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 Lynx's Build (Pg4. Finally, full kit!)

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Straka Zulu


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Re: Lynx's Build (Update: New pictures added of full build so far)
« Reply #30 on: Aug 12, 2018, 08:16 PM »
Put it on!!!
Put it on!!!

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Lynx7386


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Re: Lynx's Build (Update: New pictures added of full build so far)
« Reply #31 on: Aug 12, 2018, 09:39 PM »
Lol I wish I could but I have no way to attach anything yet.  Still need a flight suit, vest, gloves, boots, etc.

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Re: Lynx's Build (Update: New pictures added of full build so far)
« Reply #32 on: Aug 12, 2018, 10:52 PM »
tape works :p pretty sure most of us have pics in our wip of armor taped on lol

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Re: Lynx's Build (Update: New pictures added of full build so far)
« Reply #33 on: Aug 17, 2018, 09:35 AM »
Bluenpainters tape is a wonderful thing indeed

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Lynx7386


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Re: Lynx's Build (Update: New pictures added of full build so far)
« Reply #34 on: Aug 17, 2018, 11:24 PM »
Ok so these are the best pictures I could get tonight.  Fitting this stuff with cheap knock-off duck tape that doesnt adhere to anything, by yourself, and trying to get everything to stay in place while you take pictures with a timer, is definitely not easy.  This is the last chance I have to modify any pieces before I paint them, so I could use some comments =P

I had to take these in three sections: upper body, lower body, and then the jetpack by itself.  The jetpack is relatively heavy and I currently have no way to actually attach it to the back plate, I'm still trying to figure that out (could definitely use suggestions there).  Worst case, Once the paint is done I can actually put some screws from the inside of the back plate through into the jetpack to hold it on, but I have to find some way to also make sure that the back plate is super secure to my body so that it doesnt fall off along with the jetpack.















The backplate is, for some odd reason, riding really high in those pictures, it sits about 1-2 inches above my shoulders with a noticable gap, but I know it fits lower than that when I hold it onto my back so I think it's just a case of not being able to properly tape it into place by myself.  When combined, the bottom of the jetpack (the flat plate between the exhaust ducts) will be even with the top of the curved cutout on the bottom of the back plate.


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Re: Lynx's Build (Update: New pictures added of full build so far)
« Reply #35 on: Aug 18, 2018, 12:16 AM »
The fangs on the chest plates are sticking away from your body a bit.

It's hard to tell much about spacing given the angle of the photos, but spacing can be fixed after paint.  Before you paint the backplate... I'd get someone else to hold it on you and take side photos.  It needs to be sitting on you without airgaps.

Trim some off your thighs so they're not overlapping the knees -- I realize they slid down, but they're still goin to be crowding.  Ditto for the top of your shins interacting with the bottom of your knees.

A lot of people do  the straps and parachute clips through the backplate to the jetpack thing.  Look for some jetpack builds and you should be able to find some photos.

Lynx7386


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Re: Lynx's Build (Update: New pictures added of full build so far)
« Reply #36 on: Aug 18, 2018, 01:20 AM »
The fangs on the chest plates are sticking away from your body a bit.

It's hard to tell much about spacing given the angle of the photos, but spacing can be fixed after paint.  Before you paint the backplate... I'd get someone else to hold it on you and take side photos.  It needs to be sitting on you without airgaps.

Trim some off your thighs so they're not overlapping the knees -- I realize they slid down, but they're still goin to be crowding.  Ditto for the top of your shins interacting with the bottom of your knees.

A lot of people do  the straps and parachute clips through the backplate to the jetpack thing.  Look for some jetpack builds and you should be able to find some photos.

The fangs on the chest plates are another victim of the poor tape, when I hold them on they're very form fitting and nothing sticks out.  Same goes for the back plate, it fits pretty snug at the top and around the sides, the only spots where there's any kind of 'gap' are at the back of the arms where it curves around, but that's more because sintra doesnt do compound curves than anything.  It'll also be hidden by other parts of the armor.

I'll see what I can do about the thigh plates.  I dont want to trim the shin plates anymore (they've already been trimmed down twice and right now they feel a bit too short).  If anything, the knee plates are too tall and I could take some off the top of those.



Been a long day of painting, and I've run into a couple almost disastrous problems.  Primarily, I made the rookie mistake of using silicone to fill any gaps between my plates (as well as a couple cracks that happened while cutting the sintra), and everywhere I put silicone the paint didnt stick at all.  So, when I was doing the masking and gold layer with painter's tape, pulling the tape off pulled half of my paint off as well.  I managed to fix the majority of it by repainting those areas by hand with a brush (spraying the paint into a container and then using it as a liquid paint with a small brush).  I just hope it holds, and that once I put a clear coat on everything will be held in place for eternity.

