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 restoring helmet and armor plates

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restoring helmet and armor plates
« on: Dec 05, 2017, 11:46 AM »





it's smoother , and i ve added details now time for wheatering
now the paint is fresh so it is so shiny

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Aden Banto


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Re: restoring helmet and armor plates
« Reply #1 on: Dec 05, 2017, 07:18 PM »
You'll want to add some shaping to those thigh plates. They'll be lifting up on the sides when you attach them to your jumpsuit.

The helmet is a beauty!


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NegativeEleven


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Re: restoring helmet and armor plates
« Reply #2 on: Dec 06, 2017, 06:08 PM »
Is that a foam build helmet? Is it rigid? The CRL specifically says it can't appear soft, which it kind of does in those photos. Maybe it's just the "floor mat" color that's making me think that. The little wrinkles on the forehead also kind of give that impression.

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Re: restoring helmet and armor plates
« Reply #3 on: Dec 22, 2017, 10:02 AM »
yes is foam but sealed with epoxy resin

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Kris Jasra


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Re: restoring helmet and armor plates
« Reply #4 on: Dec 23, 2017, 08:56 AM »
A foam base would require a full solid coat of fibreglass matting and resin on the outside, and then to be fully smoothed with a filler of some form (usually bondo).

It is something that can be done, however since foam does not soak up the resin it usually takes 2-3 layers of matting instead of 1-2 layers when a card stock base is used (since paper/card soak up the resin and become in effect another rigid layer).

This is also why when using foam the fibreglass has to go on the outside - if you try and sandwich the foam between fibreglass and bondo it remains squishy and leads to cracking.

The fibreglass is an uneven surface to begin bondoing on and as such it can take a lot of work to get smooth. With cardstock the fibreglass can go inside which will often mean far less sanding is required as the bondo just has to smooth off joins in the cardstock.

« Last Edit: Dec 23, 2017, 09:06 AM by Kris Jasra » Logged
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