Thank you
It's going to have a mic inside with a quick disconnect to attach to my voice amplifier, but otherwise no fun electronics. I thought about LEDs in a few places, but I already have a lot of LEDs in my regular armor and didn't feel the need for more. This is a small helmet, it's very snug with padding on my 22" circumference head to keep it light weight and comfortable, so there was also no room for fans. I thought about extending the rear with some box details to make room for a 30mm fan, but I already have fans in my collar armor that direct air up both sides inside the helmet.
I've made some progress and had some setbacks that I thought were worth sharing. I'm using a flexible PEI topped bed on my custom Prusa 3D Printer, they work fantastically well until you try to print a large part from nylon. The adhesion between the PEI and nylon is stronger then the magnetic pull holding down the bed. This results in large warps after ~4+ hours of printing, when the nylon has started to shrink slightly. I used gaffers tape all around the bed to try to keep the edges secured, but still resulted in a completely unusable warp in my visor. You'll notice my helmet bottom chin is warped up about 5mm. I killed this print about 5 hours in.
To solve this, I knew I needed to design something that actually mechanically fastened the bed down rather then just relying on magnets. I went to the hardware store this morning and was lucky enough to find some fat metal U brackets that were the prefect size and shape for this job. They're supposed to be used as magnetic door locks for a cabinet assembly, the gap is slightly under 6mm.
I'll be trying the visor again today once my nylon comes out of the oven. I also pinned together the top and bottom half of the main bucket using 4mm steel pins, then filled the gap between the shells using muliput. This stuff sands super smooth and is hard as rock, a great filler for nylon or PETG.