Mando Mercs Costume Club
Mandalorian Armor => Helmets => Topic started by: Mercy on Jul 24, 2015, 01:09 AM
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Hey all.
Well, I'm ready to dive in headlong...
This is by far the most complex part of my build, so I'm sure the going will be slow. I appreciate all of your feedback and suggestions along the way.
I have an old HBF that I butchered a few years ago, so that will be the dome for this build. The interior was fiberglassed for rigidity, and the face and ears had been completely removed, so first steps are to build a custom face.
I curved a piece of sintra around the entire front and drew the shapes for the tee and cheeks. Obviously, there is no template available for this shape, so the cheek pieces were created from scratch...rough cut with thick paper, trim, fit, re-shape, step back and look, scratch head, throw out and start over, rough cut, trim.....repeat as necessary. You wouldn't think that cheeks could be so tricky to get just right.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/stfhbxf.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/stfhbxf.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/xfdhxdfh.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/xfdhxdfh.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/xxdfh.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/xxdfh.jpg.html)
You might have noticed from the other threads, but I love a thick, dimensional look to everything. So another full piece of sintra was laminated on to the first layer.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/xfddfh.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/xfddfh.jpg.html)
Once the adhesives cure, the final shape of the tee gets trimmed out, exposing the cheeks underneath. Then apoxie sculpt to fill and smooth.
Once I can confirm that polyester resin will not melt sintra, I'll lay a quick layer on the inside to stiffen up the whole thing. I hate warped helmets, so I'm going a bit overboard to make sure that doesn't happen.
I also planned ahead for the visor, making sure that there would be a 1/2" flat flange all around the tee cutout to make sure it will mount flat and even.
Face should be done by tomorrow night (hopefully), then on to the montrals/lekku. Here's a hint of the next steps coming up...
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/TortHelmBrow2.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/TortHelmBrow2.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/sbgsfdbgdf.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/sbgsfdbgdf.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/tfbnxfnbfg.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/tfbnxfnbfg.jpg.html)
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As always- lovely job. It seems like the visor-T will be fairly narrow compared to the usual buckets.
I'll be watching this one with interest. I find your lamination techniques to be very inspiring :)
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Very nice! I like the lekku/montrals detail and you're off to s fantastic start!
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I think your ideas are genius. I'm actually thinking of just buying a large boba fett helmet and bondo-ing the crap out of it.
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Holy crap dude. This looks awesome so far, keep it up and you'll be a real Togruta in no time.
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OK, lots of work done today on the kit, but mostly little detail work underneath the hood, so not very exciting.
But, here's a little of what's going on...
Exposed the cheeks today. The photos don't show the cool little difference between now and yesterday...but you can trust me :)
Only stinker is that I'm super anal-retentive about things, and I noticed that there is a height difference between the left and right cheeks of about 3/32" which throws the curves off a touch. Gotta build one side up just a hair to make them match.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/rdzfgdfgb.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/rdzfgdfgb.jpg.html)
The horns began as a substructure of foam-core. This way I could make the left and right sides identical. (yes I'm picky about symmetry lol!)
I then wrapped then in paper strips and stuffed them with poly fill to force them into a round shape.
Tomorrow they will get a coat of fiberglass to make them rigid. I hate using bondo, but I'm pretty sure there will be no way to avoid it.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/IMG_1172.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/IMG_1172.jpg.html)
Once the horns are finished and attached, that paper triangle in the middle will become a sintra layer used as a base for an akul-tooth "trophy".
I Keep thinking about animal trophies fitting with Togruta culture, but they clash with my backstory/personality, so these ideas may change.
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Loving the idea and its looking great so far. Although filling the horn section with polyfilla is going to make them extremely heavy depending on the weight of the rest of the helmet might make it slide off to one side.
Have you thought about using expanding foam instead? Can spray it in the gaps and cut away at the excess, it's also much lighter than filler.
Edit: just re read and saw that you have already done that section, how did it turn out?
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instead of bondo try Apoxie Sculpt. It's a 2 part putty that is oderless and fumeless so it can be used inside safely. it's also very easy to smooth (just a bit of water) and has a 2-3 hour working time once mixed together.
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Loving the idea and its looking great so far. Although filling the horn section with polyfilla is going to make them extremely heavy depending on the weight of the rest of the helmet might make it slide off to one side.
I think we're talking about two different things. This polyfill is an ultra-fine nylon "fluff" that weighs about 2 pounds to fill a garbage bag. :)
I just started working with apoxie sculpt (it's the gray stuff in the seams of the cheek parts). I have yet to try it on anything bigger...I'll give it a shot.
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Vod, I've said it before and I'll say it again. You are absolutely, totally, completely, bat-osik insane! And I cannot WAIT to see this bucket finished! :laugh:
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Vod, I've said it before and I'll say it again. You are absolutely, totally, completely, bat-osik insane! And I cannot WAIT to see this bucket finished! :laugh:
Lol! I'll take that as a compliment :)
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I think we're talking about two different things. This polyfill is an ultra-fine nylon "fluff" that weighs about 2 pounds to fill a garbage bag. :)
I just started working with apoxie sculpt (it's the gray stuff in the seams of the cheek parts). I have yet to try it on anything bigger...I'll give it a shot.
