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[Zophar Ptay]

Filled all the gaps and cleaned up the spots that needed cleaning on the right gaunt, then sprayed it metallic "satin nickel", then flat black.   I think the gaunts will be one of the few heavily weathered spots on the kit.  They'll be matte black with metallic silver showing underneath worn edges.  Seems fitting....Waiting for the black to dry and I'll get on the weathering tomorrow.  LED parts haven't come in yet so no electronics for the time being, but they'll be wearable.

A shot of round two with the filler on the left gaunt.  The horizontal line you can see a nice, filled, flush section from round one.



==Edit ==

Meh, the right gaunt's weathering didn't come out at all how I wanted it to.   Sprayed silver and starting over.   m ay just go with Jango weathering on that too.,,,

[Serim Merec]

Woohoo! Much progress! Keep it up and you'll be the go-to bondo guy in the clan!

[Zophar Ptay]

While waiting for the putty to cure, I'm trying to decide what I want showing on the "display" on my gaunt.   


Current concept:  a height map of the surface of Titan and some not-so-random Mando'a script.

[Zophar Ptay]

started weathering the shoulders




== Update ==

Weathered Shoulder


Weathered Chest


Weathered Right Gauntlet

[Zophar Ptay]

Over-shoulder strapping ready to go.   I didn't want to mess with trying to line up where I attached the bolts on the armour with the holes in the straps so I used JB Weld.   I made a block and pressed the bolts into it, let it cure fully, then unscrewed the bolts leaving a threaded two-bolt "nut" with perfectly spaced holes.

[Dresdon Acacin]

Stainless Steel THE brand for THE win!
(all the fasteners on my mk5 are THE  8) )

btw, did you just put jb onto the bolts threads or did you put jb onto nuts that were on the bolts?

[Zophar Ptay]

First I tries it with acorn nuts but it didn't hold well.  This run is directly on the threading of the bolt, cured then removed the bolt.

[Dresdon Acacin]

I would use a couple normal stainless nuts stacked together and then put the jb over them....but thats just me...

[Zophar Ptay]

I figured the acorn nut had more surface area and couldn't foul the threads but it didn't bind well.  This method worked like a charm

[Kraton Jax]

Wow vod! Beautiful work as usual! I like the gaunt display!!

[AGConstrux]

Trimmed the visor and internal padding tonight.  A picture directly under a 100W light bulb:



and a selfie with the flash directly on the visor:



No seeing through the visor from the outside but is the foam weather stripping I used for mounting it going to fly?

I would try a clear epoxy over that weatherseal foam...it'll take some time and effort to maneuver the bends and depths, but it'll be worth it is the end of actually being approved by the app team.

[Dresdon Acacin]

Yes what Adenn said, you could built up a flat area via epoxy putty for the visor to rest on and it would probably make the differance between Approval and Rejection...

[AGConstrux]

Yes what Adenn said, you could built up a flat area via epoxy putty for the visor to rest on and it would probably make the differance between Approval and Rejection...

Either that, or, since your mask area is pretty angular, you could try your hand at creating angular points in the visor (IE: cutting up a spare visor piece and piecing your visor together, one section at a time) using said clear epoxy adhesive (5 minute quick drying works best)

[Zophar Ptay]

I would try a clear epoxy over that weatherseal foam...it'll take some time and effort to maneuver the bends and depths, but it'll be worth it is the end of actually being approved by the app team.

oh yeah.   I don't intend to apply in this state, I just needed to get the shape down before permanently mounting it.  The white 2-sided mounting tape will absolutely be gone.   I was thinking of mounting a few bolts into the bucket at the stress points and bolting the visor in so I can replace it as desired.  I was also thinking of hitting it with a quick run under a heat gun while taped in shape to hopefully give it a chance to form a bit to reduce the stress at certain points where it is being bent.  Once formed I might hit the visible edges of the foam with something like spot putty or epoxy so it has a hard smooth face, but that will add a LOT of extra work trying to work that flush into the existing bucket, a full repaint, etc...

[AGConstrux]

oh yeah.   I don't intend to apply in this state, I just needed to get the shape down before permanently mounting it.  The white 2-sided mounting tape will absolutely be gone.   I was thinking of mounting a few bolts into the bucket at the stress points and bolting the visor in so I can replace it as desired.  I was also thinking of hitting it with a quick run under a heat gun while taped in shape to hopefully give it a chance to form a bit to reduce the stress at certain points where it is being bent.  Once formed I might hit the visible edges of the foam with something like spot putty or epoxy so it has a hard smooth face, but that will add a LOT of extra work trying to work that flush into the existing bucket, a full repaint, etc...

Be careful using the heat gun...lowest setting always...is it welding shield you are using? If so, I would recommend trying your hand at making the bends with a clear shield (harbor freight has them for usually under $10), creating the shape you need with that, and then using that as a mold for remaking the tinted visor, via cutting and epoxying into place with all the proper bends planned out via the clear visor <-----so much easier to explain in person...