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 RC-3141's Soft Goods WIP Thread

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RC-3141


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RC-3141's Soft Goods WIP Thread
« on: Aug 17, 2020, 05:45 PM »
Hello there!
I've got some work on my soft goods in, so I figured I'd start this thread. It'll actually pick up once I start working on my flak vest though.
Using some leather gloves which I was able to naturally weather by fighting blackberries around my property



Managed to snag some free pleather by being at the right place at the right time (specifically, my church when old bus seats were being thrown away)



And I'm using a Dickie's 100% cotton flight suit in tan that I cut the pockets off of (made a few errors there and learned a bit about mending, as well as sewing slit pockets closed)


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"Do you not know that in a race all the runners run, but only one receives the prize? Run in such a way as to take the prize." 1 Corinthians 9:24

RC-3141


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Re: RC-3141's Soft Goods WIP Thread
« Reply #1 on: Oct 06, 2021, 12:40 PM »
I AM ALIVE!

Enlisted my roommate to help me make a duct-tape mannequin last night, and I intend to get a vest done this month (before Halloween, of course). It should be easy enough once I get measurements done and fabric cut, I'm planning on doing velcro closure on both sides to make life quick and easy, meaning shoulders will be sewn together (with possible shoulder flaps to hold my shoulder plates? I'm undecided on that point), velcro sewn to the sides, and then plates attached.
I also hope to get my kama done this month, and I am going to actually have to start thinking about belts and where I'm going to holster everything.

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Discord: RC-3141#5926

Weapons WIP Thread
Armor WIP Thread
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"Do you not know that in a race all the runners run, but only one receives the prize? Run in such a way as to take the prize." 1 Corinthians 9:24

z2the4


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Re: RC-3141's Soft Goods WIP Thread
« Reply #2 on: Oct 08, 2021, 02:13 AM »
Mannequin looks great, I really need to make one as well one day.


Can we see some full pictures of your soft parts?

RC-3141


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Re: RC-3141's Soft Goods WIP Thread
« Reply #3 on: Oct 08, 2021, 11:18 AM »
Yeah, that's probably a good idea lol
So, I've got about 10 yards of duck cloth, and a bit of pleather that I scavenged, that I'm considering as my main fabric resources for this kit:
I've got the coveralls (ignore the hastily attached velcro from.... last halloween. Man it's been a minute since I've worked on this)

And I've got my leather gloves, as well as a black gaiter that I was planning on using as my neck seal for the time being, I want to find an alternative option that would cover my chin but won't have issues staying up/isn't as baggy around the neck area.

And, I was thinking a bit more. I might be able to cut my flak vest entirely out of one piece, instead of having to sew it together at the shoulders, which would let me probably just have to hand-sew the velcro onto it. Would there be anything preventing me from doing this, or is there anything I should do to make the edges of the fabric look better that might require a sewing machine? Ideally, I'd like to only have to do the vest once.

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"Do you not know that in a race all the runners run, but only one receives the prize? Run in such a way as to take the prize." 1 Corinthians 9:24
Re: RC-3141's Soft Goods WIP Thread
« Reply #4 on: Oct 09, 2021, 01:48 AM »
 If you live anywhere that gets above 50-60 degrees regularly Pleather will make a less-than-perfect material for anything but accessories like pouches or detail panels.
 Regarding the use of hand versus machine sewing:  I've done a fair bit of sewing by machine and by hand. Machine sewing isn't particularly 'better' than hand sewing, it's simply faster. You can construct and finish the entire garment by hand, no machine necessary. Beyond scissors, pins, needle and thread, all you really need is patience and time.

Doing your vest in a single piece will probably not fit well at the shoulder - it will probably cause the shoulders to stick up square and outward if the material is sturdy enough to use for a flak vest in the first place. Human shoulders slope down and out from the neck, so a straight line will tend to float above the downhill ends. As I say that, I'm thinking that you're envisioning essentially a rectangle shape with a neckhole in the middle, and openings cut out for your arms that close up with Velcro or straps on the sides(correct my assumption if I am wrong). You will have to get your arm holes fitted in order to allow movement without bunching across the chest or back. Squared-off openings cutting down from shoulder width to around nipple level and over to the side might allow that but it won't follow the lines of your plates well for Modern; it might work ok for PostImp. Generally speaking the arm openings will be made of arcs in order to fit well. 
If you're looking for information about using your body as a template, search for 'draping a pattern'. It's usually applied to dresses for ladies' fashion and formal wear but the same core concept can be applied here. You will want a very good and patient friend or an identical twin that owes you a favor for this operation.

