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[Tramp Graphics]

Straps aren't commonly used, I've only seen this method on Tramp's kit.  There is some floating that occurs with straps, where additional velcro on the flak vest would help keep those plates from floating.  Like top of ab plate and chest plates edge at the top.  I have similar problems with floating on my late crusader chest plate, the additional velcro really helps hold everything in place.

 
JB Weld bonds with wood, plastic, and metal so I don't see why it wouldn't work with aluminum.  I personally use heavy duty velcro with my metal mando.  My plates are 16 ga. sheet metal, shoulder bells are 20 ga.  Once my velcro is in the right place I used the self adhesive with additional super glue on my flak vest.  Velcro is not coming off anytime soon.  Key is to make sure velcro is in the right place before adding the extra adhesive, it would be painful to remove to readjust for approval.

Thankfully, I haven't had that issue. I think the key is the placemen of the straps that connect the plates to each other. All of my straps are attached at the corners of each plate: One each at the upper corners of the pectoral plates up to the collar with the outer straps connecting to the corner of the collar plate, one in each fang connecting to the outer upper corner of the ab plate, and one each on the lower inner corner of each pectoral plate connecting on either side of the pack of the ab plate, with a single wide strap between the pectoral plates connecting the steel heart. With that set up, I've never had any floating.

[Jadok Quinn]

Straps aren't commonly used, I've only seen this method on Tramp's kit.  There is some floating that occurs with straps, where additional velcro on the flak vest would help keep those plates from floating.  Like top of ab plate and chest plates edge at the top.  I have similar problems with floating on my late crusader chest plate, the additional velcro really helps hold everything in place.

 
JB Weld bonds with wood, plastic, and metal so I don't see why it wouldn't work with aluminum.  I personally use heavy duty velcro with my metal mando.  My plates are 16 ga. sheet metal, shoulder bells are 20 ga.  Once my velcro is in the right place I used the self adhesive with additional super glue on my flak vest.  Velcro is not coming off anytime soon.  Key is to make sure velcro is in the right place before adding the extra adhesive, it would be painful to remove to readjust for approval.

Straps should still be approvable in and of themselves though, right? At least that's how I've understood it in the CRL's. And it is a convenient way of securing the armor, like you're wearing a shirt almost. Might cut some button holes in the vest to hide the straps and buckles though. If I can get a type of JB Weld that specifically mentions aluminum just to be sure, I wouldn't have a reason not to.

Thankfully, I haven't had that issue. I think the key is the placemen of the straps that connect the plates to each other. All of my straps are attached at the corners of each plate: One each at the upper corners of the pectoral plates up to the collar with the outer straps connecting to the corner of the collar plate, one in each fang connecting to the outer upper corner of the ab plate, and one each on the lower inner corner of each pectoral plate connecting on either side of the pack of the ab plate, with a single wide strap between the pectoral plates connecting the steel heart. With that set up, I've never had any floating.

While you may not have had an issue so far, it doesn't hurt to have a little extra reinforcement. I can't imagine using both of your methods would be anything but beneficial. So I could just sew the velcro to the inside of the straps. It's good to note where to put everything though, so thank you for that.

[Tramp Graphics]

Straps should still be approvable in and of themselves though, right? At least that's how I've understood it in the CRL's. And it is a convenient way of securing the armor, like you're wearing a shirt almost. Might cut some button holes in the vest to hide the straps and buckles though. If I can get a type of JB Weld that specifically mentions aluminum just to be sure, I wouldn't have a reason not to.

That is correct on both counts. Straps are fully approvable on their own, which is one of the reasons why I chose them as my attachment method. It does make it very easy to put on and take off my armor by myself as well, particularly, since I wear a front opening vest.

While you may not have had an issue so far, it doesn't hurt to have a little extra reinforcement. I can't imagine using both of your methods would be anything but beneficial. So I could just sew the velcro to the inside of the straps. It's good to note where to put everything though, so thank you for that.

The main reason why I personally don't use anything else is I want to be able to wear my vest without the armor attached as well. As such I want a clean vest without a bunch of snaps or exposed velcro. It provides more versatility for my soft-goods.

[Jadok Quinn]

The main reason why I personally don't use anything else is I want to be able to wear my vest without the armor attached as well. As such I want a clean vest without a bunch of snaps or exposed velcro. It provides more versatility for my soft-goods.

