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[Arminius]

Thanks, although I think I'll stick to locally available materials. The putty I'm using is pretty cheap at only like a dollar a packet in walmart. A friend also recommended me a specific brand of filler I can find at any hardware store.

[Medieval Mandalorian]

Thanks, although I think I'll stick to locally available materials. The putty I'm using is pretty cheap at only like a dollar a packet in walmart. A friend also recommended me a specific brand of filler I can find at any hardware store.

Yeah, translating across borders isn't easy. Lots of times brand names change for the exact same product. In the US we had a car called the "Nova" which is good enough for a name in english but they had to change the name for sales in Spanish speaking markets. No va in Spanish means doesn't go...

[Straka Zulu]

I’m not sure if it stays the same outside the US, but what you need is Bondo Spot Filler.  Comes in a black and white tube, and is a brick red color putty.

[Arminius]

Yeah, translating across borders isn't easy. Lots of times brand names change for the exact same product. In the US we had a car called the "Nova" which is good enough for a name in english but they had to change the name for sales in Spanish speaking markets. No va in Spanish means doesn't go...

That's an urban legend, nova means the same in spanish as it does in english. I should know, I'm mexican.

I’m not sure if it stays the same outside the US, but what you need is Bondo Spot Filler.  Comes in a black and white tube, and is a brick red color putty.

Thanks, I already found it in AutoZone but I'll check local hardware stores to see if they have better prices. Also looking to start buying sintra. 

[Straka Zulu]

Check on Walmart or Amazon.  Autozone will always charge more.

[Medieval Mandalorian]

That's an urban legend, nova means the same in spanish as it does in english. I should know, I'm mexican.

Are yoou saying "var" isn't the verb for "to go" or "to move". If it ins't my high school Spanish teacher has some 'spalinin' to do.

[Arminius]

"Var" doesn't even exist in the spanish language. "Va" does mean "go" and "no va" does translates literally as "no go". But the word "nova" does refer to the astronomical event just like it does in english.

[Arminius]

Bump. Apologies for the double posting.

I am going to add a scope using PVC pipes, but I was wondering how you recommend I attach it to the barrel. The barrel has a small rail at the top I was hoping I could use, but I've deen people use some type of clamps too.

[EricL]

I’ve used things like “split ring pipe clamp” used in gas lines (mind you I haven’t tried to get anything approved yet XD). Another idea, depending how things line up, might be some kind of electrical conduit clamp. Either can be found at any home improvement store I’d bet, or online. Saw a video online of a fella making a Fett EE3 using Maclow clips upside down and mounting the scope to the flat bit.






Hope you get some inspiration from those! Nothing wrong with the rail idea either I’d guess.

[Arminius]

Thanks for the recommendation, I'll try to get some PVC pipe clamps next time I go to the hardware store.

I don't know whether to put something else on the barrel or leave it like that, I was thinking of using a bottle cap as a muzzle brake.

Benefits of studying engineering: The school has a workshop and they let you keep the scraps of others. And one man's trash is another man's treasure.

I was able to salvage these pieces of 5mm thick laminated wood and this 1/2 inch PVC pipe for the scope.



Right now I'm drawing the outline for a simple survival knife, but I'm open to suggestions for the rest of the wood.

[Arminius]

This was done with just a short piece of 1/2 " PVC pipe and two couplings. It's simple, but I like simple.




I think I'll glue the scope to the side of the barrel to avoide the hassle of mounting it on top. I'll use epoxic putty to conceal and round the joint between the two pieces of PVC.

[Arminius]

After almost a month and with the semester now I over I can return to work on this project. Today I finished filling in the larger holes on the sides of the body. I used epoxic putty to seal them and then sanded with 200 and 400 grade water sandpaper until the surface was as smooth as possible.





I abandoned the electronics idea and am still looking for something to close the bottom hole of the block, but other than that I am ready to reassemble and start sealing cracks and screw holes. I didn't find bondo or anything similar, but I did find a Metylan multi-purpose filler that I'll try.

[Fenn Beviin]

This is a really good blaster base!

Scope layout looks good so far. I would add some sort of greeb to it like a knob or some other technical looking bit to just spice it up some. What are your next steps?

[Arminius]

Thanks for the advice Fenn. I was thinking I'd assemble and seal all the holes for now while I figure out what to do with the scope. I just noticed the barrel and some of the sides are not closing properly so I'll have to fix that too. I also have to paint the trigger but I think I'll assemble first and then paint everything as a single piece.





Trigger and power pack openings. I'll close the later using a piece of the scrap wood I got and then seal the corners using more epoxy

Barrel where the two plastic pieces meet not closing properly.



Same place after I apply pressure and both pieces fit together.

Tragedy also struck as the knife I was making broke when I was trying to cut down the edges. 



Fortunately I managed to make a smaller knife inspired by the Finnish puukko, an axehead, and a bisento for a polearm, though the blade is shorter than the ones seen in TLJ. I added general-purpose filler to the edges of the first two and coated the latter with it. I'm a little worried though, since it appears to be more like a plaster than a regular filler.

[Fenn Beviin]

It would probably be easier to close to gap of the power pack opening with some PVC foam board/sintra. It would be way easier to sand that down while also cutting down on the overall weight.

For the barrel section, I would just super glue that and then painters tape it tight so it glues together.