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 Practice/Funsies Helmet

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Xplosiv


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Practice/Funsies Helmet
« on: Aug 05, 2022, 04:56 AM »
Su cyu'gar! (Hope that's right, I'm learning xD)

Thanks to Aden Banto, I've recently come into my possession my first bucket, this sweet Nite Owl helmet!


I currently do not have any plans on using a Nite Owl for my kit, but everything I've been doing lately has cause my wife to get bit by the Mando bug xD She's come up with a pretty sweet concept for it that's based off the Snow Owl from ARK. For reference if you're not familiar with it:



Here's also a very rough sketch/doodle she did that shows part of the design she wants to incorporate, the feathers on the brow for that owl aesthetic

(She has told me the forehead diamond is probably gonna be dropped from the final design, so just ignore that bit. I also realize the ear caps aren't really made to accommodate the rangefinder. For this helmet, it's not really gonna matter too much. More on that in just a moment)

There's just one little problem, the helmet is a bit to big for her xP ( I jokingly told her, once we get around to her kit, she could still use it to cosplay the Funko version of herself xD) However, all is not lost!

I was mostly expecting the helmet to be a bit too big for her but, for the price, I saw it would be the perfect opportunity for me to practice some techniques for working on helmets, including smoothing, visor attachment, etc. She's gonna be handling the painting so it gives her practice with working on a scale larger than a 40k mini as well. Worst case scenario, we mess up a helmet that wasn't planned to be used for a final kit anyway and learn a thing or two about what not to do. Best case, we learn methods and techniques that will make our actual buckets look great and get a pretty nice showpiece to display for our efforts. Either way, seems like a win!

So, now that we've gotten the background out of the way, the start of the technical bit  :boba:

I asked Aden about how to finish the smoothing process and this was his response:
Use raw 80 grit sand paper and sand it down really smooth. It'll take awhile but the results will be amazing.
Then use Dupli-Color filler primer (Grey) 2-3 coats then let dry for 24hrs, then repeat the process.
Sand with 220, then 320, then wet sand with 400. Then you're ready to paint.

It was the first I'd heard of using the filler primer for smoothing as most of what I found when I dug around was using Bondo. I was planning on grabbing both this weekend and messing around with each (primer on the outside, Bondo on the inside to see the results) but I was just curious about other people's experiences with them and what, if any, advantages and pitfalls there are to each. Was also hoping for any general tips to help a newbie like me xD

Thanks ahead of time! :boba:

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Practice/Display Helmet

hereticdave


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Re: Practice/Funsies Helmet
« Reply #1 on: Aug 05, 2022, 05:33 AM »
Oya, that looks like a great concept. To answer your questions, filler primer is a lot finer than bondo (or similar filler product). I think the normal process for finishing fdm printed parts is to use bondo as the first stage to fill the lines, sand that all down so it's nice and smooth and then finish any minor imperfections with filler primer. If you use a filler primer that is a different colour to the bondo you'll be able to see where the primer has filled any small bits you may have missed during the bondo stage. Each step may take a couple of applications until you get a result you're happy with.

Xplosiv


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Re: Practice/Funsies Helmet
« Reply #2 on: Aug 05, 2022, 11:20 AM »
Got it, bondo for the "foundation", filler primer for the fine detail.

Cheers for the heads up! :like:

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Xplosiv


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Re: Practice/Funsies Helmet
« Reply #3 on: Aug 06, 2022, 08:14 PM »
Picked some stuff up, not the exact primer but figured it should do the same job? Heard to use the same brand for paints and primers and Rustoleum seems a bit more available by me than Duplicolor


More updates later

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Re: Practice/Funsies Helmet
« Reply #4 on: Today at 12:28 PM »
using bondo as a first step before the primer really helps. i tried out some small parts of my helmet with only filler primer and after 2 layers decided it was going to take forever in comparison to the bondo’d parts so i gave up on that experiment and used bondo. i also recommend trying the glazing and spot putty sometime, it’s premixed so you don’t have to worry about ratios or it drying out before you’ve used it and goes on very easily. testing different techniques on different parts of the helmet is a great idea also!

what i did is: sand with low grit. cover in bondo and sand with 220, 320. filler primer and second round of bondo for any spots that looked troublesome, sand with 320, 400. repeat last step until a final round of primer with only 400. everyone has a different method, and i spent so long researching them before i started, it was fun to see everyone’s process. if you look at my past posts i put up what i hope is a detailed documentation of my own. good luck vod!

