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 Trash can armor question

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Trash can armor question
« on: Apr 02, 2014, 11:23 AM »
I am researching into making my own armor.I have the templates and read up on the other materials ppl have used.I had thought using a trash can simply for the pre-curved shape of the  material.Which would make it easy on me in saving on time while having to bend the material.
My concern of using a trash can armor is the thickness.I think a single piece from a trash can would be to thin.My thought to get around this to double up on the armor.To do this I would cut two pieces of the same shape and attach them with a epoxy mix.Doing this would allow me to be able to bond fasteners to the bottom piece to attach  the vest I make.
Is a trash thick enough without having to double it up?Is this a good plan?

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TI-68712 Alabama Garrison
Re: Trash can armor question
« Reply #1 on: Apr 02, 2014, 07:25 PM »
In short, yes! There are some people on here with sheet metal armor, and plastic tote bin armor. If you really want depth there are two ways, either double up, as you said, or roll the edges to make it look thicker! One thing about trash cans, if you get the industrial ones made for chemicals, most paint wont stick, so get the garden variety at Walmart.

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stinkylinkz


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Re: Trash can armor question
« Reply #2 on: Apr 03, 2014, 08:35 AM »
Curved edges is the best way I can think of, but harder than doubling up. The lip you get from rolling the edges looks really good in my opinion.

Also, as far as trash can armor goes, the pre-bent shape isn't really as important as I originally thought it would be. The plastic is easy to shape with a $10 harbor freight heat gun.

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Re: Trash can armor question
« Reply #3 on: Apr 03, 2014, 11:45 PM »
Can you give me some pointers on rolling the edges?I know how to roll the edges on metal but I have never done that on a plastic piece of material.I am guessing you would heat up the edge and then shape it the edge with a form until I get the desired angle?

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stinkylinkz


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Re: Trash can armor question
« Reply #4 on: Apr 04, 2014, 06:37 AM »
Can you give me some pointers on rolling the edges?I know how to roll the edges on metal but I have never done that on a plastic piece of material.I am guessing you would heat up the edge and then shape it the edge with a form until I get the desired angle?

Nailed my method. I would just aim for a 'U' on the end. You may find more success with boiling water. It's always nice to try multiple methods. 

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Re: Trash can armor question
« Reply #5 on: Apr 04, 2014, 05:33 PM »
Make sure to shock it (ice bath) after you're done forming no matter the method of heating!

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Re: Trash can armor question
« Reply #6 on: Apr 07, 2014, 07:02 AM »
Make sure to shock it (ice bath) after you're done forming no matter the method of heating!

Can I ask why? I have never done this. Meant to try, but never have.

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Re: Trash can armor question
« Reply #7 on: Apr 07, 2014, 10:16 AM »
Can I ask why? I have never done this. Meant to try, but never have.
The rapid change of temperature on the piece(from hot to cold) locks the molecules of the plastic into place.If you let the plastic piece cool down naturally  the piece could try to reform itself back to its original shape
I have had to do this technique in repairing automotive bumpers and automotive interior pieces.I didnt use a ice bath I used a rag from  a ice bucket or a water hose.

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stinkylinkz


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Re: Trash can armor question
« Reply #8 on: Apr 07, 2014, 10:18 AM »
The rapid change of temperature on the piece(from hot to cold) locks the molecules of the plastic into place.If you let the plastic piece cool down naturally  the piece could try to reform itself back to its original shape
I have had to do this technique in repairing automotive bumpers and automotive interior pieces.I didnt use a ice bath I used a rag from  a ice bucket or a water hose.

Makes sense. Guess I'll get some ice from work in a pale next time I go to form armor. Or some rags in the freezer. I have seen the armor try to go back to it's original shape. But usually I just let it gradually cool, shape it some more, gradually cool, and find the final shape after several different bends.

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Re: Trash can armor question
« Reply #9 on: Apr 07, 2014, 12:54 PM »
Not a huge fan of using trash can plastic as most cans are made of plastics that like to resist spray paint.  Look into either buying sintra online or at a local sign store, it will be much easier to work with.

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stinkylinkz


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Re: Trash can armor question
« Reply #10 on: Apr 07, 2014, 01:17 PM »
Not a huge fan of using trash can plastic as most cans are made of plastics that like to resist spray paint.  Look into either buying sintra online or at a local sign store, it will be much easier to work with.

