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[B3TH]

Greetings from snowy Minnesota!
For my first Mando costume, I have decided to tackle The Armorer from The Mandalorian series.

Helmet cast is from Thorsson & Associates - https://www.tandaworkshop.com/, raw cast resin and .25" thick plexi tinted visor

Here it is with the front freshly cut via dremel wheel-

Here are the paint colors I used-


I used a combo of the hammered gold and a smidge of hammered copper as a first coat then some vintage gold and another spritz of hammered copper then the metallic gold on top. The horns are actually some silver nail polish. did the weathering with water mixable artist oils (they have a longer drying time than acrylic paints so they give you more time to work with where you put them and it really looks like dried mucky grease when dry). The hammered series paints will add texture- if you want a completely shiny smooth helmet I would stick to the vintage gold and metallic gold. Depends on the look you want. Adding a smidge of copper in a few small spots gives the look that the gold plating has worn off the helmet, exposing another metal underneath. (closeups to follow)



And the finished look-



Glued the visor in place with industrial hot glue

VOILA!


Now working on the Gauntlets/gloves- pattern purchased on Etsy from Sionnach Studios -https://www.etsy.com/shop/SionnachStudios?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=774518415

Gloves purchased here-https://www.circlecsupply.com/boss-brown-split-leather-glove.html#.XmbydRZPBno.link
Went with these as they are nice and dark and also the only ones I have found thus far that come in medium (most are large and XL and I have tiny hands)
Bought deer hide leather from SR Harris, cut 2 cuff sections and cut 2 out of pre-quilted dark fabric from Jo-Ann's

Drew grid lines on the leather then pinned both layers together and sewed on top of the lines to form the quilting.



Then I distressed the look using coconut oil, which I brushed on over the sew lines to darken them and then after the sections sat for a day I used a suede brush from Tandy Leather (can also use a small wire and/or plastic bristle brush) to brush up the nap and make it look like suede again, as the oil lays down the texture.



Next I will sew on strips of rusty red suede to the elbow side of the cuff and fold the leather over/glue to the inside on the wrist edge, and sew the sides together to complete the cuff.  Will post pics once complete.  After that I will tackle the gaiters and calf trim using pattern from Sionnach Studios, textured suede from SR HARRIS and leather texture vinyl from Jo-Ann.  I have purchased oil-tanned look faux leather from Amazon for the apron (and will distress using Angelus leather paint), and also have 2 colors of faux leather for the belt/obi.
MORE PICS TO COME! THIS IS THE WAY!

[Ashen Kelborn]

Love the the progress so far, commenting to follow progress 

[Hulahooper]

Looks fancy, I'm watching this with interest

[vaderqueenzamora]

Following

[Mi'ix]

Absolutely love the weathering and color on the helmet.  Surface texture really looks lovely on the helmet.  Really solid work!

I would go a little darker on the color of the horns.  Closer to say a dark steel or even gunmetal.  Where you're at right now is just silver in color.

Something we've noticed on the app team is with the ear caps on the Armorer's helmet and how the outermost ridge terminates up into the higher part of the ear cap.

Here is where yours is.


This is what we're looking for now.


See how that center most ridge stops right where the ear cap bumps out?  That's what we're looking for.  I think you can modify your helmet with some apoxiesculpt to add the line and "stop" the ridge where it should be.

[B3TH]

Thank you for the feedback!  I will be posting more very soon!

[Karl Dha'Werda]

Commenting to follow from a neighboring state in ND and in the NC region.  Nice paint job so far on your bucket.

[Geila Alo]

Looking forward to follow your progress.

[B3TH]

Alrighty all!  Time for some major updates:

Here is my raw PLA 3D printed Chest and back plates from Sionnach Studios https://sionnachstudios.com/:

 

I assembled the pieces using super glue (NOTE:  DO NOT use super glue only, as my chest plate broke in two after I got her completely painted.  I had to re-assemble and I used automotive epoxy to make sure it all held together for the long haul)
I noticed on the show that the bottom of the chest plate has a small rectangular piece that wasn't on mine, so I cut out the side of a pop can and glued it on.

 

After tons of sanding and a couple coats of filler primer, I used 3 colors of spray paint:



Here is the first coat:

 

Sadly, a few days after I get it painted, all of the seam lines broke because I only used super glue to fasten everything.  I got some JB Weld epoxy from the auto parts store and used that to re-assemble.  It looks sad now, but she'll clean up!

 

Lots of sanding and filler/primer and another coat of paint:



To add weathering I rubbed metallic red, black, and silver eyeshadow on the surface.  The palette I used is by the brand Colourpop and called "Wine and Only".  To seal it and to keep the eyeshadow from falling off I used Rustoleum 2X clear satin and shiny.








