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 [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods

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Arco'thyel Wyshla


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #25 on: Mar 15, 2022, 12:32 AM »
Thanks for the inputs and encouragements!

I can stand and kneel in the pants just fine, and I can sit, but it certainly is a bit snug when sitting. After thinking it over, I decided to let out the inner seam by another centimeter. I'd like to be able to sit, but as polishvendetta mentioned, I'm not sure if I'll still be able to sit in the rest of my getup. Oh well, don't overthink it! Gotta keep moving forward!

I sewed the hip pockets shut, so when I tried it on later and went to casually put my hands in my pockets, I shed a single tear. Gotta get me some holsters so I have somewhere to put my hands.

I tailored the other pant leg and started on the sleeves. As worried as I was by the sleeves, simply tracing the sleeve seam to paper seems to be doing the trick? I'm not a huge fan of the way the scrub shirt fits my body -- the armpit tugs the whole shirt up when I raise my arm -- but my Alor'ad checked the fit at the armor party and said it'll work out fine since we don't raise our arms. For my future flightsuit, I definitely want to figure out that perfect fit...

Now, fit check! Looking for "approvable" rather than "flawless". The gray fabric is my test bedsheet, and if it gets Ruus'alor approval, it will be replaced with the scrubs fabric.





I grabbed some screenshots from episode 5 for fit reference:









So, some notes...

  • I will extend the sleeve by another two or three inches. It fits when my arm is straight, but does not cover my skin when I bend my arm.
  • I will bring in the spats by an inch or so. It is baggy. I may install a zipper / velcro first to make sure it fits right.
  • The neck seal, in bedsheet form, crumples easily. It won't show neckmeat due to the balaclava, but still looks sloppy. I'll add something to stabilize it at some point if the final fabric needs it.

Up next: check fit with Ruus'alors. Adjust as needed. Transfer to final fabric!

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| Hard Goods WIP | Soft Goods WIP | Planning Log |

"Visit Mandalore before Mandalore visits you. Take home some souvenirs—a slab of uj cake and a smack in the mouth." ―Baltan Carid

"Don’t take this the wrong way you guys, but uh, Mandalorians are crazy." ―Ezra Bridger
Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #26 on: Mar 15, 2022, 10:46 AM »
This is looking great.  I love all your different pieces.

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Arco'thyel Wyshla


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #27 on: Mar 24, 2022, 06:44 PM »
Thanks, polishvendetta!


Ruus'alor approved -- sleeve time!

I keep intending to take pics that show my steps, but get caught up in the build -- oops! If anyone reading this has questions, feel free to reach out.

To add the sleeves, I laid the shirt flat and traced the outline of the sleeve hole. I started on tissue paper to get the rough shape, then transferred to printer paper to refine that line. I put the scrubs shirt on and measured from the armhole seam to my wrist and extended my pattern by that length. I measured the widest part of my hand and made sure the bottom of the sleeve pattern was that wide. Tah dah!





Then I tested it on a bedsheet, as seen in the previous post. This is key, because I could check how it looks and feels when I bend my arms, etc. I discovered the sleeve needed to be 2" longer to cover my wrist when I bend my arm, and it needed to be 2" less wide at the armhole to fit the scrub seam.

Then comes the scary part: cannibalizing that $30 pair of pants that is your only source of matching fabric. Eek. While cutting into the fabric, we may as wellcut what we need for the neck seal. Look a few posts up in the thread to see how I drafted the pattern.

For the collar piece, I decided to double layer it so it wasn't as flimsy. I also practiced some PI top stitching! Good thing it's black thread, otherwise my inconsistent line spacing would be obvious. ;D Sewing the curved edge of the skirt to the straight edge of the neck piece was much harder this time around. Took a lot of very careful pinning. I cut notches into the seam allowance to help straighten it out.





I was planning on keeping the back side as a raw edge, but I figured I'd try adding an edge to it. I'm glad I did, it's more stable now. I did this by cutting a square of fabric, folding all four of its edges inwards, folding the square piece over the skirt's raw edge, and sewing.



Add velcro patches and here we are! Basic flight suit is done.







Boy, in hindsight, I should have gotten the biggest pair of pants possible to cannibalize for fabric. Here's all that's left. Not much room for pockets or pouches if I wanted any.



Up next is to make a duct tape pattern for my flak vest!

