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Attachments How to Magnet-mount your RF Stalk (or whatever you are using) (PIC HEAVY!!!)

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Jaa'det Otxoa


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So it was requested that I break this off into it's own thread!  ;D

In this tutorial I'll show you the method I used to mount my customer RF/Comm unit as well as an alternate standard RF stalk (with customized upper earpiece) from my J2p!  ;D

Custom RF/Comm unit:
So I was test fitting where I wanted the RF/Comm unit to sit on the right side earpiece and realized that the "emitters" I added were not allowing the unit to sit flush against the side of the bucket because they would hit the edge of shade visor as well as the fact that the side of the upper portion of the right-side earpiece is not perfectly flat... ???
So my solution was to create a backer/mounting plate for the RF/Comm unit, coincidentally, it will also serve as a "holder" for these rare earth magnets! ;D
I got these on Ebay from China for super cheap!  ;D

20 - 8 x 1.5 mm rare earth magnets!

And here's most of the process... (Sorry, I forgot do take pictures of a few steps :-[ But there is more detailed pics in the Standard RF mounting section! ;))

1. I created a template of the right-side earpiece of the bucket behind the visor and above the lower earpiece, then determined where I wanted the RF/Comm unit to sit on the template and traced it out (Sorry, no pics)

2. Next I copied this template over to a scrap piece of flattened PVC (thin wall, about 2-3 mm thick, same material as the visor) and test fit it on the side of the buy'ce (Note that I removed the upper ball mount for the original RF):


3. Now I heated up the plate with my trusty heat gun (well almost, the trigger switch broke on me, need to grab a replacement this weekend) and molded it to the side of the upper earpiece, here you can see the curve it took to make it sit flush:


4. I needed to keep access to the battery door on the RF/Comm unit so here's what I did (sorry forgot pics of the process :rolleyes:, see the RF section!):
- Grab the paper template used to cut out the plate, remove the battery door from the unit and lay the template where it aligns correctly and tape it down.
- Trace the edge of the opening with my finger (this gave me a pretty good idea of where the opening was supposed to end up on the plate)
- Use a razor to open the area to be removed using straight lines & X's to the corners of the opening then pushed the battery door back into place to get a more

accurate outline
- Remove the battery door and untape the template from the unit then tape it to the PVC plate and trace the opening made for the battery door to the PVC.
- Next, place the battery door in the transferred outline and trace the outside edge of the door, this will give you a more accurate shape for the opening, with a small allowance in size, as well as allowing you to transfer the center point for the screw hole "ears"
- Next cut the opening out (I used a combination of a small drill bit (for the corners and center points), the cutting wheel, a 12 notch step bit (for the ears) and a small, flat jeweler's file)
...And here is the result with the battery door fit into the opening:


5. Time to figure out where the magnets will fit! :-\ Now that I have the cut-out on the plate I can see where I can place my magnets, trace the outline onto the template then mark the center points for pilot holes:


6. Once I have the pilot holes drilled (used a 1/8" bit) I taped the plate to the side of the bucket and transferred the holes to the bucket by drilling through the plate and into the bucket (no pics)

7. Next I used my step bit to drill out the holes in the plate until the magnets just fit, then I matched the diameter of the magnets to a drill bit (23/64") and then made a depth stop on the drill bit by building up electrical tape about 2 mm back from the tip of the bit:


Now, using the pilot holes I drilled into the side of the earpiece to just the depth of the stop, this creates a divot in the middle for the glue to sit with the magnet sitting at the surface.

8. Now to glue everything together... ??? (Remember use the epoxy in a well-ventilated area! :P)
- I started off put a piece of tape on the face of the plate that will contact the bucket that will pretty much cover the entire plate (I used painters tape since it has a coating on it that will let it release the epoxy better)
- I then placed the magnets in the plate (take note of the polarity so you can make sure the magnets placed in the earpiece match)
- Next I mixed up some 5-minute epoxy and glued the set of magnets in the earpiece first then set the plate in place on top (this allowed the magnets to contact perfectly ;))
- Now I coated the back openings for the magnets in the plate with epoxy and then set the battery door in the opening to align the RF/Comm device properly (be careful not to glue the battery door to the plate or the device)
Here are some shots showing the tape separating the device from the earpiece while drying and the final positioning:


And, voila, after drying for the rest of the night here is what the pieces look like!