Could you post details on the "polyfill" you mentioned. Like to look into it. Thanks
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WalMart craft section...near the pillow foam.
Poly-Fill polyester fiber fill (for stuffing pillows, teddy bears, etc.)
It looks like a plastic bag filled with a huge cotton ball.
(https://www.onlinefabricstore.net/images/products/PF2012_1.jpg)
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Oh... thanks
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Let me say this....
I LOVE APOXIE SCULPT!!
It's a pleasure to work with.
Horns formed and now being molded to the helmet. I had to epoxy a bolt into each horn and holes in the helmet to secure them in place while I did the work, But overall I'm very pleased with how it's going.
Next step is to finish shaping the horns, getting them perfectly symmetrical, and applying a smooth finish.
I haven't decided whether to make them real horns poking through the helmet, or the helmet formed over the horns. I suppose I won't know until I see how it evolves.
What do you think?
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/srtjsjstrj.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/srtjsjstrj.jpg.html)
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I don't know if I mentioned this to you.
The Smooth-on brand of epoxy putty (called, Free Form) is stocked at:
Reynolds Advanced Materials
1727 E Weber Dr, Tempe, AZ 85281
(480) 967-7727
If you have not been there; It's worth checking out.
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I don't know if I mentioned this to you.
The Smooth-on brand of epoxy putty (called, Free Form) is stocked at:
Reynolds Advanced Materials
1727 E Weber Dr, Tempe, AZ 85281
(480) 967-7727
If you have not been there; It's worth checking out.
Sweet. Tempe is on the far side of the valley from me, but I make it out that way from time to time. I'll check it out.
Thanks :)
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Let me say this....
I LOVE APOXIE SCULPT!!
It's a pleasure to work with.
Horns formed and now being molded to the helmet. I had to epoxy a bolt into each horn and holes in the helmet to secure them in place while I did the work, But overall I'm very pleased with how it's going.
Next step is to finish shaping the horns, getting them perfectly symmetrical, and applying a smooth finish.
I haven't decided whether to make them real horns poking through the helmet, or the helmet formed over the horns. I suppose I won't know until I see how it evolves.
What do you think?
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/srtjsjstrj.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/srtjsjstrj.jpg.html)
This is turning out so awesome! You rock!
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So, before I can finish the horns, I need to decide how they will be mounted.
If they are actually part of the helmet, I need to leave the flairs at the bottom so they will blend into the rest of the helmet.
If they are horns poking through holes, then I need to trim the flairs back and devise a transition between helmet and horn.
I like both approaches about equally, so I'm putting this out to the community.
Which way would you prefer?
Thanks in advance... :)
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part of the helmet, as if they were an added part of the helmet to protect the horns
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Either way, you might have to bulk up the dome a little.
That said, I'll second Havelock, this is bat-osik insane! I LOVE IT! :o 8)
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Excuse my ignorance....but are the horns/lekku of a togruta hard or soft? If they are hard, then would it be possible to even fit them through the helmet to get them into the horn holders? Though, correct me if I'm wrong, aren't there also side and back lekku/horns as well?
At the moment, the horns look substantially wider than the helmet itself. Likewise, if they're hard, wouldn't they be somewhat protective themselves? If they're soft- I would have the horns you have on there be part of the helmet and therefor made of beskar. Actually, part of the reason Beskar is so awesome is because it can deflect or protector from lightsabres right? If they are horns, I would bulk out the sides of the helmet so they could potentially fit in there, and/or make removable looking panels on each side that would clip in after the helmet is on.
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I believe the horns/lekku are prehensile, which means they can be controlled by the togruta. I know for a fact that Twi'lek lekku are prehensile. so that would mean they are soft, but have a muscular structure.
That said, I would make the horns part of the helmet.
Can not WAIT to see this one finished up...especially with that gorgeous armor you're making ;)
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I'm not sure the horns (montrals) are prehensile but I believe the lekku are to a small degree. The montrals are essentially their ears and are fleshy, they are hollow to act similar to our eardrums. I would definitely go with them as part of the bucket. There are the three lekku that you'll need to mod the bucket to allow dangling out but one step at a time. So far it's a great job Mercy.
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Excuse my ignorance....but are the horns/lekku of a togruta hard or soft? If they are hard, then would it be possible to even fit them through the helmet to get them into the horn holders?
Shhhhh...
The horns are at least semi-solid, so technically would require a mask or a two piece helmet. This is Star Wars.... we ignore inconvenient details here... :)
Lekku are fully prehensile, just like Twi'leks, and the tail is soft too, but just kinda hangs there.
As a practical build consideration, I need to work on one element at a time: horns first, then the tail, finally the lekku.
I based the proportions from the Shaak-Ti figurine, so when finished, this helmet will be massive! Tall, wide, and deep. That's one reason I had to bulk out the shoulders of the armor so much, so I wouldn't be a bobblehead. Right now the horns put me at about 6'9"
The armor over the lekku and tail will be segmented. Hopefully this will give the illusion of being removable.
