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 Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP-Approved

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Rayne


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Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP-Approved
« on: May 05, 2019, 03:34 PM »
Hello Everyone!
I’m working on my first canon kit (3rd kit as a Merc) the Dutchess Satine Rose Outfit.  I’ve spent a few month researching and trying to find as many reference images as I can. Then I spent some time ordering fabric swatches to find the correct fabrics. I think I’ve got an idea of the best ones for each part, but I want to get some feedback before I order.

Here are a couple reference photos I’ve used.





So here is what I have so far...

For the jacket, the CRL says “ Dusty rose jacket made of medium to heavyweight chenille, jacquard or brocade fabric with a fine pattern or texture.” 

1. Thin textured polyester (too thin for jacket)
2. Red magenta empress chenille (color is too dark)
3. Hand dyed rose damask (too thin for jacket and too shiny)
4. Hand dyed rose pebble (too thin for jacket and uneven color)
5. Hand dyed rose damask (too thin for jacket)
6. Chenille Empress Pink *this one is my best choice for color, thickness, and fabric type*
7. Thick Upholstery Chenille Velvet rose (color is too peach and fabric is lined with scuba backing that will not drape properly).

For the collar on the jacket, the CRL says, “Jacket has an upturned collar of dark rose fabric measuring 2” (5 cm) at the nape of the neck and tapering down, ending just under the bust. Dark rose trim roughly .75” (2 cm) wide also goes around the outside edge of the lower part the jacket.”

1. Provost Fuchsia Cotton Polyester (too thin and wrong fabric type)
2. Zenith Chenille Fuchsia (this texture isn’t correct per the reference photos)
3. Concierge Chenille Fuchsia *this one is my best color choice and is chenille like the jacket, so I think this fabric is my best choice*

I’m still working on the sleeve fabric, I’m not happy with any of the swatches I’ve found so far, so I’ll post later for the sleeves of the jacket.

For the jacket lining, the CRL says, “Jacket is lined in dark green jacquard or brocade. Lining fabric should have a paisley, cashmere, or similar pattern.”

1. Green Chinese silk brocade *this is my best choice for color, pattern, overall look compared to reference photos, and fabric type*
2. Green satin damask (too thin, color isnt correct compared to reference photos)

For the undershirt, the CRL says, “ Under the jacket is a bright yellow-green, sweetheart neckline, created from two petal pieces joined with a seam at the center.”

1. Microfiber suede Kiwi *this color matches the reference photos best*
2. Microfiber suede Celery (the color is too yellow in comparison with the reference photos)

For the pants, the CRL says,”Pants are made of medium to heavy-weight stretch fabric (suede suggested) in a dark gray-purple or dusty eggplant color. Pants should be a darker color than the boots.



1. Eggplant upholstery suede with scuba backing (the scuba backing makes this suede very thick and it not lay correctly for a pair of pants)
2. Concorde grape satin (too shiny and thin)
3. Cranberry stretch satin (too shiny and thin)
4. Eggplant purple stretch charmeuse (too shiny and thin)
5. Deep Port microsuede (wrong color)
6. Lipstick microsuede (wrong color)
7. Wine microsuede (wrong color)
8. Purple microfiber suede (wrong color)
9. Microfiber suede Aubergine (close but not darker than the boots)
10. Highbury suede Aubergine *this color is darker than the boots and matches reference photos, I think it’s my best choice*
11. Heavy suede Aubergine (close but not darker than the boots)
12. Light suede Aubergine (color is too light)
13. Deep wine microsuede (wrong color)

And finally, the CRL for the boots says, “Knee-high boots made of medium to dark gray suede or non-shiny leather.  Boots should have a low (1”-2” or 2.5 cm – 5 cm) heel that is light brown or beige in color.”

Compared to other boots I looked at when researching, this was the only part that was medium to dark gray suede with a low heel. Most of the boots I food were high heels or were the wrong color gray. I plan to paint the heel light brown or beige to match the CRL.

Here is a photo of the fabrics That best fit the reference photos and the boots together.

« Last Edit: Nov 13, 2019, 09:00 PM by Rayne » Logged
Tra'cor Clan // MMCC#1968
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Sabine


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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2019, 12:50 PM »
I'm going to agree most of your choices. I think the only two that are iffy are:
A) the jacket outer, as in the concept art there is a definite pattern. The question is, is it visible on actual screenshots? If not, you should be good to go.
B) The vest? I'm gonna call it a vest. I just don't know that a microsuede is the right fit there. Generally you wear more silky things under jackets. I'm almost looking at this like its a fancy star wars tuxedo. Something like these may be a better option: https://www.moodfabrics.com/peridot-stretch-silk-charmeuse-pv1500-139 https://www.moodfabrics.com/peridot-silk-double-georgette-pv6000-139. Interfaced and lined, either could provide a soft, but structured piece that won't cling because microfiber.

