Kind of took a break on this project once winter hit since I wasn't able to work on my armor due to the weather. Been working on the flight suit jacket the past couple weeks!
Based on my observations, I note seams at the midway point on the armscye on the front as well as on the princess seam at the waist. I can't quite tell on the back, but there is a 2-part sleeve, so I've concluded this is the likely shape of the bodice. Based on the placket in the center back (only visible because the exhibit used a too-tall mannequin) and no evidence of a front closure, my guess is the closure is in the back. I started by pinning twill tape to my dress form where I wanted my seams to be and pinned it out in some muslin. Draping is pretty much pinning-and-clipping until you get the desired fit. Once I pinned in the bodice shape, I eased off on the side seams a little to give some ease to the fit. Then I draw in the lines where the pins are on both sides of the muslin, unpin the pattern and clean up the lines.
Once I've finished cleaning up the lines on the muslin, I transfer it to pattern paper with a tracing wheel and further true up the lines with various rulers, making sure all the lines match up, are smooth etc. When working with patterns, I never add in seam allowances. It's much more precise and easier to make changes to draw on the stitch lines and just add seam allowance when you transfer the pattern to fabric directly.
Next I constructed my mock-up in a similar material to my real flightsuit. I'm starting with patterning and testing the fit of the mandarin collar first. It'll be beneath the neckseal, but I sewed on my draft collar to make sure it sits in the right place and is confortable. Then I draped and patterned my neckseal collar on top of this.
The neck seal, I noticed, had a seam at the side. I'm not sure if that's necessary, but I put it in there anyway :lol: I ended up flaring it out a little there so it wouldn't be too snug to the mandarin collar. I shortened the mandarin collar as there really is no need for it to go all the way to the center back as it is covered and I wanted to reduce bulk. I figured based off the pictures that the neckseal collar is a single layer with the top folded over, and that the suede trim you see along the top of the collar just backs the entire thing. I folded and topstitched them together. The suede (felt, for the prototype) is not included in the seam allowance to reduce bulk. I have the top of the seal going about to the base of the skull, that should give good coverage. When trying on my prototype, I was sure to turn my head and altered the collar shape based on where my ears were hitting it.
I installed a separating zipper with a long pull (just something I had in my stash) up through the neck seal. I ended up taking back the edges of the neck seal and sandwiching the zipper tape between it and the suede. I put a placket behind to prevent anything from getting stuck in the zipper teeth and the center back panel to cover the zipper. I noticed the hex/ironheart motif repeated from the pants near the neck and the back. Not sure on placement, but it doesn't really matter as it'll be covered. I'll probably add a snap to the top of the zipper cover so it stays put. I noticed when putting this on myself that the long pull really helped, so I'm going to try to find one when I order the zipper for the actual suit.
Just put on the waistband and next up is drafting the sleeves... my least favorite part