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"Visit Mandalore before Mandalore visits you. Take home some souvenirs—a slab of uj cake and a smack in the mouth." ―Baltan Carid

"Don’t take this the wrong way you guys, but uh, Mandalorians are crazy." ―Ezra Bridger

Arco'thyel Wyshla


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #28 on: Mar 26, 2022, 01:33 AM »
Convention is officially one month away! Gonna do daily mini-updates to keep myself on track. Today's mini-update is, I officially have a duct tape dummy for my flak vest! I also ordered a new hotend for my printer in hopes I can get a bigger helmet printed.

The plan for the next few days: Tomorrow I'll figure out how to turn it into a pattern, Sunday I'll test it on a bedsheet, Monday I'll do a fabric / hobby store run.

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| Hard Goods WIP | Soft Goods WIP | Planning Log |

"Visit Mandalore before Mandalore visits you. Take home some souvenirs—a slab of uj cake and a smack in the mouth." ―Baltan Carid

"Don’t take this the wrong way you guys, but uh, Mandalorians are crazy." ―Ezra Bridger

Arco'thyel Wyshla


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #29 on: Mar 28, 2022, 12:39 AM »
Today's mini-update: I have the pattern and am working on the bedsheet test. Tomorrow I'll finish up the test fit and purchase the final fabric. Also, after some more troubleshooting, my 3D printer may be in working order now?? Will test it out in the coming days!

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| Hard Goods WIP | Soft Goods WIP | Planning Log |

"Visit Mandalore before Mandalore visits you. Take home some souvenirs—a slab of uj cake and a smack in the mouth." ―Baltan Carid

"Don’t take this the wrong way you guys, but uh, Mandalorians are crazy." ―Ezra Bridger
Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #30 on: Mar 28, 2022, 08:22 PM »
These are looking fantastic! You've put a lot of time into this and it definitely shows!  :like:

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Arco'thyel Wyshla


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #31 on: Mar 29, 2022, 02:17 AM »
Thanks a bunch, JoyfulPhoenix! I feel like I'm rushing this for the deadline and am learning as I go, so it's great to hear positive feedback. :cookie:





Time to figure out the pattern for my vest! Here's my duct tape dummy. We traced where the chest plate lays and where the center / side lines are. In retrospect, I should have traced those center / side lines when it was off of me, I got a much more accurate line that way.





For the pattern, I started by figuring out where I want to cut open the sides (my design is an open side buckle closure). Then I traced where the basic shoulder blade and princess seams are. Then I cut out those pieces to see if they lay flat. For my body type, I needed a lot more than the basic princess seams to get the pattern pieces to lay flat, so I experimented to find the lines that would do so, then tested the resulting pattern on a bedsheet. It turned out like this:







I wanted the sides of the vest to follow the outline of the chest plate:



Then I threw on some placeholder waist items to see if the pattern needs to be longer, since I want to do a faux connected kama / flak. I need to check over the CRLs again regarding what can and cannot touch...



The bedsheet is much flimsier and stretchier than the canvas I'll be using, so it's not a perfect reference, but it was still an excellent practice piece! I learned more about sewing curves and sharp angles, and that I may need to lower the V-neck and extend the flak.

Okay, TOMORROW's the day I go get fabric. :laugh: I keep falling behind my mini-deadlines I set for myself!

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| Hard Goods WIP | Soft Goods WIP | Planning Log |

"Visit Mandalore before Mandalore visits you. Take home some souvenirs—a slab of uj cake and a smack in the mouth." ―Baltan Carid

"Don’t take this the wrong way you guys, but uh, Mandalorians are crazy." ―Ezra Bridger

Karson Wren


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #32 on: Mar 29, 2022, 01:15 PM »
Nice, starting to come together.  :D

Arco'thyel Wyshla


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #33 on: Apr 09, 2022, 12:06 AM »
Thanks!


More progress! I've been working on the sash and the flak.

For the sash, I used hopsack linen from Joann's. I made it one foot wide to allow it to bunch up or stretch wider as needed. It was long enough to wrap around my waist twice, but needed to be a bit longer, so I cut it in half and added a two-foot block in the middle. That way the seams are less likely to be noticed than if I'd added it to the ends. I will likely dye it to tone down the color in the future, but for now, I'm happy! Not much in the way of WIP images, but here's what the center block looks like.



