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[ashoggoth]

Ill see if I can troubleshoot it when I get home. Yay for working odd hours. Might have to wait for Saturday when I get some parts myself and try it out.

EDIT: try flipping the NPNs around. They might be in backwards? I dunno it's the first thing that came to mind.

[Kebii'tra Verda]

I did a google search on them to see what their pin configuration was. It's virtually the same as the PNPs. If you're looking at the flat side with the prongs downward, pin 1 is on the left, then 2 then 3. I checked several sources (including the packaging) just to be sure I had them seated correctly.

I also went into this soldering everything to the board first. What I may do next month is gather all the pieces I need for a second try and purchase a large test board to temporarily set all components and test before committing to a board.

But any help you are willing to give is accepted. Thanks!

daVID.

[Dresdon Acacin]

Might as well set that board aside to repair once you've got it figured out.

[Mandalore the Uniter]

Just now finding this post.

Let me first suggest getting yourself a test breadboard at Radioshack.  You can save yourself a lot of time by building this on a test board (where the components are removable) and then moving it to your PCB.

Also, are you soldering these connections together or are you using an etched board?

[Kebii'tra Verda]

I've got a test board now, but the local RS is being stupid with their stock. Last time I went in there, they didn't even know what I was asking for. Even after I showed them on their own website what I was looking for, the guy was clueless. Turns out , my local store, for some unknown reason, has stopped selling the small project things like this. *smh

But, this has kind of taken a back seat right now while I get other projects worked out. I'll still get this done eventually, though. 

As for using a board, what you see in the first post is what I did so far that didn't work. I used a 276-168B project board for the first try with with a 276-159A board for the pots.

Looks like I'll be hitting the Bay for my parts again - and waiting 40 forevers for them to come in. 

David.

[Thaxos]

Try Mouser or DigiKey instead of the Bay... Much better for electronic components.

[Kebii'tra Verda]

Try Mouser or DigiKey instead of the Bay... Much better for electronic components.

Thanks. I will!

David.

[Conner Adenn]

Since no one asked, and I really wanna know.. Where is this going in your armor? Looks like a cool idea 
I get a lot of parts from Tayda(taydaelectronics.com), pretty much the same product as Mouser/Digikey (and I do use both of those for other things), but cheaper. They don't have a HUGE selection like Mouser/DK, but if you plan on spitting out a lot boards where you need resistors and caps out the wazoo, $0.01 per resistor sounds a lot better than $0.10 per resistor!
Shipping isn't too bad either, I think the longest I've waited was 10 days, and since this stuff is coming from Taiwan, that's not too bad at all, I think

[Kebii'tra Verda]

My plan was to add it to the center diamond of my pilot kit. If I can get this to work like I want, it will be like a life meter in the center of my chest.

David.

[Mandalore the Uniter]

David, have you checked out Sparkfun.com?  They may have a project circuit that does something similar to what you want.

https://www.sparkfun.com/

[Dresdon Acacin]

Uhm..a thought suddenly occured....

Exactly what do you want the LEDs to do?

If you want them like a chasing light bar, or like a stereo pitch display where it has the lights that vary by the sound?
I probbaly already have a schematic with a 4017 decade IC that may work for what you want to do...

[Kebii'tra Verda]

Uhm..a thought suddenly occured....

Exactly what do you want the LEDs to do?

If you want them like a chasing light bar, or like a stereo pitch display where it has the lights that vary by the sound?
I probbaly already have a schematic with a 4017 decade IC that may work for what you want to do...

According to the description of the system, the chip makes each LED come on separately in sequence, meaning 1 goes off before 2 comes on and on up. The addition of the SCRs is supposed to make 1 stay on until 2-10 have lit, then they all go off and repeat the sequence.


By all means! Please send the other diagram! I'd love to see it. Thanks!

David.

[Dresdon Acacin]

I think I got 'dis as the hip youngsters say...