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[Matchstick1021]

I really like the latex, it’s more robust then the stuff meant for prosthetics and I like it dries a solid color. Thanks for the recommendation!

[Matchstick1021]

Got the first layer of yellow down. Following stormtrooperguy’s tutorial for paining on TDH the yellow is rust-oleum line stripping yellow.





Very bright but it can be toned down with washes later if needed.

[Mi'ix]

I like the yellow.

Good clean paint application.

No washes on Boba, at least the armor plates. Strictly subtle air brush misting to dial it all back.

[Matchstick1021]

No washes on Boba, at least the armor plates. Strictly subtle air brush misting to dial it all back.

Oh no kidding? Interesting, glad you said something. I’ll get to practicing with the airbrush then!

[Matchstick1021]

So I had already begun masking for the dark green coat when I noticed this lighter green at the top of the chest plate.


It’s burry but it’s there. So I’ll be hitting that area with my version of spruce green and then masking that out as well.

I also got an update on the jet pack, it should be ready to ship by the end of next week, I’m not in any hurry for it but it’ll be nice to get.

I’m also still looking for a bucket. I had my eye on minutefett’s new esb helmet but that is a cleaned up version of the esb cast and so wouldn’t have all the molded in damage of the SE bucket. So not sure of the best course of action yet.

[Mi'ix]

ESB was a layered paint job.  I believe everything else was done topically.  I would do it that way if you could help it to preserve the proper look.

[Matchstick1021]

You’re thinking do the lighter green on top of the dark?

[Mi'ix]

That's one way to do it.

The lighter green is likely a scrape or some sort of damage that occurred in storage between filming. The weathering over top of the base green likely got scraped off so I might even paint all your colors, do your weathering then go back and scratch off select spots to get the look right.

[Matchstick1021]

Alright I got a practical question, so I’m trimming my back plate and I’m making sure to leave plenty of meat at the top of the shoulders since the collar needs to over lap them and be connected via the studs.

My question is do you guys unscrew the studs each time to put on and remove the back plate? Or how does your system work? My flack vest opens up the back so I think I’ll need to remove the back each time I kit up, which doesn’t sound like a lot of fun but I’m not seeing an alternative at the moment. 

[Mi'ix]

Heh.

Heh.

Both my Protector and Fett are screwed into place each time.

Just wait until you get the scuba tank harness.

If you're going the screw in stud route, make sure to glue some neoprene washers to the underside so the metal doesn't scratch your paint!

[Matchstick1021]

Haha
I’m was hoping for a “no there’s actually this really easy way” sort of answer. I shoulda known 

Alrighty then I’ll go that stud route!

[Matchstick1021]

Alright…so I’m pretty nervous about this but here goes nothing.  I’ve completed the main painting of the chest and ab plate.

I’ll need to go back in and add those small scratches, but let me know what you think!

These are some of the references pictures I’ve been using as a reference.




The yellow looks a bit bright to me but what do you all think? I’ll also get some pictures in some more natural light since these were taken just under my desk lights.


Also in other news my flack vest from arkady came in much faster then I had expected.


I’m going to get some pictures of myself wearing everything but I’m pretty sure I’m going to add a princess (?) seam to the back of the flight suit to bring it in a bit. After I get the sizing right it’ll be on to dyeing.

[Matchstick1021]

Alright I need some suggestions on a helmet.

Minutefett has his new esb lineage helmet,  from what I understand it’s a cleaned up version of the original esb helmet. My question is since I’m doing the SE I actually want all those molded in cracks and imperfections correct? So that helmet isn’t the best fit for me?

Does that sound about right or can a cleaned up version work just fine?

[Mi'ix]

You do NOT want the cleaned up version for SE.

[Ru'Stor Rawr]

You do NOT want the cleaned up version for SE.

This ^

[Matchstick1021]

You do NOT want the cleaned up version for SE.

Yep I was afraid of this ok! I’ll keep on looking.

[Matchstick1021]

Alright I’ve got a knee question. For the left knee it will need to be the PP2 knee. My current knee is very obviously not the correct knee because it has different dents then in the references pictures.




So I can fill those dents no problem but it’s adding the additional dent that is called for in the brl that concerns me.

I can try to make the dent but I just see that going poorly should I be looking for a true PP2 knee? What do you suggest?

[Matchstick1021]

More knee questions

So the BRL says that

Knee armor must be painted deep yellow and must feature exposed silver and tan damage. 

The tan is what’s throwing me.


But the yellow weathering on knee looks like it matches the weathering on the shoulder.



Which clearly isn’t tan.

So am I seeing something wrong? I’m not really sure what color to do, because to me it looks like it should be a lighter yellow like the shoulders. Any clarification is greatly appreciated!

[Mi'ix]

If your knees are made of ABS, you can very slowly heat the surface of the knee and make the dent with a rounded type object like a bottle cap or something similar.

You just want a lighter yellow that contrasts with the base color of the knee.

[Ru'Stor Rawr]

Are you saying that you are not seeing the tan? 

The tan is on the yellow not under it, the pics are not the best quality but take a look, these may help you.

[Matchstick1021]

If your knees are made of ABS, you can very slowly heat the surface of the knee and make the dent with a rounded type object like a bottle cap or something similar.
 

Copy that! I’ll be heating up that knee and adding the dent here soon.

Are you saying that you are not seeing the tan? 

The tan is on the yellow not under it, the pics are not the best quality but take a look, these may help you.

Ok that makes so much more sense, for some reason I was thinking the tan was referring to the weathering under the yellow not on top I see exactly what they are calling out now, thank you!
Anyone have a good color for that? I’m going to start looking for a decent airbrush or rattle can color.

Here’s a few progress shots of what I’ve got so far.

Needs another coat of that silver/white on the diamond.


(Hello glare)



Everything definitely needs a matte coat to dull everything down and I’m thinking the yellow on the body plates might be a bit too bright but I was wanting some opinions before I attempted anything.

[Matchstick1021]

I have a chest display from Fi over in the sales threads that’s been programmed to flash the RoTJ sequence. Went ahead and started cutting out the slits



Still needs a bit of trimming before I call it good but you get the picture.

[Matchstick1021]

Alright it’s been a bit, I’m getting ready to weather the plates. Planning on super light misting coats of black from an airbrush. Is there any other techniques I should be using?