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 CRLs for Jaster Mereel

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CRLs for Jaster Mereel
« on: Feb 21, 2014, 05:23 PM »
Jaster CRL

  • Jumpsuit
    • Must be dark grey in color.
    • Must be double sleeved with long inner sleeves going under the forearm gauntlets and the shorter outer sleeves stopping just above the elbow. The seams of both sleeves should run in a frontal line from the shoulder, down the bicep and forearm.
    • A neck seal must be worn over the collar to cover the neck area under the helmet
    • The pants can be tighter at the shins/ankles to allow a snug fit of the shin armor without drooping over the boot
    • Recommended button holes on either side of knees and shins to insert elastic bands for a tighter fit
    • Velcro or snaps are recommended for armor attachment
  • Boots:
    • Must be black or gray leather or similar with a work boot or hiking sole.
    • Snaps or Velcro on both side of heel upper to accept the boot armor is suggested and accurate.
  • Vest:
    • Must be a darker gray material and color.
    • Neck, shoulder and arm opening can have piping on the seam.
    • Shoulders should not flare outwards and look like wings.
    • Recommended use of Velcro or snaps to attach vest armor.
  • Ammo Pouch Belt:
    • The under belt must be leather or similar materials and brown in color and approximately 2.5-3 inches wide.
    • The over belt is 1.5-2 inches wide and is located in the middle of the under belt.
    • The over belt closes at the front similar to a normal belt, with a gap of 3-4 inches from edge to edge of the under belt
    • Should include eight equally sized pouches approximately 2.5 inches wide and 4.5 inches tall attached to the over belt
  • Gauntlets
    • Gauntlets are simplified tube style the same color as all other armor components.
    • Each gauntlet will have a simplified "scope" on the "top" which lines up with the top over the hand.
    • Each gauntlet will also have a "flamethrower" on the out side at 90 degrees from the scope. This will be black in color and be 1"x1" around and go from the top to bottom of the guantlet. The end closest to the hand will be cut at a 45 degree angle inwards with the shorter portion closest touching the gauntlet. The "flamethrower does not have a nozzles but should have a hole recessed into it for effect. There are NO hoses from the "flamethrowers"
  • Gloves
    • Gloves will be black or dark gray in color.
  • Holsters:
    • Must be leather or similar materials and brown in color.
    • Straps are approximately 1 inch wide and fastened underneath the rear of girth belt and through an angled loop on front, which sits on the cod piece armor via two brass D ringsand a leather strip, which inserts into the armor loop. Straps are adjustable with 1/4 inch brass ball studs. Six studs in total are used. Two for rear straps, two for front straps and two more for leg straps.
    • The shape of the holster should match the general shape of the blasters. The opening at the top is angled and slightly flared. The bottoms are tapered so that the blasters fit snugly.
    • Holsters can be either similar to Jango or can be more of a military style, dependent on the reference pic used.
  • Armor:
    • Generally the armor is made from materials such as fiberglass or sintra.
    • The armor should have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth. This is harder to accomplish with sintra, which is why fiberglass has become more popular among Mandalorian costumers.
    • All armor should be dark/gun metal grey in color and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage
    • Jaster (in issue#2) has a yellow diamond which extends to the middle of the breast plates.
  • Helmet:
    • Must have a full one piece black "T" visor. In some of the reference material it appears that Jaster wears a red visor, but upon further inspection you'll find that it is a reflection of blaster fire.
    • The " head band" and “T” area should be a dark red color
    • The "outer & inner mandibles" and top should be the same grey as the armour
    • There can be keyhole slots at the back of the helmet or if you have keyhole slots in the rear of helmet they must be cut out clean and backed with mesh underneath. For added accuracy to the comic references, keyhole slots can be completely eliminated.
    • The grey cheeks should be rounded at the top
    • The ear cap on the left should be rectangular from the “headband” from the base and should be recessed similar to the reference materials-The right ear cap has a recessed shingled effect with a square or simplified upper ear cap.
    • The range finder can be a black Jango or Boba style with a metal or grey stalk
    • The helmet should be weathered.
  • Vest Armor:
    • The vest armour is similar to Jango.
    • Jaster (in issue #2) has a yellow diamond which extends to the middle of the breast plates -Shoulder armor pieces are slightly tombstone in shape with a rounded top and a sloping slides. Shoulders are to be a darker red in color and have a black skull emblem on a yellow or gold crest as pictured in the reference material. Shoulders should also be weathered with damage to the emblems. Boba style Bantha skulls or Mythosaur skulls are not acceptable, as they are highly inaccurate.
    • Center diamond plate between chest plates must have an indented vertical rectangle as shown in visual references.
  • Leg armor:
    • Cod piece should be dimensional and curve under groin area as shown in visual references. There can be a band that connects the underside of cod piece to the rear of belt.
    • Thigh armor should be curved to fit snugly over thighs.
    • Knee armor should be dimensional and sturdy. Outside section must have the rocket dart assembly with two rocket darts similar to Boba or Jango. For added accuracy to the comic references, double sets of knee darts on both the outer and inner portion of the knees will be acceptable. If it is uncomfortable and hampers your ability to walk, the double darts are not necessary.
    • Shin armor should fit snugly over shin and sit just above the boot armor and not fall loosely over the boot.
    • Boot armor should have a good curvature and square off at ankles where an attached elastic band is fitted with a small black leather square with a snap or Velcro to attach to boot heels on both sides.
    • It is highly recommended to attach knee and shin armor to legs via velcroed elastic bands inserted through small button holes to wrap around legs underneath for a secured fit.
  • Weapons:
    • Costumers must have at least one of the weapons featured in the comic reference material. Boba styled blasters are not acceptable.
    • 1 Westar 34 (aka Jango blaster) is acceptable for the left hand side arm.
    • The right hand sidearm is to have a scope on top with a 45 degree angled flash hider on the end of the barrel. The weapon is to be of a darker metallic gray in color with a grooved barrel behind the pistol grip.
    • Larger weapons are acceptable for Jaster Mereel as well. The larger rifle is to be in similar build to a M-16 with a larger barrel and a scope mounted on top. A bayonet is attached to the underside of the barrel.

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Re: CRLs for Jaster Mereel
« Reply #1 on: Mar 05, 2015, 05:48 PM »
Can anyone on the APP team clarify on the gauntlet flamethrowers, if you mean

LIKE THIS

The section on gauntlets says the shorter end goes towawrds the gauntlet, do you mean the piece slopes towards the gauntlet?



Secondly, in several scenes with Jaster it looks like the top of his gauntlets with the 'half scopes' are on an added layer of material on the top of the gauntlet-should I just trim the 'half scopes' enough to be sunk quarter or third of their height and attach then directly to the gauntlet shells or put them on another layer?
Can I use this extruded aluminum tube with the ridges or should it be flat? There are visual references with both types seen in the comics, if preferred I can also just do outright smooth, plain tubes.



also for fasteners, can the gauntlet hinges be affixed with 3/16" poprivets (3 along the sides of each shell , so 12 total) or would I  have to do countersunk machine screws with the heads filled in?

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