Which brings me to a question: What clearcoat should I use?  This has all been done with rustoleum paint, both gloss and metalics, so I want a clearcoat that wont interact with them.  Last time I did a spraypaint project was on my wife's mountain bike, and when I went to spray the clearcoat it completely ruined my beautiful paint job by cracking and tearing up the paint as it dried.  Any suggestions?

The other issue is that I used petroleum jelly for all the areas where I wanted the black coat to rub off and show the silver metallic paint underneath (weathering/damage).  Problem is, now that I've wiped everything off with a rag and have my nice weathered armor, its all covered in a thin sheen of petroleum jelly that makes everything greasy.  I sure as hell cant clearcoat over that, so what can I use to remove the petroleum without damaging the paint?

Anyways, pictures of my progress so far - not pictured are the thigh plates, back plate, and boot plates, because all of those didnt have a gold coat added (they're just black gloss with the weathering/damage):















I plan to paint the exhaust nozzles for the jetpack back to a metallic silver, just havent had a chance to yet.  Unless I mask everything again I'll probably have to do that by hand.  I also still need to hand paint in all the details on the gauntlets/buttons, and add some detail to the jetpack.

« Last Edit: Aug 20, 2018, 05:19 PM by Havelock » Logged
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Re: Lynx's Build (Update: Paint done! (mostly))
« Reply #37 on: Aug 18, 2018, 08:45 PM »
Clearcoat: Stick to rustoleum since you used rustoleum paints --  I like to use a matte clearcoat to take the shiny down a bit

Petroleum jelly:  Rubbing Alochol and Warm Soapy Water are going to be the safest bets -- with WsW being safer.  But... either of them will probably take the paint off the silicone.    You may end up neededing to dig enough of it out so that you can get a layer of epoxy in that sticks to the sintra on either side of the trench.  But I may be wrong, haven't tried painting the stuff.

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Re: Lynx's Build (Update: Paint done! (mostly))
« Reply #39 on: Aug 19, 2018, 04:13 PM »
Baby wipes mate.... should shift the vaseline whilst being gentle on baby's skin makes them ideal.

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Lynx7386


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Re: Lynx's Build (Update: Paint done! (mostly))
« Reply #40 on: Aug 19, 2018, 06:44 PM »
Baby wipes mate.... should shift the vaseline whilst being gentle on baby's skin makes them ideal.

I'll try that, I have a 15 month old daughter so baby wipes are already available =p

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Re: Lynx's Build (Update: Paint done! (mostly))
« Reply #41 on: Aug 20, 2018, 05:21 PM »
As part of my moderation duties I must request that you please avoid Double Posting in the forums.  This is against forum rules as documented HERE.

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« Last Edit: Aug 20, 2018, 07:37 PM by Havelock » Logged
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Re: Lynx's Build (Update: Paint done! (mostly))
« Reply #42 on: Aug 20, 2018, 05:46 PM »
Nice work, Lynx. As far as a harness for the jetpack, I recommend this from TK-409:


Keep it up.

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Lynx7386


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Re: Lynx's Build (Update: Paint done! (mostly))
« Reply #43 on: Aug 20, 2018, 06:27 PM »
Nice work, Lynx. As far as a harness for the jetpack, I recommend this from TK-409:


Keep it up.

Just a few things...

I didnt cut the slots out from my backplate, for various reasons.  At this point, my plan is to bolt the jetpack directly to the backplate from the inside (so it will be attached without anything being visible, and then running straps from the backplate wings around my shoulders and waist.  These straps would be above the flak vest, but under any other armor plates.  I'm a bit torn between whether I should make the straps more or less visible: I could make them out of black nylon strapping like you see on backpacks, which would make it blend in with the vest material at least at a distance, or I could make them out of leather/pleather so they're visible and add detail to the kit as a whole.  Any suggestions?

The same issue goes for all of my armor plates, particularly the Cod/Kidney plate and the thigh/knee/shin plates: I want to have them attach via straps (probably velcro straps) around the back of my legs for the thigh/knee/shin plates and similar straps between the cod/kidney plate sides where they line up.  I can make these straps out of nylon or out of leather, I just dont know which route would be best.

I also havent figured out a closure mechanism for my gauntlets yet.  I was thinking of going the same route, using straps or leather and buckles to close them up on the outside.

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Re: Lynx's Build (Update: Paint done! (mostly))
« Reply #44 on: Aug 24, 2018, 09:56 AM »
Leather will be more likely to last, nylon works though.
I worry that running the straps over but under will lead to plate shifting and cause alignment issues. Your best bet is to wear the harness under the flak and do decorative straps that run outside the chest plates instead of under them and then connect them to a waist belt in order to reduce strain on your back. After a mile or two in parade a jetpack can get to be a pain.

I'd go magnets and straps so if you needed to take off the pack you dont have holes in your armor.

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