Unless it is part of an intentionally raw or primitive aesthetic, unfinished edges look...incomplete, and are not as durable as finished seams and hems; they can fray and fall apart in the wash over time. If you truly want to do it once, you'll have to take the time. Two ways I know of making it happen: You can roll the cut edges over twice to the inside and whipstitch them down, or you can sew a lining to the shell fabric with the right sides together, then turn it right side out and finish the opening you turned it through - that can get tricky around neck holes and it's easier in my experience to make the front and back separately and piece them together at the shoulder after turning them out (clip your corners and notch your curves). Topstitching all around the edge of each layered panel helps with strength and durability.

Whatever methods you use, remember:
Add ease and seam allowance
Neck holes are not symmetrical front to back
cut the panels a bit long and finish the bottom hem last
Experiment and have fun with it.

Hope this helps. 

RC-3141


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Re: RC-3141's Soft Goods WIP Thread
« Reply #5 on: Nov 06, 2021, 04:43 PM »
Thank you for all of that information, and sorry for the delayed response, school has been a shab'la hard thing to keep up with this year.
In response to some of your more points:At this point, if I use the pleather at all, it will be getting used for accessories or a kama, the edges of the material are super rough though so I'm going to have to figure out how to deal with that. The plus side of this is it was free, and comes looking naturally weathered from years of being used as seats on a bus.
And I see what you're saying about the one-piece vest not working, I was planning on using one of the templates floating around on the forums here (I was eyeing this one) and I just hadn't bothered to start drawing it out to realize that one-piece wouldn't work.
Thanks for all of the information about unfinished edges too, that's what I needed to start finding out! Realistically, I should probably shoot to iterate 2-3 times on the vest as I go and learn more and get more skills instead of being paralyzed by trying to do it perfectly from the beginning.

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"Do you not know that in a race all the runners run, but only one receives the prize? Run in such a way as to take the prize." 1 Corinthians 9:24
Re: RC-3141's Soft Goods WIP Thread
« Reply #6 on: Nov 06, 2021, 05:35 PM »
Happy to be helpful - and donít worry about slow responses.  I lived through school (lo, those many years ago) and traded that busy for the work and family type of busy. So I get it.
I think that vest tutorial is what I based my v1 Halloween vest on, and I essentially retraced that for my current 1st OM aspiring kit.  Iím happy with it and havenít gotten negative feedback about how it has turned out so far.
About iterations- absolutely.  Get some cheap cloth or take old bedsheets and make the pattern, try it out, figure where you need to modify etc. before cutting into your good stuff. Draw modifications and make notes to yourself straight on the mockup. Pull it apart and trace it on your real material. Once youíve got a good base pattern in cloth, you can use it over and over again.
For Kama: to finish the edges on the pleather, you can try out bias tape.  Since the inside surface looks pretty raw you may want a lining.  For lining you can get away with lightweight cotton broadcloth- usually low-cost and comes in a full rainbow, and usually you can find tape in a perfect match, or you can get wild and pull in a nice complementary color to set off the shell and lining. With that grey a bright primary color feels right.  Maybe yellow, with some black edging?
Alternative option, use a lining still, but roll the pleather edges over to the inside and stitch it. Look for tutorials about rolled hems.  Same principle, but you may need to up size the width you roll to deal with the thickness. Also I recommend that you stitch through all the layers with two parallel lines of visible running stitch instead of trying to make it concealed.  It will flatten the pleather and cloth sandwich and stay securely.

If youíre going post imperial the vests look like they commonly have leather or leather like shoulder straps so thereís another potential use. 

RC-3141


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Re: RC-3141's Soft Goods WIP Thread
« Reply #7 on: Nov 12, 2021, 05:15 PM »
I am going for a modern kit (I really don't want to have to sand the plates on a post-modern kit XD, I've had enough with my weapons builds), and thanks for ALL of the keywords and suggestions for further research! Having a base to work from for figuring out where I'm going is super helpful.

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Discord: RC-3141#5926

Weapons WIP Thread
Armor WIP Thread
Soft Goods WIP Thread

"Do you not know that in a race all the runners run, but only one receives the prize? Run in such a way as to take the prize." 1 Corinthians 9:24
 


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