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 Bo-Katan from Rebels S4 build

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Kryamla Redalur


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Re: Bo-Katan from Rebels S4 build
« Reply #15 on: Sep 12, 2017, 03:21 PM »
Wow! Looking great so far! :)

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GoldenCat


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Re: Bo-Katan from Rebels S4 build
« Reply #16 on: Sep 12, 2017, 05:57 PM »
Thank you all for those great words :kiss:

some mistakes in english might be here, it's past midnight here, sooo don't blame to much, ok? :)

Right now I'm working on the soft parts and the jetpack, while waiting for a right gray color to arrive at my doorstep by mail. For now, no awesome pics to share, I'm afraid.. But here is one blurry shot of me trying up the chest parts to see if they fit right.


And I have two questions for you to discuss.
1) The main color of the  flightsuit. In comparrison to Sabine's flightsuit it's the same or even darker color, just shinier, while the vest is completly black.

And I know it's okay if the main flightsuit color for Sabine is black (it's written in the CRL).
So the question here - Does dark gray/almost black is going to be okay for Bo, of course with the vest being darker, as black as the blackest night?

2) This one is a bit tricky.

At first I thought that she only has a shin armor on front, and at the back there are just straight black boots that goes over to the shin. But then I found the image that showed Bo from the left side and I'm no longer sure that this is the case. I lighten up the image and found out that on the back of the boot there's something dark grayish, like another part of the shin armor. And researching this style on other costumes I found out that it might not be the case either.
Why it's not a complete shin armor that covers the whole leg? We can see the complete armor on the female Mandos from clan Wren and there're no seems that indicated that the piece on the back of the boot is separate for them as well.
 
And I couldn't  find a good image, but I noticed that many costumes in Rebel have two layers on their boots - one that covers a foot and other that covers the shin. So my idea here is to make this two layered boots with foot layer to be black and the shin layer to be dark grayish and then mount the shin armor at front as it should be. This might sound a bit confusing, but it makes sense while looking on the ref. pics. So please, let me know what you think!


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GoldenCat


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Re: Bo-Katan from Rebels S4 build
« Reply #17 on: Sep 15, 2017, 07:45 AM »
And hello to you all once again ;)
I updated my analysis post - http://mandalorianmercs.org/forum/index.php?topic=139856.msg1788693#msg1788693
I used glow text to highlight everything I added or changed. Also I replaced some of the images because I took more clear screenshots and found new references.

As for my build, I started painting! Yay, love that part. I'm repainting the helmet, already fixed my rangefinder and ears to match the new ref pics. As soon as I finish with weathering I'm going to upload more clear and detailed photos. I don't really like sharing the progress step by step because I don't always sure if I like the result, so my progress thread is might seem so rushed.





Right now my to-do list:
  • finish weathering of all parts, 
  • finish the jetpack (it's like 40% finished right now),
  • soft parts (they're on 50%)
  • boots (~70%) and then all atachments!

My deadline is next week, because the con I want to attend to sort of test this in the field is at the end of September.  I feel quite good with what've done already and so badly want to wear this!

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Kryamla Redalur


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Re: Bo-Katan from Rebels S4 build
« Reply #18 on: Sep 15, 2017, 12:19 PM »
I like how you did that back plate, very neat!

Paint is looking good :)

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GoldenCat


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Re: Bo-Katan from Rebels S4 build
« Reply #19 on: Sep 17, 2017, 10:14 AM »
I like how you did that back plate, very neat!
Thank you! I realised I never posted the back plate progress before. I made a template myself from paper first (sort of try smt, fix it, try again and etc.) and then moved it to sintra. Here is how it looked:

After I bent it over my shoulders I saw that it wasn't so fitting, so I decided to do two darts like this .
And it turned out quite well 

Also about the jetpack.. It's a real pain for me ???. I made my TCW jetpack from scratch and it looked fine from a distance, a very far distance...When I made it last year, I soon saw that it was too tall. So this time I needed a brand new jetpack - Bo's jetpack is a bit different version of Boba's Z-6 jetpack. I drew this illustration of how I need to transform my exicting jetpack into a whole different model.
And I tore my previous jetpack to pieces, like all I had left was the main wall and three tubes. This is my progress on the jetpack for 1,5 week.