For the vest, I used canvas duck cloth from Joann's. This was tough to work with! Very stiff, but that's what makes it a good plate carrier. I decided to make it one layer to be more breathable.

Sewing the curves and corners were tough. Had to make good use of that ironing board to flatten things out. I also had to cut notches into the seam allowance as shown in order to get it to lay correctly:



The back panel! I used some tan thread to add topstitching details. The stitches are uneven and wobbly -- I wonder if that's because I don't have a heavyweight needle or thread? Even so, I'm embracing the imperfect aesthetic.



I'm digging the topstitching. It reminds me of the art deco architecture of Sundari:



Now onto the front panel -- much more complicated! Lots of curved and angled panels.



The seam allowance quickly got bulky. I tried cutting it away at the points where they meet to keep it from bunching up...



And here's where I am! Getting closer...



Test fit! Featuring some size rings on my helmet.







Really excited to get the buckles on so it fits better! :porg2:

Up next: lower the neckline, add topstitching on the center line, add buckles!

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"Visit Mandalore before Mandalore visits you. Take home some souvenirs—a slab of uj cake and a smack in the mouth." ―Baltan Carid

"Don’t take this the wrong way you guys, but uh, Mandalorians are crazy." ―Ezra Bridger

Second Son


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #34 on: Apr 09, 2022, 11:00 AM »
Excellent stuff vod.  Showing the seams and the construction so others can learn too, love it.

You might try using tea to age your sash - once you've got it all finished, dunk it in some weak tea (make it with used tea bags or cheap stuff) and let it dry to slightly stain it before doing any other weathering work. You can do it a few times to build layers and dip some parts more than others, use resist techniques or scrunch it up and just dip the peaks of the folds - endless possibilities. 

Coming along nicely!

Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #35 on: Apr 14, 2022, 08:18 PM »
Wow! I really enjoy seeing your process, gives me courage to continue my first build, I feel a little less lost now. Thank you for all the informative pictures!

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Arco'thyel Wyshla


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #36 on: Apr 15, 2022, 12:15 AM »
Excellent stuff vod.  Showing the seams and the construction so others can learn too, love it.

You might try using tea to age your sash - once you've got it all finished, dunk it in some weak tea (make it with used tea bags or cheap stuff) and let it dry to slightly stain it before doing any other weathering work. You can do it a few times to build layers and dip some parts more than others, use resist techniques or scrunch it up and just dip the peaks of the folds - endless possibilities. 

Coming along nicely!

Good idea! I'm thinking of dying it gray in the future, but I may have time to throw some tea staining on it for the con...

Wow! I really enjoy seeing your process, gives me courage to continue my first build, I feel a little less lost now. Thank you for all the informative pictures!

Glad to hear it, that's why I try and remember to take WIP pics! I was intimidated too, but I'm glad that I'm getting started instead of forever procrastinating like I was doing. If I can stumble my way through learning how to sew, you can, too! ;)





The past few days I lost hope in my 3D printer, so I've been Clone Warsin' and flak vestin'!

I started by lowering the neckline and finishing the topstitching on the vest, then I added a panel on top of the shoulder seam. That seam could use the reinforcement since it will be holding most of the weight. Obligatory iron hearts wherever possible!



Next, onto the buckles. These buckles looked much too chrome -- they're shinier than my beskar, that simply won't do! -- so I took the time to sand them down. Seems these were only plated silver, there's a coppery undertone to them, which works out well for me. They were still pretty shiny after sanding so I added some matte mod podge on them, too.



I made adjustable straps using the same canvas material:



Underside shot:



In retrospect, I should have tightened down those strap holders some more -- they move a bit too freely. I'll see if I can fix them in the next few days.

Ta dah! Fits much nicer!







Pretty excited! As a special bonus, the buckles make a delightful jingly sound when I walk. Who needs spurs?

Due to my 3D printer refusing to cooperate and print me a helmet that fits, I've been mentally preparing myself to shelve my mando for the upcoming con next week... but this flak vest is too motivating, I'm going to see if I can make my bad helmet print work. I'll shift focus to my hard goods WIP the next few days!

