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[Rianne Royale]

Bo-Katan Kryze (The Mandalorian: Season 2)

My name is Stephanie Rianne, an unofficial member of the Raquor'daan Clan. I decided to build Bo-Katan Kryze from The Mandalorian: Season 2 as my first kit because she is also an approved 501st costume and part of the Bounty Hunter’s Guild detachment. Once completed, and approved, I can wear this kit to MMCC and 501st events.

This first post consists of an outline of each item with a list of materials, research notes, build notes, and will be updated with each WIP post.  I will first begin patterning the flak vest, flight suit shirt, and flight suit pants. As a starting point, I purchased the patterns from Sionnach Studios. While the patterns are not screen-accurate, they serve as a good guide.

Note: I am using medieval armor terminology compared to the terminology used in the MMCC and 501st CRLs because it has caused confusion on my part. 

FABRIC

• Flight suit sleeves, collar, front/side front shirt, inner-knee, knee, upper calves, & flak vest: Cotton Chino Twill in Charcoal
• Mid back: Caye Urban UV Protective Compression Swimwear Tricot with Aloe Vera Microcapsules
• Crotch gusset, lower side, & upper side back: Sustainable Imported Cotton Spandex in Carbon
• Lower back, lower side back, & armpit gusset: Gray Stretch Cotton and Polyester Twill
• Side front/back pants & upper side shirt: Stretch Cotton Twill in Charcoal
• Buttocks: Charcoal Ultra-Stretch Twill 7.5 Ounce
• Under sleeve & calves: Dark Grey Ultra-Stretch Twill 7.5 Ounce
• Neck seal: Ribbed Spandex Fabric in Marine Navy

SOFT PARTS

Flak Vest
Materials needed:

• 3/4 yd charcoal gray cotton twill
• 3/4 yd lining
• 3/4 oz vegetable tanned leather, dark brown
• Fusible interfacing
• Thin quilter’s batting
• 1/2” wide leather bias tape

Pattern Pieces:

• Front
• Upper side front
• Lower side front
• Side back
• Back
• Shoulder patch
• Front band
• Side band
• Back band
• Zipper cover strip
• Bias tape

Notes:

• 2-3 oz. of brown leather with a reddish tint that is smooth.
• Separating zipper back closure.
• Cover strip over zipper.
• The leather shoulder panels feature 16 lines of topstitching. The first and last topstitch are a contrasting color while the rest are brown to match the leather. The front and back edge have a separate piece of leather folded over the edge like bias tape but with raw edge visible on top. The raw edge overlaps with the second row. The panels are not covered by the bias tape.
• The leather side panels feature 7 lines (8 rows, needle position 1.8/-1.8) of topstitching that match the leather. The 9 lines as mentioned in the CRL include the seam between the leather and twill. The seams are twin topstitched.
• The center front feathers 8 lines (7 rows) of topstitching between the shoulder panels.
• The topstitching of the princess seams on the back extends into the band and aligns with band seams.
• These seams align with the princess seams on the shirt.

Seams & Topstitching:

• Shoulder seams pressed open.
• Side front seam pressed toward center front. Topstitching to right of seam.
• Lower side front seam pressed toward side seam. Topstitching to left of seam.
• Side seams pressed open. Topstitching to left and right of seam.
• Back side seam pressed toward center back. Topstitching to left and right of seam.
• Upper back seam pressed open. Topstitching to left and right of seam.

Flight Suit Shirt
Materials needed:

• 2 yds charcoal gray cotton twill
• ½ yd gray stretch cotton twill
• 2-3 oz. of brown leather with a reddish tint that is smooth (same as flak vest)
• Fusible interfacing
• Thin quilter’s batting

Pattern Pieces:

• Outer sleeves
• Under sleeves
• Short sleeves
• Front (left & right)
• Side front (left & right)
• Lower side (stretch twill, darker than upper side)
• Upper side (stretch twill)
• Lower side back (left & right)
• Lower center back
• Mid center back (stretch twill)
• Upper center back (tapered to a V)

Notes:

• The leather patch on the back of the collar has 5 rows (4 rows of brown stitching).
• The center front is in alignment with the zipper fly to create the illusion of a single piece (if using two pieces).
• Portions of the under-sleeve are made of a stretch material with a twill weave, slightly lighter than the base color of the suit.
• There is a cover strip over the shoulder seam similar to the cover strip on the back of the flak vest.
• The mid center back princess seam is not top stitched.
• The lower center back seams align with the seam on the pants over the buttocks and is pressed toward the center back.
• The lower side back seams (toward the side) are pressed toward the center back.
• The side front seams (toward the side) are pressed toward the front.
• The side front seam (toward the front) aligns with the seams on the pants over the thighs and is pressed away from the front (opposite direction of the pants).

