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[Hanjo Solba]

Thanks everyone 

I plan on doing a lot work on the gauntlets this extended weekend.  I will post some pictures as soon as i can!

[Hanjo Solba]

Another long overdue update!

I have been running in a constant loop on the right gauntlet.  Putty, prime, sand, repeat.  I finally think I got it where I like it.  Some of the 3D printing lines are still visible but it can be covered by making it look like damage.  I also think after a few layers of paint, it will be very hard to see them. 

The picture below is tough to make out which is not surprising since everything is just black.  I will be painting blue today though.  I have toothpaste under the black and will be applying more before the blue goes on.  Already have some buttons cut out to glue on once I am done painting the blue but before the clear coat.  I may add some mandalorian letters to the buttons but i want to see how they look plain first.  Either way, I will post updates as I build!



I also did some cutting on the ab plate to try to equalize the spacing as some people here suggested.  I think i may have to unbend the "fangs" of the two breast plates to make the spacing a little more uniform but i feel like this was a step in the right direction.  I am starting to notice this issue with the plate seller's design that i bought from.  I will need to do something about the chest diamond as well.  I will either cut this one down or purchase a new one from the sellers on here.  I haven't decided yet since i may purchase the whole thing new anyway (or try a scratch build for these plates if i cant get them to CRLs standards). 



Let me know what you guys think!

[Hanjo Solba]

Another quick update.  Got the blue on the right gauntlet and started removing the toothpaste.  Not the best weathering but I think it looks pretty good.  It falls in line with the lighter weathering of the rest of my kit.  Bucket might have a little more then everything else but lets just say everyone aims for my head  .  Still need to apply the black wash to to it but that's today's work.   







I was thinking about adding buttons like Boba has on the side of his gauntlet.  I used some putty to try to get a good idea of how it would look.  They are slightly raised in these photos due to the putty.  I am not sure if i want to add these.  I would paint these the same gray that my bucket has.  What do you guys think?  Maybe if i put them in the matching orientation that Boba has and straighten them up a bit?   






**Sorry for out of focus picture**

I purchased some lights and switches for these as well but after adding the darts and screen, I ran out of room inside the gauntlet to add these.  I am hoping to add some to the left gauntlet but its all about the space inside.  I am also worried about doing to much.....

What do you think?  Leave as is? add more?  (I am so indecisive with this kind of stuff.....) 

[Kol Varek]

I'm jealous of that EE-4! Drake makes some amazing stuff, if I didn't have blasters, I would've commissioned him!

[Syko Voss]

I'd say 'go for it' r.e. the buttons on the sides of the gauntlets.

The Swarzy look is about getting lots of little apparently functional details here and there - think of those guys back in the 70s rummaging through electrical switches, fuse boxes and parts to fill in blank spaces.  I'd do it, just make sure you secure them with a bit more than glue - it would be easy to catch them on something and knock them off if they don't have  a bit of physical connection to make sure they're locked in tight.
r.e. space for electronics - have you had a look at coin cell batteries and holders - really light and pretty darned slimline...here's what I did with my gaunts to wire up 3 separate LEDs...

[Hanjo Solba]

I really wish I could add some LEDs but I will probably have more room to do this on the rocket gauntlet.  I will have to limit myself to the LED screen when it comes to the right one.  Not a big deal since I made my darts so large anyway. 

I blacked washed everything and added the buttons last night.  I have some excess glue to deal with but I think I will use some black acrylic paint to make the glue look like grime.  I hope it works since I am not sure what else can be done to hide this. 

This picture below is before I added the buttons.  I will post a picture of the issue and how I fixed it tomorrow.  If I am able to fix it tonight, I should be ready for clear coating tomorrow and then I can focus on the left.  Wish me luck!