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Part of the bucket. That's my vote. :)
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I agree, definitely part of the helmet (now I know the details!). I think the side and back montrals should be covered as well at the top, and then the rest of the Montral should have segmented armor. Doesn't make sense for the top pieces to be bare and the rest covered.
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Well, the tail and lekku will definitely be armored down to the neck, but for practical reasons (that is, being able to turn my head) the parts below the neck have to be bare with maybe some small decorative plates.
I'm going to start mocking up the rest of the helm in cardstock tonight. If it comes out good I'll probably resin it over. Sintra doesn't seem to like compound curves.
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No, compound curves are very difficult in Sintra
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Commenting so I get updates :D
Gotta say, this is one of the most complex helmets I've seen anyone attempt here, but I'm rooting for you :)
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OK, I have a rough paper mockup done, but realized I'm out of sintra, so about a week til I can do any more building.
Also have a concern that I need to deal with...this thing weighs a ton! It's already about 6 1/2 pounds. comparable to a tournament grade steel bucket helm. I really don't want to add any more heavy bondo/epoxy/whatever, so I had to rethink a few things.
I also wanted to give more of a sense that it wasn't just a funky helmet...there is an alien in there. So this design should give the viewer a peek at whats underneath.
The plan is to first attach the naked lekku to the sides, from where the connect with the horns on down, then armor over it.
The gaps below the horns are a peekaboo hole to see the flesh underneath. These armored sides would be two segments (see the curved line near the bottom) and will give the detachable look. The lekku below the shoulders would hang bare with maybe some small decorative plates and maybe a dangly bit on the tip.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/dzfgvfbzfd.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/dzfgvfbzfd.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/zdfgzdfg.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/zdfgzdfg.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/zdfzfg.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/zdfzfg.jpg.html)
The backside for the tail gets a treatment too, but I'm not 100% happy with how this is right now. The idea will stay, but I'll probably re-work the specifics.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/zdfgfg.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/zdfgfg.jpg.html)
I hope the pictures put across the idea I'm working towards. Not sure if they do, but the mockup has most of it cemented in my brain now.
Just waiting on materials.
Thanks for your input :)
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If it gets any heavier I would try doing resin casting of it. It will make it much more spacious and lightweight since the montrals will be hollow as well as the space for the lekku. Then just reinforce the hollow sections to add strength. Talk to a helmet expert about that since I am just spitballing here.
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Well, I'm no expert but my enthusiasm is directed more towards helmet building than anything else, and I do agree with Natan on casting the Montrals to make hollow forms so that they are lighter weight.
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I'd love to cast the thing, but I haven't a clue how to do it :)
The montrals are only maybe a pound a piece...they're hollow, filled with poly batting, and then covered in apoxie sculpt.
I think a lot of the weight is the bucket itself. It was a butchered HBF, and I fiberglassed the heck out of it... overkill on the resin.
Do any of you know what's involved in a full helmet casting? Is it something that a muppet can do on the first try? Materials? Tools?
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I'd love to cast the thing, but I haven't a clue how to do it :)
The montrals are only maybe a pound a piece...they're hollow, filled with poly batting, and then covered in apoxie sculpt.
I think a lot of the weight is the bucket itself. It was a butchered HBF, and I fiberglassed the heck out of it... overkill on the resin.
Do any of you know what's involved in a full helmet casting? Is it something that a muppet can do on the first try? Materials? Tools?
Casting is not an easy process for the beginner but it's doable; however, it's not a cheep process. The silicone alone costs roughly $200 and then there's the cost of resin to cast it, and the little stuff like non sulphur clay so the mould can set properly. And whatever is used for the mother mould(the hard shell that keeps things from warping) my personal opinion would be a two part mould that leaves a seam line. And to rotocast the thing. There are companies that can do it for you but they charge you to do it. I've done one helmet, I'll be redoing that helmet mould a second time because of my lack of patience the first time!
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Meh...
My learning style involves screwing up and starting over a few times...this would be an expensive lesson...
I'll just have to exercise the old neck muscles :)
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Meh...
My learning style involves screwing up and starting over a few times...this would be an expensive lesson...
I'll just have to exercise the old neck muscles :)
If you don't mind Vod I'd enjoy mimicking your helmet here in the near future on a J2P build I'm doing(1 of 5 anyways) ;D
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You can do a cheap and dirty one time mold with silicone caulking and or plaster. It isn't pretty but it'll make a single pull maybe two. Cast in fiberglass for price and weight. Just an idea. Good luck and nice bucket.
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You can do a cheap and dirty one time mold with silicone caulking and or plaster. It isn't pretty but it'll make a single pull maybe two. Cast in fiberglass for price and weight. Just an idea. Good luck and nice bucket.
I've tried the silicon caulk method, my results were not pleasing to say the least. Moral of the story is use mold release before applying silicon caulking, don't use dollar store clay as it has sulfers in it, and make it a two part separating mould because the caulking mold is not stretchy at all. It'll still run you around $25-$50 for materials and the plaster can be put over the top to act as a mother mould and works just fine!