Out of curiosity, what else do you intend to use your vest for besides Mandalorian armor?

[Tramp Graphics]

Out of curiosity, what else do you intend to use your vest for besides Mandalorian armor?

If you mean, "is it for another costume?", Nothing. I just want to be able to wear my soft-goods without the full kit up and still look "in universe" if I'm at the table or working as a spotter/handler. For example This is me in just my soft-goods, sans armor:



The fact that my vest is front opening means I can also wear it "Han Solo" style. That's basically my intent when not fully kitted up.

[Arkham]

Straps should still be approvable in and of themselves though, right? At least that's how I've understood it in the CRL's. And it is a convenient way of securing the armor, like you're wearing a shirt almost. Might cut some button holes in the vest to hide the straps and buckles though. If I can get a type of JB Weld that specifically mentions aluminum just to be sure, I wouldn't have a reason not to.

This would be a great App Team Q&A question. I have not seen an approved kit using this method.

My issue with it would be from a visibility standpoint. When someone is looking at your armor they are going to see the straps between your armor plates. This is not a look that we have seen in any canon Mandos. As such, it could look "shoddy" if not done to a high aesthetic level. Most strapping methods for Mando armor are for a Legacy kit (a subset of modern) and all of that strapping is hidden behind the plates.

If you are cutting button holes in the vest, you're essentially mounting the plates to the vest. As such, there are better attachment method for this.

[Tramp Graphics]

This would be a great App Team Q&A question. I have not seen an approved kit using this method.

My issue with it would be from a visibility standpoint. When someone is looking at your armor they are going to see the straps between your armor plates. This is not a look that we have seen in any canon Mandos. As such, it could look "shoddy" if not done to a high aesthetic level. Most strapping methods for Mando armor are for a Legacy kit (a subset of modern) and all of that strapping is hidden behind the plates.

If you are cutting button holes in the vest, you're essentially mounting the plates to the vest. As such, there are better attachment method for this.

I have talked with the APP team, and my Ruus'alor—who also happens to be on the App Team—and they have no problem with straps being used the way I do. My kit is currently in Regional Pre-App.

I do agree that, if you go the strap route, don't cut holes in your vest. it defeats the purpose of using straps, which is to keep the vest "clean" of any "attachment points", and make it easier to get into and out of your armor.

[Arkham]

I have talked with the APP team, and my Ruus'alor—who also happens to be on the App Team—and they have no problem with straps being used the way I do. My kit is currently in Regional Pre-App.

So, to my point, we have not seen this method used on an APPROVED kit.

If/when your kit is approved, this would change that. Until that time, there are several other approved methods of mounting plates that have been successfully used by many Mandos that should also be considered. Most all cases where strapping is used to mount the armor, the strapping is hidden.


I worry that, at the end of the day, the visible strapping may not give the cohesive unified look that we are accustom to seeing in a Mandalorian armor kit and that it may instead detract from the overall look you may be going for on a kit. Just something to keep in mind as you go forward. But that is just my opinion and why I suggest reaching out to the Q&A.

If that is the aesthetic you are going for; More power to you!

[ishtob]

I'd probably end up going with the kwikweld syringe than the putty. Something about putty doesn't sit well with me.

Can you send a link to the buckles that you used? Or what size you went with?

i’ve got 2 metal kits and i’ve used magnets with velcro for the first, and bolts for the second. all my plates are 12-14guage aluminum

I use the steel reinforced JB weld as my go-to for adhesive on aluminum. Just make sure you clean and sand the area you want to glue really well, i’ve had a few epoxy joints failing to stick to the surface due to poor surface prep on my part

[Jadok Quinn]

i’ve got 2 metal kits and i’ve used magnets with velcro for the first, and bolts for the second. all my plates are 12-14guage aluminum

I use the steel reinforced JB weld as my go-to for adhesive on aluminum. Just make sure you clean and sand the area you want to glue really well, i’ve had a few export failing to stick to the surface due to poor surface prep on my part

Would you mind sending or posting a picture of the inside of your plates for both kits? I'm still torn between what method I'd like to go with

[Venix Arden]

So, a few things.

Mr. Tramp, we're here to help assist the OP on their Desert Mando kit. I feel that this sidebar is detracting from the questions the OP is seeking.