There so much yet to be done, I'm a bit tired and I actually want to do a full painting and see how it works. Because I believe so many thing could be covered by weathering. And if I don't like it in the end - then I'll fix whatever needs fixing.

UPD:
Also a question - I'm considering to use for the boots my standard Imperial officer's boots. I tried to see how the armor will look, it seems okay, I think.. Should shorten the boots a bit, but overall it's good?? Let me know what you think because if I'm going to use them on Bo it means that I won't be able to use them for my Juno anymore and I want at least a second, mb even a fifth opinon..


« Last Edit: Sep 17, 2017, 04:31 PM by GoldenCat » Logged
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GoldenCat


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Re: Bo-Katan from Rebels S4 build
« Reply #20 on: Sep 26, 2017, 07:19 AM »
Remember how I wanted to finish everything at least to a wearable state by the end of the September? Well here I am! (at least I'm close to it, I still have 2 days before the convention). Today I tried everything on myself for the first time - yay! It helped me to remember all the small things I left for the later and never finished. So today I'm finishing some details. But here is how it looks right now:



I'm thinking about placing the jetpack a bit higher, and I need to add straps on the thigh armor, attach those small trapeze pieces to the boots. Btw, the boots. I love them, I made my shin armor from two pieces - one back dark gray piece and the other is the main one on front and I think it's looks like it supposed to be. Also don't mind the colors, I have bad lightning near my mirror, so it's harder to see that the suit is lighter that the vest (the vest might seem a bit baggy but I just need to iron it).

I'm going to fix what I want today, then wear the whole thing again and I hope to post more pictures today later or at least tomorrow morning.

And Update ^^
Here is how it looks now (don't mind the wig, I was trying to take off the helmet and realized that the wig won't hold very well, like no awesome shots taking off helmet right now):


I'm going to leave it like here for the event this weekend and then wait for the episode to air.

« Last Edit: Sep 26, 2017, 12:39 PM by GoldenCat » Logged
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Myra Tiin


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Re: Bo-Katan from Rebels S4 build
« Reply #21 on: Sep 29, 2017, 11:08 AM »
 :o  Super impressed with your speed ! You got this like a boss at wearable state, congrats !

Not only it fits really well, but yout kit is also really accurate. Can't wait to see more pics from your event :)

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Ty'renn Argos


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Re: Bo-Katan from Rebels S4 build
« Reply #22 on: Sep 29, 2017, 11:25 AM »
Okay.
SImply awesome.

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Re: Bo-Katan from Rebels S4 build
« Reply #23 on: Sep 30, 2017, 09:22 AM »
Woah! You've seriously rocked this build! Looks amazing!

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GoldenCat


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Re: Bo-Katan from Rebels S4 build
« Reply #24 on: Oct 08, 2017, 04:00 AM »
Thank you all for your kind words!

It's been a week since the convention where I was testing this costume for three days. I was so worried about the costume, that for some time I debated if I should wear it at all. But I love that I sort of take everything under control the day before the convention and crafted the head band.
What more can I say - so many things to change and improve! But for now let me share a few pics with you, sadly this darksaber not mine and on some pics my wig is a mess because it was a constant "buckets on" and "buckets off".




My main concerns:
- mount a jetpack higher
- maybe shorten the backplate a bit
- shorten the chest plates and with this everything below them will go higher
- craft westars so then I could modify my thigh armor to be smaller, but still have functional holsters.
- mb completely re-sew the suit, because I think it should be more grayish.
- on the third day I couldn't find my neck seal, so I would like to make a collar on the suit to never face this problem again.
Of course, for all the changes I will wait for the episode to air. Just a week of waiting, but then - back to work! I still have a few questions regarding some of the armor parts, but they're going to be solved with enough ref pics.
With the help of photoshop I made a small comparisson to help figuring out what I need to change. And how much I hate this cartoon style with small torso and long legs.. This is where my problem with proportions came in. My upper body is shaped differently and that's why my chest plates are big. And my legs aren't so long, but I wanted to have functional holsters - this is why my thigh armor is so much bigger that in the ref pics. Here are some adjustments that I think I can do to make things more screen-accurate.


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Re: Bo-Katan from Rebels S4 build
« Reply #25 on: Oct 09, 2017, 03:03 AM »
Loving this. Keep it up!

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GoldenCat


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Re: Bo-Katan from Rebels S4 build
« Reply #26 on: Oct 13, 2017, 04:47 AM »
Reference time!
I was offline for a few days and only today I found out how much content we now have, even if the episodes will air next week. And it's more than enough for me to start on some changes I wanted to make, but first I need to make a change to the list of those changes xD
Some good screencaps:







And something I have been waiting for a loooong time:


Changes^^
- mount a jetpack higher
- shorten the backplate a bit and add a dark gray area to it.
-  ?? shorten the chest plates and with this everything below them will go higher
- craft the westars so then I could modify my thigh armor to be smaller, but still have functional holsters. And overall fix the thigh armor to be more accurate.
- No re-sew. Her suit appears almost black as mine, so I will only make a decant gray color pattern.
- Make a collar.
- EXTENSIVE WEATHERING. Sorry for caps, but I'm looking at this images and can't wait to do all the damage  xD
- Helmet ears should be fixed. No circles, those details are more of squares with circled tops. And lower part of the ears is painted dark gray.
- Belt: Small detail on the buckle, also the larger belt have small lines on it, to simulate a girth belt.
- Make a missile for the jetpack. It seems like most of the episode Bo won't have it, but I think it should be made for approval.
And this is it. If you have any more suggestions, I will be happy to hear them :)

« Last Edit: Oct 13, 2017, 04:58 AM by GoldenCat » Logged
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GoldenCat


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Re: Bo-Katan from Rebels S4 build
« Reply #27 on: Oct 29, 2017, 11:16 AM »
Updating my breakdown of the costume ;) I started weathering the helmet and fixing my thigh armor to have more accurate parts.. And I realised that my old analysis needs update after the episodes. And because I'm adding new ref pics, new text, I decided to post it in a separate post. Also check the "jetpack" part, I made a missile an optional item and I want to know what you think!


•   Helmet 
      o   Must have a dark colored, full one piece "T" visor.
      o   Must have a dark gray rangefinder "Rebels"-style (see Sabine's rangefinder for more detail) and stalk on the right side of the helmet.
      o   The mandibles and fore head must be a white color.
      o   The upper cheeks must be a darker blue/dark gray color.
      o   The key slot area and rear rim must be middle-dark gray.
      o   Both blues must match the visual references as closely as possible in similar lighting.
      o   The dome, lower cheeks, and the back of the helmet must be blue in color.
      o   The helmet must be weathered and should match the visual references as closely as possible.
      o   Painting: Two light grey circle-like shapes on each side on top of t-shaped visor. The mandibles must have a slightly visible light gray pattern (weathering). Must have the large “V” logo at the center of the forehead that is black in color. Also 5 small black lines that start from the beginning of white area at dome. They end before the V logo.
      o   The stalk of the range finder should be lowered into the ear piece on the right side of the helmet and has a dark gray/black piece (it's basically a square with rounded top corners) on top of it. On the left ear there must be identical piece.
      o   There is a vertical line present on top of the ear pieces on both sides of the helmet. It should be light gray in color with a thin black lining.
      o   The blue cheeks should be rounded at the top unlike the more tapered cheeks of Boba Fett.