[Kar'ta Tionas]

Wow those gaunts have cleaned up nicely! What did you end up using for the screen? I have the same set and am trying to figure the screen out

[Hanjo Solba]

Wow those gaunts have cleaned up nicely! What did you end up using for the screen? I have the same set and am trying to figure the screen out

Thanks!  Took like 20 coats of primer to loose the 3D printing lines haha

I used the August 1.5" Mini photo keychain. (link Below)

https://www.amazon.com/August-DP150-Digital-Photo-Built/dp/B001PCS4PA?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top

It appears to not be available any longer but really any 1.5" screen will fit.  I would suggest getting a mp3 player with a 1.5" screen to play gifs, if you can find one that would fit.  The August one i bought will show gifs but it does not put them in motion.  It doesn't leave much room for anything else though.  Be aware too that these are pretty old when it comes to technology and are very weird to connect to new computers.  If you don't follow the steps perfect, it won't let you upload. 

Mounting this thing is a whole other problem.  I ended up using weight lifting padding i had laying around to wedge it in place.  I cant glue it in since i need to charge it and the port for charging is on the side.  I opened it up to see if i could turn the charging port but these things are made very cheap so i did not want to break it.  It keeps it very still so im not going to worry about it.  Maybe add some velcro here and there and call it done.

I still have the film over the glass, i will remove this once its finished.




Finished look but i haven't clear coated yet so i will loose some of the black once i do.  The mirror around the edge shows as well.  If there was a logo i would have to sand and paint but the mirror doesn't look bad so im leaving it as is.  It looks a little crooked bc of the angle i took the picture, it is straight.


I hope this information helps!

[Hanjo Solba]

I need to lean on some MMCC experience ...

I am running into some problem with mounting tubing to my right gauntlet.  Please see the picture below near the bottom for reference.  I have access to the back but i can not figure out a good way to mount it so it stays.  I noticed some people use some type of plunger but i have not be able to figure out one that would fit threw the current hole. 



I have purchased the tubing at the link below.  It is just a standard 1/4" ice machine supply line.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-x-1-4-in-x-120-in-Supply-Line-7258-120-14-2-EB/205854127

The ideal thing would be to get a threaded stud/bolt that i could use on the inside to thread the hose onto.  The problem is it does not appear to have a standard threading or at least i could not find a pipe fitting that would work at home depot. 

My second idea is to cut the fittings off the ends and use a plunger to hold on the inside.  Downside is that i may need to glue this in since 1/4" is not a common plunger for gas lines.  I found a small bike pump nozzle that may work but the threading is not long enough to make it inside the cavity on the gantlet.  (See link below)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Inflation-Kit-6-Piece-HDA71800AV/205190560 

Does anyone have April Storms gauntlets and run into this problem?  I have found a great way to mount the other side with a clip and key ring to attach to the flight suit thanks to the MMCC forums.  I am just stuck on this.... Home Depot does not have much of a selection when it comes to these either. 

I am trying to finish up so i can troop in August at Steel City Con.   Not much time left and i still have the left gauntlet and that's a completely different animal, if i want to run a hose.... (no access to the back of the fitting)

Help?

[Hanjo Solba]

Well i have an idea to remove the head from a bolt and use the double threaded stud to sandwich with two bolts.  Hopefully it works, i will post some pictures if it does. 

I wanted to post some pictures of what i have done so far.  I am trying to make sure the spacing is all even with my chest plates but it seems like any movement shifts them around.  As long as i am standing strait with my arms at my side the spacing looks good.  I am not sure how some members keep this spacing so even. 







This last picture is just to try to show the spacing.  I think if i cut my chest diamond a little smaller, i could bring the two chest plats in closer and help line up with the collar and give myself a little bit easier movement.

http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/saybull612/media/cGF0aDovSU1HXzMzNDUtMV9yZXNpemVkIDJfenBzczNvMnRkeHcuanBn/?ref=1

Sadly, i had all the intention to work during the 4th but ended up relaxing.  Will hit the ground running this week, the left gaulent will be finished!  I will post as i work!

[Hanjo Solba]

Time again for another update.  Honestly, the work has been slow, way to nice out lately to stay in and putty.  My left gauntlet still needs a lot more putty to cover all the 3D printing lines.  I will post when i finally get it smooth.