Now to prime, paint and weather this piece up!   ;D

Now on to the "Standard RF stalk" mounting...

1. I created a template of the right-side earpiece of the bucket behind the visor and above the lower earpiece by placing a piece of scrap paper on the area and tracing/folding along the perimeter:


2. I then put alignment marks to determine where I wanted the base of RF stalk (upper earpiece) to sit on the template and traced it out:




3. Next cut out the template and place on the side of the bucket, since the magnets are already mounted here I used another set of magnets to trace out the positioning of the existing magnets:


4. Next, on another piece of scrap paper I traced out the perimeter of the upper earcap:


5. Now I laid the alignment template over the upper earcap template after drawing in the center points for all magnet positions:


6. Then traced the edge and transferred the centerpoints using the tip of a fine point phillips screwdriver and redrew the centerpoints on the Upper earcap template:


7. Next I copied this template over to a scrap piece of flattened PVC (thin wall, about 2-3 mm thick PVC drain/sewer pipe) and cut it out using my Dremel tool:


8. Next I used tape to make the alignment border using the first alignment template (since the visor was used when making the original alignment template it was left in place for this step):


9. Now I heated up the plate with my trusty heat gun and molded it to the side of the upper earpiece, using the alignment guides I just created to make it sit flush:


10. Here you can see that the mounting plate is slightly larger than the matching edge of the upper earcap, this was done on purpose! ;)
Here's why... when you curve the plate from flat to curved it "shrinks" across the curve because you are bringing the center up! :P


11. Now just trim down the edges so that they sit flush (or you can wait until the pieces are glued together, your choice ;D)


12. Time to mount the magnets! :-\ Since I have the center points for the magnet and RF stalk pivot already marked on the template the best thing is to "punch" the marks for the center points for pilot holes, I did this using a small nail and a hammer:


13. Now just drill pilot holes in the plate with a 1/8" bit using the punch divots as a guide:


14. Next I used my step bit to drill out the holes in the plate until the magnets just fit, trying to leave a small ridge to keep the magnet from pushing all the way through the plate
(if you drill all the way through, don't worry, the epoxy will keep it in place! :P depending on the thickness of your magnets you may need to drill all the way through!)
- Here's the step bit I used (bough it here at Harbor Freight ;)):


- And the hole with the ridge:


- And with the magnet in place from the mounting face:


15. Now to glue everything together... ??? (Remember use the epoxy in a well-ventilated area! :P)
- I started off by dropping the magnets in the holes that I didn't drill through then I put a piece of 1 1/2" painters tape on the face of the plate that will contact the bucket that will pretty much cover the entire plate
(I used painters tape since it has a coating on it that will let it release the epoxy better; take note of the polarity so you can make sure the magnets placed in the earpiece match)
- I then placed the remaining magnets in the plate from the back (again, take note of the polarity ???)

- Next I set the plate in place on top of the magnets in the bucket (this allowed the magnets to contact perfectly ;))

- Now I coated the back openings for the magnets in the plate with epoxy allowing the epoxy's meniscus to dome slightly:


16. After drying for the rest of the night I sanded down the bead of epoxy flush with the plate so that it fits flush with the base of the upper earcap:


17. Now I epoxied the base plate with the magnets to the upper earcap and clamped with a 2" spring clamp:


18. Once dried, the excess epoxy/flash is sanded smooth (the epoxy works as a filler so, in my case, no extra filler is needed!):


19. Next I used the same drill bit from earlier with the depth stop and moved the stop to the very tip and drilled a countersink hole for the retaining screw (drywall screw cut down to about 3/8" [8 mm]) for the RF stalk pivot:


20. And here it is stuck to the buy'ce!


One more note: when you are using magnets for your RF (non-motorized) be sure that they are strong enough so that the RF doesn't come flying off if it gets hit! :o
My RF/Comm device is a static piece so the 8x1.5mm magnets work great... but the RF stalk actually needed a stronger 8x3mm magnet to keep it on better! ???
Also, this method can be easily adapted to molded parts as well, since the basic procedure is the same!  ;D

Hope this helps all my vode out there trying to figure out an easy way to magnetically mount their RF! ;)

« Last Edit: Jan 21, 2018, 03:48 PM by Hik'aari Kelborn » Logged
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klown5ive


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Wow, nice work vod. That came out amazingly.

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