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i think your design is genius vod! I can't wait to see what else you do....I'm afraid I don't know the proper names for the..."tenticles"? but are they going to be soft or more solid? I was thinking you could put your poly batting inside a nylon stocking to help with texture.
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i think your design is genius vod! I can't wait to see what else you do....I'm afraid I don't know the proper names for the..."tenticles"? but are they going to be soft or more solid? I was thinking you could put your poly batting inside a nylon stocking to help with texture.
Yes the lekku (tentacles) and tail will be flexible. I used poly fill to shape the horns before I epoxied them, and it worked well.
Right now my stand-in lekku are sheet foam rolled in a pair of cloth tights/leggings/whatever women call them, but they don't have the natural movement I'm looking for, so stuffing them with poly fill is the next approach I plan to try.
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Try the stockings. I've seen them used before and they really give that "natural" feel. Buy some like Leggs to test out on lol
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Looking great :) I'm very much liking how your idea is coming together :)
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This is coming along real nice. I love obviously non-human mando builds.
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This is a really intriguing build, must say it looks awesome so far! Really curious to see how it pans out via alien. Really cool that its Asoka based. Having just read some of the darth vader comics and seeing another spin on Mandalorian - this character you are creating seems spot on with how TFA seems to be heading as far as coolness and originality. Kudos.
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Phew, this has been a long day of mando-making!
Sintra came in today, so was working on the helmet.
I wanted to take on a very ambitious design for my first build, and now I'm paying for it in time and trial and error :)
Building this helmet is tricky enough, but to get the symmetry and shape just perfect to satisfy my OCD has been a HUUUUGE challenge.
Armor for the head tail should be easier...there's no left/right to deal with. Then comes the sanding, mounting of new parts, and figuring a way to blend the lekku into the (bottom of) the horns.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/helm%20sides.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/helm%20sides.jpg.html)
The last big detail to begin thinking about is how to incorporate Akul-tooth jewelry. Normally for Togruta it is a headdress, but I'm not sure that's the way to go on this build. Or maybe it is...
I'm putting this out to the community...let's hear your ideas!
Thanks :)
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I seriously can't wait to see this bucket done! as far as the jewelry goes, you could easily just hang it on your bucket, I've seen a couple folks hang padawan braids & other trophies from their ear caps & you could do the same thing.
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It's looking really good so far! I can't wait to see the Lekku and after it's painted. Are you going to give the helmet the red skin accented with the white markings? Also, the only place I can think of to put the Akul-tooth jewelry would be across the brow, maybe? Or around the cheek bones to make it look like actual teeth? Can't wait to see more progress!
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The helmet and lekku will get the same paint scheme you see in my avatar.
I'm doing the red base, though not bright red like you normally see, and the markings will be Ahsoka Tano orange.
Ed: btw, I decided that the only way to do the markings on the helmet and lekku the way I imagine it would be to use an airbrush. I've never used one, but I ordered it up on Amazon last night. Looks like I'll be learning myself a new skill :)
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Ah, nice color choice! I was contemplating going a dark brownish read, like Season 2 Sabine, but chose Brown and Green for the more earthy palette! Can't wait to see it all colored up. And yeah, only idea I have for the jewelery is across the brown pointing up, or on the mandibles/cheeks, looking like real teeth.
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Ladies and gents....AKUL TEETH!!
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/teeth.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/teeth.jpg.html)
I have no idea what I'm going to do with them, but I have some now :)
Just needs roughened up and some paint.
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You know, I love that your build seems so complicated. I'm doing a lot of extra stuff to mine that seems a little silly or overdone. But then I look at yours vod and I feel better. Its good to see someone so into details. :D
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Ladies and gents....AKUL TEETH!!
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/teeth.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/teeth.jpg.html)
I have no idea what I'm going to do with them, but I have some now :)
Just needs roughened up and some paint.
Love these! 6MM sintra right?
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Love these! 6MM sintra right?
Apoxie Sculpt.
Was thinking these might go on a leather strip as a trophy, and I wanted them to have some weight so they would hang and swing naturally, and make a nice sound when they clatter together..
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Apoxie Sculpt.
Was thinking these might go on a leather strip as a trophy, and I wanted them to have some weight so they would hang and swing naturally, and make a nice sound when they clatter together..
Hmmmmmm....i woulf be worried about the apoxie sculpt crumbling or breaking. But its worth a try
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Once you pour some resin on it it'll probably be more stable. Like some DiamondGlue or something.
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Eh, I'm not too worried. I dropped one of my horns on the driveway pad outside and hardly a mark.
Even if one does chip...a broken tooth looks even cooler than a perfect one... :)
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Right on :D
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Love the teeth! I was using some apoxie sculpt on some of my pieces the other day. Once it sets, that some tough stuff!!
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So flippin' cool, vod!
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Here's the helmet I'm using for a test-painting.The metal base looks white in the picture, but it's an aluminum/silver.
The masking fluids come off tomorrow, and after the paint cures it will get its "horn stripes" and weathering.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/Test%20helmet.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/Test%20helmet.jpg.html)
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Looking good vod. Been anxiously waiting to see the horns on this bad boy. ;D ;D
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I've kept this on the shelf for a while now while working on the upper harness, but I finally have an update.