SHOULDER PAULDRONS:

I didn't want to use 3D printed shoulder pieces because 1) I wanted something flexible to make sure it would fit my chest and back armor and 2) I wanted to challenge myself with making them from scratch.  I found this Youtube tutorial through the Armorer Building Group on Facebook:

I started with a white foam half sphere 5 3/4" diameter that I picked up at the craft store.  I covered it in plastic wrap and duct tape, then took a permanent marker and drew a line down the center and then at the fourth way mark, then cut on those lines and flattened it out so that I could cut out the pieces in heavy felt and hot glue them together to form the base of the shoulder.  I used 3 out of the 4 sections (instead of making the piece a half sphere it will end up as a 3/8 sphere to give me plenty of wiggle room to adjust how the finished pieces will fit with the chest/back plates) I shoved the foam half-sphere onto a metal wig head clamp to keep my work steady.  I pinned the felt base to the foam sphere and got to work cutting leather strips.

       

I found some warm brown color thin suede and cut it into 1/2" strips.  I layed them across the base at opposing angles and began to weave them.  I used plastic quilter's clips to hold everything in place.  I used gorilla hot glue to bind the edges and then trimmed them flush.









NOTE:  As pretty as this first draft turned out, I was informed that they are not screen accurate as the leather has a pattern embossed in it.  I decided instead of starting from scratch, I'd use the existing shoulders as the base and just build the new weaving on top.  I used a hair dryer on high to melt the glue around the edge and was able to peel the edge trim off.



I got two 8 1/2" x 11" chocolate brown leather sheets at Michael's craft store https://www.michaels.com/product/brown-leather-trim-by-artminds-10325151?com_id=SearchBar_SeeResults_Components&path=rankedProduct  I also got a leather strip cutting tool which made the job SO MUCH easier.


I cut the leather sheets into 1/2" x 8 1/2" strips and cliped and weaved them just as before.
As much as I hated to re-do the project, I think it's a blessing in that the first draft the shoulders are very boxy and with this thicker leather it's nice and rounded.

[Geila Alo]

I also had issues to get my chestarmor to hold together, so in the end I put fiberglass on the back. And at the same time, I atteched strapping (see photo below). The chestarmor got a bit heavier, but it have hold togehter very good now. Very clever to use a side of a pop can for the small rectangular part on the bottom of the chest.



It's good that you choosed to make your own shoulder pauldrons, since the CRL state that they have to "consists of two shoulder plates of leather in a basket weave pattern and has a solid leather trim piece at the bottom edge." I put in a referencephoto of the shoulders, if it could help you.



Looking forward to follow you next step

[B3TH]

I also had issues to get my chestarmor to hold together, so in the end I put fiberglass on the back. And at the same time, I atteched strapping (see photo below). The chestarmor got a bit heavier, but it have hold togehter very good now. Very clever to use a side of a pop can for the small rectangular part on the bottom of the chest.



It's good that you choosed to make your own shoulder pauldrons, since the CRL state that they have to "consists of two shoulder plates of leather in a basket weave pattern and has a solid leather trim piece at the bottom edge." I put in a referencephoto of the shoulders, if it could help you.



Looking forward to follow you next step

Thank you for the tips!  After I get everything together and weathered, I'll start figuring out how to attach the chest and back plates- I'm not sure if i'll use straps or snaps.

[B3TH]

Here is the raw resin cast of my hammer:



First coat of silver Rustoleum paint:




After a couple more coats of silver and weathering with water-mixable oil paint (the same colors used on the helmet):





BOOTS:

I purchased a pair of Sketchers Blain Orsen boots back in 2020 when I started my costume.  On the Armorer Builder's Group Facebook booard, that brand was the general consensus of what was used for Season 1. 
I bought brown flexible resin cast toe caps from Thorsson & Associates.  I used Rustoleum Metallic Rust as paint color and weathered with some bronze and gold metallic eyeshadows, and the water mixable oil paints.







For the gaiters/boot covers I downloaded a pattern from Sionnach Studios on Etsy, but to make sure everything looks good and fits to my shape, I decided to make a cast of my leg.  I wore my boot and wrapped my leg with clear plastic wrap and then a few layers of duct tape then had my fiance help cut it off my leg.  I then taped the cast back together again with more duct tape and sat it on top of the boot. 




To start making pattern pieces, I layered more plastic wrap on top of the cast and this time used layers of clear packing tape for structure.  I marked where I wanted my seam to be and where the ankle falls and cut the packing tape and plastic off of the leg form.



For a mockup I then traced the packing tape pieces I made on to some medium weight white vinyl and added seam allowance for the arch over the top of the foot.  I cut them out and quick fastened the seam together with 1/8" double sided Tanner's Tape from Tandy Leather and will do the same with the leather pieces for the finished product as well as sew them.

[Geila Alo]

Great updates!  I am just thinking about the armored plate covering the toe of the boots. What references is you using to support the coloration on them? The CRL state that they must be painted dark brown.

[B3TH]

When I look at the shots of the costume as displayed last year at Celebration at The Mandalorian Experience:  To me, the toe caps, as well as the bands around the calfs and the trim of each skirt pleat have more of a mahogany / rust/ reddish-brown tint to them.  I'm going to take another coat of paint to mine and take better pictures- mine don't look as brassy/golden in-person.  Thoughts??  Thanks for the feedback, all! It's super helpful through this process!

[Geila Alo]

Yes, I think it's a good idea to take better pictures since they look very glossy/brassy/golden and I can't see any silver in the referencepics. They look more matte. Maybe some dirt plus a matte clear coat would help.