Jumpsuit
- Must be light blue-purple in color. (Red Kapp brand postal blue is ideal and gives off the famous light purple tinge.)
- Must be double sleeved with long inner sleeves going under the forearm guantlets and the shorter outer sleeves stopping just above the elbow. The seams of both sleeves should run in a frontal line from the shoulder, down the bicep and forearm.
- A neckseal must be worn over the collar to cover the neck area under the helmet.
- The pants can be tighter at the shins/ankles to allow a snug fit of the shin armor without drooping over the boot.
- Recommended button holes on either side of knees and shins to insert elastic bands for a tighter fit.
- Velcro or snaps are recommended for armor attachment.
Boots
- Must be black leather with the sole pattern to match as closely as possible to the movie costume.
- Most identifiable features include a high arch pattern on the inside of the sole, four profile “swoops” between the sole and leather upper which must be silver in color.
- Snaps on both side of heel upper to accept the boot armor is suggested and accurate.
- Film Accurate boots are Kenneth Cole Pit Crew. Similar boots allowed.
Vest
- Must be grayish leather or similar material and color. Refer to the Star Wars Attack of the Clones Visual Dictionary for reference. Reference CD also indicates light bluish tones for weathering. Black is not an accurate color representation of a movie accurate costume. A blueish vest is acceptable as some movie scenes depict the vest as such in certain lighting.
- Neck, shoulder and arm opening should have piping on the seam.
- Shoulders should not flare outwards and look like wings.
- Recommended use of Velcro or snaps to attach vest armor.
Belts
- Journeyman Protector Belt
- Must be leather or similar materials and brown in color.
- Must include 1/4 inch braided sections approximately 5 inches wide, depending on height of person. Typically 20 to 22 rows of braids constitutes the average size girth belt.
- Belt attaches in rear. Heavy duty velcro or lacing is recommended for durability.
- A vertical brown leather loop approximately three inches covers the rear overlapping belt seam for a quality finished, movie accurate look.
- Ammo Pouch Belt
- Must be leather or similar materials and brown in color and approximately 2.5 inches wide. The end of belt is tapered and overlaps the other end in rear velcro (or similar) attachment.
- Must include seven equally sized pouches approximately 2.5 inches wide and 4.5 inches tall attached to belt by loops.
- A separate vertical loop approximately 3/4 inches wide fits over the belt to the wearer’s left against the left most pouch. Refer to p. 41 of Visual Dictionary or reference CD.
- Attaches in rear over the braided belt and the vertical leather loop.
Holsters
- Must be leather or similar materials and brown in color.
- Straps are approximately 1 inch wide and fastened underneath the rear of girth belt and through an angled loop on front, which sits on the cod piece armor via two brass D ringsand a leather strip, which inserts into the armor loop. Straps are adjustable with 1/4 inch brass ball studs. Six studs in total are used. Two for rear straps, two for front straps and two more for leg straps.
- The shape of the holster should match the general shape of the blasters. The opening at the top is angled and slightly flared. The bottoms are tapered so that the blasters fit snugly.
Armor
- Generally the armor is made from materials such as fiberglass or sintra, though other materials have been used, especially with the gauntlets, which have also been made from styrene. The armor should have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth. This is harder to accomplish with sintra, which is why fiberglass has become more popular among Jango Fett costumers. All armor should be silver in color and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage. Silver Rub-n-Buff is a wax based material and is the most popular method for giving the armor it’s matallic appearance. It can be found in most craft stores.
Helmet
- Must have a full one piece “T” visor.
- The “outer mandibles/head band”, ear pieces, and rangefinder should be a medium blue color. The “inner mandibles” just above the silver cheeks should be a darker blue color. Both blues should match the visual references as closely as possible in similar lighting.
- Two 1/8 inch parallel strips run around the silver dome just above the blue band and stop on either side of the right earpiece attachment. Auto pinstriping works best.
- The keyhole slots in the rear of helmet must be cut out clean and backed with mesh underneath.
- The silver cheeks should be rounded at the top unlike the more tapered cheeks of Boba Fett.
- The helmet should be weathered to match visual references as closely as possible.
- Shoulder armor pieces should have eight points.
- Left chest armor must have two indented horizontal bars, the lower one to be wider and positioned as shown in visual references.