I'm going to go out on a limb and speculate that the jacket doesn't have sleeves. I think they belong to a blouse, as you can see the same pink under the jacket at the waist, and a tiny corner sticking out from the green.

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Sabine Wren S2

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Nico Fett


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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #2 on: May 23, 2019, 10:25 PM »
Oh my god I’m so excited that you’re doing this costume!!

I’m not good with input, but I wanna comment do I can see updates

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Baconboyrlz


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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #3 on: May 23, 2019, 10:33 PM »
Yes!!! It's going to be amazing! Cant wait to see more!

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Rayne


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  • Awards 15+ clan level invasions 6 or more Education Points in a single year. Brigades Award for 10 official invasions. 11+ Invasion Report Appearances
Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #4 on: May 25, 2019, 04:18 PM »
Thank you!

Ok so I think I’ve got the fabrics all figured out. After searching through a lot of samples for the sleeves, I think I found the correct fabric color and weight. I won’t list all the samples, but I tried satin, poplin, chiffon, batiste, voile, crepe, cotton, and even some athletic fabrics. None gave me the correct drape and color for the sleeves, until I found peachskin.



From the advice I received, I agree that the undershirt would be made from something more silky, so I re-thought my idea for the undershirt and found something else for the fabric. This satin is the perfect color, while being matte as the CRL states: “All colors and patterns should match visual  reference photos.  Fleece, flannel, Lycra, spandex, and any other shiny or stretchy fabrics will not be accepted unless stated otherwise.“ So these are all my choices together (minus the lining fabric).

What do you think?



Also, here are the patterns I plan to use.  I’m going to use parts of each one and customize them to work.

« Last Edit: May 26, 2019, 10:10 AM by Rayne » Logged
Tra'cor Clan // MMCC#1968
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The Armorer WIP

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Sabine


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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #5 on: May 26, 2019, 11:18 AM »
I think the peach skin and matte satin will work perfectly.  The colors are perfect! The amount of research you've done via swatches is amazing.

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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #6 on: Jun 01, 2019, 11:35 AM »
The last choices you posted are really spot on and I'm swooning over the amount of thought and research that has been put into this. I totally agree that her undershirt is a light silky luxurious fabric and I think the fabric you landed on is totally spot on. Everything you've laid out LOOKS like it would reasonably appear in one of the movies and that's pretty much the ultimate goal!

You're still using the #1 green brocade for the lining right? I think that is SO perfect, I'm really excited to see everything together.

Scary app-team disclaimer:
Remember we can't pre-approve costumes! However I'm not seeing ANYTHING in your final choices that would cause me to reject your costume based on the fabric. Everything looks really solid. It's just up to sewing/assembling now! I wish you the best of luck and again I'm so excited to see everything!

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Rayne


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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #7 on: Jul 06, 2019, 07:48 PM »
Thank you for the feedback!  I am indeed planning to use the first dark green brocade for the lining of the jacket.

I haven’t had time to work on this much.  Being an adult has taken over all my free time, but here and there I’ve made some progress on the jewelry. I found some ideas for using polymer clay to make jade and thought I’d give it a shot. I also searched all over for the correct orange-ish bronze paint for the buckle and cording. I think I’ve hit on the correct bronze and after A LOT of trial and error with the clay, I think I’ve found the right color for the jewels. Per the CRL the color of the jewels must match the lining of the jacket. “-Belt buckle is a flat gold disk approximately 2.5” (6.5 cm) across.
– The buckle is decorated with green gems the same color as the jacket lining. There is one large circular gem approximately 1” (2.5 cm) across, and six smaller teardrop shaped gems extending under it like sun rays. The teardrop gems decrease in size from the center outwards.
– There is a thick metallic orange or bronze cord or wire just under the seam of the jacket that ends under the central buckle. The cord/wire turns down at a right angle under the bust, then turns horizontal again. The cord/wire curve turns upward again at the sides of the jacket and sits just below the waist line at the back of the jacket. The same cord/wire and color should be used for the cuffs and belt.”

I also noticed that in close shots of the belt buckle there was a red ornament behind the jewel on the belt buckle. As you can see in these reference photos



I also found some leather cord and painted it with the bronze paint.
Before:


After:



And for the earrings the CRL states, “Earrings are made of a large rounded triangle shaped gems in bright green (the same color as the gems on the belt and cuffs) with five dark red petals/points coming out of the lower half of the teardrop.”

Here are reference photos of the earrings:



So for the earrings I actually took a screenshot of Satine’s earrings and cut them out on paper, then used that template to cut the red petals out of the correct color polymer clay.   Then added the jewels.