Does priming help at all? I'm using some plastic tubs and they took self etching primer like a champ. Even sanded pretty smooth.

Also, as far as sintra is concerned.

Closed Cell Expanded PVC Sheets or something like that is the generic name.

http://www.amazon.com/Sintra-Closed-Cell-Expanded-Sheet/dp/B00F0Q753O/ref=sr_1_36?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1396890982&sr=1-36&keywords=sintra+PVC+sheet

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Dar'manda


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Re: Trash can armor question
« Reply #11 on: Apr 07, 2014, 03:50 PM »
It's hit or miss.  Sometimes it seems like it's staying on and then when you tape off for designs and remove the tape it pulls all the way off to the plastic like it was never painted.  Other times, it stays painted for a week or so and then chips badly.  You have to keep in mind, trash cans are designed to resist staining so they stay looking clean.  They are also hard to shape with heat, as they are heat molded and have a high temperature threshold which means they really won't keep much of a shape very long.

In the long run, if you can't find sintra, even PVC pipe will do.  While it's heavier...it's readily available at home stores and is easy to flatten from a 5 inch pipe with a heat gun or an oven on low temp.  But your best bet is to call sign shops (or better, visit them) as I guarantee they use sintra/closed cell pvc and may even sell (or give you scraps) a sheet.  The sign shop my friend's dad worked at would ship a pallet of black sheets with a white sheet on top and bottom to keep the ones in the middle from scratching.  They would then throw away the scratched, dented, and slightly damaged white sheets in the dumpster.

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Re: Trash can armor question
« Reply #12 on: Apr 07, 2014, 09:01 PM »
trash can can work, priming paints, and any paint specified for plastic bonding will help. I dont think rolling the edges will be necessary, and personally i think itd be more trouble than its worth... BuT, if you can do it itd be pretty neat. Vhett Naast has been rocking trash can plates, and they're pretty top notch, so it can be done.
as for sintra... I dont understand the love of it. its nice and light, but after working with pvc, sintra molds at a lower temp and i wound up putting fingerprints into it...
pvc is very affordable, and there are a few different thicknesses you can get for very affordable prices.

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Re: Trash can armor question
« Reply #13 on: Apr 07, 2014, 09:54 PM »
My first armor plates where trash can and they painted ok but I couldn't get the bolts or snaps I was going to use to attach to my best to stay on strong enough. I then used pvc and it is cheap and easy to work with by using a hear gun and or stove. Plus it is already thick enough to feel like armor.

« Last Edit: Apr 08, 2014, 07:16 AM by bigbret50 » Logged
Re: Trash can armor question
« Reply #14 on: Apr 07, 2014, 10:20 PM »
One thing you might want to do is wash your plastic pieces in warm water with a detergent like Dawn.It will help in washing away any release agents the manufacturer used or any of the contaminants on the material.While washing you can even use a mild soft scuff pad to go ahead and sand the pieces.Wet sanding raw plastics doesn't leave a deep harsh scratch like dry sanding might do.So you wont have to fill the deep scratches with so much primer.
When I was doing automotive painting I would always wash down raw plastic parts before I would begin painting them.If you wipe them down with a solvent you might soften the plastic up enough to affect painting.
Just a tip I learned from many years of painting raw plastic pieces.

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Re: Trash can armor question
« Reply #15 on: Jun 06, 2014, 05:10 PM »
...  But your best bet is to call sign shops (or better, visit them) as I guarantee they use sintra/closed cell pvc and may even sell (or give you scraps) a sheet.  The sign shop my friend's dad worked at would ship a pallet of black sheets with a white sheet on top and bottom to keep the ones in the middle from scratching.  They would then throw away the scratched, dented, and slightly damaged white sheets in the dumpster.

This was the most helpful and invaluable information on Sintra I have yet seen. I read your post, drove to my nearest sign shop and would have left with a 4x8 sheet right then, but my car was too small. A quick vehicle swap later and the cost of a large lemonade I have certainly enough material for a full set of armor, including thigh and shin guards.

So thank you. And hopefully by replying other new builders will see this post and learn this great source too.

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