activation email

[Athorr Cadera]

I picked up a Mynock's Den GI helmet a little over a month ago, and finally got around to adding some battle damage this weekend.


For the front left, I added a mix of shrapnel damage and a bit of melee scarring. I also like to include a fair bit of scuffing on the forehead/brow line to indicate a penchant for head-butting.


Mainly shrapnel damage over here - clearly a grenade went off somewhere to my right at some point. Plus one big scar from a melee weapon from an unseen/ambushing attacker.


I tried to make most of the damage in the back look like it's from bring knocked backwards and hitting my head on things, which a few more signs of ambush attacks. I also put the only blaster impact here on the back at an elevated point, suggesting a sniper shot; I figure, if you're gonna get shot in the head, ideally it's because you never saw the shooter.


The left transitions from stray bumps to primarily melee damage. Here on Earth, most people are right-handed, so hand-to-hand attacks will tend to favor the left; there's no reason that would necessarily hold true in the galaxy far, far away, but I think it lends a bit of subconscious authenticity.


I like to include a mix of cuts and crushing/impact marks, to suggest a variety of weapon attacks over time.


Always start with a plan! I like to draw my battle damage in first with a pencil to make sure I get it right when the time comes to start for real. One of the main challenges with adding battle damage is overcoming our brain's passive desire for symmetry and patterns. If you just start freehanding damage, it will almost always end up in a pattern of some kind; drawing first gives the opportunity to spot those patterns and break them up. It also helps to ensure you have a good variety of damage, ie, not too many marks of the same kind, and gives the opportunity to think about what kinds of damage your Mando is most likely to take and where.


If you compare against the images above, you'll see I followed my pencil markings pretty closely, with only a few exceptions.




One exception was the blaster impact, which ended up a bit smaller. No special reason; I just got it looking good and decided to quit while I was ahead rather than keep Dremel-ing and potentially end up with something bigger that I didn't like as much.


The glare makes it a bit hard to tell, but the big scar over the visor here was originally much longer, and at a slightly different angle. The angle was just a matter of my metal file not quite cooperating with me (it happens sometimes), but the size change was intentional; after staring at it drawn on the helmet for a month, I felt like it was too prominent and dialed it down. Another advantage of drawing the damage first!


The tools I used. Not pictured: filter mask and Dremel circular cutting blade.

Next up: a base coat of black spray paint!

[Mirran]

That damage looks great! Thanks for the tip about drawing it on before you start cutting; I'm about at that stage with my own bucket and didn't think about that. Good call!

[Athorr Cadera]

Progress!


For my base, I use Rust-Oleum 2x flat black "paint and primer in one" from Home Depot. Five coats total (roughly one can). A black base means that any unplanned scratches or dings that happen will ideally end up at the black layer, so that they automatically look black washed. It also helps the rub n buff adhere and look its best.


First pass of rub n buff autumn gold. Oddly, their "Spanish copper" color looks more like bronze; this one has the "shiny penny" tone I like best.
As with spray paint, you want multiple layers of rub n buff to get a smooth, even coat.


After a second coat of rub n buff - much smoother!


With a black wash, the damaged areas will pop even more, and this bucket will really come to life!


Since my paint is blue, I could use my painter's tape to mock up the design pretty decently before painting.
Once I got the Jaig eyes where I liked them, I traced them with a pencil and used that to guide my placement of tape for actual painting.


In this pic, you can see a bit of the Maskol I use to mask my battle damage; it's a purple paint-on latex that dries in about 20 minutes and is super easy to peel off later. I like using it, but toothpaste or mustard, which I've always heard work similarly.


Taping properly takes so much time (way more than the actual painting) and some precise scissors to get nice clean lines, but it's totally worth it!


This is after 3 layers of paint, one every 15 mins or so (check your paint's instructions for recoat times). I let it dry for at least 24-48 hours before I take all of the tape and masking fluid off. Paint is Valspar Premium Finish Paint + Primer spray paint, Deep Sea Diver blue.
I use an old cat scratching post to paint my helmets, as it holds the helmet up high enough to let me hit the bottom edges at the same time as I get everything else. I also put it up on top of a large cardboard box or tarped table to get it higher off the ground, so it's easier to see and minimizes spray hitting the floor/grass/whatever.


Close up on the taping details for one of the Jaig eyes.

Still to do: black wash, earcap install, and visor install.

[Sar Vitaan]

This is looking sweet! The detail and thought you put into the damage is great, and that bronze came out beautifully! Can’t wait to see the finished product!

[Athorr Cadera]

Thanks so much! Here it is out of the tape, with some extra paint scratching added by hand (just used my fingernails). It's getting close!

[Sar Vitaan]

Love it! What color visor are you planning? I think this would look killer with a blue mirrored one!

[Avelin Kel]

love the work you've done so far!

[Einrune]

I applaud your skill with a dremel, that battle damage looks amazing, well so does the paint. I have been slightly worried thinking about how to go about that part this whole time. 

[Athorr Cadera]

Thanks for the kind words everyone!

What color visor are you planning? I think this would look killer with a blue mirrored one!

Mirrored are a bit flashy for me, but to each their own, that's what makes Mandos fun I'm just going to use standard welding visor material from Amazon.

[Athorr Cadera]

Added a black wash to my helmet over lunch. I used black acrylic paint to darken all of the physical damage, and Nuln Oil diluted black acrylic for the overall "grime" pass.

The black frames on the sides will hold the speakers for my in-helmet voice amp, and will be disguised by custom earcaps.

[Knight0351]

Kind of an odd question but how much does the brow ridge stick out from the dome? I've messaged Mynock's Den on Etsy and on IG but haven't gotten a reply yet.
I'm thinking of trying to modify a GI helmet since I love the MHAS but kinda want a unique shape

[Kurshi BeJahaal]

This is a solid thread.

Great information and your helmet turned out great! I'm ALWAYS a fan of adding physical damage to your plates before painting. It helps to add a layer of realistic texture that, when blackwashed, really pops.

[Athorr Cadera]

Kind of an odd question but how much does the brow ridge stick out from the dome?

 On mine, the "ledge" where the top of the brow meets the dome is about 1/8 inch.

This is a solid thread.

Great information and your helmet turned out great! I'm ALWAYS a fan of adding physical damage to your plates before painting. It helps to add a layer of realistic texture that, when blackwashed, really pops.

Thanks very much! I think I might just have it wrapped up this weekend, I'll update with more pics then 

[Athorr Cadera]

And it's done!

Earcaps were custom designed and 3D printed by a friend of mine to hold the speakers for my in-helmet voice/audio system.

[Kurshi BeJahaal]

Absolutely awesome, man!

[Athorr Cadera]

Absolutely awesome, man!

Thank you so much! It's been a fun build 

[Druj Jes]

I love the speakers in the ear caps.  That is such a good idea.  It has always bothered me a little that my voice doesn't come from my head. 

[Athorr Cadera]

I love the speakers in the ear caps.  That is such a good idea.  It has always bothered me a little that my voice doesn't come from my head. 

That was my thinking exactly! Plus it's one less thing to fiddle with when kitting up and walking around. And I've freed up the pouch that used to hold my aker!

It's not the cheapest option (unless you DIY your own speaker/amp setup) but definitely more efficient and "real" feeling, IMO.