So this is where I’m at. I need to clear coat everything, but I’m waiting for it to fully cure, so I can put finishing touches on it.  The lighting isn’t great so they look a bit dark, but it hasn’t stopped raining so I can take photos in sunlight.


And a photo of my jacket lining for reference:

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Kryamla Redalur


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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #8 on: Jul 08, 2019, 05:48 PM »
Really excited to see this come together!

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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #9 on: Jul 08, 2019, 11:36 PM »
Commenting to follow this! It 's going to be amazing :D

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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #10 on: Jul 14, 2019, 11:42 AM »
Oh my gosh, I love Satine and I love this outfit! I can't wait to see this all come together!

Rayne


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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #11 on: Jul 29, 2019, 04:55 PM »
Thank you everyone!

Finally made some progress. After 2 tries making the pants and 4 tries making the undershirt. I think I’ve finally got it.

For the pants I found a bodysuit pattern with no seam in the front. From all the reference photos, there is no visible front seam on the pants. I also found that by making full length pants, and putting on the boots, I had a lot of bunching fabric. So, I shortened the pants to prevent unnecessary bunching. They also want crease where my legs move, so I’m trying to keep them from bunching there too.

For the undershirt, the pattern I found for the petal shaped front is actually for a dress and is from the 1970s. So apparently women’s sizes were different then, because it was way too small. So after the first try, I used the pattern to custom make my own pattern that would fit me. Then realized the shirt was too short on my torso, so I added length to my custom pattern. The 3rd try, I had to remove the straps, because the were preventing the front from laying flat and added a zipper. Finally, 4th and hopefully final try, I had to add interfacing and add the straps back, but in a different place, where they would be hidden under the jacket. It is now laying correctly and has the right shape.

CRLs for undershirt:
Undershirt :
– Under the jacket is a bright yellow-green, sweetheart neckline, created from two petal pieces joined with a seam at the center. Pale dusty rose fabric is used for the triangle shaped piece that connects at the bust line, under the jacket, and ending bellow the belly button.
*This may be a full undershirt or a dickie snapped into the front of the jacket.

CRLs for pants:
Pants:
– Pants are made of medium to heavy-weight stretch fabric (suede suggested) in a dark gray-purple or dusty eggplant color. Pants should be a darker color than the boots.

Reference photo for pants with no seam:


Reference photos for undershirt:




My photo:

« Last Edit: Oct 20, 2019, 12:45 PM by Rayne » Logged
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Sabine


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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #12 on: Aug 02, 2019, 05:15 PM »
Looking good. Adding a spanx suit underneath may help reduce bunching, especially with the suede fabric. They're annoying, but I even wear them under my jedi tunics now as the reduce bunching on my pants and keep the tunics from riding up as bad.

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Sabine Wren S2

Tra'cor Clan || MMCC#1593 || M5#71 || NOS#9 || 96 OM Invasions

Rayne


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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #13 on: Aug 19, 2019, 08:20 AM »
Thank you Sabine! I did buy something like that to help with the creasing in inconvenient places. I was able to finish the jacket, I have a couple of details to add. I need to do the second band around the waist and there are a couple of wrinkles in the back of the jacket that I need to iron out.  But I think it turned out pretty good. I have the dickie for the front belly piece finished, I just need to attach it after adding the band in the waist.
CRLs for the jacket:
Jacket:
– Dusty rose jacket made of medium to heavyweight chenille, jacquard or brocade fabric with a fine pattern or texture. Top part of jacket is gathered under the bust. The front jacket should be open and long going to the knees.
– Jacket is lined in dark green jacquard or brocade. Lining fabric should have a paisley, cashmere, or similar pattern.
– Jacket has an upturned collar of dark rose fabric measuring 2” (5 cm) at the nape of the neck and tapering down, ending just under the bust. Dark rose trim roughly .75” (2 cm) wide also goes around the outside edge of the lower part the jacket.
– On the back, the jacket forms a downward V with an opening that rises up to half the thigh, slightly above the knees at the mid-back. No back or side seems. It is fitted down to natural waist then flairs out in a modified A-line. Bottom front corners of the jacket are curved.
– Lightweight pale dusty rose fabric is used for the sleeves. Sleeves are puffed on the upper arm and gather midway to the elbow. There may be small pleats at the elbow. Sleeves are fitted on the lower part of the arm.
– Sleeves end in wide dusty rose cuffs. Cuffs are stiff and curve around the arm, shorter under the arm and longer on top. Cuffs are decorated with thick metallic orange/bronze cord or wire bracelets that end in green oval gems under the wrist.












Now on to boot cuffs and gloves.