I have completed my cape after a small hick-up.  The problem i am having now is getting it to lay right.  I made mine match Boba's but then cut it shorter to match my height.  I made it out of a canvas cloth which should be approval able but the darn thing is so incredibly stiff.  I tried washing it and hitting it with the dryer but its still not loosening.  Its fraying out alot which is fine but its still very stiff.

http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/saybull612/media/cGF0aDovMjAxNjA3MjhfMDAzODMwX3Jlc2l6ZWRfenBzanQ2c2Nyam0uanBn/?ref=1

Anyone run into this problem?  Most ppl i see on here seem to just mount it and it looks fine.... Maybe i am just over worrying.  Either way, pointers and tips are very welcome!!!

[Kris Jasra]

Throw it in with the laundry a few more times and if you are not allergic, add a fabric softener to the wash. I've run some of my fabrics through quite a few times to take away the crisp new stiffness.

[Hanjo Solba]

Throw it in with the laundry a few more times and if you are not allergic, add a fabric softener to the wash. I've run some of my fabrics through quite a few times to take away the crisp new stiffness.

I didn't even think of that, im so dumb  softener is a great idea, i will try that tonight for sure

[Hanjo Solba]

The bad news-

Still having trouble softening the cape.  I am guessing the canvas material i used for it is a little to strong.  I think i am going the ball it up and run it over with my car.  I am starting to get pissed.

The good news-

I am an Auxiliary member now 

[Khor Mariik]

Helmet looks great! Armor plates look good as well. Nice weathering.

I used true Spec black BDUs as well. the pockets come off fairly easily with a stitch ripper, but if you're not careful, you can leave a hole at the corners where the stitching is really tight. As a thought for the thigh pockets, if you're going to store tools or the like there, think about just removing the pocket flap and buttons. then, sew up the pleats to make 3 individual pockets side by side by side, similar to the shin pockets on Boba. Definitely hem them. They'll bunch up in your boots and the bagginess with creep up your legs making everything look baggy. Think about adding stirrups to the bottoms to make sure they stay down and don't creep up. I'm tall and gangly. My BDUs had to be taken in too. I'm actually modding a new set right now for a replacement. Put them on inside out and have someone with a bit of sewing skills pin them a bit tighter up the outside of the legs and the inside of the arms. Be careful because pins are sharp! lol. Try flexing arms and legs to make sure they aren't too tight. If good, then run a strong seem along where you pinned to take them in. Flip right side out and you're done!

Velcro on the vest is good. Some try for rare earth magnets, but they don't hold firmly and the plates shift a lot. Maybe add some snaps one you have the placement sure. Velcro will hold very well, but you'll have to tinker with placement to get them back on right when you remove the plates to launder the vest. Snaps will make sure they go back on dead right every time.

Jan 15 post: placement looks pretty good. It's a tight looking kit. remember, about a thumb's width between plates and no more than 2 inches between ab plate and top of girth belt. Trimmed ab plate looks good and even and fits in between chest plates nicely.

Jango pistols are a good choice for blasters. Paint and weathering look great! Just watch too much weathering on your weapons. We're warriors and want to maintain our equipment so it doesn't give out on us in the middle of a fight. If your weapons look like you dropped them in the mud and never cleaned them off, they're likely to fail when you need them most. ;-)  Nerf rifle will need lots of mods to make it unrecognizable as a Nerf gun. EE-4 looks great!

Glove armor paint: if you haven't replaced them yet, you can probably get another pair and paint them the same, but make sure you use acrylic paint instead of standard rattle can spray paint. Regular spray paint will eat into and make mushy certain types of plastic/vinyls....which you found out.

If the girth doesn't work for you, try again with dye but mist it repeatedly with spray paint. Don't go for total coverage in 1 or 2 coats and adjust the threads to make sure you get a nice even coat and color.

Mar 1 post:

Cod piece can be held with a Boba Thong if the trimming doesn't keep it tight.