Neck seal
Materials needed:

• Marine navy ribbed spandex/li]
  

Flight Suit Pants
Materials needed:

• 1 ½ yd of charcoal gray cotton twill
• ½ yd gray stretch cotton twill
• 3-4 oz. dark brown leather with grain/texture (same as gaiters)
• Fusible interfacing
• 1 ½” wide Elastic for waistband
• 7” All-purpose zipper

Pattern Pieces:

• Fly
  
• Front
• Upper side front
• Lower side front
• Gusset
• Seat (buttocks)
• Upper side back
• Lower side back
• Knee
• Lower inner thigh
• Poleyn strap tunnel
• Upper calves
• Lower calves

Notes:

• The seat is made of a stretch material with a twill weave, slightly lighter than the base color of the suit.
• The seams over the buttocks are pressed toward the center back.
• There is a dart on the inside and outside of the leg approximately 2 inches below the channel at the back of the knee to conceal the elastic strap for the poleyns.
• The calves, hidden under the gaiters, are a dark grey (almost black) stretch twill.

Girth Belt
Materials needed:

• Dark brown leather

Ammo Belt
Materials needed:

• 4-5 oz. chestnut leather, 10 sq. ft.
• The Heiress buckle set by JJ Industries

Notes:

• Brassroots Leather's pattern
• The pouches are smooth leather

Holsters
Materials needed:

• 4-5 oz. chestnut leather, 10 sq. ft., with and without grain/texture

Notes:

• Brassroots Leather's pattern
• The holsters are smooth leather
• The holster straps have grain/texture like the gaiters

Gaiters
Materials needed:

• Dark brown Leather
• Black leather
• 1" wide Velcro
• Separating antique brass zipper

Notes:

• The zipper is covered by black leather.
• The zipper box and pin are visible.

Greaves Straps
Materials needed:

• Dark brown leather
• Brown Leather
• 1/8″ wide cording

Notes:

• The base layer is the same material as the Ammo Pouches with a rolled edge.
• The center has 5 rows of piping and is the same material as the Girth Belt.

HARD PARTS

Headband
Helmet
Pauldron (shoulder armor)
Cuirass (breastplate & backplate)
Shoulder Straps
Vambrace – Left (forearm guard)
Vambrace – Right (forearm guard)
Demi-Gauntlets (hand and wrist)
Materials needed:

• Nappaglo Nappa Lambskin Curve gloves

Codpiece (pelvic armor)
Tassets (thigh armor)
Poleyn (knee armor)
Greaves (shin armor)
Jet Pack
Westar 35 Blasters

MISCELLANEOUS PARTS

Wig
Sepia lace front wig.
Style: Dahlia
Color: 130 (bright red auburn)

Scar

Boots
Clarks Orinoco Club in Brown Snuff (discontinued) / Sorel Emelie Chelsea in Cattail (discontinued)
Purchased the Clarks Orinoco Club in Brown Snuff, but upon further investigation the Sorel Emelie Chelsea boot in cattail appears to be more accurate based on the Dented Helmet Mandalorian exhibition pictures. The stud on the boots seems to only [strongly] appear in S2E3: The Heiress. While the Clarks Orinoco Club appear to closely resemble the overall shape of the boot as seen on screen in Season 2, the boots in the Dented Helmet’s The Mandalorian Experience exhibition pictures, from 2022, are completely different, do not have studs, and appear to be the same boots used in Season 3.

Notes:

• The top corners of the toe strip are slightly rounded and are a slightly lighter color than boots.

[Ru'Stor Rawr]

Oh yeah!!

[Rianne Royale]

Flak Vest Mockup

Originally posted on the Raquor’daan forum on Jan 31, 2023, 10:18 AM

I finished a mockup for the flak vest (except for the bias tape, back closer, and cover strip) to ensure it fits well and that each piece was proportionate. Upon further research, I think the back waistband has seams that align with the princess seams (rather than the top stitching from the princess seams extending into the band). That's an easy fix, though!

I am trying to figure out the proper closure for the back of the vest. According to the 501st CRL, there is a [separating] zipper. However, There appears to be a strip of fabric on the back right underneath the cover strip and, my eyes might be deceiving me, but I think I see some hooks and eyes!  Thoughts?

Flight Suit Shirt Research

As I prepare to work on the flight suit shirt, I have made several observations! There are some items I would like feedback on as I could not find information on the MMCC or 501st CRLs and I will mark those items with Feedback Please.