The build itself is done. All of the parts are made and fastened. Waiting now on the apoxie to cure, and then she gets an all-over blending.
I formed some "pockets" under the horns. The lekku will tuck up inside, looking like they are covered by the armored horns and flowing out from underneath. You can see through the peekaboo-openings. Then down through the armored bits on the side and out the bottom of the helmet.
Armored channel for the rear tail is there, but obviously doesn't show in this pic.
The T-slots will be cut out before I start painting. The helm is plenty stable (overkill) but I'm waiting just out of force of habit.
And I finally decided how to do the akul tooth jewelry. Liking how it's looking so far.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/ACA92F89-1783-480C-BB0F-06E60FC5E313.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/ACA92F89-1783-480C-BB0F-06E60FC5E313.jpg.html)
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This is looking so sick vod!! I can't wait to see the finished product!
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Looks great, what is it weighing in at?
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It's six pounds, about the weight of a full tournament bucket helm, and the lekku will add maybe 8 ounces or so.
The only trouble is that some of that weight sits high on the head, so inertia plays a big part when you move quickly.
Padding and harness may be tricky.
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It's six pounds, about the weight of a full tournament bucket helm, and the lekku will add maybe 8 ounces or so.
The only trouble is that some of that weight sits high on the head, so inertia plays a big part when you move quickly.
Padding and harness may be tricky.
I dont have the horns that you do of course but when I widened the gap in the two pieces is made it super wobbly so I have to put a block of padding in the forehead reason so it wouldn't wobble around and bash me in the sniffer.
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When I made the shell of this helmet a few years back, it was one of my first attempts at fiberglassing, and I unknowingly made it way thicker than it needed to be. So it is very sturdy, and I have cut some of the material away underneath the lekku and tail armoring, but I won't do much more for fear of making a weak spot that will spawn structural cracks.
The extra weight down there actually offsets the weight of the horns. Cutting more away would move the center of mass even higher up...make the problem worse I think.
I'm taking this build very slowly, one step forward and two doublechecks to make sure it was a good step.
The harness and padding will be the very last thing that I do, and I'm just hoping that I can make it work without a lot of tight padding that will make it uncomfortable to wear.
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This os looking great Vod. Can't wait to see this finished.
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Niiiiice! I like your Akuul-Mohawk ;D
It's good that you have a spare 'human' bucket, for days when you just don't feel like a Togruta :P
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This is amazing. 8)
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This is so freaking amazing! Will the lekku & horn covers eventually be connected?
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Blending has begun. Will probably need another round once this one is sanded down.
Also began cutting out the T-slot.
I did a test-fit and realized that my nose touches the visor :( I'm sure that will be annoying to wear like that.
It's a 1:1 size, but my fat head wants more room. There is a dome-ridge on the inside about 3/8" thick. Methinks I'm going to have to grind it smooth on the inside and reclaim that bit of space. Hopefully I can fix the fit without making the back side too thin to be stable.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/208A18CE-2344-4DD8-9CAE-1E37728C9065.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/208A18CE-2344-4DD8-9CAE-1E37728C9065.jpg.html)
This is so freaking amazing! Will the lekku & horn covers eventually be connected?
Nope. I want that section exposed so the lekku can be seen underneath.
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Looks great! I've had the same issue with my helmet, I found that putting a dense foam pad right above the visor (on your forehead essentially) pushes the front of the helmet JUST far enough away from your nose to give you enough room that it's not annoying. It's going to be a tight fit though.
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Vod, this is looking amazing! I can't wait to see the finished product :)
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Won't be long now before she gets her paint.
This round of blending only required a few spots of touch-up (compared to the first round anyways) so once this is sanded down and the final trim on the tee she'll be ready for primer. I'm guessing by mid-week.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/E309477E-3425-48CE-AFC3-572E757BBFE2.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/E309477E-3425-48CE-AFC3-572E757BBFE2.jpg.html)
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Yay for progress. This is looking really good. Can't wait to see the painting process of it.
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Looking great!
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Very nice vod! Keep at it!
Oya!
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As with everything on your kit, this is a work of art vod... Seriously, this is amazing!!!
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Sorry, coolest mando bucket existing atm hands down. I'M IN LOVE! I didn't even know you started the build, and I'm glad you're this far! Selfish me hates waiting :P
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Great job! 8)
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Wow, you guys are too kind.
Keep it up and my head will be so swollen it won't fit the helmet anymore... :)
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Seriously looking forwards to this one. Great work so far. It's gonna be legit.
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You're doing something new and amazing here Vod!
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Well, I thought I was ready for paint, but the first coat of primer showed me that more blending and sanding was required.
Especially the vinyl dome...the only part I didn't fabricate by myself...go figure...
...and yes, I am a little OCD...
...and then I ran out of primer...DOH!!
Anyways, its beginning to look like something, so here are a few pictures.