Atfter you're happy with the shaping, use snaps and velcro to add stability to knees (snaps at sides so you don't kneel on them).

Add a snap or small but of velcro inside the thigh for thigh strap to keep in in place and prevent it sliding down without having to cinch it super tight.

Lose the butt plate. It's not needed and seems to bug you.

Otherwise, it's looking great!!

Don't go for too complex for approval. Save the jet pack for an upgrade. You're really close so go for approval without many more add-ons. everyone makes upgrades as we see what others have done. Keep it simple for App pics and take your time with quality upgrades after.

You're doing it right in taking your time and listening to advice. Syko and some other have some great tips!

[Kar'ta Tionas]

Thanks!  Took like 20 coats of primer to loose the 3D printing lines haha

I used the August 1.5" Mini photo keychain. (link Below)

https://www.amazon.com/August-DP150-Digital-Photo-Built/dp/B001PCS4PA?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top

It appears to not be available any longer but really any 1.5" screen will fit.  I would suggest getting a mp3 player with a 1.5" screen to play gifs, if you can find one that would fit.  The August one i bought will show gifs but it does not put them in motion.  It doesn't leave much room for anything else though.  Be aware too that these are pretty old when it comes to technology and are very weird to connect to new computers.  If you don't follow the steps perfect, it won't let you upload. 

Mounting this thing is a whole other problem.  I ended up using weight lifting padding i had laying around to wedge it in place.  I cant glue it in since i need to charge it and the port for charging is on the side.  I opened it up to see if i could turn the charging port but these things are made very cheap so i did not want to break it.  It keeps it very still so im not going to worry about it.  Maybe add some velcro here and there and call it done.

I still have the film over the glass, i will remove this once its finished.




Finished look but i haven't clear coated yet so i will loose some of the black once i do.  The mirror around the edge shows as well.  If there was a logo i would have to sand and paint but the mirror doesn't look bad so im leaving it as is.  It looks a little crooked bc of the angle i took the picture, it is straight.


I hope this information helps!

Thank you for taking the time to write this up for me (and, sorry for the really late reply).  It really helped me with my gaunts.

[Hanjo Solba]

No problem at all!  I am just stumbling through all of this anyway.  Anything I can do to help somebody else makes it all worth it 

[The Bearded Mando]

With regards to softening the canvas on you cape. I used primed artist canvas that i got from work for my vest (very stiff)  washed it 3 times by itself with almost 1/2 cup softener in each run. That broke up the priming and loosened it up a bit. Maybe soaking it in the straight softener for a day or 2 will help more. Running it over with the car will definatly releave stress and help with the weathering tho. Kit is looking great so far. Have you thought of route a short charger cable through the gauntlet with an outlet on the face of the gaunt so you can just plug the gauntlet in to charge. Might need an extra female connector to make it work.

[Hanjo Solba]

With regards to softening the canvas on you cape. I used primed artist canvas that i got from work for my vest (very stiff)  washed it 3 times by itself with almost 1/2 cup softener in each run. That broke up the priming and loosened it up a bit. Maybe soaking it in the straight softener for a day or 2 will help more. Running it over with the car will definatly releave stress and help with the weathering tho. Kit is looking great so far. Have you thought of route a short charger cable through the gauntlet with an outlet on the face of the gaunt so you can just plug the gauntlet in to charge. Might need an extra female connector to make it work.

I will have to try something to soften the cape..... I will try a few more washes with softener.  The only problem is all the sewing is coming out after each wash.  I guess i will have to redo the sewing once its softened.  Always a learning process 

I was thinking of cutting a whole in the side of the gauntlet to run a cable through but since it is such a weird shape, i am not confident enough that i could make it look good. I did open the plastic housing up to see if i could bend or rewire the charging port but i would have to sodder on the board to do it and im not confident that i wouldn't destroy it in trying.  For a short cable to work it would need to be a "L" shape thats less then a 1/4" to fit in the area available and since its not a standard micro USB i am not to sure where to find one.