There appears to be a cover strip, similar to the back of the flak vest, covering the shoulder seams. Feedback Please.

The center front has a zipper closure that is covered and is an extension of the zipper fly of the flight suit pants for the appearance of a one-piece. I will be making mine two pieces.

There is no side seam. Instead, the side is made up of three panels. The side panel in the middle is made of the same stretch fabric as the seat of the flight suit pants. The back side seam (and topstitching) does not extend to the sleeve like a princess seam. As the upper back is made of twill that is tapered to a V, the middle back is made of stretch twill, and the lower back is made of twill (i.e., three sections).

The front is made of twill and the princess seam is topstitched all the way to the sleeve.

The under sleeve is made of the same stretch fabric as the seat of the flight suit pants.

I also noticed in several scenes that there is something between the flak vest and the flight suit shirt. The pictures are small, so you will have to zoom in. It almost looks like a stunt vest, but I am not sure what to make of it just yet (especially because there appears to be a wire loop near the side back seam in one of the images above). Feedback Please.

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Flak Vest Alterations

Originally posted on the Raquor’daan forum on Feb 15, 2023, 08:09 PM

I've been working on alterations to the mockup as it needed some tweaking in a few areas for a smoother fit. Everything is just pinned for right now. Once the overall fit is finalized (with the addition of a zipper), I will transfer the pieces to pattern paper and sew together the altered mockup.

Flight Suit Pants

I found an old pattern (Vogue V9210) that I had which features center front and back seams. I pinned the pieces together to get an idea of the structure, but the pattern is for stretch fabrics so I definitely need to add more room. Overall, I think it is a great base pattern for the flight suit pants above the knee!

Wig

My base wig arrived and the color is perfect! Depending on the lighting it can look anything between bright and dark auburn. It's a Sepia lace front, style Dahlia, in color 130 that will need to be cut. However, after some thought and my timing with beginning this project, I may have to consider Season 3 Bo-Katan. While the rest of her costume appears to be the same in the trailers, her hair is definitely different (and I prefer the new look).

Swatches

A bunch of swatches I ordered came in and these two seem to be the best color combination between a dark grey cotton twill (center) and a slightly lighter stretch cotton twill (larger piece). In the picture, the colors almost look identical but they aren't. They are definitely better in person and I will be bringing them to the armor party on Saturday for opinions from others.

[Geila Alo]

Oh, I am really looking forward to following your process. Impressive what research you made so far  .

You had three questions that you wanted feedback on.

About the closure for the back of the vest, if there are hooks and eyes. Good eye! In most of the photos you can see a zipper that goes all the way up. Hooks and eyes
is nothing that is required, it's optionaI.

You asked if there a cover strip, similar to the back of the flak vest, covering the shoulder seams.
I think there is a strap that extends from under the vest to the shoulder bell. Koska Reeves has one also but hers is Nylon webbing.

And last, you asked if it is a stunt vest between the flak vest and the flight suit shirt. I don't think there is a stunt vest. The shirt is just lots of layers.

[Bryn Cin'Prudii]

Well I remember talking this - glad the WIp has made its way over here.

Following and Geila has you in good hands

[Rianne Royale]

Flak Vest Mockup 3

At the armor party on March 19th, I worked on a third mockup with quilter’s batting for sizing and topstitching. I may use felt lining rather than quilter’s batting as the decorative topstitching on the center front and contrasting side front is too flat. Additionally, I did not like the behavior of the batting when I pressed the seams. I gave up on attempting mathematics to measure the spacing between the topstitching on the contrasting side front, but I think adjusting the needle position to 2.5 to the right on my machine may work well.

After of the armor party, I worked on altering the armhole for the side front pieces and side back which should be the same width as the band (plus seam allowance for the bias tape).

Notes:

• 3/4 oz. vegetable tanned leather.
• I found this 3/4 oz. vegetable tanned leather by European Leather Works on Etsy to possibly use.
  https://www.etsy.com/listing/924143715/elw-veg-tan-full-grain-leather-cowhide?click_key=32c9b12a83015445d17d2960295be46edc56f7bd%3A924143715&click_sum=49e63195&ga_search_query=3%252F4%2Boz&ref=shop_items_search_9
• Separating zipper back closure.
• Cover strip over zipper.
• The leather shoulder panels feature 16 lines of topstitching. The first and last topstitch are a contrasting color while the rest are brown to match the leather. The front and back edge have a separate piece of leather folded over the edge like bias tape but with raw edge visible on top. The raw edge overlaps with the second row. The panels are not covered by the bias tape.
• The leather side panels feature 7 lines (8 rows, needle position 2.5 to the right) of topstitching that match the leather. The 9 lines as mentioned in the CRL include the seam between the leather and twill. The seams are twin topstitched.
• The center front feathers 8 lines (7 rows) of topstitching between the shoulder panels.
• The topstitching of the princess seams on the back extends into the band and aligns with band seams.
• These seams align with the princess seams on the shirt.

