Echo Darklighter]

The specifications on the CRLs say that any modded airsoft/ weapons must be rendered "non-firing."  As to how you interpret "does not shoot" is completely up to you, but doesn't necessarily mean you have to destroy the weapon.

And no, Mando armor blows for airsoft.  It's too restrictive.  Trust me, I've tried.

[Zando]

The specifications on the CRLs say that any modded airsoft/ weapons must be rendered "non-firing."  As to how you interpret "does not shoot" is completely up to you, but doesn't necessarily mean you have to destroy the weapon.

And no, Mando armor blows for airsoft.  It's too restrictive.  Trust me, I've tried.

If I had a firing airsoft gun, I wouldn't attempt to take it to a trooping event or use it as part of my costume application.

And maybe I could make a lighter set of armour, think a male version of Sabine, to play airsoft in. That way it wouldn't be to unwieldy, and I would have enough weight shaved off to beef up the individual plates.