« Last Edit: Oct 20, 2019, 12:44 PM by Rayne » Logged
Tra'cor Clan // MMCC#1968
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The Armorer WIP

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Nico Fett


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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #14 on: Aug 19, 2019, 09:36 AM »
That jacket is coming out beautifully, love how this is coming together!

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Sabine


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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #15 on: Aug 20, 2019, 02:53 PM »
This is turning out beautifully! The only potential issues I can see are that the jacket may need a little tailoring below the "waist" seam and at the shoulders, as right now it's giving you very broad shoulders and looking a bit bulky.  Seeing all the fabrics together though, boy you nailed them.

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Rayne


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  • Dralshy’a Tome (Stronger Together)
  • Awards 15+ clan level invasions 6 or more Education Points in a single year. Brigades Award for 10 official invasions. 11+ Invasion Report Appearances
Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #16 on: Sep 22, 2019, 06:34 PM »
So I added some tailoring and the second seam line at the waist. Unfortunately, it is now all tailored perfectly to my body, I’m just not tall and skinny like Satine. I’m short and round.  I added the cord to the jacket and the Gloves are finished with cord and jewels. I need to clear coat the glove jewels.  The earrings turned out well.

My own critique: I need to make the book cuffs wider, they look too small in the photos.

CRLs for belt:
Belt:
– Belt buckle is a flat gold disk approximately 2.5” (6.5 cm) across.
– The buckle is decorated with green gems the same color as the jacket lining. There is one large circular gem approximately 1” (2.5 cm) across, and six smaller teardrop shaped gems extending under it like sun rays. The teardrop gems decrease in size from the center outwards.
– There is a thick metallic orange or bronze cord or wire just under the seam of the jacket that ends under the central buckle. The cord/wire turns down at a right angle under the bust, then turns horizontal again. The cord/wire curve turns upward again at the sides of the jacket and sits just below the waist line at the back of the jacket. The same cord/wire and color should be used for the cuffs and belt.
– The belt is placed on the center, fitted part of the jacket roughly at the waist. The jacket fastening must not be visible, but hidden under the buckle.

CRLs for gloves:
Gloves:
– Gloves are fitted and made by dark grey-purple or dusty eggplant colored fabric or suede. Gloves should match pants.








I need to work on the wig and makeup next.

« Last Edit: Oct 20, 2019, 12:47 PM by Rayne » Logged
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The Armorer WIP

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Sabine


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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #17 on: Sep 25, 2019, 10:23 AM »
I can definitely see a difference, it looks much better! I wouldn't make the cuffs too much wider, maybe half an inch. Great job, Rayne!

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Tra'cor Clan || MMCC#1593 || M5#71 || NOS#9 || 96 OM Invasions

Rayne


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  • Dralshy’a Tome (Stronger Together)
  • Awards 15+ clan level invasions 6 or more Education Points in a single year. Brigades Award for 10 official invasions. 11+ Invasion Report Appearances
Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #18 on: Oct 19, 2019, 07:48 PM »
So Satine is done! Yay! I ordered a custom wig. I think it turned out really well (minus my serious face).  I made a few tweaks to the style to match photos.  On to preapp.

CRLs for hair:
Hair:
– Hair is styled back with curls on the nape and without visible clips. The forehead is framed by two curled locks of hair. Natural hair colors only, blond hair recommended.
*If a wig is used, it should be should be of a good quality and seem like real hair.










Photo references used throughout my project for wig and jewels:






« Last Edit: Oct 20, 2019, 12:49 PM by Rayne » Logged
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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #19 on: Oct 30, 2019, 01:12 PM »
it's coming along really well! i love seeing people do some of the more sewing oriented costumes for star wars!
if i might ask one question/offer a suggestion, as you're sewing pieces together, have you been pressing the seams flat? the seams around the waistband in particular seem a bit "puffy", which i find is usually from the seam allowance not laying flat inside the seam.

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Rayne


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  • 2016
  • Dralshy’a Tome (Stronger Together)
  • Awards 15+ clan level invasions 6 or more Education Points in a single year. Brigades Award for 10 official invasions. 11+ Invasion Report Appearances
Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP
« Reply #20 on: Nov 09, 2019, 08:56 AM »
Got my preapp feedback. Not too bad. Made some minor adjustments and submitted my app. Yay!

Fixes:
I didn’t know there were clear hair pins, so I went and found those for the wig
I ironed out some of the wrinkles and adjusted the elastic on the sleeves to tighten them up a bit
I bought temporary hair color for my hairline
Made the lining of the jacket show further towards my waist




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Rayne


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Re: Dutchess Satine - Rose Outfit WIP-Approved
« Reply #21 on: Feb 10, 2020, 07:56 PM »
I was approved in November of 19 with a suggestion to trim the wig. This is my updated kit


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