When I want bunch-less lacing, I DO add boning alongside the grommets... Usually coat hangers bent straight, trimmed to length, then bent back into the shape it's supposed to follow, because I ran out of nylon 'poor man's boning' (XXL zip ties)
Alright thanks for the info

haven't decided if I want to go that route or not. Zip ties are the best boning

also, did you draft the patterns yourself? i just noticed the princess seams on the vest, very nicely done!
as for the lace up sides, what i usually do for lace up sections is to reinforce it with several layers of interfacing, and i'll usually apply bias tape on it as well just to thicken up the fabric on the edge while keeping it crisp. adding boning would certainly work too though
The pattern for the vest is a heavily modified 80s?? prom dress pattern. The dress came as a bodice and skirt and I modified the fit, slightly, drafted the sleeve patterns, modified the neckline, modified for the added lining.

I drafted the pattern for the kama from looking at a tulip skirt.
Edit: I found the pattern I used, it is Simplicity 9466 - I used pattern A and modified it heavily as stated above.

Also update:
Been working on the cape/cape collar, kama, sash, and patterns for missing plates.
The collar and back plate will go underneath, but both should be visibly sticking out from under the cape and cape collar.
I may use a thicker fabric for the cape like a textured linen or something. Haven't decided yet.. The silk was just something I had on hand to play with. I also haven't decided how I want to drape the cape - id like to leave some of the back plate visible.
Kama, hand made, ~$15 for elastic and fabric
Cape collar, hand made - fabric i had on hand, it's from a baby bassinet cover that I found at the thrift store for $2.
Cape, hand made - fabric I had on hand but it was probably a bit pricey since it is real silk.
Sash, hand made - prolly like $3 for the fabric.



Sewn:

