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[Ghostwalker]

Okay my Idea for the abs.. you already have the basic shape done in plastic right?

If you just need to sculpt the ab details you could do what whatshisname did from the UK and use self adhesive foam insulating strips to make temporary 3D borders on the base plastic, fill with bondo to desired height, power sand/ sculpt, scrape out the weatherstripping.

I swiped his technique when I made the grooves in my TOR bucket and it works like a charm.
I'd give him proper credit but I can only remember that fantastic cold cast kit and not his name.

[Zophar Ptay]

Talos Kot.  His kit was one of the big inspirations to start on mine.  That is the technique i will be using to sculpt the raised parts of my fuller, but the abs will need to raise around an inch iin some areas.

I think for the time being, i will see what 2-D abs look like once the chest is glasses and finished.  It may not look as awkward as i think with the two heights

[Ghostwalker]

That's the bunny... err Mando!

an inch huh? could try using scrap plastic to make the boundaries and fill them with expanding foam, let harden, remove plastic and sculpt to rough shape then use glazing putty to finish.
Or use water putty to fill and raise, dirt cheap, non-toxic and cleans off stuff with water. Sands a bit easier than bondo too.

[ConDar Ward]

For a good base for the guantlet screen, you could do like me...



yup-exterior 120V plug socket cover. The kind that has the lil door on it.I am going to put buttons in the part that has the sanded black palstic that now looks medium grey, in the center of the lower half...that is like a "keyboard: area of it, likely square normaly closed off-on click/push buttons. Hopefully I can find some that light up...

Those Rock ! !   Nice Job ....  8)

[Zophar Ptay]

an inch huh? could try using scrap plastic to make the boundaries and fill them with expanding foam, let harden, remove plastic and sculpt to rough shape then use glazing putty to finish.

Hmm... Not quite like that, but you gave me am idea that is just crazy enough to work...  I'll have to mull it over but i think three base idea is valid...  I'll get back to you on threat.  I should finish the second solder tonight or tomorrow, weather and energy permitting, and I'll get on testing the new idea next

[Dresdon Acacin]

What-you no like my gauntlet ideas? 

[Zophar Ptay]

What-you no like my gauntlet ideas? 

they look good, and the door idea was brilliant, but the gaunts themselves are xbox HUEG and not at all in keeping with the concept I have.  I may steal the exterior outlet box idea and take it a different route though. 

[Dresdon Acacin]

were the shab do you see an xbox on that thing? lol

[Zophar Ptay]

kids these days

know your memes, son *wink*

[Ghostwalker]

not exactly a meme but yes the original xbox was a monster.

I like the gauntlets and I plan on stealing the idea you had with the exterior cover, I foresee a number of applications for that. I also need to work up 4 gauntlets so yeah 

I am eagerly awaiting your latest idea on the ab situation.

[Zophar Ptay]

sure it is.  Meme was a word long before it meant a picture with an unrelated mildly witty caption. 


back on topic, as tenuous as the topic is these days:

((
For the abs what I am thinking is taking your idea of the expanding foam but changing it up a bit.   i am thinking I'll sculpt the height and rough shape with that stuff, cover it in aluminum foil  (which resin won't stick to), and use that as a plug essentially.  Lay glass over the foil, then take/cut the foam out and I'll end up with a hollow fiberglass shell rather than a solid piece.

[Dresdon Acacin]

seems legit...

[Ghostwalker]

That could work! from experience: cling wrap and scotch tape also do not bond with FG resin

[Zophar Ptay]

I've never tried to actually carve/shape that stuff, so it may or may not work, but we'll see.

[Dresdon Acacin]

You could glue together (hot glue) some of the pink insolation foam board and sculpt it with sandpaper and a gyprock rasp. Made a set of Boot armour templates like that once. You just have to avoid getting the resin on it or it will likely melt.