Seams & Topstitching:

• Shoulder seams pressed open.
• Side front seam pressed toward center front. Topstitching to right of seam.
• Lower side front seam pressed toward side seam. Topstitching to left of seam.
• Side seams pressed open. Topstitching to left and right of seam.
• Back side seam pressed toward center back. Topstitching to left and right of seam.
• Upper back seam pressed open. Topstitching to left and right of seam.

Next Steps:

• Conduct batting tests to determine which batting I like
• Pattern the cover strip to conceal the zipper
• Pattern shoulder pieces
• Add zipper
• Add front and back bands

Armor Fitting

Pasqual and James brought 3D-printed chest plates, ab plates, and a helmet to the armor party. I also brought my Black Series helmet to compare the two helmets for sizing.

Accessories

Boots

Unfortunately, the Clarks Orinoco Club Brown Snuff boots are discontinued. However, I was lucky enough to find my size on eBay! I have been breaking them in so they can mold to my feet.

Upon further observation of the zipper on the gaiters, I suspect that the zipper is sewn is backwards. I compared the reverse side of the box and pin of a separating zipper, and their indentations, to reference images and they match.

Gloves

I purchased the Nappaglo Nappa lambskin leather gloves in black (touchscreen version in size medium) from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07548C1SY/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_5?smid=ADARYG0MFKN6S&psc=1

Ammo Belt

The Heiress belt accessory set by JJ Industries, with version 2 of the front buckle, arrived! https://store.jjindustries.co.uk/the-heiress/

I also purchased the Bo-Katan belt pattern by Brassroots Leather to use as a guide: https://www.brassrootsleather.com/product/PDF_Pattern_BK_Leather_Belt/61

According to the pattern, vegetable tanned leather 4-5 oz. thick and 10 sq. ft. is required. I found this 4-5 oz. (12-14 sq. ft.) vegetable tanned leather by European Leather Works on Etsy to possibly use.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1177317596/elw-full-grain-cowhide-leather-4-5-oz-16?click_key=3113eb8704d905a820abac25d368e2ecac4f9241%3A1177317596&click_sum=1efb0a2c&ga_search_query=4-5%2Boz&ref=shop_items_search_4&variation0=2967140722

I plan on dying all leather myself for consistency. Additionally, I am keeping an eye out on Tandy Leather for appropriate leather to use. Any other website recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Flight Suit Shirt & Pants

I noticed that others who have made Bo-Katan prefer to use a two-piece flight suit. I agree with this for ease of bathroom use, however, I also noticed that those who made two pieces have one primary flaw: the shirt rides up. To prevent this, I am thinking about using a separating zipper to attach the shirt to the pants to ensure they are connected all around and align evenly. This way, I can avoid the shirt riding up, and the two pieces can function as a one-piece. Any thoughts on this approach?

I do have a question about the seat of the flight suit. According to the CRL:

• Flightsuit pants back features double horizontal topstitching around the knee up into the lower portion of the seat that connects to vertical topstitches on the backside of the suit.
• Seat of the flightsuit is made of a stretch material with a twill weave, slightly lighter than the base color of the suit.

What would be considered the “seat” of the flight suit? I know the gusset and the buttocks (what I would consider the seat) are a slightly lighter grey than the base color, but this fabric does not appear to extend to the collar. Additionally, which fabric would best represent the undersleeve based on the images below? I think it would be the same as the gusset. Understanding the fabrics will help me when it comes to ordering fabric!

1 and 2 are the side and middle back. The fabric appears to be the same.
3, 3a, & 4 are the side back, lower back, and buttocks. The fabric is different than 1 and 2, but I think that 3 and 3a may be different than 4 (and the gusset pictured below).

[Geila Alo]

Appearance of 2 piece is fine. I don´t think it would be a problem using a separating zipper to attach the shirt to the pants, as long as it's not visible.

The armpit can even be black or grey mesh synthetic.