Its getting there...I'm finally beginning to see some potential coolness.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/A4F68A0A-D018-4CDA-A90A-14D0B815055D.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/A4F68A0A-D018-4CDA-A90A-14D0B815055D.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/8A64ADE2-FD77-4C53-9E15-EA8E43AC44C7.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/8A64ADE2-FD77-4C53-9E15-EA8E43AC44C7.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/EA3BC4B9-3144-4502-8192-0606BBA8FCD5.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/EA3BC4B9-3144-4502-8192-0606BBA8FCD5.jpg.html)
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Stang...that thing is straight up GORGEOUS!
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Just a BIT? Vod this is fantastic work!
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You're making me jealous of your resourcefulness Ner Vod! You're nearly there!
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So the aluminum coat is making every flaw stand out...Methinks Ima gonna call it good enough LOL!
I'm just going to batter it, dirty it, and smash it around a bit later on anyways. Its not like I'm trying to paint a sportscar... :)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/3D8D993E-E573-4CB4-AE9E-F353B297A3B2.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/3D8D993E-E573-4CB4-AE9E-F353B297A3B2.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/D93FCC51-C6D9-4003-82AC-30F0342A43B8.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/D93FCC51-C6D9-4003-82AC-30F0342A43B8.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/89E0101B-964E-46E9-B6E5-3592F406BB99.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/89E0101B-964E-46E9-B6E5-3592F406BB99.jpg.html)
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Looking awesome! Great work.
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I think I just fell out of my chair! Awesome bucket vod!!
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I feel your pain vod! I put the silver to my parts today and was cringing the whole way at every imperfection. But I tell you what! Your bucket is frickin awesome!!
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This does NOT in any way look like a scratchbuild. This looks like a professional cast. You should really be thinking about doing a business with your talent! :D :D
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This does NOT in any way look like a scratchbuild. This looks like a professional cast. You should really be thinking about doing a business with your talent! :D :D
LOL! NO! I'd starve to death... :)
I've got almost 100 hours into this helmet, and maybe 100 bucks in materials.
If I could sell them steadily for $3K apiece I could quit my day job, but I don't see that happening.
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Oh man and looking at it, seems like it would be a -censored- to mold :P
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This is an amazing build! The tegruta are always an ambitious build, but to add it to a buy'ce is even more impressive!
Congrads on the look so far, it's wicked!
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I looked into the molding process, and for sure it would be tough. Way too complicated a design.
And it would also need to be done in several parts, meaning I'd have to cut the thing apart. Not gonna happen.
I'm thinking about picking up one of those new Boba toy helmets (Target, I think) and doing a custom build from that base, and using that as an excuse to teach myself the casting process.
Anyone know how those size up? Are they 1:1 or close to?
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Last I heard they were just a hair larger than 1:1.
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They're big but roomy. Can fit a decent set of fans in there to circulate air. And other tech. I have two of them right now because I found a broken one and they gave me a discount!
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If I can find them, I might just invest in a couple. Gives me a project to work on for the winter.
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Well, Im grabbing a few now. Ive heard that they are seasonal, so i figure after halloween they'll be hard to come by.
Ed:
Grrrr... website says they are available at x stores. Stores say they have them. Actually they don't because their inventory system only updates every 24 hours (!?!?!?!?)
Today's results...100 mile round trip and no Boba helmets %*!!?*% >:(
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Well, I thought I was ready for paint, but the first coat of primer showed me that more blending and sanding was required.
Especially the vinyl dome...the only part I didn't fabricate by myself...go figure...
...and yes, I am a little OCD...
...and then I ran out of primer...DOH!!
Anyways, its beginning to look like something, so here are a few pictures.
Its getting there...I'm finally beginning to see some potential coolness.
Dude! :D
(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/0e/6c/12/0e6c12e42465076d0afce605098fc4aa.jpg)
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This looks absolutely amazing!
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Been really busy working on the renovations, so not a lot of progress. But, at least I know the paint is fully cured :)
First gray primer, lightly sanded with 140gr, followed by aluminum base, lightly sanded with 140gr.
Then...the scary part...the first layer of "damage" cuts. Taking a knife to this after all the work...if I weren't such a macho Mando I probably would have cried...
Heavy silver base coat has cured, and more to come this weekend...
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/A3E33DDD-F71C-4D3A-8AD0-88B291617058.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/A3E33DDD-F71C-4D3A-8AD0-88B291617058.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/E0CAD90F-8225-4B3B-9225-2FD4FF40564D.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/E0CAD90F-8225-4B3B-9225-2FD4FF40564D.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/50A323C3-BE2F-43DF-8244-EEF4FA8F8C64.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/50A323C3-BE2F-43DF-8244-EEF4FA8F8C64.jpg.html)
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Awesome!
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Been really busy working on the renovations, so not a lot of progress. But, at least I know the paint is fully cured :)
First gray primer, lightly sanded with 140gr, followed by aluminum base, lightly sanded with 140gr.
Then...the scary part...the first layer of "damage" cuts. Taking a knife to this after all the work...if I weren't such a macho Mando I probably would have cried...
Heavy silver base coat has cured, and more to come this weekend...