At this point the padding holds it tight and keeps the gauntlet from spinning on my arm so i am rolling with what i have.  I am very thankful for the ideas though!  I read everyone and try to apply it.  I just finished painting the flame thrower silver and once i get the left gauntlet smooth and silver i will post some pictures.  I am hoping to have a pre-app ready and posted before Halloween.  (i am figuring if i set a goal i will stop procrastinating)   

[Syko Voss]

Stopping gauntlets spinning is a bonus.  One thing I found from Celebration was that the weight of the gaunts over time, resting on the back of my wrists caused me to lose some feeling in the backs of my thumbs...not fun.  So anything you can do to support the weight and stop the gaunts spinning is a good thing.
Been experimenting with all kinds of padding myself.  Current iteration, which I'll try on Sunday at York is Velcro loop glued inside the gauntlet and sports sweatbands unpicked to a single thickness on my forearms - the sweatbands tame the flightsuit making it easier to put the gaunts on, provide an amount of padding and the Velcro seems to stop the gaunts from sliding down as it hooks into the sweat bands.
Still trying to come up with a 'perfect' solution on this one, since the gaunts aren't particularly heavy, they do look pretty baddass, but getting this final bit of fit is a little annoying...

[Hanjo Solba]

Well I am making slow progress but I figured I would throw up a picture and a small update anyway.



I have been working really hard to remove the 3D printed lines from this rocket.  Since the rocket will remain mostly metallic, any small detail will make it look bad.  The problem I ran into is that as I was when layering the primer on, the holes on the rocket head started to hold primmer and look bad.  This is why I am calling it as it is now.  Its not perfect but what mando is? 

The silver coat will go on tomorrow then tape for the other colors.  Right now I plan to just hit this with a little black wash and some small scrapes.When it comes to weathering, I would think if it was damaged I would just replace the rocket.  Makes sense right?  I will make the rest of the left gauntlet look beat up to match the right one. 

Let me know what you guys think!

[Khor Mariik]

Ugggg.

This is one of those times I wished you'd have asked before all the primer. lol.

Now, I think you may be stuck with filler/primer rattle can and spot/glazing putty and sanding to get rid of lines.

If you have any other 3D printed parts that you haven't painted yet, I saw a neat trick in a miniatures painting group of which I am a member.

Brush Acetone onto your piece. the acetone will dissolve it some and blend the lines better, so when you do start sanding, puttying, and priming, the lines are less noticeable from the start.

BE WARNED though. Too much and the acetone will dissolve the whole piece. so play it carefully and go in coats and layers and keep a close on on the progress so you don't melt what you wanted to keep.

This works better for broad, mostly smooth surface or those that you want to be smooth. It will also eat into and remove fine details, so don't use this on anything that has that level of detail that you plan on keeping.

I'll look for a link to the tutorial I saw.

Here is one for another method using an acetone vapor chamber.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qByAGrbmS8

[Kar'ta Tionas]

I have that same rocket and I managed to get the print lines out/keep the holes on the nose cone.  I'd suggest using a tiny, circular metal file to clean them up, or you can improvise with a toothpick wrapped in a bit of sandpaper.

[Hanjo Solba]

Just another quick update on my rocket.

There is no way i would trust myself with acetone haha. I tried to remove some glue i spilled on the side of the visor with some...... lets just say i ended up buying and cutting a new visor.  It did not end well. 

I am one step closer.  Puttying the left gauntlet again today.  Hopefully this will kill the rest of the lines or enough of them so i can hide the remaining with black wash.  Let me know what you guys think!

[Khor Mariik]

Yeah, visors are tough. Glue or acetone, or paint thinner, or any number of other things on the visor will pretty much kill it.

The interaction of the acetone with the 3D plastic is desirable tho, but I totally understand being hesitant and wanting to not even try it after killing a visor. lol.

Keep it in mind though for a possible future technique on another 3D print with broad, smooth sides.