As for the seat, the "Seat" in the CRL is the lower inner thigh sections

Geila

[Bryn Cin'Prudii]

To add to Geila's feedback -

The circled sections as the gusset are the 4way stretch fabric. We have much better info following Celebration. Id stick to matching the reference materials when possible. I think our terminology is flawed with the words "seat".

Sadly we dont have the posession of these garments and are reverse-engineering the construction. I do know stretch fabrics were used in places that allowed both Katee and her stunt/body doubles to move better than our current suits would allow. From what I am hearing, the inner thigh gusset is not the same material as the armpit gusset.

[tokengothchick]

Following along with great interest! I'm looking to upgrade a few parts of Bo. I'm currently using suspenders to help with the pants, but the zipper idea sounds fantastic!

[Rianne Royale]

Flak Vest Mockup

I haven’t been able to put as much of a dent into the flak vest progress, because university assignments are a priority, but I got some more decorative topstitching practice in. The overall fit isn’t quite there yet, so I may have to abandon using Sionnach Studio’s Bo-Katan Version 2 pattern and draft my own using the duct tape dummy method. My body shape isn’t aligning well with size options, but it has given me good practice!

Armor

Had another armor fitting at the most recent armor party! The sizing is good for most prints, but adjustments need to be made on the shoulder armor and back plate (not pictured).

Flight Suit

Season 3 seems to have confirmed my fabric findings from the Season 2 screenshots and images from the Dented Helmet. I identified seven fabrics that make up the flak vest and flight suit and decided which fabrics I want to use based on the swatches that I ordered.

• Flight suit sleeves, collar, front shirt, inner-knee, knee, upper calves, & flak vest: : Cotton Chino Twill in Charcoal
• Mid back: Caye Urban UV Protective Compression Swimwear Tricot with Aloe Vera Microcapsules
• Crotch gusset, lower side, & upper side back: Sustainable Imported Cotton Spandex in Carbon
• Lower back, lower side back, & armpit gusset: Gray Stretch Cotton and Polyester Twill
• Side front/back pants & upper side shirt: Stretch Cotton Twill in Charcoal
• Buttocks: Charcoal Ultra-Stretch Twill 7.5 Ounce
• Under sleeve & calves: Dark Grey Ultra-Stretch Twill 7.5 Ounce

Katee Sackhoff’s recent Instagram post provided good insight into the neck seal and what is worn under the flight suit!

• Neck seal: Ribbed Spandex Fabric in Marine Navy

Boots

While the CRL for Brigade Level approval explicitly states that there is a small silver study on the outside of the boot that is visible in the triangular cutout of the gaiters, I would like to challenge this.

The stud on the boots seems to only [strongly] appear in S2E3: The Heiress. While the Clarks Orinoco Club boots appear to closely resemble the overall shape of the boot as seen on screen in Season 2, the boots in the Dented Helmet’s exhibition pictures ( from 2022) are completely different.

Differences between the Clarks Orinoco Club and the Dented Helmet boots include:

• Heel height
• Stud
• Sole shape
• Sole track pattern

I managed to identify the Dented Helmet boots as what I believe to be the Sorel Emelie Chelsea in Cattail. The sole track pattern matches the sand imprints in the Dented Helmet images, as well as the boots used in Season 3, and the outside of the boot within the cutout of the gaiters matches the Emelie style. The heel of the boots would need to be dyed and the logo scraped off the sole.

Would the Sorel Emelie Chelsea boots be acceptable for BRL approval?

[Geila Alo]

Good eye about the small silver stud on the outside of the boot! The BRL is a living document and is updated as new references are added. The Sorel Emelie Chelsea boots seems like a good alternate boot as long as the heel gets some black dye on the leather."

Keep up the good work!

[Rianne Royale]

Neck Seal

I officially have my first completed item: the neck seal! I drafted a pattern and made several mockups until I came up with something like what Katee Sackhoff posted on Instagram a while back.

I used ribbed spandex in marine navy and serged all seams. However, I left the edge raw.* The color in person is closer to the images of the serged seams. The ribs on the right side of the fabric are making the small images look strange. 

*The pattern I created says to cut 2 or cut 4 on some pieces. This is because I originally lined my mockups as the fabric was thin and needed stability. The fabric used in my final version is thicker and looked bulky when I lined it, so I removed the lining.

[Geila Alo]

You are doing a good job!

[Raquel91]

Rianne Royale,

Your attention to detail is exquisite, thank you for sharing your progress and reference pics explaining your process.
This WIP will be beneficial for everyone working on this build.

[Ru'Stor Rawr]

The photos don’t do it Justice, her focus and craftsmanship are truly a privilege to see 1st hand. I have no doubt this build will be the gold standard.