[Ghostwalker]

I've never tried to actually carve/shape that stuff, so it may or may not work, but we'll see.

expanding foam is easily sculpted with a carpet / box cutter.
If you extend the blade far out it will bend a good bit without snapping.
Work with a new, sharp one and you'll have fun with it.
Acetone should clean any uncured expanding foam off stuff, but you'll need to get it fastish before it sets.

[Zophar Ptay]

Went shopping for soft parts today and found a flight suit that i liked.  A nice grey one from Mark's Work Wearhouse for $50 but they were out of my size.   They'll order it in and i should have it come Monday.  It isn't on their website as far as I can tell, but a pair of coveralls is a pair of coveralls.  The boots I found I will need to get pre-approval on before I buy them, but they are pretty kick-shebs:
 
details 

Naturally I'd strip the sewn-on branding on the tongue.  Maybe have to dye the white stitching on the soles also?  the boots are steel toe and the flap is a steel plate to protect the top of the foot also.  there is no other visible branding as far as I can tell.  Assuming my shin plates cover the only visible row of lacing, and the branding label was removed, would these beasts pass muster?

[Serim Merec]

Well they seem alright    And if the top lace proves to be a problem (asuming the shin doesn't cover it) you could always do small boot spats  8) 

[Ghostwalker]

I'm reasonably certain they'll pass with the logo removed.
I don't think you have to dye the stitching but it couldn't hurt if you aren't planning on using white for an accent color.

[Zophar Ptay]

I'm reasonably certain they'll pass with the logo removed.
I don't think you have to dye the stitching but it couldn't hurt if you aren't planning on using white for an accent color.

no, I think the closest will be the grey flight suit so i may try to dye then grey.


where I left off tonight:



tomorrow I'll throw a thin skin of resin over the bondo to protect it and start with the primer/sand/primer/sand/primer/sand process.   the one that is currently bronze will be taken down to primer again as well so i can take care of some of those pinholes that are bugging me.  They look pretty good in normal light, but I couldn't get a  picture of them under these spotlights without the surface looking horribly rough so it's back to the finer grits with a more detailed eye.

also, I am looking into an airbrush setup so I can just have my accent colors custom mixed to match what is in my head instead of relying on hoping I can find some rattle can that are close.

[Ghostwalker]

well try to enamel the eyelets though so they don't stand out.
It'll be a constant maintenance kinda thing as the paint will wear off alot but I expect it'll make the difference to the AppTeam.

Those shoulders are SLICK my man! top notch work!
Nice to see another Merc who is addicted to sanding and filling.
Too many peeps slap paint on way too early.

I take my bondo to oh about 220g dry then 400/800 wet sand until the water flows without interruption.
Then move on to the sponges for a bit of polishing, prime, wet sand, prime, wet sand until my matt black primer appears gloss. I am utterly addicted to creating a surface so smooth it's cold and feels like polished marble.

craftsmanship gets me excited. people who put that amount of effort into single pieces turn out amazing stuff. *points to seugtal's thread* she took forever but man it was worth every minute of wait.

Oh and yeah I'd love an airbrush/'presser setup myself but as I have no garage I'm not investing in it.. yet.
If I'm painting outside in the wind, with dust and pollen uncontrollable there is no point trying to lay a perfect paint job on.

[Zophar Ptay]

I took the one i painted down to 600 but it still looks spotty to me.  Maybe it is due to the metallic paint, not sure.  I'm sure it would pass, but it would bug me. 

[Ghostwalker]

do some 800 wet passes with a matt primer type color... if it's still spotty then break out the glazing putty, if it isn't it might be the paint you used.

[Zophar Ptay]

 I picked up an assortment from a car parts shop, ranges from 800-1200.  I'll hit it up when I get time.  I want to get some work done on the torso and i still have to restart the helmet again, so plenty to do yet.

[Ghostwalker]

  that's where I source my stuff too!

I can get behind the wisdom in taking a step back from something to gain perspective.

Don't keep us in too much suspense on the torso / bucket!