- Center diamond plate between chest plates must have an indented vertical rectangle as shown in visual references.
- Back plate should have to shoulder slots to allow Jetpack harness to fasten to torso underneath.
Vest Armor
- Shoulder armor pieces should have eight points.
- Left chest armor must have two indented horizontal bars, the lower one to be wider and positioned as shown in visual references.
- Center diamond plate between chest plates must have an indented vertical rectangle as shown in visual references.
- Back plate should have to shoulder slots to allow Jetpack harness to fasten to torso underneath.
Leg Armor
- Cod piece should be dimensional and curve under groin area as shown in visual references. There is no band that connects the underside of cod piece to the rear of belt.
- Thigh armor should be curved to fit snugly over thighs.
- Knee armor should be dimensional and sturdy. Inner section must have the upside down “F” pattern. Outside section must have the rocket dart assembly with two rocket darts as shown in visual references.
- Shin armor should fit snugly over shin and sit just above the boot armor and not fall loosely over the boot.
- Boot armor should have a good curvature and square off at ankles where an attached elastic band is fitted with a small black leather square with a snap to attach to boot heels on both sides.
- It is highly recommended to attach knee and shin armor to legs via velcroed elastic bands inserted through small button holes to wrap around legs underneath for a secured fit.
Gauntlets
- The gauntlets should be hinged on the inside of the forearm and close on the outside with velcro or similar attachment.
- The right gauntlet should contain the following components as shown in visual references: Two toggle switches on upper inside section, four forward facing darts in front of middle section, two small slightly protruding darts in front of lower section over wrist opening, larger grapling dart with two “blades” protruding from side housing, which also has two hose connecters at rear of housing. Upper section also should have one tapering section for a third hose connector as shown in visual reference.
- There should be four square pattern indentations on lower gauntlet section as shown in visual reference.
- All three hoses must be tucked under short sleeve and attached underneath securely.
- The left gauntlet should contain the following components as shown in visual reference: Small projectile, which should have black and silver parallel bands in an alternating pattern. The rear cylinder should be black in color and the front tapered section should be gold with a black point as shown in the visual references. The tip of the black point should be gold in color as shown.
- There should be a small silver switch on the inside of the section holding the projectile and the end should be black in color.
- There should be a working red LED light behind this switch.
- There should be two black buttons sitting on top of the flamethrower assembly on the outside of the gauntlet, which also houses two ports that protrude from the front, one over the other.
- On the rear of this box assembly directly behind each port are two hose connectors. Both hoses must be tucked underneath the short sleeve securely.
- There should be three square pattern indentations on the lower gauntlet section as show in visual references.
- All five hoses should be blue in color and weathered to match visual references as closely as possible.
Jetpack
- There are two different Jetpacks to choose from: Primary and Secondary. The Secondary was used after Jango lost his primary in a fight agains Obi-Wan Kenobi. The Secondary, more commonly known as the Arena Jetpack, was used on Geonosis.
- The colors for the primary jetpack are: blue, silver, white, black, yellow-orange, and red.
- The colors for the secondary jetpack are: silver, dark blue and light blue.
- The primary jetpack should have following main components: The main body which includes one center tank and two fuel tanks, one center fine-bore missile, two side thrusters / nozzles, one beacon light and one stabilizer.
- The secondary jetpack should have similar components minus the beacon light and stabilizer. Instead of the silver fine-bore missile of the primary jetpack, the secondary jetpack should have a smaller cone shaped warhead missile. The thrusters are located under the fuel tanks unlike the side mounted thrusters of the primary jetpack.
- -All patterns and colors should match as closely as possible to the Visual Dictionary and other visual references.
- The jetpack should attach snugly against the backplate to a harness via two shoulder slots located on the upper section of the backplate. A simple backpack harness can be made with backpack strapping and backpack clips to fit under the vest.
Gloves
- The gloves should be navy-blue in color and of a thin, soft leather or similar material and worn tucked underneath the gauntlets.
Blasters
- The WESTAR-34 blasters have a complex design for a do-it-yourselfer, but can be purchased from dealers such as Master Replicas, if available or online as Rubies toys and painted to match the ones on film. There are resin props available but hard to find.