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/A3E33DDD-F71C-4D3A-8AD0-88B291617058.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/A3E33DDD-F71C-4D3A-8AD0-88B291617058.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/E0CAD90F-8225-4B3B-9225-2FD4FF40564D.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/E0CAD90F-8225-4B3B-9225-2FD4FF40564D.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/50A323C3-BE2F-43DF-8244-EEF4FA8F8C64.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/50A323C3-BE2F-43DF-8244-EEF4FA8F8C64.jpg.html)
Dewd! Bottom of my Mando heart that is a gorgeous helmet! Great job! I hope it's turning out like you imagined it would!
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:o :o :o :o :o ...I...I...have no words
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WOW... I mean... just... WOW :o absolutely stunning!
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So much shiny!
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More kind words...thanks for the encouragement :)
I've learned that if you sand the "bare metal" bits, it looks like scratched paint instead of metal. So, I masked them first before giving the helmet another light 140gr sanding. Then applied latex masking fluid to the deep "damage" spots and a few heavy wear points such as the tips of the horns.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/57DA62BF-673F-4520-B264-FEF0B671B81E.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/57DA62BF-673F-4520-B264-FEF0B671B81E.jpg.html)(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/E6D9A668-D25A-471F-953E-3BCBDBC3DB0F.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/E6D9A668-D25A-471F-953E-3BCBDBC3DB0F.jpg.html)
Some wear and damage needs thought...high spots, parts that might take a hit or two, etc. But most wear is random, and our brains don't do random very well. We try to make everything balanced and consistent, and that breaks the spell a bit.
Weathering and damage also looks best (I believe anyways...) when done in multiple layers. Every paint color layer gets some random chipping, scratching, and cuts.
The latex mask comes off once the paint is dry enough to handle, but before it is fully cured. It's easier that way, and the pull looks more random.
I scrape across the painted mask with the edge of an old credit card, pulling inward toward the middle of the "hole". I've found that the starting point is thinner and spreads wider as you peel, so doing it this way prevents "fat" strips. You get a natural looking star-like gouge, radiating out from the center.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/FC988C1C-32BE-46A2-8A51-DA80186EB84E.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/FC988C1C-32BE-46A2-8A51-DA80186EB84E.jpg.html)(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/1848050D-1763-4A09-9F0A-F98F96F35B37.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/1848050D-1763-4A09-9F0A-F98F96F35B37.jpg.html)(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/8014BD26-A3FB-4965-8216-52840E1ED827.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/8014BD26-A3FB-4965-8216-52840E1ED827.jpg.html)
With the black paint on, the back of the helmet that accommodates the rear tail looks very Darth Vader-y, yes?
The black should be fully cured by tomorrow morning, so around lunch time she'll get another round of masking and damage and the first of the red paint goes on.
Stay tuned :)
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Looking great vod! I found myself struggling with "damaging" my armor too. But I think it's okay to be strategic about it. It makes it seem more realistic if you can put them in places where wear or damage would really be positioned. But I think you're doing a phenomenal job!
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Outstanding Vod it's getting there!
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Ouah! Very awesome work!
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Hey mercy, are the lekku gonna come straight down from the curves you have? Cause based on the reference images it looks like it has to fill out that whole area you sectioned out.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/Menku/Raanatayfull.jpg (http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/Menku/Raanatayfull.jpg)
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Hey mercy, are the lekku gonna come straight down from the curves you have? Cause based on the reference images it looks like it has to fill out that whole area you sectioned out.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/Menku/Raanatayfull.jpg (http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/Menku/Raanatayfull.jpg)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/E0CAD90F-8225-4B3B-9225-2FD4FF40564D.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/E0CAD90F-8225-4B3B-9225-2FD4FF40564D.jpg.html)
Imagine the side plates are not there. The lekku will will come out from the bottom of the horns and run all the way to their ends. Then install the side plates to protect that part of them. The gaps between are peekaboo holes so you can see the lekku are there. Then the parts coming out of the bottom are completely exposed with maybe a couple of small plates strapped on.
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Whoa. That looks better than I could have hoped for. You have some real skills there ner vod. Are the lekku going to permanently part of the helmet?
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Almost there vod! Keep up the good work. You'll be OM In no time!
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Well, Kavryn reminded me of my priorities :) so here's what been happening since I posted last.
Remasked everything and shot the red coats.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/FEA36F1D-332E-4D79-BF24-BE9A91762203.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/FEA36F1D-332E-4D79-BF24-BE9A91762203.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/54F2C8E2-E4F1-41FE-A71F-354213C92E1A_1.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/54F2C8E2-E4F1-41FE-A71F-354213C92E1A_1.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/967F928E-FE3D-4791-9AC2-622E5F0D4013.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/967F928E-FE3D-4791-9AC2-622E5F0D4013.jpg.html)
Trouble is, if you lay down too many coats at once it cures unevenly and turns gummy. Made it hard to remove the mask cleanly. I got a bit discouraged and set it aside. Once it fully cured (over a week later) I picked it up again and unmasked it, but it didn't peel as I had intended. You can't tell by looking, but I could tell.