•   Flightsuit
      o   Must be a cotton or cotton blend stretch material two-piece garment being black/ dark charcoal grey with a medium grey pattern. The pattern should match the reference.
      o   Must be single sleeved with long sleeves going under the forearm gauntlets.
      o   Must have no visible zippers or openings.
      o   Must allow for the attachment of cod, knee and holster armor.
      o   Pants must be tight and have a medium grey section going from the hips to the boots.
      o   Must include a turtleneck or tight neck seal on the neck.


•   Flak vest
      o   Must be almost black in color (should be darker than the main color of the flightsuit).
      o   Must be as seamless as possible.
      o   Shoulders must not flare outward like wings and must end just under the shoulder armor.
      o   Must allow for the attachment of chest, back, belly, and shoulder armor.
      o   Must be short and end before the belt.


•   Gloves and hand armor
      o   Must be dark gray almost black in color and of a thin, soft material. Same or similar to the material used for the flight suit and worn tucked underneath the gauntlets.
      o   No visiable attachments of hand armor to the gloves.
      o   Hand armor - small pieces, rectangular shaped with cut off angles (so overall there must be 8 angles), armor slightly curves to follow the shape of the hand. Lower side of the armor coinsides with lower side of the trapezee shape that placed on the armor.



•   Gauntlets  (Identical to Ursa's gauntlets and other Female Mando's from Clan Wren, only different color)
      o   Must be Animated Female Clan Wren style armor.
      o   Must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, resin, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
      o   Must be blue in color and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
      o   Must have a thin seam on the inner side of the gauntlets.
      o   The right gauntlet must contain the following components as shown in the visual references:
                       • 5 Buttons on the top. Same size vertical rectangles one lime and two yellow in a row, then a green perpendicular  below the first row. Then a large yellow trapeze closer to a wrist opening. Two vertical slights on the outside of the blasters for exploding. A slit for hidden knife to be expelled (over wrist opening).
                       • There must be a light gray rectangular on the outer and inner side of the protruding part of the gauntlet.
      o   The left gauntlet must have three forward facing darts in front near the section, one more dart in the middle and two illuminated buttons on the top. One yellow and one lime - identical in shape and size.
Another platform on the outside of the gauntlet, smaller than the main one. Slightly protrudes from the cuff, has two sections, the one farther from the wrist - above. There are 3 buttons on it - one yellow vertically placed rectangle, the other two smaller, lime colored, horizontally arranged rectangles.
                       • There must be a dark gray / black rectangular on the outer and inner side of the protruding part of the gauntlet



•   Chest Armor 
      o   Consists of left and right breast plates, a center diamond and an abdominal plate.
      o   Must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
      o   Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
      o   Must be gray in color and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
      o   Center diamond plate between breast plates must have an indented vertical rectangle as shown in visual references that is a bit darker grey then the main chest armor.
      o   All armor must attach securely to the vest with proper spacing and be appropriately sized to the wearer.


•   Back Armor
      o   Must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
      o   Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
      o   Must curve on the shoulders and end at front imitating collar armor.
      o   Must be blue and gray in color - gray is the central area of the back and some can be seen on curved parts at front) and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage..
      o   Must attach securely to the back of the vest.


•   Shoulder
      o   Must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
      o   Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
      o   Must curve around the upper arm and shoulder.
      o   Must be blue in color and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
      o   Both shoulders must feature matching round, black and white Nite Owl sigils. Design must match visual references.


• Belt
      o   Must be made of leather or similar materials and brown in color.
      o   Must consist two pieces – one is wide and approximately 3 inches wide and the other is almost two times smaller and placed at the center over the first one.
      o   The larger belt should have horizontal lines on it to simulate a girth belt.
      o   Belt have no visible seam that could be covered by one of the pouches. Heavy duty velcro is recommended for durability. The small belt secures via metal rectangular buckle at front.
      o   Must include four equally sized pouches (two on each side) approximately 2 inches wide and 3.5 inches tall attached to belt

•   Codpiece
      o   Cod armor is made of three separate pieces.
      o   The three pieces must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
      o   Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
      o   Must be gray in color and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
      o   Must be worn below the belt.