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"Visit Mandalore before Mandalore visits you. Take home some souvenirs—a slab of uj cake and a smack in the mouth." ―Baltan Carid

"Don’t take this the wrong way you guys, but uh, Mandalorians are crazy." ―Ezra Bridger

Karson Wren


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #37 on: Apr 15, 2022, 10:26 AM »
This vest looks fantastic, mando architecture asthetic for sure.

Vercopaanir


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #38 on: Apr 15, 2022, 07:31 PM »
That vest looks amazing!  I am loving the angles and topstitching!!

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Senra Qiin


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #39 on: Apr 20, 2022, 02:25 PM »
Been watching this thread silently and I think it’s about time I post. Your work is impeccable Arco! Everything looks amazing and oh so Swarzy.

Keep up the awesome work! :like:

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Arco'thyel Wyshla


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #40 on: Jul 03, 2022, 06:17 PM »
Thank you for the wonderful comments! I'm hoping to make a matching kama with the same aesthetic as the vest. I think it'll look snazzy!





Back into the swing of things, I made a cape! There's probably a more professional way to make one, but I just winged it. Here's how I did it.

The base of it is one layer of gray flannel, about 60 x 28 inches, plus another layer of tan flannel to make the detail panel. The detail panel is based on narglatch spikes, but it ended up looking more like flames, which isn't the worst thing in the world.



I stitched the gray and tan panels together around the outside edge, flipped it inside out, and topstitched around the outer cape edge to keep the shape crisp.



Since the detail panel only goes halfway up the cape, to finish the remainder of the outer cape edges, I had to roll the gray edges together and topstitch over that.



When it came to connecting the top of the tan detail panel to the gray base, I used a zigzag stitch. I played around with the settings on scrap fabric until I found a stitch length that looked nice. For a rougher look, sew on the inside of the detail fabric. For a cleaner look, make sure the edge of the detail fabric is between the zigzag stitch. You can see both in this pic of my test scrap:



Be mindful of your pins while you're doing this, they may make it hard to keep the detail fabric flat.

Also heads up, it takes a TON of thread to do the zigzag stitch. Make sure you have plenty, or you'll almost run out and panic that you'll never find a color match because you found this thread in the junk drawer and they probably stopped making it in the 80s. Ask me how I know...

Next was to add a mythosaur decal. I based it off of this CotW version:



After sketching out a version of the logo I liked, I cut it out of the tan fabric and sewed it directly onto the cape.



I did backstitching to keep my thread from unravelling, and the backstitching is visible. If you really want a clean look, you may have to look into alternate methods to prevent it, but I was fine with it on mine:



Next up is how to attach the cape around your neck. I based mine off of Din Djarin's cape, and I recommend looking into tutorials for it. The U-hole for the neck was 14 inches long in my case. I pleated the ends and added a pleather detail with a Din-V1-shaped iron heart to conceal the velcro closure. If you want to glue sintra to pleather, be sure there is no paint on the underside of the sintra, as that didn't stick down with the superglue very well!



As far as weathering goes, a torch at our armor party was the most exciting! I put on the cape and spun around to see where the flames from my gauntlets would be most likely to singe. I also added some narglatch claw marks that another clan member was kind enough to patch up. Most importantly, I watered down some acrylics and sprayed them over the entire cape -- that's what made the biggest difference! I recommend a large spray bottle for this, as I had to refill the small one several times.

Final step: be majestic!





I believe it needs more weathering, I'll have to get some screenshots of Din's cape.

Up next, I have some upgrades to do to those pouches I made. I'll be sure to share a build writeup on them.

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| Hard Goods WIP | Soft Goods WIP | Planning Log |

"Visit Mandalore before Mandalore visits you. Take home some souvenirs—a slab of uj cake and a smack in the mouth." ―Baltan Carid

"Don’t take this the wrong way you guys, but uh, Mandalorians are crazy." ―Ezra Bridger

Karson Wren


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #41 on: Jul 03, 2022, 07:41 PM »
Looks great  :like:

I like that it's got a pattern and it isn't just a blank piece of cloth.

Senra Qiin


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #42 on: Jul 03, 2022, 09:59 PM »
Wizard, Arco!

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Cattriss Wren


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #43 on: Jul 05, 2022, 07:28 AM »
 :o master piece!

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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #44 on: Jul 08, 2022, 07:19 PM »
I think one of my first updates to my kit once I get OM will be a cape update and this is really cool and inspiring. Can't wait to see what comes next.

Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #45 on: Jul 09, 2022, 05:43 AM »
What a fantastic WIP. Your preparation, organisation and eye for detail is so impressive. I'm going to check out your armour WIP. Love it!

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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #46 on: Jul 20, 2022, 09:41 AM »
Today's update! I put the pattern to fabric. I have several thoughts...



  • The fit needs adjusted -- the front is too baggy.

  • The fabric doesn't really suit the boot... or does it just need weathering?

  • I won't be able to add the hem or the detail panels I was planning on because it needs to be able to stretch over the boot. I can add the detailing if I open up the back seam, but then I need to figure out closures...

  • Instead of adding the details I want, does this plain version work to make me wearable? Perhaps I should move to other parts of the kit and come back to pretty this up when I'm not on a time crunch?

I would suggest looking at a pair of U.S. military gaiters. They might inspire some solutions.

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Arco'thyel Wyshla


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #47 on: Sep 07, 2022, 08:17 PM »
Thanks for all the lovely comments and tips!

Phew! I've been away from the forums for quite a while, but rest assured, I'm staying active in the local clan chats and chipping away at my kit. I think it's about time I shared my kama progress.

To recap, a character I'm taking inspiration from is Altaïr. One of my absolute favorite parts of his uniform is the lower shape of the tunic, so I used the general shape for my kama base.



The first step is to pattern it out. I measured my waist, where the sides will be, and how much I wanted to cover in the front. There's nothing in the CRLs against a kama wrapping the whole way around, but since I'm doing thigh and shin armor, it would be best to open the front more to make the plates visible. Since the front flaps are pretty narrow, I found I needed to shorten the length of the kama or else the proportions looked strange. I had to cut and tweak a few of these before I settled on one I liked.



(Bonus: Successfully turned kama template into a cat bed!)



(Yes, this is patterned from a gigantic roll of pattern paper a vod brought to an armor party. Yes, we are all extremely jealous. No, I'm afraid they do not know where to buy it -- it will be a very sad day when this roll runs out!)

Once I got a good base, I had to decide on a pattern for the panels to cut out. I sketched out a few on my phone before deciding on one.









Now, time to cut fabric! I decided to use the same canvas as my flak vest, and two layers for durability. This probably won't flow as beautifully as Altaïr's, but it'll match my kit better. If the stiffness drives me crazy, I may remake it in the future, but for now I have to get going with my build.



Typically, I would sew the whole garment together first and THEN add decorative topstitching. However, since I want to add chainmail panels in the sides, I couldn't add decorative stitching that way without sewing the hole shut. I opted to do the detail stitching on each panel individually before sewing them together. Sadly, my concerns about this method were realized: the spacing of the detail stitching is inconsistent... oh well. Perfectionism is the death of progress, so I'll keep it as is.

For the front flaps, I decided on a Fennec-Shand-style detail panel. I usually backstitch my thread to keep it from unravelling, but since the backstitching would be very visible here, I took some tips I learned from Falke's thread and used a hand needle to move all threads to the back and tie them off individually. It's tedious, but it looks great!













Underside complete!



Topside complete!



After flipping it inside out, it was comically puffy! Looked better after ironing it flat.



Added a velcro attachment under the sash, and voila!

A quick pic thrown together the second it was done, featuring some stolen gear...



Gotta spray some watered down acrylics to match the rest of the kit!



Not super thrilled with how bunchy it is -- the stiff canvas doesn't handle curves or turn inside out very well. I'll keep working with it and seeing how flat I can get it.

Well, that's it for now! The next soft goods will be pouches and possibly a custom belt. I'm shifting focus to the hard goods thread for now -- time to get some plates done!

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"Visit Mandalore before Mandalore visits you. Take home some souvenirs—a slab of uj cake and a smack in the mouth." ―Baltan Carid

"Don’t take this the wrong way you guys, but uh, Mandalorians are crazy." ―Ezra Bridger

Karson Wren


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #48 on: Sep 08, 2022, 09:06 AM »
This looks as usual, *amazing*

Really looking forward to seeing what you can do for hard plates.

Senra Qiin


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Re: [WIP] Arco’s Post-Imperial soft goods
« Reply #49 on: Sep 10, 2022, 11:48 AM »
Haven’t checked in for a while, but you’ve made some amazing progress, Arco!  :<3:

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