I worked on the calf bands this weekend.

I was able to sew them with my home sewing machine using upholstery thread, a teflon machine foot, leather sewing machine needles, and lots of patience. I'm glad I bought a whole pack of leather needles because I managed to break 3 of them.
I made one with box pleats as most costumers have done up until recently and was not pleased with the results. I weighed the strip down with weights to flatten the pleats but upon removing the weights the pleats popped back up again. As much as I clipped the edges with strong clips, The pleats shifted in the machine as I sewed, and they did not come out even.

There has been some chatter on the Facebook building boards about the pleats. Some argue that the pleats must be knife pleats as opposed to box pleats because a few keen eyes spotted lines of stiching on one side of each pleat on the costume that was displayed at Celebration Anaheim 2022.

I decided to make a calf band with knife pleats to compare the two methods.
Let me tell you- making the calf band with the knife pleats made a WORLD of difference. The pleats are much flatter without extra effort (although I did use a clothing iron on low to give them one final press), and they stayed put and stayed evenly spaced.
To make each calf band I cut 3 strips of leather: one 3" wide for the center, and two 1.5" wide for the edges.
To make the pleats, I marked my center leather strip at 1.5" increments and folded wrong sides together at each mark and clipped them in place with quilter's clips.

I sewed a vertical line 1/2" from each fold, then laid all the pleats to one side and clipped them in place with the quilter's clips again. I sewed a running stitch 1/4" from each side to keep everything in place.

I then used leather shears to cut the sides as close to that running stich line as possible. I then clipped the edging strips to each side with right sides together and sewed them in place 1/4" seam allowance.

I pressed open the side seams so that I could fold the edging strips over the top and bottom to the back.

I ran strips of double-sided tanner's bond tape on the wrong side of the edge pieces and wrapped them around the sides, thoroughly pressing them on the back side of the calf bands.


Here is a side-by-side comparison of the two. The top one has the box pleats, the bottom one has the knife pleats. I can tell a huge difference not only in quality but in time (the knife pleat method took 2 hours less time, plus I didn't have to weigh the strip down overnight with bricks and weights!)