Arkham is very correct. This would be a great question for the MMCC Q+A Team. A lot of the issues raised in this thread and others would be situated properly if people asked the Q+A Team questions instead of making assumptions. But I digress

Jadok, this is a great WIP thread. You're off to a great start and I wish you nothing but the best. Check in with your local Clan Ruus'alor and get their input each step of your build. You are more than welcome to send a question into the Q+A Team as well. That way, you'll get an official answer.

Happy building!

Venix Ar'den
ICC Minister
Northeast Region Ruus'sol
Q+A Director

[ishtob]

Would you mind sending or posting a picture of the inside of your plates for both kits? I'm still torn between what method I'd like to go with

1st kit
Initially started with magnets only, I wanted a vest with no visible attachment to it as well, but had major issues with lateral force knocking it off (it was awesome at holding it from getting pulled away, magnet didn’t go a good job keeping it on if you hit it from the sides or when plates knock into each other) I added 1 strip of velcro per page to keep it from shifting, magnet does the alignment and hold the weight

Magnet on the plates are held on by 3M VHB heavy duty double sided tape (i got them precut in circles the size of my magnets), surface prep is really important here, sand the area well before applying (also sand the magnet surface)


The magnets are sandwiched between 2 piece of velcro on the inside of the vest


Shoulders are attached with snaps:

shoulder snaps on the plate are glued on using steel reinforced JB weld

pro:
- ultra fast kit up
- vest is wearable without plate (but why, it’s sooo hot and stuffy, and you look nothing like characters from star wars, i do walk around cons in my flight suit, i made strategic patches for exposed the exposed velcro (Northeast regional patch and the mando merc patches)
- quick maintenance for removing plates for laundering vest
- adjustable magnet placement, but once locked in velcro, always get perfect alignment
- easy repair with double sided tape

con:
- need velcro or another way to prevent lateral movement of plates
- probably as secure as a pure velcro setup
- magnets can break in the dryer, but a fat lot of them so you have backups

Kit 2
I used rivet nuts and pressed into a separate sheet of metal, then the sheet solid riveted to the main plates. (these can be sanded until it’s flush with the surface, then paint primer fills the microscopic gap. they are near invisible






On vest side, i poked hole using a leather punch and added aluminum grommets:





i used chalk to outline my plates while wearing the vest to get the placement perfect (i sent photos to the other ruus to check my alignment ahead of time since grommet holes will be permanent)

the plate is then attached with screws and nylon washers from the inside of the vest




pro:
-rock solid, i can run, jump, dance in my kit. my plates would probably cuts me before they fall off
- perfect alignment every time
- no issues with kids trying to rip off your plate at cons, they just hang off your plates
- nearly no maintenance

con:
- 0 room for adjustments after
- requires sewing to repair the hole before you can add on new geometry


- Annoying amounts of screws to remove after each troop to launder vest

If you ask me, i’d prob do the kit 2 method again, but it does require quite of bit of work and perfect alignment. I am just as happy with my first kit in terms of attachment method.

[Vercopaanir]

I found it!

Okay, my two cents for attachment possibilities.  For Torso Armor Only, I like to use butterfly clutch pins.  They can be JB Welded to metal or Sintra, easily adjustable and you have minimal damage to vest (pin hole).  If you replace the rubber backs (Or metal one depending on which you purchase) with locking back, they only come off if you want them to.  I have danced, gone horseback riding, did a tiny bit of running (I hate running  )  and shot a fan film with my plates attached with this method.  They also won't require any additional paint as they would attach entirely in the back of the armor.

Same as what Ishtob said, prep work before applying them is the key to getting them to stick.

I prefer strapping for lower body armor with a side order of Velcro to help prevent slipping.  Shoulders are what ever works best with the style and fit ( I done Chicago screws, Velcro, snaps, literal screws with straps as well as magnets)

Magnets and Velcro combo is usually the fastest for in and out of kit.  Magnets will help with getting the alignment right every time; while the velcro will ensure that the plates don't get accidentally knocked off.  Adding a sew on snap or two for peace of mind is also always an option.

These are my opinions.  All or any combo of these are allowed, so pick the one you think will work best for you. 

If you want to see the pins on my armor you can click here where it starts and here for the a view of the inside of the vest once the plates were mounted.