So, minding the lessons learned, tonight I did a quick sand and applied the orange coat. It went much better this time.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/9BD53A27-B5A7-4A1D-AEE5-8FD0B5A84E22.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/9BD53A27-B5A7-4A1D-AEE5-8FD0B5A84E22.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/0B637DAB-A412-4D7C-9756-C3586869D85D.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/0B637DAB-A412-4D7C-9756-C3586869D85D.jpg.html)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/BF47C2DF-EE67-40CC-9EBE-3E734FEE0E55.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/BF47C2DF-EE67-40CC-9EBE-3E734FEE0E55.jpg.html)
This weekend I'm gonna try the tricky step...the "tiger stripes" on the montrals.
I'll definitely try out the technique on some cardboard first, as I'm not sure how I'm gonna make this work.
I don't want sharp edges, rather I'm going for a more natural look to match the lekku that come later. Think of an airbrushed look.
I picked up a small airbrush for the lekku, but I've never used one before, so it will be completely new to me.
I thought up another technique that should give a similar look. I'll let you all know if it works or not... :)
Stay tuned...
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Yay! ;D
Looking snazzy as always.
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FANTASTICO!!
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Have you thought about using a stencil brush and going that route? Or you could take natural sponges and gently sponge the paint into the stencil. Just an idea.
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Sponging a stencil is always a great way to do it.
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This is simply stunning! My husband has wanted to design a twi'lek mando, this proves it can be done. Beautiful!!! Can't wait to see this kit!
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You should talk to Kris Jasra about that. Her second kit is a Twi'lek ;D
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I am making a Togruta Mando as well. You have given me some great ideas.
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Make a piece to practice on. Just practice the different techniques until you feel comfortable enough doing it on your helmet. You can have plenty of mistakes without messing up that awesome helmet!
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Omg thats beautiful Vod :D great job
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I keep thinking of how huge this helmet is, so I decided to lay it out with the dummy to get a sense of perspective.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j377/davidmills2/WIP/653E2272-FDD6-4850-A7FE-13BE2023EF7F.jpg) (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/davidmills2/media/WIP/653E2272-FDD6-4850-A7FE-13BE2023EF7F.jpg.html)
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I think it looks immaculate.
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You're gonna be the envy of everyone who sees you, vod. So cool.
So what's left, then? Bucket, buckle, thighs, & boots? How close are you to apping in? (I'd say "finishing," but, well, we both know there's no such thing :P )
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That seems very well scaled to me
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How are you making the lekku?
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Mercy...your kit gives me goosebumps every time I see it. Sweet baby Yoda, that thing is a work of art....
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You guys are great for my motivation. Thanks :)
How are you making the lekku?
Lekku and tail will probably be sheet foam under ladies leggings, then painted with latex paint to give a skinlike texture.
So what's left, then? Bucket, buckle, thighs, & boots? How close are you to apping in? (I'd say "finishing," but, well, we both know there's no such thing :P )
I was thinking about this yesterday. Technically the helmet/lekku, buckle and belt assembled, and I could apply. I think the armored kama needs done as well, since would look incomplete without it.
Thighs, boot armor, flank armor, a few guns, and a ton of little detail pieces could be done afterwards.
I haven't decided yet whether to apply early or wait till it's complete.
The helmet paint and the lekku are the big x-factor here. I may get lucky...everything works perfectly first try...and be ready in a few weeks. But since I am a complete newbie and making everything up as I go along, I'd expect it to be longer.
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The size looks right to me vod...excellent job!
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The helmet size looks perfect to me, dont forget the lekku shouldn't be considered as a helmet ;3
Bookmarking your thread now! :3
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As someone who's Mando is also a Togruta, you're giving me hope that it can be done!
Bookmarking.
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Anything you can imagine can be done.
It's all about bullheaded perseverance despite all of the screwing up... :)
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Here's an old trick I learned for doing feathered paint edges on model planes.
Lay your stencil down on your piece using a thin layer of poster putty so that it sits a millimeter or two above your piece. Spray your paint perpendicular to the stencil, avoid spraying at an angle. The paint will overspray slightly under the edge of the stencil making your paint edge soft and not so sharply demarcated from the base color.
It's a technique used to depict faded camoflauge and markings on model aircraft and ships. As always practice first on test pieces. You may find it tricky as the horns are curved as opposed to the fairly flat panels of an airplane model.
I wish you luck. This build is truly awe inspiring!
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Here's an old trick I learned for doing feathered paint edges on model planes.
Lay your stencil down on your piece using a thin layer of poster putty so that it sits a millimeter or two above your piece. Spray your paint perpendicular to the stencil, avoid spraying at an angle. The paint will overspray slightly under the edge of the stencil making your paint edge soft and not so sharply demarcated from the base color.
It's a technique used to depict faded camoflauge and markings on model aircraft and ships. As always practice first on test pieces. You may find it tricky as the horns are curved as opposed to the fairly flat panels of an airplane model.
I wish you luck. This build is truly awe inspiring!
That's actually the technique I was thinking about, but I never tried it just as you said: because of the curves.
Maybe I will give it a try. At least now I know it's a legit technique.
Thanks.
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The key is take your time. Don't try to do it in one pass. Especially if you're not familiar with the technique. But if you do even half as good with the horn stripes as you've done with the rest of the build then I have no doubt they'll turn out spectacular!