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Re: Practice/Funsies Helmet
« Reply #5 on: Today at 01:05 PM »
I've been using Rustoleum for a while and personally thinking about switching.  A lot of the metallic colors I've been using don't seem to fully dry.  I've gotten away with it so far but there's been some finish issues that have made me wonder if a different brand would be better.

I've heard the main thing is you want to avoid mixing different types of paints, as they can wrinkle or crack.  I have some Rustoleum enamal that always causes me issues when clear coating.

Duplicolor is sold mainly in auto parts stores.

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Xplosiv


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Re: Practice/Funsies Helmet
« Reply #6 on: Today at 01:08 PM »
As promised, update!

Took a bit longer than I expected but got a bit done. Started last night, realized it was getting late and didn't want to potentially annoy my neighbors with dremeling and sanding textured plastic, and came back at it a bit this morning. The results:



(The pink bondo(?) was put on before I bought it so I can't take credit for that. Also only just realized I didn't grab and pics from sanding down and opening up one of the earcaps xP)

After that, since I had to go run a quick errand that would take about 20 mins, I decided to try my hand at the bondo and here's the initial results:





Labels weren't kidding on how fast this stuff starts to harden xD Gonna have to adjust my batches in the future. However, after a bit of sanding I dare say it's somewhat looking good:




Think it could still use a bit more sanding. However, since I still need to hit the other almost half with bondo, I figure I'll just finish it off after that.

Also, was hoping to get to test the filler primer out a bit too, but it would seem mother nature had other plans for me xP


Oh well, maybe another day.

Depending on when I get up, might have another update later today. Otherwise, I'll probably get back to work on my flight suit.

i also recommend trying the glazing and spot putty sometime, it’s premixed so you don’t have to worry about ratios or it drying out before you’ve used it and goes on very easily.

Cheers for the tips, vod! This specifically. I saw it after finding the can that needs to be mixed at my local O'Reilly's (along with dupli-color xP who would've guessed I'd find the auto body paint at the auto parts store xD). Only reason I didn't grab it to try it was because I had convinced myself I'd seen a premix tube of just "body filler" somewhere and I would just try my hand at the can before I potentially messed up with "something different" xD. I get overly cautious with brand new things, but I'll definitely be grabbing the glazing and spot putty next time I see it now.

what i did is: sand with low grit. cover in bondo and sand with 220, 320. filler primer and second round of bondo for any spots that looked troublesome, sand with 320, 400. repeat last step until a final round of primer with only 400. everyone has a different method, and i spent so long researching them before i started, it was fun to see everyone’s process. if you look at my past posts i put up what i hope is a detailed documentation of my own. good luck vod!

Currently my plan is similar with the only exception is that I'm still abusing the bondo with 80 grit, mostly due to it was still on a bit thick once it started to dry. I'll definitely be checking out your posts later to take notes xD

All I got for now. As always, comments, tips, critiques, etc always welcome!

Until next time!  :boba:

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I've been using Rustoleum for a while and personally thinking about switching.  A lot of the metallic colors I've been using don't seem to fully dry.  I've gotten away with it so far but there's been some finish issues that have made me wonder if a different brand would be better.

I've heard the main thing is you want to avoid mixing different types of paints, as they can wrinkle or crack.  I have some Rustoleum enamal that always causes me issues when clear coating.

Duplicolor is sold mainly in auto parts stores.

Didn't see your response until after I posted xD

This helmet isn't planned to have a metallic basecoat (wife wants to hand paint the battle damage) but I was planning to do the metallic/latex thing with my actual helmet, so cheers for the heads up on the rustoleum metallics. I didn't give them more then an "so that's where they are" look at O'Reilly's, does duplicolor do metallics? I was liking rustoleum cuz theyvwere a couple bucks cheaper, but I always forget cheaper sometimes comes with hidden costs xP

I have heard about the mixing colors problem as well. Another reason I liked rustoleum cuz they seemed to have a wide selection at my local home depot. Is the enamel issue another rustoleum issue? Or did that have to do with mixing paints?

« Last Edit: Today at 01:16 PM by Xplosiv » Logged
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