•   Thigh Armor
      o   Must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
      o   Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
      o   Must be curved to fit snugly over thighs.
      o   Must be gray in color and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
      o   There should be thin dark gray line pattern (see the ref).
      o   Must attach securely on the thighs of the flightsuit.
      o   There should be a thin cut in the middle of the top part of the thigh armor that goes to the holsters.
      o   Thigh must include holsters located on the lateral sides.
      o   Holsters should appear almost separate from the armor parts.
      o   Must have a light gray ½ inch strap at the top that securely fastens around the upper thigh.


•   Knee Armor
      o   Must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
      o   Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
      o   Must be blue in color and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
      o   Must attach securely to the front of the knees over the flightsuit.


•   Shin Armor
      o   Must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
      o   Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
      o   Must be gray in color with a blue stipe down the middle and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
      o   Must attach securely to at the front over the boots.
      o   Must have a trapeze cut out of them and placed a bit lower on the boot (see boot armor for mor info).

•   Boot Armor
      o   Must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
      o   Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
      o   Must be worn securely on toe cap and back of the heels.

•   Boots
      o   Must be made of leather or similar materials with no visible zippers.
      o   The part that covers the feet must be black with the sole pattern to match as closely as possible to the animated series.The shin cover should be dark gray in color. (slightly lighter than the feet)
      o   Must be long enough to end beneath the knee.
      o   Must allow for secure attachment of armor on top of boot.
 

•   Jetpack
      o   The colors for the jetpack are: blue, light gray, medium gray, dark gray, red and tan.
      o   Must have the following main components: one center tank and two side fuel tanks, one center missile, two side mounted thrusters / nozzles, plane rectangular plate stretching horizontally through the center tank on each side of it.
      o   All patterns, colors and weathering must match visual references as closely as possible.
      o    Optional addition to the jetpack - the missile. It's present at the concept, but in two episodes it only appears for a time lesser than a minute, with no practical use - just appears out of nowhere and then just as suddenly disappears)


Facial appearance:


•  Head Band
      o   Head band is light-medium gray in color with dark/medium gray or black details around the top and sides to match visual references.
      o   Band is fitted to the wearer and extends from temple to temple; it is worn between the forehead and hair line.
      o   Band has four yellow illuminating lights; two on each temple.
•  Wig/Hair
      o   Red-orange in color.
      o   Hair is formed in a "Bob" cut that is angled shorter in the back than the front.
      o   Wig parts down the middle of the scalp.
•  Scar
      o    The scar runs diagonally from the forehead to the end of the right brow.
•  Eye color
      o   Green contact lenses.


Weapons :
•  Pair of Westars
      o   Based on a scratch-built or a modified commercial toy Westar 35 pistol.
      o   The painting on both pistols is identical and matches the usual light and medium gray color with dark gray finish on the handles and slide as seen on other mandos in Rebels. (the reference show a comparisson between Bo's pistol ans Ursa's - they're the same)


Darksaber (optional)
•  Must match visual references in color, scale, and construction. The appearance of the darksaber should match the Rebels era (it’s a bit different from the CW darksaber though it supposed to be one weapon)

« Last Edit: Oct 29, 2017, 12:21 PM by GoldenCat » Logged
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Havelock


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Re: Bo-Katan from Rebels S4 build
« Reply #28 on: Oct 30, 2017, 12:04 PM »
I've just caught up with your WiP, and I'd just like to say you're doing some amazing work.  Incredibly good job.

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Re: Bo-Katan from Rebels S4 build
« Reply #29 on: Nov 04, 2017, 12:38 AM »
Wow, you look awesom. Your work is very impressive.

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